MycoMansell

I have had a similar problem where my 2010 Ford Fusion S blows hot air, and firestone diagnosed me with two issues: A/C EVACUATE AND RECHARGE R134A W/ DYE and REMOVE AND REPLACE AC CONTROL PANEL. To troubleshoot, look for some common problems that could be going on with your cars A/C system: Ensure there is an adequate amount of refrigerant in the system. Low refrigerant levels can result in poor cooling performance. Look for visible signs of refrigerant leaks. Oil stains around fittings, connections, or the compressor can indicate a leak. You can use an ultraviolet dye to trace leaks. Check the AC compressor for physical damage or abnormal noises. A malfunctioning compressor can lead to poor cooling performance. Check the condition and tension of the drive belt(s) connected to the AC compressor. Worn or loose belts can affect the compressor's performance. Inspect the condenser for debris such as leaves, bugs, or dirt. A clogged condenser can reduce the efficiency of the AC system. Ensure that the condenser fan is working correctly. A malfunctioning fan can lead to inadequate heat dissipation from the condenser. A clogged cabin air filter can reduce the airflow, impacting the cooling efficiency. Replace the filter if necessary. Check the AC controls, including the temperature and fan speed settings, to ensure they are functioning correctly. Faulty controls may give the impression of an AC problem. Inspect electrical connections, fuses, and relays related to the AC system. Electrical issues can lead to intermittent cooling or complete failure. Use AC gauges to measure high and low side pressures. Abnormal pressure readings can indicate issues such as a refrigerant leak, a faulty compressor, or a restriction in the system. You should always refer to your car owner's manual or under your hood to see what kind of car refrigerant and how much it needs (labeled Charge level). Working on the A/C can be complex and dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing since it's a pressurized system. See if you can get it diagnosed somewhere prior to working on it for cheap. Getting work done at shops may be a total scam but their diagnoses I believe can be valuable sometimes. In my case, I attempted to put 18 oz of R134a Freon into my lines, but it was giving me a reading of red before I even could put any in the lines (indicating a problem with the compressor per the bottle). I paid somebody local with a pressure system (or you can rent one from Autozone) and he sucked all of the air and moisture from my high and low pressure lines under the hood to create a system under vacuum for me. Leaving air or moisture in the lines can cause them to freeze inside the system creating ice crystals which can cause damage. Once there is a vacuum, I was able to put the whole can of freon in my car. I could tell it made a difference since my compressor begun spinning again indicating that it was compressing what I had just put in. Given I needed 22 oz and I only put 18 oz in to "charge" it, after a while it started to blow cold if you didn't blow it max immediately, and if you hit the option that lets the same air get recycled through the system (positive feedback loop to cool your air). I believe the AC head control panel part pertained to the AC control part of the troubleshooting. Though I am sure if I wanted a factory new A/C system and wanted a tundra in my car, I would replace that $200 some computer module but for a cheap fix I would consider that if it works. Also, this is not a how to guide or step by step post, but hopefully this points you in the right direction. Best of luck Leandra

2010 Ford Fusion Man here, I have purchased a gasket, sealant, filter, and solenoid (possibly) for nothing out of ignorance of the fact that I have a sealed transmission. I disconnected my car battery for safety (what i thought since I would be around electrical wiring), and removed the plastic panel under my car after jacking it up. It was impossible to find my transmission pan (LOL). There is not a way, as far as I know, to enter the transmission housing without taking apart a majority of the front of the car, or just straight up removing the transmission as a whole. I may be able to remove the side covering on the transmission housing that holds the solenoid valve housing and filter, but I found this out too late and will have to attempt another look another day. I am getting it diagnosed at Firestone tomorrow so well see what they have to say (not necessarily do). I returned most of my parts I ordered, and just drained the transmission fluid using the drain plug near the driver's side. I got about 4.5 quarts of the blackest substance I've seen. Clear sign that it was probably never changed in the vehicles 112,500 miles of existence. I was worried I removed the wrong plug and was draining some other mystery fluid at first. I added five quarts of fresh, red Mercon LV (4.5 quarts that came out plus the "pint" or have quart that was initially missing from my fluid check prior) and let it cycle through all the gears. I still have the same if not a little worse issue, but i am determined that a change was necessary and the new fluid will help in some way. We will see if I need what i suspect is a reprogrammed Electronic Control Module (ECM), an actual solenoid replacement, or if they are just going to tell me I need a whole new transmission. Cheers!

I got my battery just at the beginning of this year, I will get it looked at and see if it needs some charging or a new battery (I'd be surprised since i thought they lasted two years). Thank you for the advice!

Hello all, I am a young aspiring side mechanic who recently took my car (2010 Ford Fusion S - 113,000 Mi) to a Ford dealership nearby and got my brakes done. I tried everything to fix it (i.e. master cylinder change, total flush of everything, tested booster and ABS/HCU, etc.) but somehow a brake switch was causing my brake pedal to not work. Anyways, I pick it up and begin having transmission problems while driving it home. Check engine light, powertrain wrench light, battery light, the whole kabam. I experience various engine sounds such as booms, rattles, and clunking, and my engine slips making it almost impossible to drive over 2000 RPM without losing my acceleration. I took it to Autozone and got a free plug-in scan done on it and it came back with an error code P0976 reading "Shift Solenoid 'B' Control Circuit Low". Upon some research, that solenoid interacts with the transmission control module and allows for shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear - makes sense since I only have troubles driving in the city rather than highway driving. I experienced something similar to this whenever my alternator was going out, except in this scenario my car suspiciously starts perfectly and I have no other electrical issues, but this is all besides the point. I know taking it to a shop, they will probably tell me that the transmission is shot and needs to be replaced for thousands of dollars. Being a DIY mechanic, I take pride in being able to save a lot of money and learning all about car mechanics. Seeing little to no information on the issue other than some videos of solenoid removals from similar cars, I figured I try to buy a Haynes repair manual for my car. Alas, that still had no information regarding my problem; though, it was still a neat repair manual for what it was. I am fairly confident in the problem since I am missing about a pint of transmission fluid and, getting the car from my grandma, I know the fluid has never been changed. My plan of action consists of changing what transmission fluid comes from the plug and pan, somehow determining which circuit is supposed to be "B" and changing the corresponding solenoid. I purchased a new transmission filter, some RCV sealant just in case, and a transmission pan gasket from rock auto. Again, Autozone claims all these different shaped gaskets fit my transmission pan and many different videos do different things so I am trying my best with what information I have. I will try it later on in the week and see what progress I can make with it. I know whatever amount comes out (plus whatever I measured to be missing) must go back in with fresh Mercon LV, so hopefully nothing goes wrong. Fingers Crossed! If anyone wants to provide some tips or feedback it would be greatly appreciated. I post also knowing others with similar issues will be able to use this in the future. IMG_7220[1].HEIC