Grampy

Oil filter(s): the 2 I use most (either @ Walmart or Amazon, whichever costs less), Motorcraft FL 910 / 910S Supertech ST3614 Both are very good filters for the $$, I used to disassemble my old filters, these 2 are well built, and post use inspection has taken Fram off my list to ever use. I keep an "inventory' of drain plug gaskets in my oil change kit.. I have used copper, but default to the "plasti-rubber" with seating ridges. I'm not gonna advise on ramps, I used to use them, but since I got a 4 post lift the ramps just hang on the wall. Oil I always use 100% synthetic, I use high mileage (different additive pkg) when it is available. I generally buy what is on sale (Menards currently has Pennzoil full synthetic for $16.99 for 5 qts) and I change the oil & filter @ 5K miles.

That is what I would try.

Old thread BUT: My fleet is 4 cars, 2 trucks, and 2 motorcycles. I do 99% of all maintenance myself and 100% of the oil changes. I have a nice gearwrench "socket kit" made especially for oil changes, in it I keep a supply of 50+ drain plug gaskets, When you buy in bulk they are a few cents each. gear wrench.webp

The kind of repair that makes me proud to know there are other people out there that know how things work and /or how to troubleshoot, and don't just take it to a dealer and pay $1000 for what could have been an easy repair. Example, my wife took her '02 Explorer in because 4WD wasn't engaging.. they told her it needed an $800 module + labor.. I had her bring it home so I could look at it after work... I looked at the wiring diagram, crawled underneath \found the ground wire that was broke off of the transfer case. Installed a NEW more robust grounding strap.. worked great for years afterwards, even after we gave it to her brother.. eventually he abused it enough to trash the transmission.

I'm impressed you are able to get that picture. I just replaced one on a 2015, they look like this..(the one I replaced on my 2002 Explorer looked very similar) So based on our picture, align the new ones operating shaft & put it in, put the bolt(s) / screw(s) in and plug it in.. I have the 2010 shop manual, if you need any additional information.

I am (was) displeased that Ford eliminated their only affordable "family car" (Fusion) sacrificing that market to the Japanese and Korean manufacturers. But in China the Lincoln Zephyr (aka MKZ) and Mondeo (Fusion) live on.. A comeback in the US? But as a Lincoln, affordable is not in my opinion part of the formula Article: https://fordauthority.com/2022/12/lincoln-zephyr-spotted-on-u-s-roads-photos/

Good luck, the good news it isn't the speedometer (eliminating things that are NOT the problem is good troubleshooting) the bad news it isn't the speedometer (speedometer is an easy fix)

The computer gets the "speed" signal 1st (not like the old days when a cable spun a magnet). If the indication is "flakey" but the computer is seeing the actual speed (you can verify with your "torque" app, you can use it as the speedometer directly from the ELM327 gizmo, my brother did for about a year in his '04 Silverado) I haven't heard of FORD having many recent speedo issues, but GM (trucks) have a long and poor history of dash inst's goin "bananas" so much so there is an industry of electronic DIYers that rebuild GM inst panels for about $100 (that's what my brother eventually did). You have options, might I suggest www.car-part.com, to find a local junkyard replacement speedo if you diagnose it to the inst panel or maybe even that "$150 speed sensor you mentioned. I have had success over teh years keeping my vehicles alive w/ "used parts". Back in the day I bought a junk yard speedo for my son's '94 F150 XL (his XL was a manual transmission, yet the XL DID NOT come with a tach, so I got him one out of an XLT w/ a tach for christmas. My daughters '02 Mountaineer teh speedo would stick @ 60 MPH periodically, she didn't care till she got a ticket. Stopped she showed the cop it was still at 60, she thumped it went back down, I got her a junkyard replacement.. , In court he cop said he remembered her and it was the "da**est" thing it was really stuck @ 60, she showed the judge the receipt and said my Dad replaced it for me, judge let her go w/ no fine, since it was fixed. I don't have my 2010 shop manuals where I am right now, I can access them in about 2 weeks.. If you need help researching the manuals/wiring diagrams in a couple of weeks drop a message.

Thanx for sharing the "Good News"

When I cracked a rim on my '95 LHS I bought 2(one fore the full size spare) at a local junk yard. Over the years used parts have served me well. For junk yards near you (or allover the US) goto: www.car-part.com

I clicked on the link you provided, it says it replaces AE5Z19E616B so that sounds correct. My experience, it is easier to disconnect / reconnect teh electrical plug with it installed, because I can usually only get 1 hand on it and installed I can get leverage. Good Luck.. You should be back in business soon.

Based on your (described) symptoms, the drivers side (Left Hand side) blend damper actuator sounds correct. The good news (for you) is, according to the shop manual, there is NO big time disassembly to get to it. And the screws look to be 7 or 8mm hex head (The 2015 they were phillips heads, what a PITA) I suggest you read both pages for the "recalibration procedure". According to the shop manual (picture below) the part number should include 19E616

Sort of depends, on which HVAC controls you have; If you Dual heat / AC there are 2 Blend dampers (one for Pass side, one for Drivers side): Basically: The Mode damper selects which "vents" the air comes out of. The Blend Damper(s) determine the temperature. The damper actuators are the little computer controlled electric motors that move the dampers. It is possible something is obstructing the damper from full travel, but the actuators are common failures on "modern FORDS" (on older styles the plastic gears were weak and would break, the newer styles the gears are more robust, but the "electronic position feedback wipers" are less robust and the actuator doesn't know where it is anymore.. 1st symptom is usually a clicking sound before failure). As long as the air comes out the correct vents, the mode damper and it's actuator is operating as it should. If the temperature is incorrect fault is at least one (if you have dual HVAC control) Blend damper and or actuator The good news is the actuators are not expensive ($60 or less). The bad news is they are usually very hard to get to, if out of warranty FORD dealers usually rip you off for $800 or more, a good AND honest mechanic can usually do it for the $200-$300 neighborhood, a handy friend would be even better. Over teh yars I have (had to) replace a few of these actuators, a few weeks ago: I replaced a mode damper actuator on a friends 2015 Fusion SE (it would not blow out the defrost). It took about 1 1/2 hours, the time consumed is because of all the stuff that has to be removed to reach it, and reaching it still isn't easy, and you have to have tools small enough to fit it where it is. Before I put the new actuator on, I disassembled the old actuator and used the "shaft" to make sure the damper was able to make "full travel". I also used this shaft to align the damper to the position the NEW actuator was set to so installation was easier (the shaft is keyed and only fits on one way). My philosophy: It is possible I could have fixed the old actuator by cleaning all the interior electrical contacts, but getting it out and putting it back in is so cumbersome, once I'm in there I'm puttin' in a new one. There are 2 schools of thought of what brand to buy to replace it: Some folks swear by only putting Motorcraft back in, saying the off brands are not as reliable. That has merit, but I like to point out, the OEM actuators fail all the time, even though I am inclined to put a Motorcraft part back in there.. it is the Motorcraft POS from the factory that failed in the 1st place. And in the days before all these electronic gizmos, damper actuators were either cables or vacuum operated.. I have owned cars for the early 60's. The "non-electronic" damper actuators never failed. If you are going to tackle this at home there are several youtube videos that are helpful (there is one where the guy takes the entire dashboard apart.. this IS NOT the one to watch to learn how to do it). Since it looks like you Fusion is a 2010, I have the shop manual(s) for 2010 Fusion/ Mila/MKZ, if you need pictures of where things are located, let me know which A/C controls you have and I can look it up.

I have wiring diagrams for 2010 Fusion/ Milan/ MKZ, maybe I can help. (I can pull them out tomorrow) So I understand. Start at the beginning from what I can gather, sounds like a fuse, but: when did it work, and what worked what stopped working what new parts have been installed did anything change

Sounds (to me) like the mode damper isn't moving all the way. The Mode damper selects which "vents" the air comes out of. The Blend Damper determines the temperature. The damper actuators are the little computer controlled electric motors that move the dampers. It is possible something is obstructing the mode damper from full travel, but the actuators are common failures on "modern FORDS". Although I would not expect it would happen on a 2019, because they almost always wait to fail until well out of warranty. The good news is the actuators are not too expensive ($60 or less). The bad news is they are usually very hard to get to, if out of warranty FORD dealers usually rip you off for $800 or more, a good AND honest mechanic can usually do it for the $200-$300 neighborhood, a handy friend would be even better. I replaced one on a friends 2015 Fusion a few weeks ago. (it would not blow out the defrost). It took about 1 1/2 hours, the time consumed is because of all the stuff that has to be removed to reach it, and reaching it still isn't easy, and you have to have tools small enough to fit it where it is. I assume the 2019 hybrid actuator, is at least as difficult to get to as my friends 2015 SE, there is likely a you tube video out there that may help. I had to replace the blend actuator on my 2002 Explorer a few years ago, it was about as difficult to get to as the 2015 Fusion. A friends 2012 F150 blend actuator was the hardest to get to (of course, because it's mode damper actuator on teh F150 isn't too hard to get to).

2K miles on new tires all season, the 2.5l doesn't have near as much breakaway torque as the HO 3.5l the LHS had. Plus I'm alot older and don't get on the gas like I did in the 90's. My F150 has TCS also it slips less.. I'm not saying it doesn't work, but I expected better.

2.5l only has CHT (cylinder head temp) (according to the 2010 shop manual)

The dealer says it IS getting fuel and spark. The fact they cannot diagnose any further would lead me to distrust anything they have told me so far. I would confirm this assessment. Years ago I had a '95 Chrysler LHS.. suddenly with no other (known to us symptoms) it would crank just fine, but not fire (start).. When I checked it.. NO SPARK and NO FUEL to the cylinders, interesting coincidence. Made me think PCM, I searched for a junkyard unit.. found one and I was waiting for "monday" when they opened. I was frustrated, when my wife out of the blue asked, what would it do if the security system decided to kill the car? The shop manual only says it has a security system and where the module was located, and how to replace it. But no description of how it works or any troubleshooting steps. I initiated the (security) alarm, by locking all the doors with the remote while I was in the car then I opened a door It alarmed, a bunch of lights on teh dash were going bananas, and then I reset by putting the key in the key in the ignition. The car started right up. My wife's question saved me $200 minimum and a few more days of headaches.

I acquired the 2010 Milan when my >90YO Mom decided she didn't want to drive anymore.. (She still has a Jeep Patriot w/ <16K miles just in case) Basically I gave up nothing except $$$ what I like: The 2.5l Milan is the Best MPG car I drive, several MPG better than the next in my fleet (2003 Vette), and 50% better than my "former" daily driver, the '09 F150. The Milan is comfortable and has nice (premier) features like heated leather seats, steering wheel controls, sun roof and sync. Complexities like sync are new to me but I am starting to like how it works. So far it seems relatively easy to work on, however I haven't had to replace any of the HVAC damper actuators (yet). I have on several other Fords (mine and friends), and they are always a PITA, but the stealerships want SOO many $$$ I'll always do them myself. Shortcomings: My Mom had this car for several years, her driving and vision skills have (as expected) declined, resulting in various dings, nicks and scratches. But overall it qualifies as an actual car "..driven by a little old lady back and forth to church on Sundays" Today was the 1st time I drove it in snow. I was disappointed at how much fwd slip there was starting out from a stop. I would have expected the TCS to do a better job. I previously had a '95 Chrysler LHS with fwd and TCS, it was far superior to the way the Milan performed today.

I've had this car (2010 Milan) for just under a year. The whole sync system is foreign to me.. I put all my (extracted) CD files as MP3's on a USB device.. in the Milan it would periodically make a random (loud / non music) noise.. It was annoying.. as time progress I reloaded the songs on that USB device.. no real change.. I loaded songs on a different (same brand)USB device. The problem has not resurfaced. Analysis: the original USB device was 128GB the replacement USB device is 16GB Conclusion: I assume the version of sync on 2010 Milan's (Fusion's) does not properly handle a 128GB USB.. for me the good news is all my "non-Christmas" songs fit on a 16GB USB, and all my Christmas songs fit on another 16GB USB. If this is good info for anyone you are welcome.. If anyone has insights that add or subtract from my conclusion I would be glad to hear about it.

LKQ has a bunch of undamaged 2010 Fusion hoods available.. maybe already the color you need To find one go to: WWW.car-part.com

I generally budget $1000 / year / car to keep my cars in tip top shape.. I rarely use it up. Proper maintenance is money well spent especially with avg cost of a new car >$40K. $800+ for a set of tires that only last 50K.. Too much, shop around $3500 for that routine maintenance.. way too much, these are all things I do myse => dealerships are almost always overpriced => I have learned thru experience, they do not give my cars the care I do. Shoddy work at outrageous prices has driven me away from them for anything except warranty work.. and even then I check everything they touched. >90K on a set of brakes, I don't roll those dice. I am not an advocate of transmission flush, do it correctly, drop the pan, replace the filter. Sell or keep. I generally keep my cars for 20 years and over 200K miles, so my choice is keep. I only violated this rule when I let my '92 F150 go to get a higher towing capacity and better MPG with my '09 F150 (new was $18K + the '92). And I NEVER have car payments, if I can't write a check, I don't buy.. I do not lease or pay finance charges on depreciating assets.

Cracked oil pan? collision damage? horrible design? I don't know the answer to your question but--->Storytime: I had a '92 F150 (302-V8) While changing the oil, I noticed "rust bubbles" in the paint on the oil pan, I pushed them, oil was seeping thru them (very minor).. Imagine my surprise, of all the places to rust the oil pan was rusting through. Amazingly the body on this truck NEVER had any rust! My investigation showed this was a common problem (with this vintage 302 V8). The solution (under warranty) was Ford lifted the engine enough to replace the oil pan.. @125K miles the warranty option was not available to me. What I did: I HATE LEAKS of ANY KIND! I decided NOT to lift the engine (yet). I drained the oil pan, sanded all the bubbles, which exposed 3 holes.. cleaned the oil residue with brake cleaner. fiberglass (cloth) and epoxied the oil pan. Let it cure for a day. To be honest, it didn't look good (smooth) but it was effective. Restored the oil to normal.. drove it for another 100K miles before I traded it for my '09 (17 years old and still no body rust)..never leaked a drop of anything in the driveway other than when it had the "pre-epoxied" oil pan. I wish the body of my '09 held off the rust all well as the body of the '92 did.

I don't think the 3.0 (normal aspirated) has an (engine) oil cooler in your radiator. It may have an automatic transmission (fluid) cooler in the radiator.. I would check that level also. We all fear coolant in our oil, the engine can be destroyed quickly. Plus we all assume the coolant (pressurized) would make its way "Into" the crankcase. (we've all seen the NASCAR's blown engines spewing white smoke as the cooling system pours into the cylinders) But remember, oil at your oil pump runs in the 40# range, coolant is a max of 14#. Thus there are "ways" a leaking head gasket. CAN result in oil being pumped into the coolant passages. Oil leaking into coolant-> something is being deprived of it's normal amount of oil Oil leaking into coolant-> normal cooling is disrupted / compromised, engine oil does not have the same heat capacity of coolant, and it's viscosity is quite different (enough oil it can damage the water pump). These are long term negatives, the only solution.. find, fix, flush coolant refill.

The "flat, black, stiff, wire lookin gizmo" is not a wire, it is called the "Tether", why is it there? I have NO idea.. The other end (of this tether) is under the dash behind the steering wheel, toward the passenger side. It is hard to find, but once you see it, you will realize it can't be anything else. It is a bright nut holding the other end of the tether.. the service manual makes it sound like if you remove the nut the tether will come right off.. (my experience on my 2010 Milan, is it is a total PITA to get it off the bolt). I wish you luck.