con_fusion

Wow... nice and low. My 2010 SEL has 122,500 miles

Thank you. There really hasn't been a a vibration. The steering has been stable. You can hear it at low speed but more noticeable > 50MPH. One particular freeway interchange goes up and banks to the right and it is definitely louder driving through that area. Since I got the tires at Costco, I had them check to see if there was anything wrong with the tire or balancing. Everything looked good to them but the tires only have 2000 miles on them. A bit puzzled. I'd hate to change the bearing and hub only to find it was the CV joint.

I haven't noticed any typical clicking or anything with a low speed turn. It's more noisy on a gentle curve to the right at 50mph. I'm not sure that could indicate a CV issue or not. They keep telling me it's fine but when you've been driving the car for 10 years and it sounds noisy you know something is off.

Thanks, I replaced the 3 mounts a couple of years ago.

I wanted to give an update on my Fusion. I went ahead and replaced the front rotors and pads with new Motorcraft parts. Still heard noise > 50 mph that sounded like a wheel bearing on the left front. Had the dealer check again. They didn't really hear it. I kept driving it but it still seemed noisy. I took it to an independent mechanic and they checked it. They think everything is solid and don't see a bearing issue. They said it's safe to drive. They feel the noise is coming from the tires which are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+. Same tires I had before. I know some of you have had those tires, do they seem excessively noisy to you? I'm not sure I'm convinced it's the tires but I guess time will tell. There has been no vibration or instability at all when driving. Thanks

My Fusion has 121K miles and brake pads have never been done so I know they are close to needing it. There is also a bit of rotor warpage in the front when you come to a low speed stop you can feel a bit of hit/miss. I've had some road noise coming from the left front. Which is rotational, almost like a flat spot on a tire. New tires and front end alignment but the noise is still there. Appears to be getting more noticeable. Took it to the dealer and they "didn't hear anything". They checked the suspension and wheel bearing and everything seemed "solid." But... The noise seems more pronounced when in a curve in either direction. Thinking of trying a different dealer. Does this seem like the type of noise that could be caused by worn pads and rotors? Or is it more likely the wheel bearing? Appreciate your thoughts.

Ordered the speaker as shown above from arrow for $9 and installed...again...all is fixed now.

I've had this speaker go out for like the 4th time. So I can order this thing from Arrow and at least it will be cheaper. Has anyone found an alternate speaker to use that worked better or more reliably? Thanks

An update to my situation - I replaced the one bad injector for cylinder 4 and everything went well and the car is running fine. A couple of things came up that I might rethink if I have to do this again for any reason. I paid a bit more getting the part from the dealer vs. ordering on Amazon. Amazon prices were ~ $33.00 per injector. - Of course I had to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the fuel rail and injectors. Even with instructions, the tricky part was figuring out I needed to detach the EGR valve from the bracket that goes to the intake manifold and remove two bolts under that area for the manifold support bracket. The PCV vent hose was a pain trying to get it undone from the top of the intake. A good set of clamp pliers to free up both hands would have been nice. -Where the injectors are, there is a well with a gap between the injector and the edge of the port which allows dirt to get in there. Next time I need to use some compressed air and blow that gap out really well before removing the fuel rail and injectors. I was able to clean the dirt off where it had collected around the lower O rings. Then I had to carefully wipe down in the injector port to remove residual stuff. -Speaking of O rings... The injectors have what looks like a slightly smaller blue O ring on top and a slightly larger red one on the bottom. I purchased the recommended Motorcraft O ring kit (10 pcs) which is supposed to replace both the upper and lower injector O rings. They were black and appeared to all be the size of the upper blue ones and not the slightly larger red ones on the bottom. I was envisioning replacing all of the bottom ones since they were removed from the injector ports. Since there was this size issue and the red O rings seemed in good shape, I just cleaned them, oiled them slightly and didn't replace them. Hopefully that won't cause problems later. -I replaced my spark plugs at the same time and I noticed the plugs I removed had a yellow dot on the tip. I read somewhere that they paint them at the factory to mark if the item were the original plugs. Does this mean those plugs were the originals? Cause I have a work order when they supposedly changed them at about 70K while my car was still under the prepaid maintenance program. Here I am assuming the plugs were changed out when they may not have been. Anyway, all in all, it took me longer than someone experienced doing this process but I'm glad things worked out and the car seems to be running well now. Thanks

Thanks. It was the injector itself I ohmed. Any reason to think all injectors would need to be replaced? Or is this kind of a rare thing?

Thanks. There were no obvious signs of wiring problems. I was able to slip my skinny fingers around the fuel rails to unlock the electrical connector on the #4 & #5 injectors. After checking the diags (KG5) from the service manual it said the resistance across the injector connectors should be between 11-18 ohms. I got no reading on the #4 injector. I checked the resistance across the connectors for the #5 injector and it measured 11.5 ohms which was expected. At this point, it looks like the #4 injector is bad. Part is not too expensive but I would have to remove the intake manifold and fuel rails to replace the injector. I suppose this would be pretty expensive at the dealer. If I do tackle this I'm wondering if I should change the plugs. Not sure if it would be worth it to replace the coils also, that might be overkill. Maybe it would be best to just replace the injector and plugs.

Thank you. Here's a little more info. I ran home at lunch to put the code reader on to see what popped up. Under stored codes it has - P0204 Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 4.... ☹️ Under pending codes it has - 1/2 - P0204 Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 4 and 2/2 - P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

On my 2010 3.0L this morning with 105,000 miles, it started fine. I made one stop and it suddenly felt funny and began running rough. Saw that the CEL was flashing. I was only .5 miles from home so I drove it there slowly. Turned it off. Started it again. The CEL was on solid but the idle felt rough. Left it parked, took another car to work. I have a code checker I will connect later to see what codes I have. Are there any special considerations on troubleshooting this? Planning to connect the code reader to see what codes are present. The plugs are only 35K old, the coils have not been changed so I suppose that might be a possibility. If a coil is bad, I assume all should be replaced at the same time. My concern is I have seen situations like this where the PCM was bad and coils were replaced and went bad again. So I want to make sure I check things in the right order. Thanks!

The torque strut mount is typically the “dog bone” mount underneath the car. If you have a set of ramps you can get under there and see it.

I can't really tell from the description which mount they are talking about. You could take it back and have them specifically show you. If I had to guess I would say it is the mount that attaches at the transmission. That is where the bulk of my problem was. It was also the most difficult to get to and replace. I have a 3.0L and so my mounts may be slightly different but they are in about the same spot as yours. Take a look at this post which references another on a different Fusion site. From the pictures you should be able to do some inspection yourself as well - V6 Rough Idle

After correctly installing the far right passenger side vent so it fit into the air duct, it made that whole piece a lot more stable. It really didn't make any rattling noise after that. I still got some thin weather strip and slipped it in between the two white air duct pieces. It seems quiet so far after test driving it. So it may be good now.

An update after my airbag was replaced. Have a rattle in the dash, dealer tech couldn't figure anything out and they asked me to bring it back to remove the dash again. I removed my glove box and too a look. In literally a few minutes of poking around I think I may have found the problem. There is a hard plastic airduct that goes right by the airbag. Two pieces of ducting come together and it looks like the foam insulation between them is gone allowing them to bump together. It was easy for me to move the piece that goes over to the passenger side cause it to bang the other piece and make noise. Maybe I'll look at a parts diagram and see if there is an actual part that goes there although I don't want to take the dash apart myself to fix it. Here is a picture of the area I'm talking about, the top two pictures show that duct: loose air duct I also discovered that they put the far right passenger side vent in upside down and it wasn't making contact with the duct (bottom picture): disconnected passenger side vent I think I will look for a way to insert some foam between the two pieces of duct work and see if that resolves the rattle.

Wow! I looked a video online of removing the dash on the 2010-2012 and it's definitely a pain.

I have an update. Had my car at the dealer all day. The tech was checking it periodically throughout the day trying to pinpoint the source of the rattle. So far he was not able to find it. They want to have me bring it back when we can schedule some time for them to remove the dash again. He said the tech mentioned that sometimes when cars as old as mine have the dash removed, they can lose some of the original tension on reassembly and things don't fit quite as tight as they were. Hopefully this doesn't happen to others. I may remove the glove box and take a look this weekend. The sound seems to be under the storage area on the center of the dash but they didn't have to remove that itself to move the dash back. They only remove the dash partially I think.

I dropped my 2010 off last Friday and they scheduled the work for yesterday (wed) and they told me they were going to have to remove the dash also. They said 4 hours but obviously a lot of work. I drop off the rental, pick up my car and two blocks down the street I have a major rattle coming from the dash... You can imagine the dialog in my car... It went something like... FFFFFFFFFFFF*********************************!!!!! So I have to call them this morning and see about getting it checked. It sounds like its coming from the center toward the front windshield. You would think given the amount of work involved and the possibility of leaving something loose, they would take their time at each step and make sure all is tight, all parts are in place before moving on. oh well...

I also got a voicemail yesterday saying that I needed to drop my car off at the dealer ASAP.

7 months now with a rental... Received a text yesterday saying parts had been sent to my dealer and I needed to drop off my car immediately... But the dealer said the text was erroneously sent to 80 of their customers when they only had parts for 7 vehicles... Mine was not one of them....

First, let me say your engine bay looks very nice and clean. Did you clean that yourself and how did you do it? So I have the same 3.0 DOHC in my 2010 but I have not replaced the spark plugs myself. This video shows the process and he seemed to remove the fuel line connection in the front - spark plug change By the "hose on the back", you don't mean the PCV vent hose shown in this post? - PCV replacement - If that's it, I think you can remove the clamp and loosen the connection at the top but leave the hose bottom connected to the PCV valve.

I had a Ford in house loaner that was a Fusion but I had to return it since they were only allowing so many miles on it and they didn't have any more in house loaners available. They said they were starting to see some airbag parts come in. So they sent me to Enterprise and I've been driving a Nissan Rogue (which I don't really like). I asked about the parts coming in thinking they may have been for the earlier years like 2008, 2009 but they told me they had seen some for a 2010MY (which mine is) but they don't know exactly how they are being prioritized. They said one customer had a loaner for a week and their parts came in. Lucky them... Nothing really new here just frustrated this process is taking this long.

Geez, I think you're right. I couldn't tell if something was connected on the bottom of the degas bottle. Important information to see that hose is bent around and comes back in the picture.