VonoreTn

When you say 3 years old, is it out of the the 3/36 warranty? Water on the floor could be an expensive ventilation system seam leak, that you need to get taken care of on the warranty. If you took it in for that during the warranty period you should be covered.

How do you like it so far? Any repairs?

Good advice. Not that hard to do, maybe even put some anti-seize on them at 50-60 k miles. Don't get any near the electrode.

I torqued them to 17 ft lbs, the spark plug box said max of 14 ft lbs in an aluminum head, but 17 felt about right.

I got them out, after soaking the top of the thread area with PB blaster for 2 hours. The gap range is from .054 to .057", a little above the spec. of .049-.053". The new NGK LTR5GP plugs are all at .042" gap. I guess I have to open them up to .049. Apparently you can run your plugs for a long time these days.

Hi Lee, I didn't get them out, because they never stopped turning at 40-50 ft lbs. It was a jerky turn, like reach a threshold, then it would drop from 50 ft lbs to 40 ft lbs, but right back to 50 ft lbs for the next increment. The jerk is scary, you think you broke something or stripped the hex each jerk. I think right now, I'm going to tighten them back up, and try just one again when the engine is hot. The aluminum head might expand enough with heat to make a difference. But in answer to your question, I think if I get them out, I will put some anti-seize thread lubricant on the new ones. These plugs are not like you and I are used to, the thread engagement is very long, like just under an inch, which is probably part of the situation. A lot of steel against aluminum, for the last 6 years, could be some galvanic action. This situation might be a rationale to replace the plugs at lower mileage and time, even though based on performance, they are still functioning fine. The manual says to replace plugs at 100K miles.

I'm trying to replace my spark plugs at 121K miles, which I thought would be an easy job, but I find they are all turning at about 40-50 ft lbs, and not getting easier. I'm used to a plug maybe starting hard but then getting easier to turn. I think that is in the range of breaking the plug hex, so I stopped after about 1 turn on each of them. The engine was cold, maybe I should do it with a hot engine? I guess we all can envision the subsequent problems if I break or strip a plug down that deep hole, going into the aluminum head.

Ok, I took the switch apart. Not hard, just had to remove one 7 mm hex screw under the rubber at the bottom of the door handle pocket. Everything looked fine. I could not figure anything out measuring continuity on the switch contacts, other than that the fast down momentary little button was doing something. I put it all back together and it works perfectly. Must have just been a bad connection on a wire connector. I realize that you can't just punch the button hard, you need to push it hard for about half a second, then the window will go fully down by itself now.

Sandman, I plan on cleaning mine every 70k miles from now on. I would put this repair in the same category, mess and time wise, as changing my own oil, which I never do anymore. But since to clean the TB I don't even have to get under the car, I rate it as an easier operation. I still have the original plugs, which based on the mileage, (running 42 mpg this tank), the current ones are still doing their job. But I bought 4 new ones, so I will be changing those when the rain stops. It will be much easier to do than changing them on any front wheel drive V6, and this car performs like a V6 due to the auxiliary electric motor thrust. I love this car and I will try to keep it running until I reach the distance to the moon (249,000 miles)

119,500 miles now, 6000 miles later, and still no codes occur. I carry an inexpensive OBD2 code reader in the car. I think that throttle body sticking code is fixed with the cleaning. My friend's 2002 Corvette, has an OBD2 code built into his original from the factory vehicle. The code and a message display above the steering wheel column, if there is ever a system failure. Obviously all cars could do this, but they probably don't because it would not be a marketing feature to sell cars.

I tried that, it didn't work. I'm thinking it must be the switch. I'll open up the door, and check the lower range of the switch for continuity.

My 2010 Ford Fusion one touch auto window down button is not working. It goes up in auto mode, but not down. The up and down both work, just not the auto down. Is this likely to be the window switch itself? Is it repairable? Do I have to remove the door inner panel to get at it? I'm looking for anyone with experience in this area for advice.

Is that how the engine runs high compression on regular gas?

The carbon is all on the downstream side of the throttle plate.

No, the carbon was like baked on. Getting the throttle body off was like a 10 minute job. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to remove the wire connector, you have to pull the red tab up, but I had to also stick a small screw driver underneath the opposite end of the red tab on the connector and lift outward and it came off real easy. Yours might be easier. Kerosene or paint thinner wouldn't touch the carbon, it took several iterations of soak with carb cleaner and scrap with the square cut popsicle sticks. Plus a small piece of fine steel wool. Since the TB is aluminum and precise, you do not want to use any steel scrapers. Carb cleaner is very powerful, clean your hands frequently or wear gloves, don't get it on plastic or rubber parts. I would have rather had a little can of carb cleaner that I could have brushed on versus a spray, the spray tended to splash the area too much. The car is still running great, the mileage seems to be better, I got 46 mpg driving 20 miles yesterday, for some reason it seems to operate smoother on speed control.

I am 95% confident that the wrench light and code P2112 (throttle body sticking shut) is fixed. I drove the same 40 miles today that I drove yesterday where I got 3 wrench lights and loss of power events, and I got nothing today, and the code P2112 has completely cleared for the first time in the last week and a half. The only thing I did was thoroughly clean the throttle body, which was coated with a hard approximately 1/2 a millimeter of carbon. Be sure to clean the edge of the throttle plate good also, as that is what sticks. So far I have not spent a penny on this fix, just some labor. It has a fairly heavy spring holding it a position about 4 degrees from shut, so blocking it open with a small cube of wood about 2 cm high is helpful. You do not have to take the gear/motor drive cover off as I did, I just wanted to check the motor contacts, which were fine. This is the first such cleaning at 112,900 miles, and 6 years.

It may have worked, I haven't driven it yet. I need to go at least 10 miles to test it and I'm going 40 miles in the morning. I have 80% hope that it will work.

I cleaned it already. I used carb cleaner which dissolved the carbon layer, then I used my kerosene parts cleaner tub to finish the job, with steel wool and Popsicle sticks cut with square ends (saves fingernails and doesn't damage the aluminum). I did not adjust the closed position, I decided like you said, that it's a precision device, and while that worked on my old Explorer, I will just leave it alone. It seems to be better already, but I will find out tomorrow when I drive 40 miles round trip for a medical appointment. A YouTube by a Ford mechanic said there was another problem with the motor contacts, but they looked fine to me, like new.

That didn't seem to help. With no fuel in that area, it doesn't flush the carbon out like it used to with carbs. But now that I have it off, I will just clean the carbon out.

When I took it off, it was clearly sticking. It's natural position when disconnected is like roughly 4 degrees from being closed. I could push it with my finger, and it would stick shut. After doing that about 4 times, it would not stick shut. There was spring pressure to open it to the 4 degree point. I am sure during it's functioning mode, it does go completely shut, and it was probably just sticking. So I am cleaning the black carbon layer off, mainly on the inside of the TB, and I will see if it works better now. I had 4 more events of the wrench, this morning and lose of power, which is just the early calibration being too careful. I pull over, turn the engine off, wait 30 seconds, restart, and the wrench is gone and the normal function is back. I think the recall 13N03 that ended in Jan. this year included a new calibration that would let you continue driving. I understand the TB drive motor with it's healthy gear ratio normally can break loose a stuck shut plate. There is also a throttle plate closed position adjustment screw that I could adjust to maybe a quarter of a degree open, which might avoid the stuck shut situation in the future.

Last week my Wife was driving the FFH, and the throttle quit responding. She pulled over, and realized all she had was electric mode, with which she managed to drive about 3 miles to home. Half a tank of gas. I immediately drove the vehicle, and it acted normal, even at full throttle. The engine light was on. I pulled 2 codes with my OBD2 sensor, it listed them 1 and 2, but they were identical P2112's. I assume that means there were 2 events. I ran a Health Report. I did not clear the codes. I drove it the next day for 40 miles with the engine light on, everything normal. After restarting the drive home, the engine light was off, and has stayed off and is still off. I can now still pull just 1 code, P2112. I have not tried to erase it, in case I want to go to the dealer. The Ford Health Report I ran right after the event responded strongly to all the warnings that are in the owners manual for the engine light on. I ran a health report again after the engine light was off, and I got a clean bill of health. I am aware that there was an extended warranty of 10 years and 150K miles on this issue (NHTSA action number PE13003) and a Ford CSP (customer satisfaction program #13N03) on this vehicle, but it ended at the end of Jan. 2015. I have an appointment with my Ford Dealer tomorrow, but I am not eager to spend a lot of money on an issue that might have fixed itself. I can buy a new throttle body at Rockauto for $76 plus shipping. They are not hard to install. Any advice or comments are welcome.

You may be right, I may be right, it's not important which of us is right. But I can remember in the mid 1950's, the yearly death rate in the US was 56,000. Today there are 3 times as many cars on the road and the death toll is 32,000. Seven big factors to lower that number were: 1) better highways. 2) seat belts 3) anti-lockup braking systems and disc brakes 4) a national crack down on DUI's, higher penalties, more awareness. 5) Airbags, estimated at 750 lives a year saved. 6) crash structural standards of collapse for all vehicles, 7). sophisticated containment of fuel in an accident, etc. I'm just saying that accident avoidance systems including radar braking and steering maneuvers would have a huge impact on fatal crashes, and is the obvious next step. The National Transportation Safety Board agrees with me, note my comment at the same site: http://www.edmunds.com/car-news/collision-avoidance-systems-should-be-standard-on-new-passenger-vehicles-says-ntsb.html For good drivers like yourself, it may make very little difference, and may only be an annoying higher cost. I'm not worried about drivers like you, I worried about the people I see behind me in my mirror, following too close with a phone wedged against their ear.

I guess it's only on the 2016 Lincoln MKX: "When on the move, the (2016) MKX has pre-collision assist to help avoid or at least mitigate the severity of front-end crashes. The system sends off a warning for the driver when it detects a vehicle or pedestrian, automatically braking if no action is taken by the driver." Read more: http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/the-new-2016-lincoln-mkx-photos-and-details/#ixzz3gGw1Opnu Follow us: @digitaltrends on Twitter | digitaltrendsftw on Facebook