Snelgrovereefer

Bad news, I wrote off my wonderful Fusion on December 16, 2016. It had just under 530,000 km (529,820) or 329,215 miles on it and it was still running great but the insurance company would not repair it. I guess i am now out of the forum as I have moved to a 2016 Hyundai Sonata Sport Tech.

All the best all!

I am now at 497,431 Km on my 2007 Fusion SEL V6 and the car is still fantastic! Very few repairs and nothing major. I hope to have it for many more years.

Happy motoring,

Mark

I did not change the gasket when I did mine and all was perfect.

I put in a Steeda Cold Air Intake kit; about $250 CAD and removed the silencer pipe' Steeda has a nice chrome cap for that as well. Really easy to do in about 30 minutes, I did it in the parking lot during lunch at my office and I did it in dress pants, shirt and a tie!

The mod looks and sounds amazing especially at WOT, it also adds a nice punch to acceleration.

Check out steedafusion.com

Mark

Does anyone know how I would go about replacing the green light on the dash board clock? The round analog version on the 07 SEL V6.

Thanks for any help,

Mark

I have had the tint on my back window done twice. The first job had bad quailty on the bumps but the second shop had no issues with these bumps and it looks great and the adhesion on bumps is perfect. It can be done I do not know if there was a difference with the type material used the second time at the other shop.

There is a product called Dot-Devil that really good tint shops use to adhere the tint to the window. Before you have a tint done, ask how the shop will handle the dots and the defroster lines. NOTE - The rear window tint should always be appied as one sheet, not cut into strips to fit between defroster lines.

Mark

So I just picked up two new rear calipers with all hardware and new mounting brackets. Wow, do you ever have to look around to get the best price and product. First I called Ford and was quoted $300 each, then checked all of the usual aftermarket guys. I was just looking for OEM replacement not a Brembo upgrade or anything and the prices were all over the map. All of the prices are with the core refund already taken off, semi-loaded, all hardware and is each; $221, $177, $136 and $196. I ended picking them up for $119 each from the same firmm that quoted me $136 but from a different dealer location! The best part is that the calipers are reman. FoMoCo's and they have been pre-coated with an nice looking blackish chemical to stop rust and corrosion. Will be replacing them tomorrow night, the only part that I am not looking forward to is bleeding the brakes.

I will let you know how it goes.

Mark

I am no expert, only passionate about mechanic. Here is my 2 cents. Rear disc brakes self adjust everytime the parking brake cable is applied. The parking cable force is transmitted to a cam inside the caliper piston, pressing the piston against the pads. In addition to that effect, there is a ratcheting mechanism inside the piston, which will pick up and reduce any excess piston travel movement when the parking brake is pulled and the piston is pressed against the pads. This is why when you change the rear pads, the piston cannot be simply pushed inside the caliper to make room for the new thicker pads, like this has to be done with the front calipers, but the rear pistons have to be turned (clockwise) to retract them inside the caliper, with the help of a special piston tool, or with needle nose pliers, like many other amateurs have done, including myself. The rear piston have notches on its edge to allow using the piston tool, or needle nose pliers.

WOW, I wish I had read this before last weekend when I changed my pads and rotors on all four wheels; I wondered why it has so hard to compress the rear pistons but did manage to get it done. I have always done my owne brakes and have never ran into a problem. Now however the driver side rear seems a little to tight and the passenger side rear does not seem to be working at all since the rotor has not been scored at all. Also, they emergency brake does not seem to engage well (it would not stop the car if it was moving). What can I do now besides the obvious; taking it into a garage?

My tint has the same issue and I use the defroster a lot. It has been two years now and not a single issue from it.

Mark

I picked up my 2007 SEL V6 on June 19, 2007 form Planet Ford, with less than 5 miles on it and as of today I have 165,098 miles or as we say in the great white north 265,700 kilometres! When it take it in for any type of service they always comment that it looks and feels new or almost new.

What an awsome car!

Mark

I just changed my spark plugs in a 2007 Fusion SEL V6. It was very easy to do with a minimum amount of tools and knowlege. I installed the Bosch Fusion 4+ Platinum (gotta like the name of them) and you can really feel a difference. The car had 173,000 km on it and I did not feel a need to change the original plugs but I had heard of them getting seized into the block after 100 - 150K so I was way over do. No problem changing them at all.

You need to loosen (you cannot remove them from the manifold completely as they are secured to the top portion which is good as you will not loose them) the 8 screws that secure the intake manifold to the block. I also removed the two hoses that connect to the intake manifold at the top near the firewall and the electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold. There is also a silver device mounted on a bracket on the driver side of the manifold; I removed the 2 bolts that secured it and then I was able to hold up the manifold enough to gain fairly easy access under the manifold from the drivers side to get at all three plugs with a ratchet. No problems at all.

While I was at it I cleaned and oiled the K&N air filter and the car sounds and performs like a bat out of hell!

So far this year I have done the plugs, installed four new Riken Raptor tires and EBS drilled brake rotors and pads.

Mark

I just changed my spark plugs in a 2007 Fusion SEL V6. It was very easy to do with a minimum amount of tools. I installed the Bosch Fusion 4+ Platinum and you can really feel a difference. The car had 173,000 km on it and I did not feel a need to change the original plugs but I had heard of them getting seized into the block after 100 - 150K so I was way over do. No problem changing them at all.

You need to loosen (you cannot remove them from the manifold completely as they are secured to the top portion which is good as you will not loose them) the 8 screws that secure the intake manifold to the block. I also removed the two hoses that connect to the intake manifold at the top near the firewall and the electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold. There is also a silver device mounted on a bracket on the driver side of the manifold; I removed the 2 bolts that secured it and then I was able to hold up the manifold enough to gain fairly easy access under the manifold from the drivers side to get at all three plugs with a ratchet. No problems at all.

Mark