VonoreTn

A new O2 sensor should only cost you about $40 at Rockauto.com. Check it out. I got one there and put it in myself. You don't need a special tool if you take the heat shield off, which is not that hard to do. Then you can use an open end wrench. I think it was just 3 small bolts to get the heat shield off. The code that goes with the engine light should also tell you which O2 sensor it is, upstream or downstream. An autoparts store might read your codes but not tell you which one it is, since they'd like to sell you both. Mine was the upstream which is more accessible than the downstream on my car. That was 60K miles ago. I have 133K miles on it now. I don't think a bad oxygen sensor will leave you sitting on the side of the road, but your mixture data in the computer will be wrong, and the computer may have you burning richer or leaner than you should. I got a good code reader on Amazon, an Innova 3030 that reads powertrain, body, chassis, and miscellaneous warning light codes for all OBDII cars from 1996 on. That includes airbags and ABS as well. It will pay for itself with your first self repair. It's also a good idea to plug your CEL code into google with your vehicle model and year, and the word forum, and you will get a lot of help on line.

I had all the same alarming symptoms and codes, I fixed it for free, by cleaning out the throttle body. There was a thread I left regarding this fix on this website including pictures, but it seems to be gone now. The key is to clean the black carbon off, especially at the close to closed position, where it can get stuck. Use a strong carb/TB cleaner, be sure it doesn't damage plastic or rubber parts, and use a flat cut popsicle stick to scrap with, to avoid damaging the aluminum TB inner diameter. The throttle body can be removed very easily, it is accessible at the top, much easier than cleaning a carburetor, back in the day... It has been working fine for over 2 years since this cleaning.

All I can add it that I bought the first level Fusion Hybrid in 2009, when they first came out with it, and after 8 years it has been the most reliable car I have ever owned. I have spent about $100 on non-maintenance repairs, one O2 sensor that I installed myself based on the engine light code ($72), and a new drivers inside door handle ($22) that I installed. I'm glad I didn't spend $1800 for the 100K mile warranty, because it now has 133K miles on it. I do have navigation, which is nice. My fuel tank is specified at 17 gallons, but I usually fill up at about 15 gallons down. Which gives me about a 600 mile range. 12 years ago I bought my Daugher a 2005 Escape, and it did have a lot of issues. I had much fewer issues on our 2000 Explorer, that lasted 10 years and 190K miles.

Based on that I just drove the FFH 27 miles this morning and got 50.2 mpg round trip, have no symptoms of any problems, have no engine lights, just got a clean FFH health report from Dearborn, I am going to ignore this last batch of codes. Also I checked my cannister purge valve and it appears to be working normally. Keep in mind most home obd2 readers only do powertrain codes. Mine happens to do chassis, body and undefined codes as well. If I ever have a serious brake issue or electrical issue I will take appropriate action. I have no intention of spending any money on a dealership diagnosis with no symptoms. The FFH is not my long trip vehicle anymore, the 2015 C-Max is, which just got 51.8 mpg on an 83 mile local round trip this afternoon. Hybrids seem to like warm weather, and suburban boulevards as opposed to high speed highways. I don't see any dots to connect that I need a new 12 volt battery.

No. The regen is working based on the charging arrow pointing up everytime I touch the brake pedal. And I've never had any brake transition issues. But our 2010 FFH was definitely built before Oct. 4. 2010 Maybe the dealer did it while it was on warranty, I'll check with them. Thanks.

The battery reads 10.6 volts at 100 amp load, vehicle off, no key. I am pretty sure there is no load from the vehicle that would put close to that many amps on the 12 volt battery, without the engine, generator, and high voltage battery available to support it. When my first battery finally failed at 111K miles, it would drop to 7 volts at 100 amp, but even that was not an issue to drive it to the dealer. All I had to do was charge the battery, start it, and once the engine was running, it read 13.6 all the way to the dealer. Right now there are no codes or engine lights on, but the C1018 and the U3003 did reoccur once, since I erased them the first time 2 days ago.

Lee, I meant to say green, I even took a picture of it green with my phone. I'll edit my error. I'll check the battery with my 100 amp load tester later today.

Thanks for your responses. My 12 volt battery reads 12.17 before startup after 5 hours in the garage. It jumps to 13.72 when I start it, before the engine runs. The battery was purchased at a dealer on 6/17/15, and has 21,000 miles on it. The green dot is still showing on top the battery. My first 12 volt battery lasted 111,670 miles. I don't think there is anything wrong with this one, although I'd rather it read about 12.3. I erased all the codes, they all went away except the P2450, 1 event comes back. But the engine light does not come on yet. It read P2450 (3) before, I assume my NNOVA 3030 obd2 code reader is telling me that was 3 events before. I checked my cannister purge valve, which I read had some issues in 2009. With the wire and hose disconnected, I feel no vacuum on it, so I assume it is properly closed, as it supposed to be with the wire disconnected. Nice to find out it is easily accessible for test, up high next to the throttle body. Is there a trick to start the ICE for testing when it is just sitting in the garage? I had to put it in gear and give it some gas, with the brake on, which worked once but not twice. I can find nothing about the C1018 code. One person on obd-codes.com advised me it is a hybrid issue and I should see the dealer. But the code hasn't come back yet.

I erased them, the engine light is out now after 10 miles, but I still get a P2450 (1) code now instead of P2450 (3) code. The other 2 codes are gone. I think the (3) was a counter in my Nnova 3030 OBD2 code reader that records the number of events.

The light just came on for the first time today. Just the light that is shaped like an engine. How do I interpret and repair these issues? I have an Innova 3030 code reader that does powertrain, chassis and body codes. The 5 minute average instantaneous mpg seemed a little low on a familiar road course, maybe 39 versus 42. No other symptoms while driving for an hour today with the engine light on. I have not tried to erase the codes yet. Does anyone have any familiarity with these codes on this vehicle?

As soon as I sent that, I saw it was km's and not miles, but I figured no one would notice. But you did, good to know there are some smart guys watching this forum ! Yeah, I left him in outer space, not close enough to earth to orbit earth, so not a good scenario. Do you realize we went to the moon and back in 1969? That was before hand-held calculators, and way before personal computers. I theorize that no one else has ever done it because the odds against a safe return for all, are pretty high, there was a lot of good luck in that venture. Plus the cost to do it today is high, and they did not find any gold. If they had found a vein of gold, the trip might have paid for itself.

If you do the math, and if you could find the right road to take, you could have driven to the moon and back.

My 12 volt battery finally went out in June 2015 at 111,700 miles, after almost 6 years. The car would not start, so I started it by putting a 20 amp charger on the 12 volt battery for 20 minutes, then drove it 20 miles to my dealer, where they installed a new Hybrid battery for $146. I did have to add distilled water to it at around 60K miles previously. I count that as normal maintenance. So far I have only spent $77 on an O2 sensor which I installed myself, for non-maintenance expenses, . Still at 130K miles, it is the most reliable car I have ever owned. It still gets 40 mpg consistently.

Did you zero out the codes after cleaning? You can do that with a code reader or by temporarily disconnecting the 12 volt battery. Glad you got it fixed regardless.

You don't have to remove the TPS, you just disconnect one electrical connection. You also don't have to open up the area that houses the gears and circuit board like I did, as mine looked like it was new after 6 years. All you need to do is use some carb cleaner that dissolves carbon, and clean the layer of black off the inside of the TB. The most difficult part for me was to figure out exactly what part of that electrical connector to push/pull before it easily came apart. You would have to do that anyway if you bought a new TB. My excuse is that I'm a retired mechanical engineer, not an electrical engineer

I had the limp thing going on and an engine code, which was TB sticking. I fixed it myself for free by cleaning the inside of the throttle body. See: http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/14043-throttle-body-stuck-shut-2010-ffh/. I would recommend it be down every 90K miles. Not that hard to do.

It's doing it again. It goes up in auto mode but not down. If I play with it a lot, like run it all the way up manually and hold the button after it is at the top, then do the same thing running it down and holding it, the auto down will work, over and over. But then the next day when I try it, back to auto up only, no auto down. I figure the high current that goes through the electric motor once you hit the window travel stops might have something to do with temporarily fixing it. But it is never a permanent fix. Not a big issue, just annoying.

After almost 7 years and 125,000 miles with a 2010 FFH, I have spent $77 on non-maintenance repairs, (I replaced an 02 sensor that the engine light and code reader indicated was bad). This is the most reliable, low maintenance car I have ever owned, plus the highest mpg car I have ever owned. Average MPG based on all gas fill-ups is 39.7. Usually we get over 40 mpg, but we have been on some long heavy trips, going for hundreds of miles up hill and into the wind. I have saved $9400 in gas versus the previous Explorer I had, which I loved also. The FFH brake pads are like new since most stops are done in regen mode, and the engine air-cleaner never needs a new filter, it is a lifetime design. I am not worried about the high voltage battery, they last like 400,000 miles based on the same batteries in Excape Taxi fleets. That's further than here to the moon. The car still performs as good as the day I bought it. I think this type of hybrid, or 100% electric will be the way of the future. Our FFH gets better mileage on the highway than our second car a 2015 C-Max (~ 40 versus ~37 mpg). But the C-Max does better around town (~45 versus ~42 mpg). We like them both, and we will probably never get a plain old ICE car again (we are old ;-).

Any update on that information? If the HV battery lasts that long, that's longer than most engines go without expensive repairs.

I'm at 126K miles, and 7 years this August. So far for repairs I have spent $77 on an oxygen sensor, and that's it. The OBDII code reader told me which sensor to replace. Normal maintenance is an oil change every 10K miles, and new tires once. Original brake pads, which still have a lot of life left in them. This is the most reliable car I have ever had. I did have to clean my throttle body once, after getting an engine light and code that told me the throttle plate was sticking. But being a retired mechanical engineer, I cleaned it myself, with carb cleaner and a popsicle stick, it was not that hard. Definitely easier than working on carburetors back in the day. I have saved $9400 in gas, compared to the Explorer I used to have, which only got 20 mpg average. I keep complete fill up data, mileage, costs and gallons of gas.

My Son-in-law just bought a Tesla S60 (60 kwh), of course he wanted the S P85D but it was all he could afford, $73K with a 200 mile range. He let me drive it. It has a beta version of full time drive control. While he was driving it was going around corners steering itself, and braking to leave a constant time distance to the next vehicle. Scared the heck out of me, because there were cars coming the other way on a narrow road. At one point the computer warned him to put his hands back on the wheel. It is kind of wide, it barely fits in an 8 foot wide garage door, with an inch buffer of rubber seal on both sides of the door. Like just an inch of clearance to the mirrors on both sides. He is in love with it, but he hasn't taken a road trip yet, where the limited range will probably be an issue. But driving it makes you realize that the internal combustion engine will not be around for long as the primary mode of operation. Too complicated, dirty, slow, noisy, dangerous (gasoline is a hazardous chemical), and unsafe. All that is needed is a breakthrough in charge time, or battery capacity, and it's game over for the ICE.

We saved $10K by not buying a Lincoln MKZ hybrid, and bought a new 2015 C-Max. My wife likes the higher, softer seats versus the 2010 FFH, and she also likes the keyless start, and auto rear power hatch door. So I inherited the 2010 FFH. So far I have concluded that the FFH gets better mileage than the C-max, especially at higher speeds. As a generalization, I get about 40 mpg, if there is no wind or steady grade going up, at 69 mph. At 70 mph it just drops under 40. With a tail wind or gentle drop in altitude, I can easily exceed 40 mpg at 70. Around town the FFH gets about 42. The C-Max struggles to stay in the mid 30 mpg range at 70, but does great below 65 mph, maybe better than the FFH, too early to tell. At 125,000 miles the FFH has only required one upper O2 sensor (I replaced for $77), and a throttle body cleaning (free) which did kick in the wrench light and a code P2112 (throttle body sticking shut), but that is totally addressed with the TB cleaning. See my post at: http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/14043-throttle-body-stuck-shut-2010-ffh/ I also had to replace 2 tire pressure sensors (TPS), but I am calling that maintenance, since they are only designed for 100K miles. They have a battery in them that eventually goes dead, and you can't replace the battery. They cost about $38 (Schrader brand) at Rockauto.com, and I have a tire dealer near me who will diagnosis and replace them for $15 a tire, including resetting the FFH computer. Two of my original TPS's are still working. My brake pads are all almost like new, since I practice hitting the brakes early, which means my braking is usually done in regen mode, not with the brake pads. I did replace the 4 spark plugs at 121K miles. I recommend replacing them at 100K just for the reason that they tend to freeze up, (galvanic action, steel in aluminum head), and if one breaks off in the head it would be very expensive to get it out. I had difficulty breaking them loose, but a 2 hour soak with PB blaster at the base of the plugs did the trick. The plug gaps were just out of spec on the high side but still quite functional.

I'm now at 124k miles, no engine lights, and still getting good mileage. I changed the plugs at 121k miles . Lolder in the above post was right, it was not easy getting the spark plugs out. I had to soak the base of the plugs with CB blaster for an hour. We bought a C-Max for my Wife's car. She likes the auto opening rear tailgate door, keyless start, and the higher seats for comfort and for her back on long trips. It does not seem to get quite as good of mpg as the FFH. I haven't hit 40 mpg on a tank yet. But I will give it time.

That's not acceptable. Drive to your favorite Dealer in the afternoon when they are least busy, and ask them to write up a service order to fix your leak. They don't have to do it today. You need to get it on the record in the warranty period. Could be worth hundreds of dollars. I am positive I could do this at either of the closest Ford dealers to me. Ford will work with you but you may have to be assertive on this.