timwil56
Fusion Member-
Posts
411 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Profile Information
-
Region
U.S. Mountain
-
My Fusion
2017
Recent Profile Visitors
2,608 profile views
timwil56's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
36
Reputation
-
Fusion14SELECO reacted to a post in a topic: 'Potentially loose' steering wheel triggers Ford recall of 1.4 million cars
-
timwil56 reacted to a post in a topic: 'Potentially loose' steering wheel triggers Ford recall of 1.4 million cars
-
timwil56 reacted to a post in a topic: 'Potentially loose' steering wheel triggers Ford recall of 1.4 million cars
-
Found it...
-
timwil56 reacted to a post in a topic: Window Deflectors: OEM vs Weathertech
-
Debating between 2017 and 2018 model
timwil56 replied to RonRN18's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
If the changes you list are important to you, then purchase a 2018. I'd save the money and get the 2017, because once the need to move them for incoming 2018's the discounts or the dealerships willingness to negotiate increases. -
The system periodically reboots to install updates, this is normal.
-
How to get remote start to work
timwil56 replied to greenlight2292's topic in Alarms, Keyless Entry, Locks & Remote Start
I cant help with your programming question, but checking here will list if the car was built with remote start installed. https://www.etis.ford.com/ -
Thanks, I didn’t think of that. They didn’t have stainless, I bought nylon threaded and a nylon washer. As I was installing, noticed two more studs, so I don’t think it’s a missing nut. Maybe something rattling under the aero guard. I’ll have to wait until I can get the car off the floor to check it out. Thanks for the help.
-
As I stated in my original post and once again before this post, I checked Ford Parts and could not locate the under body composite material guards or the corresponding parts. fusionff attached a link to a dealership parts list and I'm narrowing it down from that. The stud/bolt I'm referring to looks to be 3/8 or 7/16, so I'm going to pick up a washer and a couple of nuts at the hardware store and install. Hopefully the slight looseness of the passenger side under body cover is the source of my rattle.
-
Thanks, I just briefly looked at it, I’ll take a closer look later.
-
timwil56 reacted to a post in a topic: Parts Identification
-
I'm searching for the source of the rattling noise on my 2017. It may be from inside the door panel, but I'll have to wait until January, (and a 1300 mile drive with the noise) when I move to AZ where my tools and ramps are. I also believe that the sound may be originating from a loose aero shield or heat shield under the car. The dealership states they cannot hear the rattling and that's another story posted in another thread. As best I could, I reached under the car this morning and the passenger side composite material aero shield has some flex to it in the center and it appears one nut is missing. The bolt/stud is threaded and has a four sided 1/4" square end on it. On the same shield is a plastic nut that's about 1/2" long. I didn't remove it to see if was attached to a similar bolt/stud, but appears it could be the same. I searched the Ford Parts site and could not find any aero shield parts and accessories. My request is: can anyone assist me with locating part numbers or explosion views of the under body aero shields and corresponding parts. The view will likely show the nut that screws on to the stud. Thanks in advance.
-
Repair manual
timwil56 replied to Torontofuse's topic in Maintenance, Recalls and TSB (Technical Service Bulletins)
-
timwil56 reacted to a post in a topic: Repair manual
-
Repair manual
timwil56 replied to Torontofuse's topic in Maintenance, Recalls and TSB (Technical Service Bulletins)
I'm wondering if anyone can post as a PDF or downloadable attachment, the procedure for the removal of the front door panel on a 2017, it's likely the same for 2012-2017. I was looking at the door and at a quick glance, I don't see any exposed screws, so I'm assuming some plastic trim pieces have to be removed first, then arm rest, etc, etc... My trouble with getting the dealership to confirm and repair a rattle in my passenger door is explained in the Interior, Noisy Armrest/Center Console thread. Thanks. -
All I can say is good luck getting the dealership to confirm and fix a squeak. Long story, so stay with me. I have a rattle in the passenger door, I took it to the dealership, had a tech ride with me and the mechanic could not hear it, even though I could. The service advisor said come back on a Saturday and a younger tech, with better hearing will ride with you. I brought it in the following Saturday and the guy was on vacation. The rattle was very loud that day, so I asked if the car runner could ride with me to confirm the noise. Before we left the lot he said he heard it and when we got on the road it was even louder. I made an appointment for the following Saturday. Once again, I had to have a tech ride with me to confirm the issue and for a second time, he confirmed the rattling noise and told the service advisor. They couldn't work on it that day, so I made an appointment for yesterday. When I arrived he asked if the noise was still there and I told him yes. About an hour later he came in to the waiting area and told me that the two techs that took the car out to confirm the issue (for a third time) could not hear anything, so there was nothing they could do. I wasn't happy and let him know, the damn issue had been confirmed twice! My theory is: dealerships don't make money on warranty repairs because they get paid by the shop time Ford has determined it takes to do the job and to remove a door panel, locate and repair squeaks and rattles, takes far more time than Ford will pay. I think they're giving me the run around. All my tools are at my home in AZ and after I retire in January, I'll pull the panel off myself and fix the problem, but I have to live with it until then. So good luck getting your squeak issue repaired.
- 10 replies
-
- armrest
- center console
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with: