notmuchwbu

The time between the two problems occurring is about 3 weeks

2016 Ford Fusion SE w/ 48000 miles on the clock. Too long; didn't read: Rear parking brakes stick and wont disengage unless the car sits not running for a few minutes before trying to disengage again. Traction control deactivated lights are permanently on and the ABS and "Check brake systems" lights come on after a short time driving. Old and crusty battery was replaced very recently d/t weird voltage codes and poor battery health to no avail. AutoZone codes are "Electric Park Brake Enable - Deactivated" (B1111-53), and "Ignition Switch - Signal Invalid" (U300A-29). AutoZone report mentioned replacing the electronic parking brake actuator(s). No idea what the ignition switch code is for. Honestly just hoping it's a wiring issue I can fix. One day out of nowhere, I get into my car and turn it on to see the traction control light and traction control off lights on my dash, which I had never deactivated before. After driving for 3 minutes I'm hit with an ABS warning and a "Check brake systems" warning. I pulled over and checked my brake fluid level, my engine's fuse box, my brake pads & calipers (by eye), and nothing was apparently wrong. My brakes also work the same as before, and the master cylinder compresses fine in park. I took it to AutoZone for a free scan, and it came back with weird voltage codes (U3003-16, U3003-17), "Electric Park Brake Enable - Deactivated" (B1111-53), and "Ignition Switch - Signal Invalid" (U300A-29). I switched out my (already really old battery), which resolved the voltage codes, but didn't fix the other two. The report mentioned replacing the electronic parking brake actuator(s). Turns out, I can engage the parking brakes using the switch normally, but I can't immediately disengage them. I found this out when trying to troubleshoot. They'll only release if I turn off the car and wait a couple minutes before turning it back on and pushing down the switch. Sidenote: I had some animal get into my front bumper and chew a few wires leading to my horn and front hood latch sensor. I patched them myself (because I didn't feel like spending hundreds on a harness), and I really don't think any of the connections are shorting with each other, nor do they have any obvious involvement with the parking/braking systems. Who knows if this is relevant.