Milan_OH

I would get it just for the integrated blue tooth phone interface alone, not to mention the voice commands etc. I'm not a an ford audiophile, however, I think you'll still be able to upgrade and keep all the sync features. Based on your user name 'nullstring', you're a computer geek anyway, so get all the technology you can. I would 'like' my hybrid w/o sync and GPS, but I LOVE it with all the gadgets! Check out more features here..... https://secure.syncmyride.com/Own/Modules/SupportContent/SupportDirectorySyncUnit.aspx Jack in Ohio

Yes, good info thanks. I've been thinking I've either have a skunky wet cabin filter or otherwise clogged condensation drain somewhere. After the normal summer usage my AC was idle for a number of weeks. First time I used it again, I noticed a musty smell.....wonder if the filter needs changed. Anyone else experience this? Thanks, Jack in Ohio

Do you guys remember when Mobil 1 first came out in the mid-eightys? They marketed the new synthetic oil as 25K between oil changes. Once they established themselves and, with the advent of the quick-change oil industry, suddenly 3k became the norm.....what a joke. Marketing at it's finest eh? Yes, I think synthetics are that good.....25K, but I still change once a year using M1. Jack in Ohio

Using voice commands, enter a new destination to your new apartment, then, move out of your mom's basement. That should impress her!. Sorry, couldn't resist. Ok, how about have your buddy send you a text and have sync read it to you. A really nice safety feature. Jack in Ohio

I suspect your mpg discrepancy is related to your assumption that the LT mpg formula is calculated as you do; (all miles)/(all fuel) since the car was new. While your ledger is an accurate 'Life' mpg, I believe the OBC calculated number is a running average of say, the last 5000 miles for instance, or last 6 months. I'm not sure I've ever seen a published algorithm and not sure FMC wants to publish it because that just invites the anal-retentive crowd (us) to challenge. It's never wise to deal in absolutes when it comes to product specification unless required. That said, I believe it's possible to 'back into' the LT mpg algorithm by resetting the LT mpg periodically and recording all miles and gallons used and analyzing the data......yes, I'm an anal retentive geek too......... Jack in Ohio

I concur with your report Carl. I'll easily top the 700 miles/tank mark in a few days for the first time. Over 500 on the trip with ~250 M2E. Previously, I've not really tried hard in my ~18k miles so far in my MMH, and I've achieved right at 40mpg long term. I finally decided to back-off on the highway and stay between 55-60 mph for my 'in town' highway miles (~40%). Wow, what a difference, all of my segment trip reports are 50-53 mpg. My current tank average is @ 45.8 and climbing daily. (I'm also learning how to drive this thing as well). My long term for the last two months is 41.8 so my next fill-up should report well over 700 M2E. Jack in Ohio

Yes, I did the same thing...exactly once. Same puddle underneath. Yes, nice overflow control system FMC employed to keep us from getting doused with fuel when we don't do what the manual says. Jack in Ohio

Well upon further review, all fuses are OK, could still be a 'sticky' relay. I can get the brights if I flip the lever a few times. Sometimes they go off by themselves. High beam indicator never falters. Intermittent somewhere in the circuit. Off to the dealer................... P.S. Could the fuse box under the dash be harder to get at? Come-on FMC! Jack in Ohio

Yes, good idea, I'll check it out after work and report back, otherwise first trip to the dealer......................

Well, after 17K trouble free miles on my MMH, a minor hiccup. Is there any controls scenario that would prevent the high beams from working? Odd coincidence that both lamps would blow together. I haven't investigated yet, blue high beam indicator works normally. Anybody else seen this? Jack in Ohio

Boo, Doesn't sense make! There HAS TO BE a vent stuck open allowing hot air in the cabin. Should be easy to trouble shoot......or just shoot me. If you're in OH, stop by, I'll figure it out for you.

No prob with mine either. Put a thermometer in the duct. I would expect 45-55 degree air.

Bear, I think there's more to the equation than a 3 mile compute to work. That's <1K miles a year on your commute.....an enviable distance we'd all like to have, however, as a percentage of your yearly miles driven, it's ~<10% based on 12K/year. You'll surely benefit the remaining 90% of your miles. I'd guesstimate your MPG the first few miles driven are going to be 20-30ish at best. As a side note, if my battery is 'up', my MMH (now a collector's item), will drop into EV mode before the green temp light illuminates, until the battery goes down. I happen to have a mile of down hill/level terrain sub division driving for a mile out of my driveway, so it's possible to benefit on a short jont. If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate on the FFH. When gas goes back to $4, you'll thank yourself. Jack in Ohio

Sailor, BLIS Sensors are of no concern when it comes to rustproofing. Mounted in a plastic bumper, the rust proof juice goes no where near them. Jack in OH

I do have BLIS, I don't know where the sensors are located, and, if they were sprayed, they still work fine. Tell me where the sensors are located, I'll look to see if they masked them prior.

Sailor, I had my MMH rustproofed @ Ziebart here in Dayton, Ohio. I can't address 'specific precautions', however, I had the same concern and they told me they receive guidelines from the mfg on areas to avoid with over spray etc. They also did the doors which is most susceptible on today's cars...especially in OH with the road salt. Some say it's not necessary any longer, but I keep my vehicles >10 years, so if it saves one rusted brake line, it will have been worth it. It certainly adds weight, they could not tell me how much, I'd estimate 50-100 lbs perhaps. Jack in Ohio

Jerry, Yes, I will 2nd the complaint of delay between starting the car and the display. If you jump in the car, hit reverse, the silly nav and sync is still going thru 'boot up' with splash screens (advertisements) until the rear view comes up. I'm usually already finished backing up. Very annoying and easily fixed if they so choose, otherwise, the good performance as others have stated is confirmed. I can't address the rear-view-mirror version. Jack in Ohio

Search the forum for 'coastal', I remember seeing a post that somebody reported successful results.

Sorry to hear of your issues. You've got bumper-to-bumper coverage 3/36, no deductible. Let us know what they find. I just passed 5500 myself, so far so good......... Jack in Ohio

mmm, I'll work on that tomorrow. A gen set can run for hours on a gallon because it's optimized for a steady state RPM/load. The Volt is a 1L 3 cylinder ICE....the info should be 'out there', (gal/hr) then, I could run the numbers. Kilowatt/hr can convert to $ for the overnight charge cycle, now we have a common denominator of $/40 miles and can normalized against MPG. Bottom line is, GM announced the 'headline grabber' numbers in the midst of the bailout debacle. If they blow it, they'll lose any remaining cred they have, I don't think they'd risk the embarrassment if it weren't true.

Yes, that's true, so let's start with a depleted battery. You let the ICE provide the initial charge...how much fuel to run 30m....don't know, maybe a 1/4 gallon, so we can do 4 total cycles....still a ridiculous 160 MPG.

My point was that the EPA wasn't doing the test for the Volt - GM was. And I don't believe the EPA has said how they will measure the VOLT's EPA mileage when it hits production. If you remember a few months ago, GM announced preliminary 'MPG' in the upper 200s. BS?...maybe not. Imagine the Volt has 1 gallon of gas on board and a full charge. You drive 40 miles (or more, assuming the gen set will maintain a charge level to operate in town..for instance) until the battery is depleted, stop, let the generator charge for 30 minutes (per the article above) and repeat the cycle until the gallon of fuel is depleted. Therefore, your MPG is easily computed. Nobody said they were contiguous miles.......

Yes, very nice indeed. One of the most comprehensive articles I've seen. One interesting point, they mention a 'con' is no AWD. Not really a con for me, however, I think I have a brochure at home the shows a MMH rear view shot that has the hybrid emblem and the AWD emblem...oops. Not sure if it was photo shopped or not, however, I suspect AWD is forthcoming next year....perhaps they just delayed for a year and didn't want to print new expensive brochures. I'll check and post a pix. Jack in Ohio

Mark, Which "overall MPG' display are you referring to? The long term number displayed when the car is turned off, or the "trip MPG' that is displayed in the same display....or the running average that is displayed continuously? Try reseting the long term and the continuous MPG. When I bought mine, the long term includes all the 'demo' time sitting stationary and demo drives etc.....not going to be representative of your driving. Mine was originally ~35, now after reset, I'm ~40 on this tank. I recently made a 2mi trip to the store...about half the trip is down hillish....my trip MPG was 71MPG, was in EV mode about half the trip. Going home, trip MPG was 37...average: 54MPG round trip. I have found the secret to staying in EV mode is flat or downhill grades for a couple mile stretch. The battery runs down after a mile or so on level grade, so engine has to kick-in. So far my secret to 47MPH in EV mode is downhill grades on a fresh battery coming off the highway for instance. With a fresh battery, I can milk it up to 45ish on a level/downhill grade. When the battery is low, you may stay in EV, but it's hard to get over ~20MPH. I have to remember, this is not an electric car. Jack in Ohio