deo1929

It's been ages since I started this thread and posted. My Fusion has 116K miles on it. Since the engine replacement at 6K miles, I have had no issues with the sloshing sound. Hopefully everyone is getting either their issue resolved with the "fix", putting up with the sound, or have moved on to a different vehicle. Anyway... FYI.

Up for sale is a set of 17" aluminum alloy wheels that fit a 2006-2012 Ford Fusion or any vehicle with a 7-1/2" wide rim, 44mm backspace and 114mm (4-1/2") 5 lug bolt circle. When I received the wheels, the clear coat was scuffed and scratched. I refurbished the wheels by stripping the clear coat. Then I progressively sanded the machine marks out of the spokes and outer rim. I polished the spokes to a near mirror finish. I have around 15 hours of labor in each wheel. The center caps have been modified with a Ford logo versus the original Mercury logo. The wheels are unique from the original factory wheel. The reason I'm selling them is I went to a different wheel. I just finished reconditioning these wheels for resale. I repainted the ardent silver paint and polished the spokes and rim surface. They are in very nice condition. There are no TPMS sensors included. I'm asking $275 for the set. You can see them at the link below. Thanks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Wheels-Set-of-4-Ford-Fusion-Mustang-other-makes-models-high-polish-/121902924727?

Well, since I started this topic over 4 years ago, I should probably give an update. We've logged 83K on the car (77K on the replacement engine) and have yet to have the slosh return. This winter with it's sub-zero temps in central Indiana was a good test. I have noticed that the coolant level in the degas tank is about 1/2" above the "full" line. I haven't opend the cap to that since Ford replaced the engine. The level has remained the same. I guess it's a hit and miss kinda thing. I haven't heard of the new generation Fusion having this issue. Something had to have changed if it's no longer an issue. Oh well... I need to get my 68 Fastback off the rotisserie and on the road again.

I got my Fusion in November of '09. At 3,000 miles, a sloshing sound began in the dash on the passenger side. After multiple trips to the dealer for various attemts at solving the problem, Ford sent in a field engineer when it had 6,000 miles and was 3 months old. The engine was replaced (2.5L) and the problem went away. You can see the thread on this saga by searching "Sloshing Noise". Ford eventually claims it's a problem with the coolant tank and other plumbing (de-gas kit...don't remember the part or TSB number). Other warranty items were a Sync reflash, AC control reflash, and a broken driver's side inside door handle. I now am closing in on 60K. Hopefully, I won't have any other major issues.

The reason this problem of hearing coolant flow through the dash is becoming more prevalent is the design of the heating systems has changed. It used to be that your heat control knob/lever actually opened and closed a valve that allowed engine coolant to enter the heater core. When it was closed, there was no flow. Now the coolant flows through the heater core constantly and the "mixing" takes place in the dash HVAC box. This got started with the dual zone climate control several years ago. I have heard of this happening in the Malibu, Accord, and some Toyotas. Granted, it's probably not something that would damage the engine, but in my Fusion, it was LOUD and frequent, even while driving. If a car company is going to build a quality car, then that quality must be met on all levels, even if the sound is an "annoyance" issue. IMHO.

I have the same ticking sound in my engine. It seems to be less pronounced after getting up to operating temperature which makes sense with how valve lash (clearance) is done. However, ours sounds exactly like the rental Mazda6 my wife had on a business trip with the same 2.5 I-4 engine. Remember, the 2.5 engine and the 6 speed manual transmission are Mazda designed, not Ford designed. These engines have been around since the 2009 model year in Mazdas and in the Escape with no known problems, at least according to the Mazda forums. A friend of mine has a 2010 Chevy Equinox and at idle, standing 20 feet away, it sound like someone threw marbles in the top end of the engine, a combination of valve lash, and as FusionDiffusion stated, the direct injection fuel injectors are especially loud. It's apparently normal for those engines. My 2.7 I-4 Tacoma is a little noisy when it's cold too. So I'm not worrying too much about my engine at this point.

What throttle body did you replace the OEM with? Another OEM or aftermarket and if aftermarket, whose did you get? Thanks.

I was surprised to find the price of the "kit" was $475!!!! For a coolant recovery tank? I can't find what components make up the kit, but there's got to be more than just replacing the coolant recovery tank. That's a lot of money to pay out if you're out of warranty. Lot's of luck on getting it covered outside the warranty, even if previously documented. I've had that happen before where the problem was documented 1,000 miles before the warranty but 1,000 miles afterwards they wouldn't cover it, even with documentation. If Ford won't cover it, even with pre-warranty doucmentation, you've got 3 choices: 1. Drive it and forget it. 2. Pay to have it fixed. 3. Buy something else. : /

I believe your case is unique. I have 53K on my 2010 with no trans issues. However, Ford replaced the engine at 6K due to the "sloshing" sound in the dash (I started that thread here in Jan 2010). Ford gave me a rental car for 4 days. I would ask the dealer to provide you with transporation...either a rental or loaner, IMHO. Good Luck

I have an early 2010 SE with 6 speed manual. We average 29-30 MPG in mixed driving and 33-35 on the highway at 70 MPH. I calculate mileage by taking the miles divided by gallons. The trip computer is off on ours about 1-1.5 MPG on the high side. It will say 36 when in actuality I'm getting 34.5. So I don't use it for accurate MPG but more for a relative measurement.

I probably wouldn't have done the DRL's had the 2010 Fusion SE had the auto on feature. That was added in 2011. So the DRL's are a work-around for me.

It's a quick firmware modification. No parts. Just reprogramming. As far as pro/con of DRL's my wife usually drives to and from work during low light conditions in the morning and evening. And in central Indian, especially from October through March, we have a lot of low light days--overcast, mist, rain, snow, fog, etc. that reduce visibility. Granted, turning on the headlights accomplishes the same thing. However, the advantage to DRL's is that the headlights are on at a reduced voltage/amperage and hence the headlamps will last longer than turning them on. My wife feels more comfortable with DRL's. And if they help her to be seen and prevent a collision, then that fine with me. I suppose like many things in life, it's up to the individual what you like or don't like. All I can say is that if you want them on your Fusion, it's an easy add-on.

I'm not sure if the "shoulder" on the lug nut or the threads are the same, but Honda uses a hard rubber ring in their lug nuts to hold the wheel cover on like Fusion. You may want to check out those lugs, but I can't tell you where to get them other than the dealer. Maybe www.tirerack.com????

My wife has been telling me that she misses the DRL's that were on the '04 Corolla she had before the Fusion. After doing some checking, I contacted the local Ford dealer service manager about it. He said they haven't done it, but would be willing to give it a try. I made the appointment and took the car in. 20 minutes later and $47.50, I drive out of the dealer with daytime running lights. They run at a reduced light level. I could tell since it was just getting light outside when I left the dealer. The headlights definitely got brighter when I turned the lights on. The service adviser also said they would go out if the emergency brake was on. I tested it and they do go out when the E brake is on. So now my wife (and I) am happy. I don't know why they just don't turn them on from the factory, or add it to the setup menu with the perimeter lighting options for the keyless entry. At any rate, it can be done for little time and little money.

I was poking around the Ford website and noticed the base price of a 2012 Fusion SE went up substantially to the tune of almost $1000 over a 2011. Lo and behold, the 6 speed manual transmission is no longer offered, only the automatic. I guess I have a rare one then with the manual and Sun n Sync package. You can still get the manual with the Fusion S, but there are no options available, like Sync. So this means unless Ford offers a manual with the new 2013 ecoboost engine in the SE or SEL, this will be my last Fusion. My wife and I don't do automatics. But I have a feeling we'll be forced into one eventually because sticks aren't popular in the States and the EPA fuel mileage is better with an automatic. A sad day indeed.

Mark, Are you going to, or have you already, purchased an extended warranty in case this problem shows up in the cold months in the future?

I asked the service adviser and he said it was the caliper slides and not the caliper itself. So no warranty coverage. But I thought everything in the brake system should have been covered under warranty minus the pads. I guess because the caliper slides were not damaged and re-lubed, that there was no warranty coverage. I figure I've got less than 4K on my 3/36 warranty. After that's over, I'll deal with things myself.

I'd have done it myself, but my schedule is full and my wife travels quite a bit for her job. I'll keep an eye on the fronts and do them myself. I did wonder if the caliper was the problem then the pads should have been covered under warranty. I'll ask when I take it in to have the driver's side interior door handle and mechanism replaced that's on order.

Use this link to get the date. It's in the box below the bar code on the lower left side of the sticker. http://services.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=[put your VIN in here immediately next to the "vin=" with no brackets]

I checked out the website. Interestingly enough, there are more complaints on the 2010 Camry, especially transmission problems, than the 2010 Fusion. Hmmmm.

I had my 2010 Fusion in for "The Works" and an alignment today. It has 32,100 miles on it. I got a call from the dealer saying I had less than 1mm of pad left on the right rear. The pads were worn evenly on both sides. The left side wasn't as bad but still worn. The front pads have about 4-5 mm left on each side. I talked with the mechanic when I picked up the car. He said the caliper slides were sticking. He lubed them up and said it's all working smoothly now. He also said that if the caliper was binding, there would be uneven pad wear, which there wasn't. I've never had a car that the rear brakes wore out before the front. The mechanic said with the new version of ABS and electronic stability control, the system applies equal brake force on each corner. He said there is actually more rear brake bias. In other words, the rear brakes engage before the front. It may be nothing...but I thought I'd throw this out there among all the 2nd gen Fusion owners so find out if anyone else has had an issue. I didn't expect to spend $180 for a rear brake job at this point. Let's see....new engine at 6K...Sync system at 13K....rear brakes at 32K. Maybe I should buy the extended warranty.....

FYI.... the "no start" issue was resolved by a TSB for cars built before July 26, 2009. So your's is OK on that regard. MTL raises a good point. If you don't think you'll be at peace with the car, trade it in on a 2012 Focus. Personally, I believe there is a small percentage of Fusion owners who have experienced the problem and hence Ford isn't going to do anything to fix the problem. I love what Ford is doing with design, technology, and the improved quality of its car line, but customer service and responsiveness to the owners here on this forum has been a "D-". All it takes is a few ticked off owners to start posting reviews on Edmunds, KBB, and a few other auto websites and people will take notice.

Here we are approximately 15-16 months from the start of this whole mess and it appears there is no solution on the horizon. I personally think that Ford at least should contact the owners and explain the status of the solution. If they can't figure it out, then offer those with the problem an extended warrant of 6 year 100K warranty on the engine. If Ford is so sure that there's no harm done, then put your money where your mouth is. I know my slosh seems to be solved with the new engine, but that's no guarantee it won't return. It's certainly disappointing that a company the size of Ford can't come up with a solution...or maybe WON'T because of the cost. I was thinking about getting a new Focus to replace my truck. Now I'm not so sure... For those with the problem, and I know it's asking a lot, keep calling your dealer WEEKLY to get an update. Somewhere along the line the squeaky gear will get the grease.

BTW...how did you put the picture of your Fusion on your signature? I can't seem to find a place to add a photo. Tks.

Your wheel has both clear AND paint. The surface of the spokes and outer rim are machined aluminum. The surface on the inside of the spokes and rim are painted "ardent" silver. This company may be able to help... http://paintscratch.com/ But depending where your scratch is, paint may not help. To remove the scratch in the machined surface is quite involved. (Believe me. I just got done doing a complete set of wheels for my Fusion.) It would mean stripping the clear coat off, using sand paper to work the scratches out starting with 120 grit and moving up...220...400..600...800...1500...2000 and then using polishing compound to remove the micro scratches. Then the wheel has to have some protection put back on it (clear coat paint/power or something like Eastwood's "shark skin"). Your best bet might be to check around locally to find out if there is a company that refurbishes wheels. You could purchase one on eBay (see link below) and put it on your car. Then keep the old reconditioned on as a spare in case it meets a curb again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-FUSION-17-2010-10-FACTORY-OEM-WHEEL-RIM-3797-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb3aa0723QQitemZ200582760227QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Hope this helps