FusionAZ

Thanks for the positive feedback on the write up. This was much more affordable and easier than trying to pull the whole transaxle from the car. I would agree that a "trained professional" when it is out of someone's scope of practice is the most viable option. If someone does not know how to de-energize a high voltage traction battery system they should not be working on it. I am not a trained professional but I have a fundamental understanding of how this system works and how to work on it. Side Note: No shop will just take the guts out of a transaxle and put the guts in. They will require a new transaxle to be put in.

Just wanted to do a quick DIY repair thread on the P1A16 error code (usually accompanied by a bunch of other codes that lock out the battery). So it turns out that the coolant pump for the inverter/transaxle was weak and or failing. In my case it was moving water just not well and it had burnt up my inverters (Car is located in a hot climate). Per the PC/ED supplemental manual it states you will need to replace the whole transaxle on the car. I ended up buying a used transaxle (the shop accidentally split the unit in my case). They also dropped the gear portion so I ended up getting the inverter portion that I needed (at an extreme discount). In most cases you will need to buy the whole transaxle since it is a "sealed combo unit". If a shop is not that bright and split it they are obligated to sell you the whole thing since it is just one part number (or ask for a discount). This is not a Prius or newer gen Fusion/Lincoln where its a separate unit. I have linked screenshots from the online manual offered by https://www.nicksmustangranch.com/. The P1A16 code specifically means the inverter is toast. If you like to wrench in general on your car Nick has the most comprehensive interactive online Ford Manuals (just requires a donation for access). He does it as a hobby and I have found the service manuals and diagnostics to be extremely helpful. ***WARNING SIDE NOTE****** Before taking on a project like this realize this is a high voltage system and it can kill you. Follow all proper procedures and guidelines to stay safe and you will be okay. I pulled the high voltage disconnect for the car. To double check I used a voltmeter before proceeding to verify the voltage was not present. You can also get high voltage gloves. I also disconnected the 12v battery as well. With that disclaimer out of the way regarding safety. Here are some general photos with lots of steps not shown. Quick Rundown: -Remove cover -Disconnect all wire harnesses and pull aside (be sure not to crimp or damage) -Remove circuit board and its attached bracket -Remove all bolts holding on the inverters (do no let them fall into the car when reinstalling) -(Optional) Ohm the 3 phase motors while you have access to make sure the transaxle is good -Remove the Inverters keeping track of where the units go (Doner to Car) -(Optional) Get some computer thermal compound and put it on the bare spots (I did not remove the paste). Or buy industrial thermal compound (Probably overkill). -Reverse installation of the inverters -****KEY POINT*** Install the cars existing circuit board or the car will NOT start and be immobilized -REPLACE THE COOLANT PUMP FOR THE TRANSAXLE Some Photos of the process: Here is the inverter in the car with the cover still on. I had started to remove the reservoir at this point. I have removed the cover on the inverter. The green circuit board needs to go back into the car and not the doner board. So set it aside and make sure it does not get damaged. Super important or your hosed. As you can see I moved the attached wires to the side to not get damaged. I then removed the bracket that held on the circuit board. I removed all the hex head bolts on the inverters and unplugged the wires shown. This is the doner car's inverters. It looked like the first picture and had the board and all the other parts. I removed everything but left in the inverters until I was ready. This is crucial since you do not want debris between the thermal paste and the heatsink in the car. Just a side note and tip leave all the metal plates on the old inverters and new ones. You will have to loosen them but do not remove to just make life easier. Here is a closeup of the used inverters. You can see how I left the tabs on. You will also need to replace the water pump for the inverter/transaxle. If you go on eBay you can buy a genuine Engine Auxiliary Water Pump Bosch 0392023014. It is the exact same pump and you can install it in the stock Ford bracket. This is much cheaper than the $$$$$$ Bosh part with the Ford part sticker on it (I just transferred the sticker over). This is not for the faint of heart but if one has some mechanical knowledge it is doable. Just have to be safe and take your time. Also, change the transaxle fluid to prolong the life of the transmission.

This only applies if you have the P1A16 error code along with all the others. The low voltage and other codes essentially lock out the car from the battery. When you turn the key and it does not start it essentially failed the safety checks. I did a comprehensive DIY on the code in the forum if you click here.

Update: I was in a fortunate position to pick up the upper portion of a transaxle inverter and replaced the unit. The car now runs but now I get a P1A0C-00-2B. Car moves but no acceleration and then it rattles and dies. I am not sure if the rest of transaxle is bad or not. I now have C1018-00-28, P0AFA-16-2A, P1A0C-00-2B. I have cleared the codes and I have a P1A0C-l00-28. I have a low miles 2012 Lincoln MKZ with only 73k miles on the car. One owner that has been overly serviced by the Ford dealership. It currently has a no start condition with a few TCM and PCM codes. I came across Thomas Watson's Post in this forum regarding shorted wires. Has anyone came across similar errors or issues with wiring? This car has been garaged in the desert its whole life so no corrosion or other issues from the weather. I have to give a big shout out to Nick's Mustang Ranch for service manuals and wiring diagrams. He has an easy to use with links service manual, wiring diagram and PC/ED supplement for the 2011 Fusion Hybrid. He also has manuals for the 2014 and 2016 model years also. Per the PC/ED the P0A78 indicates a new transaxle is needed but I have some other odd codes. I also have a great charge on the hybrid battery so that is not an issue. I have also reset the battery age to reflect it being only a year old. (OK) [08:18:44.091] Successful DTC reset, DTCs will be read now... (WARN) [08:18:44.583] DTCs in TCM: P1A16:15-AF, P0A78:87-AF (WARN) [08:18:44.943] DTCs in PCM: P1000:00-2B, P1A14:00-2B (WARN) [08:18:45.571] DTCs in ACCM: P0AFA:16-68 These are the general codes in short order regarding the car. Below I have the detailed data from each error message. Has anyone else out there had a similar combination? I was thinking of taking the inverter cover off to see if I could check the stator wires for resistance. I will be looking at the wiring harness to see if there is any damage in the wires. Module: Battery Energy Control Module Code: P1A16 - Variable Voltage Controller Voltage Control Circuit Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Battery Or Open Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Transmission Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 352311932 s (Fri Oct 03 08:52:18 2036) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 118053 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.5 V - Control Module Voltage -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 5 °C - Outside temperature -G_INV_V: 0.00 V - Generator Inverter Voltage -TFT: 8 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_PHTMP: 0 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 8 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -G_PHTMP: 8 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -GCLTEMP: 8 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -M_SPEED: 0 1/min - Motor Speed -G_SPEED: 0 1/min - Generator Speed -RPM: 0 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -PRNDL_T: P - Shift Position -HV_INTLOCK: Closed - High Voltage Interlock -G_SDN_C: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Powertrain Control Module -G_SDN_B: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Vehicle System Control -FUELCUT: Not ShutDwn - Fuel Cut-off Signal -CONTACT: Open - Contactor Status -ABS Active: Normal - Antilock braking system -TCM_CAU: Off - Transmission Control Module Caution -TCM_HAZ: Off - Transmission Control Module Hazard Warning -MECT: 6 °C - Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature Code: P0A78 - Drive Motor A Inverter Performance Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Transmission Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 352311932 s (Fri Oct 03 08:52:18 2036) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 118053 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.5 V - Control Module Voltage -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 5 °C - Outside temperature -G_INV_V: 0.00 V - Generator Inverter Voltage -TFT: 8 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_PHTMP: 0 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 8 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -G_PHTMP: 8 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -GCLTEMP: 8 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -M_SPEED: 0 1/min - Motor Speed -G_SPEED: 0 1/min - Generator Speed -RPM: 0 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -PRNDL_T: P - Shift Position -HV_INTLOCK: Closed - High Voltage Interlock -G_SDN_C: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Powertrain Control Module -G_SDN_B: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Vehicle System Control -FUELCUT: Not ShutDwn - Fuel Cut-off Signal -CONTACT: Open - Contactor Status -ABS Active: Normal - Antilock braking system -TCM_CAU: On - Transmission Control Module Caution -TCM_HAZ: Off - Transmission Control Module Hazard Warning -MECT: 6 °C - Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature Code: P1000 - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module Code: P1A10 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module Code: P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission Disabled Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module Code: P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission Disabled Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ************************************** Successful DTC reading, no error codes found BECM OBDII OCS ABS DCDC RCM PSCM IPC

I am having all kinds of codes and this one popped up. By chance do you know where this photo was taken in relation to the wire harness? Is that the only photo that you have of the damage? My car is not running as well. Thank you!