Grampy

LEXIVON 5/8" Swivel Magnetic Spark Plug Socket, 3/8" Drive x 6" Total Length | Enhanced Magnetic Design With Thin Wall Socket, Cr-v Steel

Usually ebay, When I picked my (used) 2010 Milan, I got the shop manuals, I do 95% of the work on my cars myself, => I try to have the shop manuals for all the vehicles I own. Came in pretty handy when I added power trailer towing mirrors to my F150 XL (the harnessed were not there for the mirrors, turn signals, heat or puddle lights) So I built them and the wiring diagrams helped me decide where to power everything.

Diagram of a typical 12V SPST relay (a SPDT will work also, they generally cost about $5 each)

1)The Fusion / Milan are built on a unibody thus NO FRAME Some hitch manufacturers make hitches for SOME unibody cars, but the engineering is very important. 2) The Hybrid does NOT have a "normal" transmission" it has teh CVT transmission, a great concept, but cannot survive being overloaded due to towing.. maybe 500# would be OK.. Since this post is 8 years old I doubt this guy still has his "hybrid"

The other 2 drawings / prints You may thin C219 would be a descent place to cut the wire NOPE it is a HUGE connector, hard to get to. In the console there is plenty of room to "hide" the relay you added.

Gonna take more than 1 post: 1st we see the cigar lighter and "power point" are fed separately and always hot (F22 & F29) {page 44-1} Next I show the pinouts for connector C3256 pin one (green / red 22 gauge wire) is hot in run and start (ref other drawings later) next is the location drawing of components in the console. What I did, I used the wire @ C3256 to power a relay, the (new) relay controls the power to the cigar lighter via pin 1 of C319 {Grey Red} (cut the wire and wired the relay between . I used the wire @ pin 3 (Black White} of C319 as the ground for the relay. Fuse F41 is powered thru the "Accessory delay relay the prints (pages 13-11 & 13-12) connect thru triangle Z then on to pin 1 of C3256. So in my car I replaced the power point with a USB connector for mine & my wifes phones. When you start the car it is on, when you shut it off it stays live along with the radio / power windows etc until the accessory delay timer kills 'em (i.e. you open the door)

I have 2010 wiring diagrams. I too have things I don't want draining the battery. the way I power them is use the cigar lighter as "power", but put a relay in that comes "on" when key is in run. If you are still interested I can post the drawing.

1) Symptoms you describe do not sound anything like an O2 sensor, sounds more like the computer put it in "limp mode" due to thinking it was overheating. 2) If the indicated engine temp still pegs high, AND you do not have a real overheating problem, I would look at the sensor that drives the gauge, how is the wiring, (top rear of the 3.0l engine) is it grounding out? It is possible, even though unlikely the new CHT (cylinder head temperature sensor) failed again the same way. Can you reach and jiggle the wiring while some one watches the temperature gauge (with the key on)? NOTE a review of the wiring diagram shows pin 1 of connector C107 (to the CHT) goes to the powertrain control module (the brain) pin 39, pin 2 of C107 goes to splice S181, common to all kinds of other engine sensors and also returns to teh powertrain control module. If you cannot find bad wiring and the codes point to head temperature (CHT), I would re-replace the CHT myself. 3) Either get a code reader, have an auto parts store read the codes or find a REAL non-dealership mechanic you can trust.. get the codes read and troubleshot properly and fix the actual problem. 4) Always request the old parts. They are required by law to give them to you unless replaced under a (free) warranty covered repair. Some things, like temperature sensors, I can test, plus I want to learn what failed and how if I can. True story: Earlier this year my daughter in-law was driving her Equinox (with 80K miles), it started running rough and stalled, she could restart it but it was rough, with a check engine light. She took it to the dealership (where she bought it new), they charged her $130 to tell her it needed major internal engine work, costing $3000 or more. She told me, We went and got it.. They seemed appalled we were not gonna pay >$3K to have them "fix it" and asked what are you gonna do with it, and if she was willing to trade it in as is. I told 'em even though the symptoms don't point to it, if it needs internal timing work, I can handle it. I read the codes, read bad exhaust valve timing, (a shop with integrity might charge as much as $60 to do this 5 minute job) I removed both the exhaust & Intake timing solenoids, cleaned 'em even though @ a mere 80K miles w/ regular oil changes they were not dirty. Put 5 volts to the exhaust solenoid (didn't move, should move fully with 5 volts). Put 15 volts on it, and it freed up.. varied the voltage from 0 -5 and it operated properly throughout the applied voltage range, as did the intake solenoid (always worked). Re installed 'em.. The car runs great, ordered new exhaust and intake timing solenoids and replaced 'em just to be sure (about $40 each), it has been 10K miles since NO problems.. I attempted to emphasize my distrust of dealerships to her.

Sounds like a permissive for the relay (in other words the relay is NOT being 'told' to turn on) The permissives are determined by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), and are generally designed to protect the A/C compressor from damage. Typical permissives: adequate refrigerant pressure sensed on the suction line (LPCO, generally too little refrigerant) A/C demand by climate control auxillary fans running compressor discharge pressure (HPCO If too high it shuts down, usually due to inadequate heat sink or blocked refrigerant line) I think our vintage Fusion(s) et al the PCM sneses refrigerant pressure via a pressure transducer (not the old days of a pressure switch) In summary: could be wiring, the PCM, the pressure transducer, refrigerant charge, or even the HVAC controls and / or the CAN buss.

Lesson #1 temper always costs $$$$ Probably too old, but I just replaced one of mine (bought the car used) But for anyone in a similar dilemma here you go. 1) a new vent assembly was about $35 (August 2022) 2) Once I got the old one out I was able to fix it, but I used the new one anyway, The old one is now part of GRAMPY's parts warehouse (aka my garage) 3) The upper console (with the vents) has to come out a bit: remove the rubber matt, remove 2 - 7mm screws, pull toward you while lifting the back to undo the clips. The bad news is there is a tether keeping it from going too far (aka far enough to be useful), the other end of the tether is held in place by a 10mm nut, location is tough, to the right of the steering column. (the good news is when you see it you'll know it, it looks out of place (very shiny) with what looks to be a yellow plastic strap being held by it.. make no mistake this cheap lookin' strap is quite robust). Once the nut is off hopefully you can get enough play in the tether to give you room to replace the vents. the $64,000 question.. why is this plastic assembly tethered? I HAVE NO IDEA.

Most cars have the LPCO switch mounted via a shrader (like a tire) valve, that allows replacement w/o leaking freon. Let us know if this is NOT the case.

I'll assume you got a new actuator, I disassembled my old actuator and used the shaft to cycle the damper by hand, it was difficult @ 1st then it freed up (why was it hard to operate? I have NO idea) My 02 Explorer shop manual was quite detailed showing the dampers and air flow. In contrast, I am frustrated that my shop manuals for the 2010 Fusion/Milan/MKZ/Hybrid (I assume 2012 manuals are similar) show NONE of these useful diagrams or locations. You may have luck getting a plenum (with the damper inside) @ a junkyard, I like to use Car-part.com, I wish you luck.

It is connected behind the temp sensor (to the right of the steering wheel where you can just barely get to it) it is a 10mm nut. The shop manual makes it sound easy, There is a YouTube video where the guy removes the nut and part of the strap looks to just drop off, giving a few more inches of play...That all said even after I removed the nut I could not get the strap off even with pliers I actually don't know why the Fusion/ Milan need this strap (my F150 doesn't have one), maybe it has something to do with airbag deployment.. Makes no sense to me..