jona2125

Should be a Blue wire for 12v+ and a black/yellow for 12v-. Enjoy the V1. I have a Passport Max and have it direct wired to key on as well, though I did mine from the fuse box. Optionally you could wire it into the fuse box if you go out and buy just a regular phone cord and cut one end for power and ground wiring. Though I think the route you are taking is just as effective.

Also installed a glovebox and visor leds yesterday. Wired the glovebox light into the same power source as the overhead lights. Used a momentary normally closed switch to actuate it. Placed it where the hinges are for the glovebox and worked very well. Can't see the switch which is nice. It stays off normally even when you open because of the way I wired it (preferred) so when I need to see in there I just hold the switch up for the dimmer/interior lights on and works perfect.

Yea had the same issue. Solution above was correct. I put felt along the edge it to keep it from doing it. Solved it perfectly.

Okay so I finally went ahead with my plans to do a dome light override modification. I've always liked getting in a car and not being blinded at night I just find it convenient. The procedure is really simple and if anyone wants to do it, the total cost for me was $6 for a switch and crimp connections and some 18 gauge wire. Pictures are self explanatory but the method is to pull of the A post cover on the passenger side and disconnect the big plug. Snip the grey/purple wire, peeling back enough tape to give you crimping room, and attach a crimp at each open end of the wire. Then you crimp two 5 foot lenghts of your new wire onto each crimp and run them up the A post and across the headliner to the map light/overhead compartment. Once that is done you can take the overhead compartment out and make your hole for your switch. I got mine at radioshack, it used a 3/4 hole and was the flushest I could find. You can install the switch anywhere you want though so don't take wire lenghts literally. I considered somewhere near the dash but didn't find anywhere I liked. Install the switch then solder on the two wire leads and then tuck in the excess before re-installing the whole unit. Then you're good to go. All lights are functional when the switch is off, ie when you turn the light on manually with its corresponding button.

Looks good. I have DDM 55w 5000k Fogs and Low beams. I love them. Such a difference. I had 50w 6000k that cost me well over $200 for just the high beams but the DDM kit for both lows and fogs was only $100 with quick shipping and blows the other kit out of the water. These cars definitely need Xenons, the halogens are horrible. I couldn't even see 10 feet down the road with the stock ones at all. It was very unsafe. I upgraded and can see everything so much clearer, and I have yet to be brighted out.

Thought how the regulators worked, they did all that Its part of the regulator for pressure sense even though I haven't seen that used before, my 2010 doesn't have that feature and haven't seen it on the 2011 either. Every Fusion has the same parts concerning the regulator and window motor though. The difference is the wiring harness based on the model because there are other connectors connected to it based on if you have the sony system and puddle lamps and what not. The SJB is probably different because how these Global Open/Close bits work is the SJB turns on a relay much like the accessory power when you take the key out although it could just be the same SJB and use that same relay but anyways the SJB gets a signal saying that you held unlock sending polarity to the window regulator and motors to bring the windows down. Same for holding lock. I know the Focus could do this by user preference, its on a site somewhere on how to do it, but basically you put the key in, hold the window switch up for so long then down for so long, get out and try it and each window you did that process to would go up/down by holding lock/unlock.

I was thinking about getting the factory Michelin All-Season tires siped on my 2010 Fusion SEL I-4. Anybody have any experience with this?

Yea when I get the time next week I will explore the options of what can be done about it. That would be a nice feature for sure.

I'm definitely interested in doing this as well. I will go and ask the dealer if they are able to do this when I get the time

Looks good. I have replaced my 50w 6000k low beams and 35w 6000k fog lights that cost me over $400 total for with some $40-a-kit DDM Raptor V2 55w 5000k. The 6 was just too blue for my taste so I went with 5 and absolutely love it. Haven't had an issue yet and no I am not running a harness, the stock wiring is well enough to handle the ignition surge of the ballast. Here is a video to show how they look (please excuse the harsh language used, it was a long stressful day with the install and everything else so I was kind of venting) Video

Just curious if its just a change made by the ford diagnostic computer tech because thats how DRL's are shut off, the dealership hooks into the SJB and turns them on or off. So since the global open feature exists in the system (reffering to the lincolns line of cars to be able to do it) I think there is potential we can accomplish it on the fusion.

I'm not disagreeing with you at all on this topic just throwing out my experiences. The kits I have used personally draw power from the headlight switch for each headlight individually, I have never used a relay. The kits I have worked on are all types, relayed with a plug for each OEM headlight connector, single plug relay, single plug dual ballast, dual ballast dual plug and single ballast single plug dual bulbs. To get back on the topic of this post it sounds to me like its not a relayed system because a relay would eliminate what is happening 99% of the time. Just sounds to me that the ballast is getting voltage surge and dips causing it to go into protect mode when they first fire up, especially right when you start the car. A relay will cure this issue most likely.

Not true I have seen kits that have run on the 1 plug. The relay is what connects it to the battery to avoid having this problem.

The wattage plays a big role in this situation. If he is using a 35w kit with an analog ballast (sometimes digital has this problem too) and it is one of the kits that uses one headlight socket the current draw when the headlight comes on puts one ballast into safe mode because of insufficient power. When they fire up the draw a lot of power and running that on one plug can cause this problem which should be fixed by a relay. This is just a hunch on what seems to be going on though I'm not saying this is the problem.

I'm looking into it currently. Along with adding LED bulbs I was going to add a brake light pulser