Oldguy16

Had the same problem, it was the throttle body. Went to pass a car, engine just shut to idle, and I had to roll off the road. When I restarted the car, nothing was on and all was fine, but when it happened, the wrench light went on. Dealer replaced throttle body and accelerator pedal sensor. Has been fine since.

If you're looking for warranty, DDM will honor it, but you have to ship the old ones back, and its just annoying which is why I say buy another pair. Look any of these kits, off ebay, ddm, vvme, wherever, are almost all the same, and probably made in the same factory in China, all with different badges. You want a real kit buy a Phillips setup, otherwise, even Morimotos are nothing special to speak of and 4 times the price. I stick with DDM because they seem to be the best value with the best service, where ebay sellers have none, and you can contact DDM via email quickly. If you install a DDM kit properly it should last you a few years minimum.

A much disputed topic so I will give my OPINION. I buy all my kits from ddmtuning.com. Have I had any problems, not yet, and I've ordered a total of around 20 kits from them. Each time there was a problem it turned out to be the wiring. Are these kits cheap? Absolutely, they're throw away kits, its more aggravation to use the lifetime warranty than to just buy a new one. But I've had the same ones for 2 years now and haven't changed them. Of course much better kits are out there, but will cost you a good penny. There's also the debate about putting HID's in the halogen projector housing. I personally think they look better than many cars that come stock with HID's, but again that's me. I would say give DDM a shot, and I always go with the 55w kits. They will take 2 weeks to get to the east coast, but well worth the price. They are a good value.

As far as I've read the new 2.0 is 0-60 in 7 and the 10-12 Sport is around 6.7. At that point its a drivers race, and not really a noticeable difference. The 2.0 is still fast for its size, and it may not be the fastest Fusion but probably a better value than the 3.5 since the mpg's are definitely better. I'll put it this way, you won't be taking a 2.0 to the drag strip, but neither would you the sport really. Not to mention though, if you did buy the 2.0, you can bring it somewhere to have it tuned, and you can get a lot more power from the turbo than Ford gives. Is this safe? Totally up to you, mpg's will also decrease, but I remember reading somewhere that Ford maxed out that engine at 300hp, in which case I'm sure it would be faster than the Sport. Is that worth it for a daily driver, losing the reliability and fuel mileage? Probably not, but you can do whatever you want to your car, hence why the aftermarket industry is so large. The 2.0 is fast, still faster than most cars on the road when you actually look while you're driving. I don't think with either you'd be disappointed.

That sounds like your lights are mis aimed. The light ouput should be significantly better. the blue tint is minimal

I wasn't sure if it was an ecu property or not but thanks! I guess its no possible then, but it was just a thought. I still think I'm gonna get the tune anyway. I haven't heard anybody say they were disappointed, and it may be worth it.

Good stuff man, thanks for the video too. I have an intake, and I'm gonna order the tuner soon. I have the 3.0 but I figure itll be about a half a second slower than yours. You think it would be effective to change vvt to 3500rpms? If steeda can do that? I'm already having the governor removed, and obviously throttle response and shifting changed for a premium tune, but I was trying to think of other ways that may help the car to be a bit quicker.

Can't be stock, what do you have done? That's a damn good time.

I'm assuming you already went to the track. I believe the 3.0 runs like a 15.2 stock. As far as the tuner, I doubt it makes that much of a difference, especially for the cost. I have the Steeda intake and I just love the sound. Maybe a tad more torque.

My Dad's Fusion sport went through 3 of the goodyear tires, all got bubbles in them and had to be replaced. I have no idea why yours are blowing out like that, but it could be something dumb. I can tell you, I switched to Michelin Pilot sport A/S and couldn't be happier. Michelin makes an excellent tire, so maybe you just got two bad ones, but check the other really closely for bubbles, and obviously keep checking the pressure. If the pressure is too low the tire will heat up and blowout. Then again, maybe you got a bad batch. See how the fronts do and then I would probably swap all the tires to something else.

I tried to find the brightest reverse lights I could find. I have never seen brighter than the ones I have, they're 28led bulbs. Much brighter than stock, but the housings don't allow for much light to be put on the road. It's meant to scatter light everywhere for people to notice, not to illuminate unfortunately.

Well that also makes sense. Thanks for your help! One last question, what do you think about spring spacers? for the rear? My goal is to eliminate sag, and I couldn't find cargo springs, but I did find a thread on ford fusion club that people used coil spacers to eliminate the sag.

Makes sense. What about the end links? What do they exactly do or help with? By the way thanks for the help =)

Hey everyone, I'm thinking about buying the steeda rear swaybar, the street one. Anybody with it who can tell me if it really does stiffen the rear suspension? I hate how the car sags in the back with 4 people. Also is it worth buying with the end links? This I don't know much about.

I believe radioshack sells non polarity capacitors, so you just put them in the positive that goes to the light I believe. But I'm not 100% sure. You can always google a diagram and find some well explained illustrations.

Don't buy the error eliminators, it won't work. What you need I believe is to wire a capacitor into the circuit. I believe the 4700uf capacitor is what you need. You can buy it at a local radio shack. The capacitor will provide your hid's with a constant voltage and therefore they won't shut off. Also, try turning on the hid's before you start the car, that works too. Yes I'm aware that isn't great for them, but cheap ddm kits like I have, or the ebay ones, are easily replaceable 3 years from now. I'm about 2.5 years with mine, and they still work fine. The ballast is fine. 9 times out of 10, its the ground, the other one time, you need a capacitor. There is actually such a small percentage of bad ballasts, its usually the wiring.

I haven't actually done it, but I think the pipes are 2.25" center inlet to center outlet. Btw, good choice of mufflers, if you do it, make sure to post a video with the sound. This is for the v6, I'm not sure about the I4.

=) Thank you. A relay is only necessary for hi/low kits where they draw their power from one wire rather than from each headlight. You would need a relay when having a hi/low kit which could draw up to 12amps from one headlight, which is not enough play room on the stock wiring. Hence why the Hi/low kits always comes with a relay and the others don't.

Do you have DRL enabled now? If so you do need to have them disabled because DRL pulse a signal to the headlight and at a slightly lower wattage. HID's need a constant supply of power to function. I believe you can put 4000uf capacitors in the circuit and that should work. But its alot easier to just have the DRL disabled.

Definitely agreed, buddy of mine used those top end PIAA's, which were ok for halogens but it really was night and day switching from them to HID's, HID's are just far superior, double the brightness of the best PIAA's.

With my 55w kits in both my low beams and fog lights, I have had absolutely no issues at all. They are about two years old now and still are just as good as the day I put them in. If you go and look up a wire gauge chart, that shows rating for a 12v circuit and what each size wire can handle for the length of the run, you will see precisely why Ford put 15 amp fuses per headlight. The wire is 18awg, and its about 10 feet from the fuse box to the switch, to the lights, maybe a tad more. 18awg for a 10 foot run is rated for up to 15 amps. Most people won't actually look up this info, but you'll get the same information from a textbook. Remember 55w HID's are still 55w, only slightly more on startup, and you still have 9 amps of play room, which is more than enough. Fuses are designed to protect wiring, so it doesn't overheat and melt. Ford put 15 amp fuses to protect the wiring because they knew the maximum it can handle is precisely that amount. I'm sorry if I'm sounding angry, I'm not, I'm simply trying to explain each reason why Ford does what they do.

You don't need anything with the HID's, there is absolutely no need for a relay. I explained in another thread that the stock wiring is 18awg, and for a 10 foot run, 18awg wire is rated for 15 amps, hence why there's a 15amp fuse for each headlight. 55w hid's will draw a maximum of 6 amps on startup then go down to 4.2, the stock wiring is more than sufficient. Also I would agree with norbs. Match the colors for the headlights and the fogs, both 55w 10k will look nice, and its very very unlikely you'll get pulled over, especially since you have projectors. I'm pretty sure the cops are going after ricy civcs with 35w 12k hid's and holes all throughout the exhaust, or some awful exhaust setup. My setup looks almost like it would come stock. You won't be disappointed.

Couldn't have said it better myself, it is like throwing out an anchor in the rain. These tires are just awesome. This is my first set so I haven't seen this wear, but the Fusion is FWD as you know anyway. We only had light snow here in New Jersey last winter but they performed very well in that also. When these wear out, I'll be purchasing another set.

Not a problem. yes they are the standard raptor kits, you can spend 10 bucks extra for smaller ballasts but they work the same. I recommend 55w, and if you want the tint of blue, I say go with 10k 55w. You'll get the brightness and the color. The combination of the increased wattage and small housings make the 8k's look too white, 10k should be perfect for what you're looking for.

http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/7660-2010-hid-pictures/ I posted all of those pictures, all my lights are 55w 8k DDM kits. They look almost white. Maybe this will help you decide.