geopilot

It is not a typical maintenance procedure performed by an owner, so not in the owner's manual. Since the FFH sensors are not specific to the wheel's position on the car, no need to re-program after a tire rotation. Like I mentioned above, I have used this procedure 3 times on my 2010 FFH.

That aftermarket TPMS transmitter was not available when I bought the Motorcraft part, but seems to get good reviews. Definitely worth a try, and Amazon has easy returns if it doesn't work for you. Good luck!

TPMS instructions.pdf

I have replaced 2 tire sensors so far on my 2010 FFH due to failing batteries. I used the Schrader 20315 TPMS Sensor (valve type) purchased from amazon. Perfect fit and appears to be the OEM part. Amazon also sells the Motorcraft TPMS19 transmitter required to program/train the new sensor to the car. You can also use the transmitter to identify which sensor has failed and needs to be replaced.

For what it's worth my 2010 FFH also rarely goes into EV mode anymore below 50 degrees- I have 112k on it, and the battery shows full most of the time around town, but don't get much EV operation. It is definitely temperature-related, but did not use to be like this. HV battery must be aging I guess. Any reason to have the firmware updated when I take it in for the airbag recall? 

I'm thinking of adding a visor transmitter- more pics or install tips would be great-

Thanks

Mine does not have nav, but should not make any difference. I disconnected the battery but before that, another post recommended moving the seats forward, removing the two screws on the side of the rear console, then moving the seats all the way back before disconnecting the negative lead on the 12V battery. Also check that the pinch bolt on the steering column is facing back so you can get a socket on it without having to turn the wheel.

Some other differences with the 2010 Hybrid that I found:

- extra connector in the rear console to the 110V AC outlet- pull rear panel out at bottom and it will swing up and you can disconnect it

- no splines on the steering column shaft- just 4 flats so easy to keep aligned, but mark it anyway

- extra support bracket and 13mm bolt on passenger side of center console- this bracket will hit the center tunnel when you rotate the dash so watch the wiring to avoid damage

- instrument cluster is different- 2 screws at top hold the trim, and the lower clips pull out, not up. Then 3 screws hold instrument cluster, easy to remove and disconnect.

- 3 connectors in passenger footwell- large one and 2 antenna connectors (radio and satellite I think)

Other than these- it was very similar. Go easy on the A-pillar trim, pull down rather than out so the clip slides out of the plastic mount. The clip will stay on the car, need to twist it out and replace in trim piece to re-install.

Sure- here's the video, done by an awesome Ford tech. Could not have done it without it.

AC was still not working. Confirmed system had full charge. Decided to replace evaporator temperature sensor. It's a big job, but not difficult- just time consuming. Followed great DIY video on You Tube- the hybrid is a little different, but got it done without major problems, and no broken trim or clips. Temp sensor was corroded and had open circuit. Installed new sensor and AC is now working normally! So yes, the temp sensors do go bad on the hybrids, and no codes are set. Center console, shifter, and dash have to come out. 2010 FFH, 68k miles. Thanks for the help guys.

Continuing to have intermittent AC on my 2010 FFH. No correlation to temperature or other operating conditions. Starting to wonder if it could be related to the 12V battery starting to go? Sight glass on battery is black, but no other low voltage symptoms. I did pull a code from the accessory protocol interface module using FORScan (nothing in the air conditioning module). The code is U0100- lost communication with ECM/PCM. I don't think this has anything to do with the AC, but could result from a low voltage situation. Next step is to get the 12V battery load tested (resting voltage is 12.7). Does the AC compressor run off the HV or 12V battery?

Just an update: A/C started working normally this weekend. So problem is intermittent- will keep an eye on it for now. Did purchase an OBD2 adapter for use with Forscan software- no codes set.

The A/C on my 2010 Fusion Hybrid has stopped working. Compressor does not come on at all. I've read about an evaporator temperature sensor problem in the older Fusions. Is this a possibility on the hybrids also? Does this problem throw a code I can get read at AutoZone? Anyone tackled the dash removal required for replacement, if that is the problem?

Thanks

Well, guess I got lucky. Dealer reprogrammed the computer, which solved the problem. No charge, as they said it was a known software glitch. Why it took 4 years and 52k miles to happen I have no clue.

Thanks- build date was 6/02/09, so I think the TSB may apply:

TSB 09-13-9 SPEEDOMETER INOPERATIVE - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 6/25/2009

I'm assuming a faulty speed sensor would have triggered the check engine light, or not?

The speedometer on our 2010 FFH with 52K miles has stopped working. Odometer and all other gauges/instruments are still fuctional. I found reference to a TSB for this problem on early production 2010 models which our is. I have no codes or check engine light illuminated, so I guess I need to take it in to be re-programmed, unless someone else has any ideas on this one- probably not covered under the extended hybrid warranty either...

Price has dropped to $20 for this DVD manual on ebay- anybody have an update on how good this is?

Thanks

In my FFH 5 quarts puts the oil level about the middle of the range on the dip stick. Do you guys leave it at that, or fill it all the way to the top of the mark on the dip stick?

First oil change at six months and 4,100 miles. Went with Motorcraft full synthetic 5w/20. Also got the splash guards/mud flaps put on. They fit perfectly. They don't have Fusion on them which is fine with me. Installation charge was $15. Dealer had no info yet from Ford on the brake software change. I told them I'd check back when I got the letter.

Could you post the part number for the 2010 splash guards? Is this a 4-piece set, or just on the rear? Thanks

I know it takes two keys in order to be able to self program a third key. For that reason, I want to add a spare to the two keys you get with the new car (you do get two, right? I still haven't taken delivery of mine).

 

What I want to know is if there is a cheaper option than a standard key with the lock/unlock/etc buttons. Basically, a "plain" key that just has the security chip necessary to enable the ignition. If so, does anyone know how much such a key would cost?

Yes, I just did that exact thing for the same reason. You can buy a non-remote key at the local Ford dealer for $25, including cutting. This has the necessary chip in it. I let our daughter use that key so she doesn't lose a good key. You can get blank plain Ford keys on Ebay for $10-15, but then you have to get it cut and hope it has the right chip in it. Just easier to stop by your dealer.

I see one for $ 24.95 (buy it now price) and at that price something is wrong

 

ebay motors link

Yep, that's the one. Seller gets great feedback on all the other CD manuals they sell, just not sure what the source of this material is.

There's a seller on ebay offering a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid service manual on DVD- looks pretty extensive, requires 9GB to install. Anybody bought a manual from seller skinnyarch ? Search for item 150408353005 or by the seller. I'm not affiliated in anyway, just wondering if these are legit?

Wanted to see if anyone has this problem- when our FFH is warming up with the climate control on auto and cabin temp set in the low 70's, the fan blasts air through the defrost vents below the windsheild even before the engine heats up. It is quite loud, and seems to delay the ICE warming up into the EV range. Seems like the fan should not kick in until there is some heat, and then just from the vents in the footwell. This happens without defrost switched on- I've started turning the climate system completely off until the ICE is up to temp to avoid this blast of cold air. Any thoughts?

I think they dropped the valet key because there is no lock on the glove box, and the trunk can be opened with the button on the dash- so it would serve no purpose.

2.) When I took delivery, the dealer gave me two keys for the car and I had a third cut (a flip key). I know that in the past, most vehicles came with a third "valet key" that lacks the remote entry module and only opens the doors and starts the engine. Did anyone receive this third key when they took delivery or is two the standard number these days?

 

Thanks for your help--I hope to post some pictures soon!