Milan_OH

Yes, completely normal...2mi is outside of range on ev unless perfectly flat or slight downward grade.

There's a 10mm (I think) nut on the battery terminal connector, just loosen the nut and wiggle the connector back and forth to remove, leave off for ~1 minute, then reconnect.  You'll get a small spark when reconnecting, so don't be alarmed.  If this doesn't work, then I'm not sure, but it's worked for me on several occasions.  When I store my mine, I've successfully used a trickle maintenance charger w/o disconnecting the battery.

Visit your local auto parts store and have them read the fault codes.  The wrench light is a generic indicator for many faults, so at least you'll have an area to focus upon.

Should fix it then.....

What year is your Milan?  If 10-12, then most likely.

OK, here's another dilemma related to this....Ohio recently followed suit with other states and enacted an electric/hybrid fee because we're not paying our fair share of road tax (included in fuel cost).  $200/electric and $100/hybrid annually...thanks Gov. Dewine.  Notwithstanding, the merits of their actions, what if I had known about the battery reset issue, and unable to compel FMC to fix it. Should I still be subject to the additional tax?  How would I prove to the state my hybrid is no longer behaving as intended?   

Try this 

16 hours ago, allen84 said:

 

I already had thoughts on this, lol.  But it was only for the remote login support,  I did this with another member here, a couple of months ago. 

 

I will gladly help anyone out here. If they have a laptop.   If they don't have a laptop,  I'm sure they can borrow one from work, a friend, or family member, neighbor whatever, just for a day. Even for a couple of hours at most.  It is a 10  minute or less job.  

 

Then, the next thing is to buy the odb2 device from Amazon.  You can even return it for a full refund back to Amazon if you wanted it to, when you're done with it lol

 

The reason I wouldn't want to do the shipping the items route, is because I live in Canada (I'm guessing most FFH's are mostly in the US) .  Shipping these items would be subject it to customs duties, border fees and taxes.  Something that can't be avoided. 

Yes, shipping across the border is a show-stopper.   If the demand is there, I could facilitate assembling the kit & shipping.  

59 minutes ago, Notacab said:

Sofiane- i did the reset and im in the albany ny area. Depends on how far in mass your at. 

Allen84 - I'm $ensing an opportunity here for you.  What if you had a kit consisting of an old cheapo laptop fully configured, and the OBD adapter. Customer pays shipping both ways for the kit.  Customer can either perform the reset themselves with the self enclosed instructions, or you remote login to the PC.   Return shipping label included, they drive to the local UPS store (in EV mode of course) and drop off.  All for a nominal fee (and deposit).  It seems Ford is avoiding the issue for the foreseeable future. 

Joshs,   I'm in the Dayton area and willing to perform the reset for you.  It's takes about 5 minutes.  PM me.

Thanks, 

Jack in Ohio

lolder makes a good point. In addition,  I'd like to ask how long you've driven you 2010?    Based on your comment about keeping in EV mode makes me wonder about your driving technique(s).  Trying to accelerate from a dead stop in EV mode is not very useful or practical as you stated.  The simplest hypermiling  method for surface streets is; accelerate normally to something under 47MPH, then release the pedal until your EV meter shows availability, then press the pedal and  "sneak-up" using the red line to the top of the EV green box.  Assuming you have 50%+ SoC, and, on reasonable flat road, you should be able to stay in EV for a mile or more unitl the SoC drops.   If you're not using the display below, switch to it.  If you're never dropping below 5/8 SoC, then you're not using the HVB efficiently, or your HVB reset didn't reset.   You should achieve MPG segments on surface streets well over 40 MPG. On my 13 mi daily commute on surface streets, I see 45+MPG easily. 

Good luck, 

Jack in Ohio

My 2010 MMH is only @ 140K,  my long term MPG avg is climbing since the reset to ~38.3.   I occasionally see a non-highway trip around town where the car reports ~40+ mpg,  seldom 48 mpg though.   I doubt my long term will ever get much over 40 since I'm on the highway @ 65-70 regularly.

That's odd a shop with the proper equipment wouldn't perform the mod for a price and your disclaimer.  What was their rationale for denying the service?  I assume you offered to pay them for their time.   Maybe try an auto parts store with the proper scanner.  If you're ever in Dayton, OH look me up, it's literally a 5 min job.

Vonore - You nailed it!   Radiator fan not running,  so between your suggestion, pulling a p0480 code (fan 1 control circuit), and one YouTube video later,  I diagnosed the problem.   Per the YouTube video the fan control module has 3 wires, 2 large for power and ground,  and the smaller one for the pulse width modulated signal to tell the fan how fast to run.   Upon visual inspection, the control signal wire insulation looked slightly corroded, and sure enough it was open an inch from the connector.    Fortunately, there was enough wire on  the connector side to strip and tin,  and I soldered them together, heat shrank them,  and great joy was had.    A/C compressor now runs at idle, and I believe the fan runs anytime the A/C is on since I tested after sitting overnight.   A little disappointing the wire didn't hold-up to heat and time, but it could have gotten nicked over the last 10 years and corrosion set-in.

I've never been to Milan, MI other than passing thru on US 23 on the way to the UP to play in the snow.  

Many Thanks!

Jack in Ohio

I've had this issue for a couple years now, and lived with it.   A/C is ice cold while moving at any speed, as soon as I come to a complete stop, after a couple seconds, I can watch the ACC gauge drop from the mid-point to nearly the bottom of the display in conjunction with the warmer air progressively blowing from vents.   I'm presuming the compressor is disengaging.  It doesn't matter if in EV mode or the ICE is running.   I can force ICE mode by pushing on the gas pedal and brake simultaneously,  but doesn't matter.  After I start moving, and, after ~7s, the ACC usage meter increases and cold air returns.  I'm ready to let "the man" take a look, but thought I'd try the forum for any suggestions.   I was hoping the symptom was related to the "restoring EV mode" issue.....a FOMC programmed "feature" to preserve the HVB, however, I've implemented the EV restore successfully and no change. 

Thanks, 

Jack in Ohio

It should throw a code.  Have that read at the parts store or otherwise for a clue.   Also,  see another thread about restoring the EV mode on this board if you haven't done so yet.  Your car's age fits the profile.

Jack in Ohio

On 5/21/2016 at 5:54 PM, unglued94ta said:

So my car blows cold air as long as I'm driving. I've noticed in the last month that if I stop moving the air quickly goes warm. I bought a couple cans of recharge refrigerant but they won't take. In fact when the compressor kicks on, it feels like it takes just a bit and the can, that should be getting cooler, gets warmer. Yes I'm on the low side. Any ideas? Thanks for the help.

Did you ever figure-out the cause?   My (MMH) Hybrid is doing the exact same thing.  Fine while moving, compressor shuts off at idle.

Thanks, 

Jack in Ohio

All, 

Here's how you fix your issues with no EV mode................

On 6/29/2019 at 6:42 PM, allen84 said:

 

The config battery since last rebalance is probably the one I need to figure out how that works.     As for the config battery state of charge, I think I'll leave that as is.  That is probably a way for the battery to keep track of the current state of the battery charging level and health of the battery.   Changing that might mess with the battery level charge indicator on the dashboard, as it might go out of whack.   Again,  this is my guess.  I might be wrong until I know more info on how it works.  Going to have to call Ford and find a department where a person that specializes in this and knows more about it before I mess around with it.

Found this post, I forgot about the reconditioning function.   Read the 2nd post from acdii, perhaps the rebalance & reconditioning are one in the same.   Since my fix, I haven't experienced a recondition cycle,  my HVB barely ever gets above 60% SoC which seems a little odd.   

http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9335-high-voltage-battery-re-conditioning/

It's anyone's guess how the HVB & charging system will behave once the HVB nears the actual end-of-life.   Perhaps with more research or inquiries to Ford service, we could get the rationale behind the ~9 year mark.  There certainly could be ramifications for which we're not aware,  but personally I'll take my chances.   Once I reach the 10 year mark of car ownership, I consider the car a throw-away, and every year thereafter is a bonus.  This is not new for FMC , they sold the Escape hybrid ~2004-2010.  Similar technology I'd expect, maybe they characterized the HVB's life then, and took a conservative approach for the next gen hybrids.  

Maybe FMC monitors this board and we'll get an anonymous response...... 

On 6/18/2019 at 9:39 PM, allen84 said:

 

My mistake,  I misread that, I thought you were at 200k miles.   I agree your HVB is still good.  I hope it works for you.   I never thought I would fall in love with my car all over again, Oh how I've missed the EV green box expanding large upon me frequently now.

Process completed last night, I can confirm my EV mode is back!   Normal commute the last 6 months, car reported ~35mpg,  today 43.6mpg.   Thanks Allen!   This thread should be a sticky.    I have a sneaking suspicion this will also fix my A/C compressor not running at idle which I'm sure draws off the HVB. Another HVB preservation "engineering feature" I'm sure.  That symptom started last Summer.....very annoying in 90 degree stop and go traffic.  

Jack in Ohio

6 hours ago, allen84 said:

 

At 200k+ miles you've driven, the battery must have gone through a ton of charging cycles.   

 

I'm @ 135K miles,  so there should be life remaining.   

Allen, 

Wow, did your post hit home with me.   My '10 Milan started exhibiting this exact  symptom this Summer.   Normally, my Ohio Winter mpg drops to mid+ 30's, then Summer I climb back to low 40s with minimal hypermiling.    As it is now, hitting the 47 mph mark in EV is impossible unless going downhill.  The green EV gauge NEVER shows available EV power, as it did last Summer.   It was my understanding since the HVB is maintained between 20% - 80% SoC, it lasted the life of the car which is 200K+ miles IMO.  Mine has 135K purchased in 8/2009.   Can't wait to try this and get my "old" car back.  I assume you obtained this inside info from a Ford Tech?   Thanks for the post, will report back.

Jack in Ohio

Check the format of your SD card.  FAT32 or otherwise.  microSD should match.  In a Windows computer,  look at the File System parameter under properties of the device from the My Computer.  Check your owners manual for the system,  should say the desired format.   For my 2010, it was FAT32 for CDs I think.

I'm not familiar with Sync 3, but if Sync 3 has the Android Auto function in your menus, that will allow Waze or google maps to project onto your display.   At least my newer Chevrolet has that feature.  

More here for IoS :  https://techcrunch.com/2018/02/26/ford-adds-waze-to-its-sync-3-applink-for-ios-users/

You can never go wrong with Michelin IMO.

Jack in Ohio