VonoreTn

Thanks to all. I really miss my Wife, she did all the bills and taxes and was the Club womens golf champion not so long ago. She had many good years left, stolen by cancer. You often don't realize what you have until it's gone. ? The FFH sold the first day on Craigslist. $5K.

I'm going to take a wild guess that you drained the system at least partially of coolant to replace the waterpump, then you only filled the plastic pressurized tank to the full line, which will not replace all the coolant you drained. In other words, there is an air pocket in the system. Does the level in the plastic tank drop after running the engine? Don't run until the engine overheats, you can do a lot of damage if that happens, like blow a head gasket. Running the engine won't flush out the air until it gets up to ~190F to open the thermostat.

What was the original symptom for which you did the replacements? Why did you replace all 3? Not likely that they all failed. Unless the water pump froze up and broke the belt, but that wouldn't break the tensioner. Did you have this done or do it yourself? Thermostat stuck shut now? Need more info.

The rear brakes get partially applied every time you hit the brake pedal, they are not involved in the regen process of charging the battery when you step on the brake, which is all done with the front brakes. Hence if you only make gentle stops, the front pads will last forever. But factor in that the rear brakes are set up to only do about 30% of the braking, even on a normal non-hybrid car, so the FFH rear brakes should still last as long as on a non hybrid. You have motivated me to simply do new pads on my 2010 FFH rear, since I noticed last time the original rear pads are slightly over half worn. And I will also lube the pins. Anyone want to buy a pristine 2010 FFH? No accidents, no issues, 154K miles. Still gets 40 mpg, and the nickel metal hydride high voltage batteries were still running on hybrid Excape Taxi's in California at 300K miles. My Wife died recently and I only need the 2015 C-Max now. Here's how to think about the life of the rechargeable high voltage battery (HVB). If you had a rechargeable flashlight, that was computer controlled to never be over-charged or undercharged by controlling the in and out current whenever it was being used, that flashlight battery would last for decades, in that computer controlled environment. Because that's what happens in an FFH, the computer babies the HVB. Over charging and under charging is the thing that eventually wears out any rechargeable battery which never happens on an FFH. That's why Ford doesn't even stock replacement HVB's.

The set of 4 TPMS's worked good, except when I had them installed at the dealership, one of them didn't work. So I had to buy one at the dealership, but I still came out ahead versus 4 bought at the dealership. The mechanic at the dealership ended up using the $13 tester I bought shown way above, and preferred it to his Dealership tool. We made a trade, free labor on the failed TPMS removal and reinstall if I let him keep the tester. ?

Some questions. How many miles on it, and is the electric fan coming on? Sounds like the heat might be involved. Make sure your coolant levels are at the correct levels. Follow bbf2530's advice, his recommendations are perfect. I have saved a lot of money by having a DTC code reader. My 2010 FFH is still getting 40 mpg at 153K miles. Virtually no problems, and this forum has been a big help in solving issues without expensive repairs.

Good job. I didn't know you could clean an O2 sensor, I thought they either worked or they didn't work. I agree on the unnecessary increase in gas prices too.

Can you describe your term "pulls to left" better. It is one thing if the car with hands off on a non-crowned surface "drifts" to the left or right, which is not that serious. Possible related wheel alignment. If it like indexes the steering wheel left or right, that is a different problem, probably related to the position sensors. New sensors should not cost $3K. How many miles on your car, and does it still do electric mode below 46 mph?

I got the code, which told me it was the upstream O2 sensor so I got the BOSCH 17475 Actual OE Oxygen Sensor from Rock Auto, $67, at 101,000 miles, in November 2014. I replaced it myself. I had to take the heat shield off to get a wrench on the base of it. Taking the heat shield off was not as hard as I thought it would be. I'm at 152,000 miles now, no more issues. They still sell them there. My mpg average, based on 100% record of all gas purchases is 39.35. What hurts the mpg number is 4-5 times a week I drive the car one mile uphill to our development tennis courts, on a cold engine. ? On the road I always get at least 40 still. I had the engine computer code rewrite done, to allow the engine off mode to continue below 46 mph. Thank you Jack Weiss, forum buddy.

More information would help. Model year, mileage, 12 volt battery status. If the 12 volt battery is under 9 volts the car won't start at all, but as soon as you put a 12 volt charger on it and bring it up to 12 volts, it will start, like in a couple of minutes, then it will recharge the 12 volt battery. And any other symptoms. You might try googling your car model and year with that error code and see what you come up with. I found one such result but it was a 2006 Ford Escape hybrid, where a major wire harness was completely cut. The wires were all reconnected and it ran like new. See link below. https://tinyurl.com/yp3fndbf

Good advice, I'll just do that.

Ok guys, Amazon says these will fit my car. 315 hz, right? See picture below. I think I will buy this set of 4, and one new tire. on the FFH I run my tires down to the wear indicator, and number 2 tire is there. We have very little to no snow here in Tn. The FFH is no longer our trip car. I often go 2 months between fillups. I have at least 5/32 of tread on the other 3. Number 1 is almost new. Side note, the FFH and my 2015 C-Max, both came with the exact same tires. Michelin 225-50-17. I just put 4 new ones on the C-Max late last year....$840 at 71K miles. On that car I have had the tires rotated by the dealer at oil changes. The C-Max has had nothing go wrong with it, now at 86K miles. If I drive 70 mph on the highway, I can get 40 mpg. Similar to the FFH. Significantly higher on rural trips, even with hills, mid 40's. Too bad they quit making C-Max's and Fusion Hybrids. I guess the Escape now has a hybrid again, and I assume it will get 40 mpg. That might be my next car.

Thanks for the feedback. And I am not sensitive, so I consider the possibility that I did something wrong as information. But I did do it 3 times, with the correct horn signature at each step, and it repeated exactly. I have to add more information, going through my fairly good 11 years of records. Purchase date of car August 2009. Ok, I am 76 years old so you will have to forgive me for forgetting 2 TPMS events. On 1/8/13, at 67070 miles I had the dealer replace one right rear tire, and they installel a new TPMS. I was getting a tire light warning, with all tires up to pressure. The TPMS cost was $75 for diagnostic and labor, plus $83.73 for one TPMS repair kit. I supplied the new tire from TireRack. I guess I'm unique, I replace my tires as they wear out, one at a time. I have never gotten a bad Michelin tire from Tirerack. So then later, the next year, I got the tire light again. This time I took it to Pauls Tires in Loudon, Tn, and he determined which tire it was and charged me $15 to install a new TPMS sensor I bought from rockauto. I have lost my record of what I paid at rockauto that time. So I'm just going to buy 2 new TPMS sensors and have Paul install them on the right 2 wheels.

Ok, my TPMS sensor arrived and I ran the procedure. I ran it 3 times and got the same result. The left 2 tires beeped the horn (tires 1 and 4 in sequence) , but the right 2 tires (tires 2 and 3 in sequence) did not beep the horn. Does that mean I have 2 sensors that aren't responding?

My TPMS sensor should arrive from Amazon tomorrow. ?

Does this procedure work on all cars, including my 2010 FFH? It is not in my owners manual.

Geopilot, Thanks for your response. Do you think this less expensive TPMS19 will do the job? That would save me probably an hour of letting pressure out of tires and bringing them back up to pressure. There is a local tire shop that I had forgotten about, but 6 years ago he installed one new tire valve pressure sensor for me for $15. I think I had bought it at rock auto. Before that, just before we were leaving for a drive trip to Colorado (1200 miles) , the warning light came on, and sure enough there was a puncture in the right rear tire, reading 20 psi, which I fixed at home. As long as the puncture is in the tread zone, I have a 100% success rate at fixing them, with available tools that I'm sure you guys are aware of. So that event which helped me avoid a highway failure makes me a believer in keeping these sensors active.

MD, thanks for your response. Questions: 1. Can the batteries be replaced or do you have to buy a whole new tire pressure sensor? $24+ at rock auto per tire. 2. Can I determine which tire it is by dropping the pressure to 15 psi in each tire, one at a time, and see which three give a warning signal of a low pressure, so it would be the one that didn't get that response? I have a 7hp compressor in my garage. But I can't change a tire. 3. Can I just turn the whole option off since I check my tire pressures regularly?

I am getting this display error, intermittently, but solidly after I drive 20 miles. The tire air pressures are all 34-35 psi. Once it comes on, it stays on all day, but is gone the next morning until I drive 20 miles. Anyone know how to fix this without going to the dealer?

This might explain part of the situation, you don't have an alternator.

As it gets colder out on a non-hybrid ICE (Internal combustion Engine) vehicle, the engine starting amps required of the 12 volt battery go up. It might take 40 amps to start an ICE on a summer day, but 400 amps on a cold day in Alaska. You don't have that kind of drain on your 12 volt battery because your 270 volt HVB starts the engine. That's all I know. My 2010 FFH stays the garage and I never had a cold temperature issue with it in 150K miles, and 11 years. It still runs great. I would keep an eye on the coolant levels under the hood, make sure they are at least at the minimum level or higher. Other higher tech members here can tell you more.

Did you take the heat shield off? Is it the upper O2 sensor? Penetrating oil and at least 14 inches of leverage should do the job, once the heat shield is off.

I got 4.7 years and 112,000 miles on my first battery, the second one that I got from the dealer is just over 5 years now, with no problems. The first one I added distilled water to several times, and charged it just before I took it to the dealer for a new one, $146 installed. I'm at 149K miles now. It's our second car now, getting fewer hours per year.

Interesting. Good diagnostics guys. Did you get your money back on the first new TB? I can clear the codes with my OBDII code reader. I wonder what was wrong with the first new TB, I guess we will never know. It could have been one of several quality related things.

Denny, Find a friend with a diagnostic code reader, read the codes, and get back to us with the code number. I have an Innova 3030g, got it for about $55 new online. It does engine, chassis and body codes, which includes brakes and tire pressure sensors. The engine doesn't need to be running to read the codes, just have the key turned to on. I had similar behavior on 2010 FFH, and it was code 2112, throttle body sticking shut. I fixed it for free by cleaning the inside of the throttle body which was coated with black carbon, at 112K miles. Now at 148K, no problems.