VonoreTn

Thanks, very helpful. I will get under the car today and see if I can pull that right rear wheel inboard, it is half an inch outward at the bottom of the rim, based on a vertical level and a ruler. I calculate that's about 2 degrees of negative camber. Someone said doing the eccentric bolt hole adjustment impacts the rear wheel toe, I'll try to figure out if that would happen. If that lwr arm bushing isn't in-line with the virtual axle line, I can see how that could happen.

I have am having the same problem. Did you ever figure out how to delete a Quick Dial entry? I can't figure it out.

Thanks Drolds, I am just wondering how that rear lower arm eccentric bolt works, just loosen it and then rotate it?

Can the rear wheel camber be adjusted at home with the rear of the car jacked up? I do my own brake pads and rotors, but have never adjusted rear camber.

I was told by my Ford Dealer that I have -2 degrees of camber on my right rear wheel, and -.8 degrees on the right front. And since the front camber requires special "front camber adjuster parts", the cost would be $291.70 + tax for the front camber, plus more for the rear camber adjustment. I am pretty sure that I can measure much the same thing with a level held vertically across the 18.3" rim. When I do on the right rear wheel, I get 5/8" inward offset on the top of the rim, which would be a 1.96 degree negative camber on the right rear, while the car is sitting inside my garage which I assume is pretty flat. Being that easy to measure I am wondering if I couldn't just do the rear myself, by rotating the lower inner bushing, but I have no idea what to do on the front, or if I should bother. Any experience in this area would be welcome. Attached is the dealer's data chart, with my measurement data added. I can't measure toe, which from my experience is much more important than camber for tire wear and vehicle drag.

I went through a similar scenario, the engine would shut down while driving. Eventually it pulled a P2112 code. Sticking throttlebody (TB). What is going on is the TB is not cable operated, it is drive by wire. As such, its computer control is programmed to over-react to the throttle sticking, even if it is sticking closed. You can see that if if it stuck open (too high a current for the servo motor to shut), that could be a bad event, so the programmers error on the safe side and any high current to the throttle plate servo motor is reacted to. And it is easy for the plate to stick closed, if there is a lot of black carbon on the walls, where the throttle plate contacts when closed. All I did, at 115K miles, was take the TB out, and clean it good with carb cleaner and a straight cut popsicle stick. You do not want to use a steel tool to clean it because the TB and plate are both aluminum, and could easily be damaged with a steel implement. The TB comes off easy enough, my biggest problem was disconnecting wire connector. You know how every connector is different and you have to stare it all sides until you find a tab to pull or push, and it comes off easily. I finally figured it out and it came off easily. Getting it off the engine otherwise was pretty simple, remove 4 bolts. Attached is a before and after picture. After another 40K miles, no problems. That fixed the event and code, free. Do not take the side cover off like I did, not necessary. I was just curious.

Perhaps the thermostat is stuck open. If so the engine temperature will be about 160F max instead of 190F constant. I don't even know if the FFH uses a conventional thermostat, but that happened to me several times years ago on a conventional car. And in really cold weather, the heater would be challenged.

I replaced my 12 volt battery 45K miles ago, no problems. I made sure I had the right battery, let the dealer do it, ~$125 installed.

If you are making short runs, be aware that the electric mode won't kick in until the engine is warmed up and the thermostat is operating. And it just got cold where you are at.

There is a place in Buford, Georgia that rebuilds your ABS module for around $100, plus shipping and gives you a life time warranty on it. I have used him twice with 100% success. Once on a 2002 Corvette, once on a 2003 BMW. The ABS module on most cars is a 10 minute removal and re-install. It will cost a lot more to buy a new ABS module and have the same removal and install done by a mechanic or a dealer. The place is: MyAirbags.com. But I would get a free diagnostic at your dealer service center first, it may be something else, like your parking brake locked up or something trivial. If you ever drove your car accidently with the parking brake on, that can wear it out quickly.

When it is running, are there any engine warning lights on?

Does the green engine on light come on? Usually there is no noise when you start the car, just the green light in my car, lower right side of instrument panel.

Maybe the rear parking brake needs adjusting?

You will get better mileage in recirculate, in humid climates, as much as 40% of the air conditioning load is taking humidity out of the "fresh" air. On recirculate, once the humidity is taken out there is less load on the AC system. As for your problem, you give too many describers of the smell, you need to pin that down a little. It may be as simple as a minor air leak in your ventilation system to the engine compartment. I shouldn't say minor, because in automotive design of cars, that is a serious shortfall. Your dealer should be all over that problem, not dismissive. I worked at a major auto company in engineering for 33 years.

Is it better or worse in recirculation mode versus fresh air mode?

I force cycled my purge valve a few times with 12 volts and the code went away, 3000 miles ago. Must have been stuck. I also sprayed some silicone in inlet side

You don't have to find something on a lot. You can order exactly what you want from the factory if you are willing to wait a few weeks. That's what I did on my 2010, which still runs like new.

Regarding the 12 volt battery, I had to replace my original battery at 111,679 miles. I had the dealer put in the same battery which cost $146.17 installed with tax. I had no issues with the battery up to that point, and was even able to drive it to the dealer, after a final charge to the original battery, just to get it started. What is your expectation of a better battery? As a retired automotive engineer, with no experience on cooled seats, I will speculate that adding cooled seats as an after market upgrade will be very difficult and expensive. Just a guess. Same for adding navigation. But I am eager to hear comments from people with more experience with both upgrades.

What's BLIS and CTA?

No there was no indication of thread damage. I think everything worked out. I have a friend who runs a tire and chassis garage, and he says he would be out of business without PB blaster penetrating oil. It does stuff at a microscopic level, over a period of time, that is very useful. I have read reviews that Liquid Wrench is just as good, but I am not an expert. I think both are better than WD40, which also works at some level. After applying penetrating oil consider running the engine to put load on the plug threads from the combustion impact, which perhaps at a microscopic level, that will allow the penetrating oil to spread through molecule size passages in the area. I would avoid exceeding 50 foot pounds, because a spark plug structurally is just a thin steel tube with non structural porcelain in it.

I had the local Ford dealer replace mine for $147 including labor in June 2015, at 112K miles.

Somehow it's in Canadian mode? Under Setup, Vehicle settings on the left side of the instrument cluster, at autolamps, you can set the headlights to stay on a bunch of choices up to 180 seconds (3 minutes). Try changing it to 10 seconds. Page 38 in the Owners Guide. Or it could just be a stuck closed relay, under the hood, but starting on page 236 of the Owners Guide, I'm not seeing any headlight relays.

Looking at the log, I wonder why they list the new O2 sensor at 97K miles as "no charge"? Maybe they had the 100K extended warranty? Also, you have to wonder if the garage didn't mess something up with the brakes on either 9/8/11 or 9/16/11, that resulted in a large repair bill on 9/22/11.

I think it would be a good buy, but I am prejudiced. I have a 2010 Fusion hybrid with 134K miles on it. I have only spent $70 on non-maintenance repairs so far. The original brake pads are only lightly worn, given that 95% of the braking is done in regen mode, sending all that wasted friction heat of normal brakes back into the high voltage batteries. Based on Taxi fleets of these same Nickel metal hydride batteries in California, the batteries will last indefinitely, the only failures on the fleet with an average mileage of 400K were those that were in accidents and damaged. I did have to clean the throttle body once, I did it myself, not hard to do. The engine light codes plus feedback from this forum told me exactly what I needed to do. I still prefer to drive this car over our newer 2015 C-Max, which is also a great car. I will never buy another car that is not a hybrid, and Ford makes good hybrids. They are the car of the future.

No, I have not experienced that situation at 134,000 miles and 8 years. Could it just be the weather, and the IC needs to run until it is up to temperature? My mileage drops a little in cold weather. You would think with the AC off in the winter it would be better than summer, but it has never been. My average is 39.49 mpg for the 8 years. I could probably get it over 40 if I drove more conservatively, but I enjoy punching the throttle now and then, because it feels good. The computer apparently notices when I do that and punishes me with lower mpg. I keep a complete gas consumed record since I bought it, every fillup. The computer estimate is pretty close to my actual, if I zero it at fillup. I can go up a mild hill (guessing 5%) in electric mode, with a warm engine, up to about 8 mph, then the IC kicks in. Being in electric mode really doesn't make that much difference in mpg, since the electricity is always helping the IC, even above the 47 mph electric cutout speed, on a flat road.