Milan_OH

If your cell phone has google applications, and you haven't turned-off the location history, big brother knows exactly what your route was.............. https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/3118687?visit_id=1-636392623820901956-825692257&p=location_history&hl=en&rd=1 Jack in Ohio

Interesting to me they now recommend the caliber slide brake service. Had my left rear caliber not 'hung-up' and toasted the rotor @ 76K, I'd still be running on all original brakes @ 115K on my '10 MMH. Front brakes still original. You might consider this service sometime before 50K. What is BG additive? Jack in Ohio

I have adaptive cruise control on a '13 Audi. Generally I like it, there are a couple quirks to be aware of though. Firstly, the stress free nature of blending into traffic patterns are great. It works best when traffic is light. Secondly, what I don't like is when somebody pulls in front of you, and fakes the system into thinking it needs to hit the brakes hard, when maybe it's not warranted. Mine has a setting for following distance; 2, 3, 4, 5 car lengths. Even set @ 2 car lengths, people will change lanes in front of you. I've not experienced Ford's ACC, maybe the operational behavior algorithm is "smarter".

'10 was the first year for Fusion, but the Escape hybrid had been around for years before. Search around this forum for loder's post regarding the 1st gen fusion hybrids...lot's of specific details. The general feeling on this vehicle is as describe in the posts above. Sounds like you're in a strong negotiating position. The extended warranty.....that's a tough one. If daughter is "away" for college could make sense out of sheer convenience & peace of mind, but as a practical matter, unless the car has a hidden latent defect, they're pretty damn solid.

I've had a similar experience...Bought my '10 MMH new. The left rear brake caliber hung-up and toasted the rotor at about 76K, and a few other minor things....I'm knocking on a wooden-electron right now. How I can get 113K out of the front brakes (even with regen) is beyond me. I keep a maintenance spreadsheet I thought It'd be fun to post. No way I'm touching your long term MPG though, my car reports ~36MPG. When I "try" for MPG in the Summer, I can get ~42MPG. Good luck, Jack in Ohio Date Mechanic Service Mileage Cost Bought 08/17/09 Mileage=26 Cost $25,796 Sticker $33, 075 17-Aug-09 Major Ford Queens NYC 25.0 12-Sep-09 Hidy Ford Spare Key $ 23.97 24-Sep-09 Weather Tech Floor Mats $ 179.00 25-Nov-09 Ziebart Window Tint 5,300.0 25-Nov-09 Ziebart Under Coat / Rust Proof 5,300.0 $ 505.00 30-Nov-09 Maaco Fixed LH Rear Quarter Panel 5,460.0 $ 612.76 3-Dec-09 Self Rotate Tires 5,488.0 $ - 17-Apr-10 Self Rotate Tires 10,080.0 $ - 19-Apr-10 self oil change, filter, 5W20, Mobil 1 & filter 10,200.0 $ 37.00 27-Aug-10 Self Rotate Tires 18,350.0 $ - 2-Oct-10 Self oil change, filter FL910S, 5W20, Mobil 1 20,323.0 $ 27.00 9-Apr-11 Self oil change, filter 5W20, Mobil 1, Rotate Tires 29,888.0 $ 45.00 6/31/11 Self Wax 33,500.0 $ - 1-Sep-11 Self Check engine light on, then off after a week 36,500.0 $ - 29-Jan-12 Self oil change, filter FL910S, 5W20, Mobil 1 – use 13mm for oil plug, 10mm & 9/32” for cover plates 43,450.0 $ 45.00 24-Oct-12 Self oil change, filter-Bosch 3330, 5W20-Mobil 1 55,841.0 $ 36.37 17-Jun-13 Self oil change, filter 5W20, Mobil M1-102, Rotate Tires 66,500.0 $ 52.00 10-Jul-13 Beyers Front right wheel bearing 67,500.0 $ 341.81 4-Oct-13 Tire Rack Tires, Michelin x-ice XI3, 225/50R17 71,560.0 $ 775.00 14-Oct-13 Wal-Mart Install tires, lifetime balance 71,560.0 $ 66.19 21-Oct-13 Tasca - ebay right rear tail lamp assy 72,000.0 $ 265.00 28-Feb-14 Beyers left rear brake hung-up, destroyed pads, complete rear brake job, rotors, oil / filter, fix driver door handle 76,433.0 $ 507.44 9-Apr-14 Beyers Hit something on Highway, reattach bumper and undercarriage 77,914.0 $ 62.72 1-Jul-14 Self Re-install right-rear tail lamp. Original assembly fix lasted a couple months, then same problem. Suspect PCB is bad 80,000.0 $ - 7-Feb-15 Valvoline Quick Change Wilmington Oil & filter (VO25), 5qts 5w20 Syn Power full Syn 91,839.0 $ 69.70 27-Jul-15 USA Tire Wilmington Replace RF TPMS 97,234.0 $ 97.00 21-Mar-16 Valvoline Quick Change Wilmington Oil & filter (VO25), 5.3qts 5w20 Syn Power full Syn 107,950.0 $ 77.64 21-Mar-16 Costco Tire Rotation 107,950.0 22.0 2-Jun-16 AutoGlass Now windshield replacement 110,000.0 $ 198.41 12-Aug-16 Hidy Ford LV Battery 111,265.0 $ 114.00 $ 4,160.00

Loss of brakes? While driving? Sounds scary. I recently got in My '10 MMH one morning to find a brake fault, TPMS light, maybe others. Remote locks wouldn't open, could start car, but brake pedal was firm (hydraulic only I suppose), couldn't engage brakes, couldn't shift into drive. Disconnect / reconnect battery to "reboot" the car. All working, however, I replaced the 12V battery ASAP, no issues since. $119 from local Ford dealer. Original battery had 110K miles / 7yrs. It seems a marginal battery manifests itself in this type of strange behavior. Remember, you're basically driving a computer. One glitch and divide by zero...... Jack

My '10 MMH has been extremely reliable. The only maintenance having been; (1) wheel bearing (1) rear brake job (1) tail lamp failure and a couple CELs which correct themselves after a few days. I've never had the vehicle back to the dealer for any updates (by choice). Original front brakes....really, 106K? I set of tires. Now, please excuse me while I find some wood to knock on.

bad differential, pulling motor, new tranny.....wow, my MMH just turned 103K, if my differential goes out, I'll be totaling out the vehicle. That repair must cost ~$5K?? Let us know.

Yes, dull hum, whirl or whatever. One test is to listen when you turn the wheel whilst driving. You'll hear the 'pitch' change when stress on the bearing changes as you move the wheel back and forth.

My right front went @ 67,500, cost $341 at an indy. Have 103K now, drivers side is still good.

I just replaced the OEM tires on my 2010 MMH after 71K miles. I was never really in love with them, thought the rain and winter time performance was poor midway thru the tread life. I bought the Michelin X-Ice Xi3 tires from Tirerack @ $180 ea w/ $50 rebate. They are a LRR tire, although I won't get 70K miles out of them, I'll have some confidence in rain & snow. Jack in Ohio

Reset your long term MPG through the menu set-up. I believe the DTE is calculated based on that number, The long term MPG on new cars is bogus based on factory testing, dealer test drives etc. Next time you fill-up the DTE should be more reasonable. My last fill-up was ~725 based on my long term MPG of 41.8.

As others have said in the threads below, I feel the OEM MXV4 tire hydroplanes easily and aren't great in the snow. That said, with a low rolling resistance tire, there are going to be some trade-offs. I too will be replacing my stock tires before Winter sets-in on my MMH, 50K miles. Every time I buy tires that aren't Michelin, I get disappointed. Goodyear Assurance's on my wife's Saab would never high-speed balance, Faulken's lasted 30K miles. It just seems Michelin has the best balance between, longevity and performance. I'll probably look at the Michelin winter tires, although winters in OH aren't brutal, I like the security and performance of their winter tires. I have the Michelin X-ices on my Navigator which I drive to Canada and MI regularly in the winter, and they are excellent performers. I'm sure there will be a MPG hit on my MMH. Perhaps I'll run them at the upper end of the PSI range in the Summer to compensate. Jack in Ohio More tire discussion threads here too: Ford Fusion Forum Ford Fusion Exterior, Braking & Chassis Forum Wheels & Tires

Sailor - I've seen this twice with my '10 MMH. Once right after the 30K warranty expired, and just last week @ 48K. Both times it was on for a couple days then off with no noticeable change in performance....mpg climbing with each tank as avg daily temps rise. Next time I'll at least get the code. I haven't had either firmware update performed, I doubt it related to that.

Mopar - These are all extra dealer profit add-ons.......NOT REQUIRED to purchase your vehicle. Just say no thanks. Go back and tell them you've changed your mind regarding the add-ons. Perhaps your state has 'buyers remorse' laws. Complete BS, brakes on this car will last (I've read) maybe 100k miles due to the regeneration braking technology. Extended warranty......your preference. Search this forum and read opinions regarding extended warranties. Jack in Ohio

Glad to here all is well so far. Keep us posted. Interesting that Progressive will cover collision, my insurer, Cincinnati Ins. flatly rejected the notion, liability only. Jack in Ohio

300k, that's impressive. Well, since I can't get collision coverage on a salvage title and no warranty, the decision is clear.........

All, I'm considering adding a used FFH to my fleet of (1) MMH. So far, I've found two options. Oddly enough, both are the tri-coat white w/ 502 package. One has 54K miles, original owner, perfect condition etc. Asking $21,500. The second has 21K miles and had left front damage, new fender, bumper and fully repaired. Pictures all look good, and @ $19,900 seems like a bargain....if it checks-out. Any opinions on the high mileage / no warranty? When are these FFH/MMH going to start showing signs of age. I know the hybrid components already have extended warranty to 80K or more. I'm more worried about the electronics. My MMH has 32K now, and, has never been to the dealer. I've got a good feeling about the long term reliability aspect. Regarding the wrecked and repaired vehicle, I know it can have hidden damage etc., however, if it drives OK, I'm willing to chance-it for the price, especially @ say, $18K-ish. One red flag is the car fax report says 'salvage', then re-titled as 'rebuilt'. That is inconsistent with the stated repairs from the selling dealer. How could a left front collision 'total-out' the car? Maybe frame damage etc. I understand the factory warranty is void on salvage vehicles. True? Thoughts? Thanks - Jack in Ohio

Don't worry Quark, you're doing fine. If you drive this like a normal car, 35 sounds about right when new. If this is your first hybrid, then you'll learn to maximize the mpg. So, both break-in and technique will slowly increase your mileage. I use only mild hyper mileage techniques and my long term average just surpassed 41mpg. Switch your gauge to empower, you can really increase your in-town mpg using EV mode. Jack in Ohio

User, I have a slightly different take. I wonder if FMC wanted to take the 'high' road approach to music copyright laws etc. by making it difficult, only allowing CDA files to be copied...very slowly via optical media. Remember, when this system was designed, probably in the mid 2000s and right in the midst of the Napster / piracy etc. controversy. Yes, you can copy pirated stuff, but what a PITA. BTW, yes, you're missing a nice, 'amazing' recording feature. While a recording is underway, you can stop/start the car and the recording will resume. Thus, just pump the CD's in while listening to radio or whatever and eventually, it'll get done. Jack in Ohio

No, I didn't do anything special except reset the mpg whilst already cruise controlling @ 58mph. I have no idea if I had a tailwind or not, seemed mostly calm on that day, the afternoon of Monday, 3/14/11. There is much semi traffic, but I wasn't drafting. I had about 100 miles on the tank around town, then drove to Canton, Ohio and back. My mpg stated ~38mpg when I started on Sunday evening and climbed all the way there to ~41, On the way home, it kept climbing to 43. Then, when 60 miles from home, I decided I didn't want to average in the 100 miles of in town driving, so I reset and viola. My MMH has ~28k on the odometer, I had 40psi in the tires last summer, but haven't checked them since, I'm running M1 oil, I only used the climate control when needed. I really don't believe those three things are big swingers though. This car (FFH/MMH) has a sweet spot between 55 & 60 mph IMO....if you can stand it. I just filled up tonight, 668 miles/16.5 gal, 40.5mpg for the tank (hand calculated) Jack in Ohio

Too many factors to answer that. You should expect AT LEAST the rated 41mpg city. Here's an example of what this vehicle can do on the highway. Cruise set to 58mph, flat terrain between Columbus & Dayton Ohio, temp 51 degrees, ~60 mile trip. Pretty impressive.

'burnt rubber' smell. That surprises me, you must have had the traction control off since it prevents the tires from excessive spinning. Good thing they didn't catch fire like the guy in Atlanta a couple weeks ago. That was hilarious. Otherwise, I think the vehicle handles the snow/slippery roads adequately...not great for a front wheel drive sedan. I think the low rolling resistance (LRR) tire are largely to blame. They must be a harder durometer rubber compound to achieve the LRR, so the trade-off should be expected. My next set of tires will be something different. MMH - 26K miles Jack in Ohio

I had a similar thing in the summer, I thought it was a musty smell like something in the air duct was wet. Yes, wet dog/tire smell is similar enough. I haven't checked the cabin filter yet, haven't noticed much since the weather turned cold. In older cars, it was a clogged drainage vent in the AC system. Not sure about this unit........ Jack in Ohio

Ian, I'm going to assume since you quoted the mileage in km, that you're in Canada. Your overall mpg will be down a bit because of the yearly, average colder temperature, but probably 2x the mpg of the hemi. I too have the Atlantis green, only minor issue thus far is my bright head lights would not come-on intermittently. I flip-flopped two relays under the hood and no problems since. Probably just needed re-seated. The hybrid components have a much longer warranty, so, no worries there. Unusual to find one of these used and for 10K off sticker, not bad. Since it's been sitting for 5 months, I would think your negotiating position would be strong to do even better. You're giving up AWD in the great white north though Good luck, Jack in Ohio