WKelley

Modern car use a TON of electricity to run proper. Couple that to modern batteries are crap and you get issues.

FOr those of you like me that refuse to shop on Amazon and Walmart I suggest Carquest as you can get WIX filters there. If I run regular oil I do a short change interval of 3000KM. If I run semi-synthetic I go the full 5K KM. If I run full synthetic I change it between 5-10K KM when it looks dirty on the dipstick. Prices in Canada are crazy right now, 5L of regular oil will set you back $50 if not on sale. I just paid $65 for a store brand (Canadian Tire) full synthetic 5L jug, and that was the sale price. Average price for name brand was $79 for 5L.

IF you overheated I would start with a compression test as well as testing the coolant for exhaust gases. You could also start by getting someone to scan it and look at live data and see what temperatures the computer is seeing. Check wiring see if anything looks melted around the coolant temp sensor.

It is not uncommom for a bad blower motor to take out the resistor/wiring plugs but that does not mean it is a guarantee. My blower makes a bit of noise when it's cold out but so far it's been OK. I really need to change it to prevent wiring/resistor issues though.

Great news! Glad the original showed up and worked first time, it can be a nightmare when something goes into theft mode.

You need to figure out if it is in theft mode, which it likely is. You cannot just drop in a programmed cluster while it is theft mode, it will not fix it if that is the case. The theft system looks at the key, the cluster and the module itself to decide what to do. Once it is tripped, it is not a simple task to get it out as you need a higher level scan tool to get into the modules. Remotely programming modules is not an exact science, there are lots of problems that can happen. Try and find someone local.

88 octane is bad but you don't care about a useless k&n filter? Run what the manual says to run. Highest octane is not always the best choice. Skip the k&n, they are more trouble than they are worth. Factory filter/airbox is more than able to flow all the air your engine will ever need.

It's likely in theft mode along with whatever the original problems are. It's a 3000lb brick. You need to find someone that has dealer level scan tools to hopefully get it out of theft mode and then maybe you can flash the cluster to work. Messing with the cluster was a BAD idea, they have to be flashed to the car properly or theft mode just kills it dead.

It's used up. 200K miles on a hybrid is a gift, he should cherish the memories. It would be very cost restrictive to fix it.

Start with a compression test and if that does not show a smoking gun then a leakdown test would be next. To me there is no really good 1 answer solution to your issue. If it is indeed headgasket issues, those motors are notorious for cylinders warping making it nearly impossible to seal with a new gasket without major machine work. Take it one step at a time, a compression test should guide your path.

There is basically no support in the aftermarket for the Fusion, whatever few things you may find are more cosmetic than anything. Make sure your water pump has been replaced before you do anything, it is the death knell for that engine if the pump is allowed to leak at all as it goes internally into the crankcase.

The quality of quick struts has fallen off a cliff. I would buy all the individual parts and have them built using quality parts. SUre it will be far more expensive, but you will regret quick struts when they crap out after a year.

Either an EVAP valve or the cannister itself is no good. The cap is only responsible for sealing, not venting.

If the turbo comes apart while driving you'll sure wish you didn't drive it.

I cannot find anything on the code, you need to get someone with a higher level scan tool to get in there, probably something in the ABS module, but that is a pure guess.