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Change the 12 vdc battery. You needn't have replaced the brakes.

These transmissions had a problem with leaks where the two halves of the case met. Are you sure it's not there? Also, transmission oil does not need to be changed in this car. The manual says 100,000 miles for "automatic transmissions". This is not an automatic transmission. It's an eCVT which has no clutches, belts, bands, torque converter, shift solenoids or anything else to wear. It's only gears rolling on gears and should last a lifetime. It's suspicious that the leak happened after the oil change.

Are you sure you have successfully changed the HVB age?

Change the 12 vdc battery. That's the default action to take with multiple unconnected faults. It doesn't matter if the battery tests ok. The 2013+ FFHs had a problem with a bad bearing, It was not a transmission fluid pump. A recall should have been made but because it wasn't a safety issue Ford just waited out the warranty expirations. The transmissions are covered by the hybrid warranty for 8Y/100k m. or 10/150k m in CARB states. Are you under that warranty? Prior to 2013, Aisin, the Borg Warner of Japan made all of Ford's hybrid transmission. They were bullet proof. For 2013 Ford brought the manufacture in house and screwed it up. It looks identical to the Aisin but there were many bearing failures and also case seal leaks. I hope you don't have a problem with the replacement transmission digitally "hand-shaking" with the car. This is not a backyard mechanic project. Good luck.

Great job. Don't do any other maintenance unless the car needs it. Common high mileage problems are stuck throttle body and O2 sensors.

The throttle body may have carbon-ed up and stuck. They can be cleaned but for $70 it's easier to replace them. My car went to my grandson 3 years ago and was rear ended and totaled last spring with no injuries. My Tesla Model 3 is 3 1/2 years old. Go EV now with a Tesla. If it's too expensive, work harder or sell the house and live in the car. It's the "Revolutionary Future, Today".

You don't need to balance the HVB manually, the car does it automatically periodically. You can tell when it's doing this by the EV mode being inhibited for about 20 minutes, the ICE running continuously and the HVB charging to max. When it's finished it reverts to normal operation. If you go into reverse during this procedure it is cancelled and will probably do it over. Most who have done the software update say re-balancing occurs sometime after.

It sounds like you're still out of alignment. Lights for power steering ABS and Traction are not "typical. A weal 12 vdc battery can cause lots of strange problems. If it's more than a few years old change it no matter how it tests. You may also have a steering system problem.

Nobody has reported a problem.

The theory behind hybrids is to only run the ICE when there is significant demand. Acceleration, higher speed, Cat converter warm up, cabin warm up, hills, etc. At about 30 mph on level roads it will go about 1/2 mile in EV and then about 1/2 mile on ICE.

46 mph is the max EV speed. 50% is normal HVB charge level. Do not force EV mode, use ICE to accelerate. There are 8 different normal conditions that cause the ICE to run. About every 10k miles the ICE may run for about 20 minutes and charge the HVB to F. That's re conditioning.

The transmission is included in the 8 year, 100/150 k mile hybrid warranty.

The 150K change is for "automatic" transmissions. The FFH has an eCVT which is not an "automatic". There is hardly anything to wear in an eCVT. There are no belts, clutches, bands, valves or torque converters. Only gears rolling on gears.

If the high voltage battery (HVB) is completely discharged, only a Ford dealer can recharge it with special equipment that usually must be shipped to them. If the 12 vdc battery is discharged, replacing or recharging it may enable the car to start as Vonore stated.

There was a "Customer Satisfaction" software update 11 years ago 10 B 13 that may not have been done on your car. Check that first. It's a 15 minute job and if it was done there will be a record of it at Ford. Also you have other warnings there also. Replacing the 12 vdc battery will frequently fix them. There is also an electric vacuum pump that makes a lot of noise as it ages that has been a problem on Fords. Checking diagnostic codes DTCs should pinpoint the problem. Do not replace all the brake system components.

The only hybrids that use the same MG1, MG2, and planetary gear arrangement are/were Toyota, Ford and Nissan and they all had agreements with each other. It is a marvelous device and the ones Aisin made were bulletproof. Less so for the later Ford built ones circa 2013+.

They used Aisin's up until the 2013+ FFHs. I think Ford and Toyota traded patents to reach agreement. The Nissan was a Toyota eCVT type under license.

The volt wasn't what GM claimed. It could also operate in parallel mode. None of the other manufacturers transmissions are like Toyota/Ford's except Nissan which licensed it.

The Volt was a series/parallel planetary gear hybrid but in a different arrangement than the Toyota/Ford hybrid to avoid their patents. The Volt arrangement was not as elegant or efficient and may even have had an electric clutch. Toyota/Ford eCVTs have no clutches, bands, belts, brakes or torque converters. They are just two motors hooked up to the planetary gear, the ICE and the wheels with nothing but gears. Hardly anything to wear. My current Tesla Model 3 is even simpler. It is, IMO, the most advanced device on the planet

In HEVs, ( not PHEVs ) all the energy comes from fuel. The "ICE-generator-charge-discharge-motor-wheels" energy path of the EV cycle has more loss than the "ICE-wheels" path so EV should be AVOIDED above 40-50 mph. Higher speeds cost 6 mpg per 10 mph. Lower temperatures cost 2 mpg per 10º F. Headwinds ( and some crosswinds ) cost up to 3mpg per 10 mph. Noisy roads can cost 2 mpg. Heavy rain can cost up to 10 mpg. AC can cost over 10 mpg for a few minutes in a heat soaked car tappering off to 1-2 mpg. These effects are mostly cumulative and the inverse effects are also true. These are reasons the ICE may run: 1: Low HVB 2: HVB reconditioning ( 2010-12 ) 3: Evaporative emmissions check at start up 4: Speed over 46-62-86 mph depending on model and software. 5: Higher power demand such as acceleration 6: Cabin heater demand 7: Warmup of catalytic converter when cold and speed above 12 mph. ( 2010-12 ) 8: Use of "L" gear 9: The ICE is motorized with no fuel flow when coasting down steep hills and speed exceeds 46 mph or at any speed while brake depressed and HVB becomes full. For instance if you are coasting at 60 mph and put on the brake, when regen is not sufficient the brake pedal will call for higher motorizing rpm for compression or "jack" braking.?

Ford recommends that you run the car 30 minutes once a month to charge the 12 vdc battery. Charging the HVB takes only a few minutes. Otherwise no need to run the car. You will lose 7% efficiency (mpg) for every 10º F. colder temperature, 7% for each 10 mph headwind, a lot for wet or snowy roads and a lot for heating the cabin. 70% of all winds are apparent headwinds because of the vector sum of the wind and vehicle speeds. This affects all cars but when you're getting 40 mpg to start in the FFH you get down to 30 or below easily in cold weather. That's 25%. 25% less in a car getting 20 mpg is 15 mpg.

Read the Owners Manual and Owners Quick Guide twice. If you don't have them they are available on-line. 50% is the normal HVB level except when going down long hills or coasting on long off ramps or an approximately yearly event called reconditioning where it goes to 100% for about 20 minutes and the ICE does not shut off. Read about all the menus on the dash. There are 6 different mileage indicators including a trip meter that you don't have to reset that appears at each shutdown. There are 4 different dash displays, the best being "Empower".

The 2010-12 FFH has 207 d-cell NiMH cells in series. If a cell fails open circuit the car will not move. I have not heard of any of those failures. If it fails closed-circuit the HVB only loses a small percent of it's power/capacity. The US DOE did tests on two FFHs and found they had lost only 8% capacity after 160 k miles. Ford said the HVB should last the life of the car. I would not worry about the HVB. If at 15 years you have to replace the HVB for 3-4k it would be acceptable if the ICE is still OK and no rust. The principal cause of breakdown is throttle body sticking which leaves you at idle throttle and limp home mode. You can clean or replace them yourself for about $200. Read this thread: https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/13744-limp-mode-2010-ff-hybrid-code-p1aoc/?tab=comments#comment-112921

Some have had trouble resetting the age. Proof that it's been successful is re-accessing the proper page and seeing that the HVB age has been reset. Even ifthe age has been reset the weather is getting colder and mileage goes down then. Cycling every 1/2mile of EV mode at around 30 mph is normal operation after car is warm. HVB SOC should hover around the 50% mark. These are also reasons the ICE may run: 1: Low HVB 2: HVB reconditioning ( 2010-12 ) 3: Evaporative emmissions check at start up 4: Speed over 46-62-86 mph depending on model and software. 5: Higher power demand such as acceleration 6: Cabin heater demand 7: Warmup of catalytic converter when cold and speed above 12 mph. ( 2010-12 ) 8: Use of "L" gear

My car is gone to the Grandson 2 years ago but I think I remember there may not be a conventional thermostat in the FFH.