WKelley

THat is the OCV which controls the variable valve timing. Look for a valve cover gasket set that has that seal and change the whole valve cover gasket set.

My best guess is loose brake pads or missing shims/brake hardware. Pull the wheels and inspect.

Time to lay your eyes on the SJB and the wiring. It could also help to have the car scanned and see what the lights are actually on for. Electrical diagnosis is usually not cheap, finding someone that can do it right is the most important part, I would not consider the dealer to be the place to get this done. Most dealerships do not have an advanced level electrical tech.

My best internet guess is that it really has to be something with the rack & pinion/tie rods and or strut bushings. Have soemone turn the wheel for you and put your hand on the coil spring/strut and see if you can feel the bump there. As well, Iif all the tie rods are good and the bushings on the EPS/rack are good then I have to agree there may be an internal fault with the EPS. Since the car is not moving it is unlikely suspension/balljoints. One of my biggest fears about my 2010 is EPS failure needing replacement, them things are pricey!

Out of the blue my speedo is acting up, I am shocked as to how much the sensor is, even ROckAuto wants $150 for it. Here's to hoping its the pigtail.

That code does not point to the VVT solenoid alone, a quick internet search shows it could be an ignition issue as well as PCM or cam sensor.

Only open recalls on my car are the driver's airbag and the brake fluid swap. I have scanned the car and streamed the data and all the sensors seemed to be reading what I would expect to see. I have the ground strap coming, part # AE5Z-18801-A, hoping this fixes it once and for all. I will post back after I have the new part installed, should be here in the next few days. EDIT AS OF 8/11/22: I have the new ground strap with capacitor installed, will post back in a month or so or if it acts up sooner.

I would check the wiring on the side the light stays on at the tail light as well as the front marker light.

My best internet guess is something is not aligned with the shifter bracket. Try moving the shifter to neutral to see if it will start. Just keep your foot on the brake just in case.

Be ready for a BIG hole when you grind out that rust, once the paint is bubbled you have a hole.

Usually they get in through the cowl vent under the wiper cowling. THey don't need much space and are quite sneaky.

I would not change random parts to attempt to fix it. Get it scanned, even a basic bluetooth OBD II adapter and your phone can give you a wealth of information. Using a dartboard to diagnose is always a bad idea.

Sounds like you lost a bearing inside the transmission for that wobbly CV shaft. Probably easier/cheaper to find a junkyard transmission than fix yours. Highly unlikely you can get rid of the noise any other way.

Still no love. Is it normal that the gas pedal readings start at 18% and stop at 88%? Still no codes and if I cycle the key on for OBD Bluetooth scan device to power up it starts. It seems to be getting fuel and acts like there is no spark. It is completely random as to when this happens. EDIT: I just looked more carefully at the TSB for this problem, my car does not have the revised ground strap, ordering that tonight.

Check the connector to see if it has power. Check the wires leading to the connector as well.

It seems very strange there is no VIN, kinda hard to even consider it worth much more than spare parts if that is true. I did a quick google and they built it in 2007 and they are also a Ford dealership, I find it hard to believe there's no paperwork for it, dammit now I'm curious, lol.

IF it was fresh water flooding then immediately take the interior completely apart and dry it out properly. If it was salt water intrusion then the car is not worth fixing as salt water must be cleaned out immediately and fully, it just ruins cars. Either way once flooded the car will never be the same.

Stored codes? If there's an active miss there should be something stored. Also, check wiring for rodent damage around injectors and harnesses.

Compression test cylinder 2.

This is more of a local government issue since they now believe it is cheaper to brine/salt the roads and not dropping their blades to actually plow. If you're in the rust belt you can find 2-3yr old cars with rust holes, it heavily depends on what the previous owners did for rustproofing/maintenance. My 2010 has a light surface haze of rust and no paint issues so I am hoping that when I sandblast these areas (rear wheel wells) and get it sprayed or spray it myself will be enough. I'm pretty lucky, my car's last owner left it in the garage and cleaned it often so it is still solid, now it's my turn to put in the work and abate what rust I do have.

Find a real mechanic with a good scan tool and have them figure out which module is taking down the network. THe dealership is largely useless for this because no good self respecting electrical specialist would work for a dealership, they make far more solo. You could also try and find wiring diagrams and see which modules are on the network as the transmission. New cars have many many modules and all it takes is one to not work right and it wreaks havoc.

About a week after posting it did indeed fail to start again, same symptoms. THen about a week ago I let the level go down under 1/4 and it acted up. SO, today I installed a new Delphi pump assembly, will report back if this is not the fix, but figured it was the best place to start with a 12yr old car.

I don't see anywhere that you checked the fuel system, mostly fuel pressure and if you O2 sensors are working. Usually you do get a light for a bum O2, but I'd still hook it up to a scan tool and see what they are doing. Don't forget to check the power brake booster for leaks as well.

Power steering assisted racks need the power assist for lubrication as well. You will wear out the rack at a very accelerated rate with no fluid pressure. Sealing it off is not an option. WHen you see race/track cars with manual rack and pinion those units are designed to be used with no power steering pressure. It would be a mistake to use an assited rack without assist.

What did the engine come out of? If it was a manual transmission car did you remove the pilot bearing in the crankshaft? THere has to be something interfering with the torque cnverter, also make double triple sure it is seated all the way, it can be a chore sometimes.