WKelley

To me it would be worth bringing it somewhere independent to take a look at it. I still say it's likely a bad rim or possible bad alignment. You'd be amazed what can get by someone when they are not looking for it. I'm not sure how an axle could be bad, you'd have massive vibration issues or lots of clicking/clunking as well.

There's no rhyme or reason it seems. I did the fluid recall last year on my 2010 and afterwards got a letter in the mail saying the one time replacement for me was for the life of the car. I wish they made these things more common sense.

Check for HCU recalls, both cars are likely under that recall.

FWD or AWD? Transmissions almost never cause vibrations at speed. I would be looking for a bent rim first. I'd also get the tire balanced checked at another shop. IF the axle was bent you'd have undriveable vibrations. Bent rims can sneak by even the best tire guy from time to time.

Not much help, but I would try popping the end out of the transmission and get it all on a bench to see if you can fit it together. Aftermarket axle might be in order too.

Modern car use a TON of electricity to run proper. Couple that to modern batteries are crap and you get issues.

FOr those of you like me that refuse to shop on Amazon and Walmart I suggest Carquest as you can get WIX filters there. If I run regular oil I do a short change interval of 3000KM. If I run semi-synthetic I go the full 5K KM. If I run full synthetic I change it between 5-10K KM when it looks dirty on the dipstick. Prices in Canada are crazy right now, 5L of regular oil will set you back $50 if not on sale. I just paid $65 for a store brand (Canadian Tire) full synthetic 5L jug, and that was the sale price. Average price for name brand was $79 for 5L.

IF you overheated I would start with a compression test as well as testing the coolant for exhaust gases. You could also start by getting someone to scan it and look at live data and see what temperatures the computer is seeing. Check wiring see if anything looks melted around the coolant temp sensor.

It is not uncommom for a bad blower motor to take out the resistor/wiring plugs but that does not mean it is a guarantee. My blower makes a bit of noise when it's cold out but so far it's been OK. I really need to change it to prevent wiring/resistor issues though.

Great news! Glad the original showed up and worked first time, it can be a nightmare when something goes into theft mode.

You need to figure out if it is in theft mode, which it likely is. You cannot just drop in a programmed cluster while it is theft mode, it will not fix it if that is the case. The theft system looks at the key, the cluster and the module itself to decide what to do. Once it is tripped, it is not a simple task to get it out as you need a higher level scan tool to get into the modules. Remotely programming modules is not an exact science, there are lots of problems that can happen. Try and find someone local.

88 octane is bad but you don't care about a useless k&n filter? Run what the manual says to run. Highest octane is not always the best choice. Skip the k&n, they are more trouble than they are worth. Factory filter/airbox is more than able to flow all the air your engine will ever need.

It's likely in theft mode along with whatever the original problems are. It's a 3000lb brick. You need to find someone that has dealer level scan tools to hopefully get it out of theft mode and then maybe you can flash the cluster to work. Messing with the cluster was a BAD idea, they have to be flashed to the car properly or theft mode just kills it dead.

It's used up. 200K miles on a hybrid is a gift, he should cherish the memories. It would be very cost restrictive to fix it.

Start with a compression test and if that does not show a smoking gun then a leakdown test would be next. To me there is no really good 1 answer solution to your issue. If it is indeed headgasket issues, those motors are notorious for cylinders warping making it nearly impossible to seal with a new gasket without major machine work. Take it one step at a time, a compression test should guide your path.

There is basically no support in the aftermarket for the Fusion, whatever few things you may find are more cosmetic than anything. Make sure your water pump has been replaced before you do anything, it is the death knell for that engine if the pump is allowed to leak at all as it goes internally into the crankcase.

The quality of quick struts has fallen off a cliff. I would buy all the individual parts and have them built using quality parts. SUre it will be far more expensive, but you will regret quick struts when they crap out after a year.

Either an EVAP valve or the cannister itself is no good. The cap is only responsible for sealing, not venting.

If the turbo comes apart while driving you'll sure wish you didn't drive it.

I cannot find anything on the code, you need to get someone with a higher level scan tool to get in there, probably something in the ABS module, but that is a pure guess.

Direct injected cars like the Ecoboost lineup can have bluish smoke from bad/leaky injectors or improper fuel pressure. You need to do a case study, start writing down when you have to add oil (if you do) and how much. Would not hurt to have it looked at for fueling problems too.

How good of a scan tool was it? My best internet guess is possible the sensor that locates where the steering column is, yaw sensor I believe it is called.

I'd be checking fuel pressure before throwing anything else at it. Make sure you are using good brand name parts, cheap chinese parts will just add to the hell of fixing it.

I cannot answer if it can be done, but I would expect the BCM would be looking for low power headlights if originally equipped with LED headlights.

YOu're going to struggle to find parts like that, Ford has already obsoleted the 3.0 for the most part. I would first call a few dealers and see if they have parts otherwise used is going to be the only option.