Oldguy16

Had the same problem, it was the throttle body. Went to pass a car, engine just shut to idle, and I had to roll off the road. When I restarted the car, nothing was on and all was fine, but when it happened, the wrench light went on. Dealer replaced throttle body and accelerator pedal sensor. Has been fine since.

If you're looking for warranty, DDM will honor it, but you have to ship the old ones back, and its just annoying which is why I say buy another pair. Look any of these kits, off ebay, ddm, vvme, wherever, are almost all the same, and probably made in the same factory in China, all with different badges. You want a real kit buy a Phillips setup, otherwise, even Morimotos are nothing special to speak of and 4 times the price. I stick with DDM because they seem to be the best value with the best service, where ebay sellers have none, and you can contact DDM via email quickly. If you install a DDM kit properly it should last you a few years minimum.

A much disputed topic so I will give my OPINION. I buy all my kits from ddmtuning.com. Have I had any problems, not yet, and I've ordered a total of around 20 kits from them. Each time there was a problem it turned out to be the wiring. Are these kits cheap? Absolutely, they're throw away kits, its more aggravation to use the lifetime warranty than to just buy a new one. But I've had the same ones for 2 years now and haven't changed them. Of course much better kits are out there, but will cost you a good penny. There's also the debate about putting HID's in the halogen projector housing. I personally think they look better than many cars that come stock with HID's, but again that's me. I would say give DDM a shot, and I always go with the 55w kits. They will take 2 weeks to get to the east coast, but well worth the price. They are a good value.

As far as I've read the new 2.0 is 0-60 in 7 and the 10-12 Sport is around 6.7. At that point its a drivers race, and not really a noticeable difference. The 2.0 is still fast for its size, and it may not be the fastest Fusion but probably a better value than the 3.5 since the mpg's are definitely better. I'll put it this way, you won't be taking a 2.0 to the drag strip, but neither would you the sport really. Not to mention though, if you did buy the 2.0, you can bring it somewhere to have it tuned, and you can get a lot more power from the turbo than Ford gives. Is this safe? Totally up to you, mpg's will also decrease, but I remember reading somewhere that Ford maxed out that engine at 300hp, in which case I'm sure it would be faster than the Sport. Is that worth it for a daily driver, losing the reliability and fuel mileage? Probably not, but you can do whatever you want to your car, hence why the aftermarket industry is so large. The 2.0 is fast, still faster than most cars on the road when you actually look while you're driving. I don't think with either you'd be disappointed.

That sounds like your lights are mis aimed. The light ouput should be significantly better. the blue tint is minimal

I wasn't sure if it was an ecu property or not but thanks! I guess its no possible then, but it was just a thought. I still think I'm gonna get the tune anyway. I haven't heard anybody say they were disappointed, and it may be worth it.

Good stuff man, thanks for the video too. I have an intake, and I'm gonna order the tuner soon. I have the 3.0 but I figure itll be about a half a second slower than yours. You think it would be effective to change vvt to 3500rpms? If steeda can do that? I'm already having the governor removed, and obviously throttle response and shifting changed for a premium tune, but I was trying to think of other ways that may help the car to be a bit quicker.

Can't be stock, what do you have done? That's a damn good time.

I'm assuming you already went to the track. I believe the 3.0 runs like a 15.2 stock. As far as the tuner, I doubt it makes that much of a difference, especially for the cost. I have the Steeda intake and I just love the sound. Maybe a tad more torque.

My Dad's Fusion sport went through 3 of the goodyear tires, all got bubbles in them and had to be replaced. I have no idea why yours are blowing out like that, but it could be something dumb. I can tell you, I switched to Michelin Pilot sport A/S and couldn't be happier. Michelin makes an excellent tire, so maybe you just got two bad ones, but check the other really closely for bubbles, and obviously keep checking the pressure. If the pressure is too low the tire will heat up and blowout. Then again, maybe you got a bad batch. See how the fronts do and then I would probably swap all the tires to something else.

I tried to find the brightest reverse lights I could find. I have never seen brighter than the ones I have, they're 28led bulbs. Much brighter than stock, but the housings don't allow for much light to be put on the road. It's meant to scatter light everywhere for people to notice, not to illuminate unfortunately.

Well that also makes sense. Thanks for your help! One last question, what do you think about spring spacers? for the rear? My goal is to eliminate sag, and I couldn't find cargo springs, but I did find a thread on ford fusion club that people used coil spacers to eliminate the sag.

Makes sense. What about the end links? What do they exactly do or help with? By the way thanks for the help =)

Hey everyone, I'm thinking about buying the steeda rear swaybar, the street one. Anybody with it who can tell me if it really does stiffen the rear suspension? I hate how the car sags in the back with 4 people. Also is it worth buying with the end links? This I don't know much about.

I believe radioshack sells non polarity capacitors, so you just put them in the positive that goes to the light I believe. But I'm not 100% sure. You can always google a diagram and find some well explained illustrations.