KawiGuy95

Yeah just to reiterate, I have have diagnosed all the corners. Pads and rotors are not the issue we are past simple issues. I don’t have brake hose issues, it is either a HCU or a master cylinder but I have symptoms of both failures. e.g. squishy pedal alludes to master cylinder failure (with the exception that it only goes squishy when the vehicle is running and it is solid as a brick with the car off) e.g. The high speed pulsing is indicative of a bad HCU since I have new pads and rotors and no failed suspension components or bearings

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2013 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 FWD My driver rear caliper seized up and I had to replace caliper, pads and rotor as a set. Prior to this issue I had very sensitive and consistent brakes. Upon replacing these items and bleeding the system with a pressure bleeder and using ABS bleed on a scan tool. (Like 8 times now…) The are still spongy and I have only half my brake pedal, unless I quickly double pump at which time I have full braking capacity. No ABS lights or related codes and there is definitely no air in the system. I have ruled out leaks and swollen/damaged brake hoses. All new pads and either replaced or resurfaced rotors as well. Thinking it is either the Master cylinder or the HCU but not sure how to narrow it down form here. Most frustrating, expensive and time consuming issue I’ve ever had on a car. UPDATE Took it for another drive and realizing that I have pedal pulsation at higher speeds with hard than normal braking and a loss of half my pedal. Checked wheel bearings and suspension nothing worn.

Bought an ELM327 cable and a 1-year license for Forscan. Calibrated my ABS sensors and all is well!

Is it a common problem to have air in the ABS pump after a caliper change or changing other brake system components? (Without regard to the traction control issue here above) I had immaculate brakes before changing a LH rear caliper and then I bled the brakes with 2qts of DOT 4. Still had soft brakes and I used my scan tool to perform an ABS bleed several times but the brakes have been ass ever since. I have never had a car do this in my lifetime and it seems to be a common issue with these newer fords in general. I’m not sure if I need to order a pressure bleeder to fix the issue, but spending 200$ to fix this issue seems ridiculous. I already bought a $600 scanner to do ABS bleeds and it didn’t do a damn bit of difference. Also, annoyed that I cannot bleed the brakes at each corner with said scan tool as you can seemingly do with IDS. I may be wrong however.

Well, ordering a used ABS module. Going to install and program via AsBuilt data from Ford. We shall see what happens. Just want to clarify from last post. ABS light is not on. Park Brake light is permanently on and Advancetrac is disabled. Still have ABS functionality. I believe I screwed up the sensor parameters for Advancetrac in the ABS module. Hopefully a new module takes care of it.

Long story short. I just got a diagnostic scanner. I screwed up. Not sure what to do to fix it. I accidentally performed an isolation valve calibration and now I have advance trac light/abs light/brake light on. not sure what to do here. No preexisting ABS issues before my accident. I know I screwed up here. No need to inform.

Truthfully, I don’t trust my dealer. They are spot on with the transmission fluid interval on these 6F35 transmissions (recommending fluid changes at 30k mi intervals. So, I figured they may know something I didn’t. I asked the parts guy and he said he doesn’t get parts in for these and they are not affected by cam phaser issues like the 3.5 V6. So, I am no longer concerned at this point because apparently the Duratec engines are very sound. I, however - will be doing the water pump, thermostat, both engine belts and upgrading to Fords new yellow coolant. (All Ford parts) Is there any easy way to find torque specs for these?

2013 Ford Fusion SE 2.5l Duratec I know timing chains are “Life Time” on these engines according to Ford maintenance schedules. My dealer suggested it at 130000mi and I am at 167000. Should I be worried? Has anyone done a timing chain outside of having issues? Sorry if this is a repeat, I scoured the forums for previous information before posting. TIA