VonoreTn

Yeah, the CPS should have been covered on the 5 year 60K mile warranty, based on your receipt. A Motorcraft cam position sensor is $40 at your local AA store. My code reader has paid for itself many times over.

I agree with BBF. 40 mpg is still quite decent for an FFH. My average for 10 years (100% record of all gasoline that has gone into the car, 149K miles now) is a hair under 40 mpg. I can get high 40's on local runs at speeds in the 50's, but the worst mileage for me is the short runs up to the tennis courts and back, where the engine barely gets up to temp. Side note, I checked yesterday, my original brake pads on the front have 8 mm of thickness left, I call that almost like new. The back ones have worn from 7 mm down to 4 to 5 mm, not enough to justify new pads. My FFH has been a very low maintenance vehicle, my favorite also.

Sounds like my 2010 FFH, with 147K miles on it. It still gets 40 mpg, day in and out. I don't know of a way to rate the HVB, I guess if it charges and discharges too quickly, that would be a sign of aging. I had the computer code fix done, that improved it's mpg a lot. I assume the resale on mine would be so low that I will just keep driving it and saving money on gas. It definitely is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. Original brake pads, all wheels. A nice feature for COVID is we can order a lunch, and eat it in the car, we just leave the engine on, and have full air conditioning, with the motor coming on maybe 1 minute every 10 minutes to charge the battery, no compromise to the AC cooling which has an electric motor driven compressor. Doing that with a non-hybrid would be so wasteful and inefficient, having to keep the ICE on to run the compressor all that time, while the ICE generates thousands of BTU's of heat, for the radiator to deal with. The FFH is like an electric car but with a gasoline engine backup to keep the battery charged. After a 20 minute lunch, I might have knocked 3 miles off my 600 range, well worth it.

I did get a "stop safely now" message at 112K miles, almost exactly 5 years ago. It popped a code P2112, but it was just a sticking throttle plate issue, which I solved myself by cleaning the throttle body interior. I'm at 147K miles now, no issues since then, and since I got the HVB saving bad computer code fixed by my good friend Milan-oh, it has been getting about 41 mpg lately.

Tires and an $80 camber kit are in the zone of normal maintenance. 38 mpg is not that bad, not an indicator that your HVB is bad. What other non-hybrid will give you 38 mpg? Will it go into electric mode below 47 mph on a flat run? If not you may need the one line of code rewrite to update the factory built in 10 year HVB unloader instruction. A dealer won't do it, you need to contact key forum people, who can help you.

I got both of those codes 3 years ago, but they disappeared, with no issues, you might find my thread if you search those codes. My brake system is the original rotors, pads, everything brakes original, at 10.5 years, and 147K miles. Same 12 volt battery as well, now with 32K miles on it, (second 12 volt battery).

Three years later same 12 volt battery, Car still runs perfectly. I had the 10 year computer code one line of code adjustment made by an expert forum member recently, to restore normal battery only driving below 47 mph, thank you Jack W. I'm getting 50 mpg regularly on local rural driving.

What were your symptoms?

Yeah! What Milan said above! He fixed my 2010 FFH in 20 minutes with his lap top computer! It has significantly improved the performance and mpg! And he got his instruction from Allen84, also above. The only change that was made was to refresh to the previous code, so it would continue in the same driving commands that it had been using for the previous 10 years. Footnote, that 12 volt battery they replaced is not the starter battery. It is just a 12 volt battery to accommodate all the 12 volt stuff that is on any non-hybrid Fusion. The engine is started by the built into the engine high voltage electric motor, which is why it is so quiet and seamless, as it turns on and off the engine while driving. Other posters here know a lot more than I do about this high tech hybrid system. The dealer replaced my 12 Volt battery at 112K miles, $146, including an oil change. I had to add distilled water to it a couple of times to get that much life out of it. My high voltage nickel metal hydride battery is still performing like new at 147K miles. I still love this car. It has saved me $10,540 in fuel cost versus the 2000 Ford Explorer I had before for 10 years that I loved, based on a full record and comparable miles.

I had the same airbag replacement procedure on my 2010 FFH, and I do not have any rattles. This is not an endorsement but I have been going to the same dealer where I bought the FFH ten years ago for all oil changes and normal maintenance, like wheel alignment, new 12 volt battery, etc. with no issues. Jacky Jones in Sweetwater, Tennessee. The only non-maintenance issue I have had in 10 years was one O2 sensor, but my engine warning light caught it and my OBD2 code reader told me which O2 sensor, and I replaced it myself for $72. Oh yeah one other, I got a code for throttle sticking, but I cleaned the throttle body myself which totally fixed it. Same procedure, running symptoms while driving, engine light, and code reader issue identified. Neither involved the dealer.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's worth checking. Have a free tire alignment check done. Camber is not a big drag, but toe in or out is a huge drag. A typical tire generates 250 lbs of side force for every degree of angle. I'm a retired automotive engineer, I've measured this stuff on sophisticated dynamic tire stands. That angle is the same useful angle you create when you want to steer your car, it takes hundreds of pounds of force to turn a car thus the angle is very useful when you are turning, but if you have a residual angle when you are trying to go straight and get good mileage, it can be a huge drag. Ideally you want zero toe while driving straight. Usually they put in a small toe in , because when you hit the brakes, it spreads the tires toward toe-out, so a tiny bit of toe in is OK. Just get it checked, can't hurt. Also, jack your car up one wheel at a time and make sure the tires rotate freely without brake drag or bad wheel bearing drag, with the brake off, and in neutral. Be sure you are running about 36 psi in your tires. It drops when the cold weather starts, plus air leaks past the rims when you hit chuckholes, doesn't mean you have a leak, but you do have to add air occasionally. I would be very disappointed if I ever got only 35 mpg, under any conditions on my 2010 FFH. I have kept 100% fuel fillup records for 10 years on this car, and the only way to get mileage that low would be to go uphill into a wind for an extended period (which I have done). Head or tail winds are worth plus or minus at least 2 mpg.

More background on your specific car would be useful, like the model year for starters, mileage, etc. I just drove 5 hours 2 weeks ago to have a forum member reset the engine computer code on mine, to restore low speed electric only mode. What a difference! He changed one line of code. The mileage went up at least 2 mpg, maybe more around town.

Thanks Allen84, Milan_OH fixed my software, exactly as you described. He set it to zero years, the top option. I was in the area he lived and he fixed it like in 10 minutes ! As soon as we drove it afterward it stayed in electric mode even going slightly uphill away from his house!. My FFH is running so much better now, goes into electric mode much easier and more often than it seems like it ever did before. My highway mileage is still 41 mpg, but I expect my around town mileage will significantly improve because without the electric mode, it had dropped down to like 35 mpg. Amazing the difference one line of software code can make! Allen, you have raised a lot of peoples standard of living, good job!

This brand new issue is very consistent and repeatable. I need one of you experts to tell me what is wrong. I am pulling no DTC codes. No engine lights. It just started 2 days ago. Normally the car will go into electric drive only mode going down a slight or major hill, under 47 mph, if the high voltage battery HVB is above 30% level approximately. Now the HVB just keeps charging, all the way to the top and it will NOT go into electric drive mode, going down a hill, even at 30 mph, UNLESS I ride the brake pedal. As soon as I let off of the brake pedal then engine starts up. 144K miles on it, 10 years old, never did this before. Does anyone know what is going on? Is there a failed sensor or something?

Hi Jack, I used to drag race at the Milan dragstrip, going back to 1968. Mine works fine at idle at 135K miles. It might be that your electric condenser/radiator fan isn't working, so vehicle speed generated wind is needed to keep the condenser head pressure down. Open the hood at idle on a hot day and see if the condenser electric fan is running.

I agree completely with eGuru above. And beyond that, NEVER buy any car at an auction, or sight unseen on line. My suggestion below is not an attempt to diagnosis your car, just some observational remarks based on my limited experience. Since the stuck throttle body code is in there, and the manifold pressure is related to the throttle plate status at idle, I would take a look at the TB, to see if it is as coated with black carbon as mine was at 110K miles, since to clean it with carb cleaner is free. My free cleanup fixed the code P2112, which was killing the engine as I drove. (before/after photo below). After that my conclusion was that the Ford software is designed to slightly over react to any sticky throttle issues, stuck shut or open, since the consequences could be a safety issue. You don't need to take the TB assembly apart, just clean the throttle plate area on both sides. Carefully, everything is soft aluminum in the area don't scratch anything with a steel implement.

Mine is still working fine at 146K miles, lots of power, 42 mpg rural driving. Lower on freeway (70 mph plus), or lots of very short trips.

My 2010 FFH definitely has a cam chain. Cam belts were a bad idea that is going away on newer model engines. If you have a cam chain, don't worry about it, it is good for 300K+ miles. As for the one waterpump belt that you do have (or at least I do on my 2010) check for cracks on the inside of the belt in the rib area. Since the late nineties, accessory drive belts have been made of EPDM rubber, which is about 3 times more durable than the neoprene belts before that. There are still some neoprene aftermarket belts so be careful when buying an after market belt. I know Gates belts are all EPDM. Even if there are some rib cracks, if there are no chunks of rib missing between the cracks, the belt is still good. Changing the 4 spark plugs should be done about every 80K miles. You can do it yourself. I waited until 121K to do mine, and the steel based plugs were like frozen in the aluminum head, to the point I had to soak all of them with penetrating oil over night to get them out. If you try to torque them out, be aware that a broken plug stuck in the head is really hard to get out.. Try to stay under 40 ft lbs to get them out.

Are you talking about the battery level meter on the right? If so, that doesn't look bad to me, I just drove mine and it is on the bottom of the H, but I have seen it as low as in the middle of the range. It would be interesting to monitor our actual high voltage battery DC volt level, but I assume tapping into that would be difficult. I find that after driving for awhile, like 20 minutes, it is more likely to drop into electric mode at 45 or below. I don't think it will go into that mode with a cold engine, heat for the driver and for emissions function from a warm engine gets computer priority over full electric drive. Even without that mode you still get the benefit of better FE, because the electric motor helps the ICE supply power, even at 50 mph and above. You can witness that on your system info screen while driving. If your FE is still high 30's or low 40's, I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for your detailed feedback. I have 144K miles on my 2010, and I notice a little bit of what you are talking about. But my FE is holding at about 39 mpg average, except when I make a lot of short trips, like within our development up to the tennis courts. When I make longer trips averaging 50-60 mph it still gets over 40. Sustained highway 70+ mph never was over 40 without at tailwind. Keep us informed as to if your think the PCM re-program has worked to any extent worth the rest of us requesting it. Good to know there is a TSB on this issue. I have complete FE data from every fillup for the last 10 years, if anyone is interested in the Excel graphs. And I only did fillups.

" Code: P0AA4 - Hybrid/EV Battery Negative Contactor Circuit Stuck Closed Wouldn't that first line above explain the whole problem? Stuck relay? I'm guessing that contactor opens and closes depending on if you are in motor or generator mode. I have no idea where it is or how to fix it. I agree with Lolder above, time to take it to a dealer if it is drivable, if not have it towed. Don't give up . In 140,000 miles, my 100% gas fillup records show I have saved $10127 in gas cost versus the Explorer I had before the Fusion. You may have to cash some your gas savings in to fix this problem.

I need to delete some quick dials I don't use anymore so that I can add more. There is a limit on how many I can have. But there does not seem to be a way to delete one on my 2010 FFH. Anyone know the trick? I can't find anything in the owners manual.

Hook a code reader up to it, see what codes are pulled. My code reader has paid for itself many times. I recommend this one because it does more than engine codes, also ABS, DTC, and emissions ~$48 http://tiny.cc/l4jn2y

If you are talking about a core plug coolant heater, I would let the dealer do it. That is a tough place to access. I put a new upper O2 sensor above the cat on mine, and that was difficult enough to access. Good luck.