Chevy Guy

Just wanted to share this in case it might help someone. My 2010 SEL started throwing a P0451 code a while back. Resetting would fix things for a couple days but it would always come back, sometimes with a P1450 code. Changed the Canister Vent Valve... nothing. Changed the Purge Solenoid... nothing. Finally gave in and swapped out the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Assembly... bingo! The valve and the solenoid were $60 each from Napa so I had taken the chance before spending $250 at the dealer on a new FTPS. Hey, I had to try, right? Anyway, it's been a month and the car is still working fine (knock on wood) and I have a few spare parts on my garage shelf. All good.

I was surprised to notice what I think was excessive wear on my rear rotors (35K). The fronts are fine, but the backs showed deep grooves like I have been dragging pads. Since the car is due for its first provincial inspection, I decided to change out the rear pads and rotors (refreshingly very simple job on this car, BTW). Because of the condition of the rotors, I was expecting stuck sliders, but there was no problem there. What I did find was that the pads were jammed solid in the carriers - I literally had to tap them free with a hammer to get them out. I cleaned up the carriers and lubed them and the new pads are free to slide now. I wonder if there was any factory lube... Either way, I think I'll be taking the time to check this regularly from now on - I'm sure they should have lasted longer than 35K... certainly they shouldn't have worn out sooner than the front ones.

A mate of mine tangled with a deer - everyone OK (except for the deer).

Is the new spec backwards compatible with the old one? Seems to me that Ford wouldn't be playing fair ball to tie warranty claims to an old spec when the oil manufacturers follow the new one.

At risk of sounding stupid - is there a way to know for sure that the headlights are on when using the "auto" feature? (From inside the car, of course) I notice that the dash lights dim when it starts to get dark, could that be the indicator? I know that the headlights come on any time the wipers are on, but that doesn't change the dash lights. Any help?

Do you know the TSB ref # ? Thanks.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this happen... The piece of rubber trim that fits along the bottom of the rear window has just fallen off my 2010 SEL. It's not a big deal to put right (well, once it warms up a bit) and I'm pretty sure I know how it happened (ice that slipped between the trunk lid and the window when I opened it, then pushed the trim down and off when I closed it), but I was wondering if it was a common thing to happen to these cars.

Can anyone out there (maybe some someone in the "industry") confirm or deny the rumours that Ford will be releasing another PCM update for the 6F35 transmission? I heard maybe by the end of this year.

Just thought I'd share this because it shows that some nagging problems have very simple solutions. Early this week, my windshield washer pump suddenly quit on my 2010 SEL (fluid level was good). I was way to busy at work to deal with it and certainly too busy to spend any time at the dealer messing with warranty claims. Anyway, today (Saturday) I found some time to lift the hood and see what was what. It turns out that the hose connection at the hood had simply popped off the connector. 10 seconds to slip it back on and another minute to secure it with a tie-wrap so it won't happen again. I love a happy ending!

You just vacuum out the filter? It is clearly a disposable filter. If you're just cleaning out the big chunks, your filter is still dirty and air flow is compromised. That "mottled grey texture" is the fine dust and dirt - a new filter is white. I will try your technique to change it without unbolting the damper, though... next time. Thanks.

I can't imagine that my car is any different from yours, but I could not see any way to remove / replace that filter without significantly deforming it to clear the damper. Even with the damper removed, it still got caught up in the bracket (I was able to bend the paper enough clear the bracket). Maybe next time I need to change it (next year?), I'll give it the old college try to get it out and back in without tearing it to pieces. Either way, it's done. Cheers!

I changed the cabin air filter in my 2010 SEL today. Accessing the filter housing wasn't too bad - exactly like the picture a few posts back. The problem started when I tried to get the old filter out with that bleepin' glove box door damper in the way. It certainly looks like it was installed AFTER the filter. I determined that it would be impossible to remove the old filter with tearing it up, not such a big deal but putting the new one would be equally destructive, and that would be counter-productive. I ended up removing the damper - a lesson in patience since it is bolted in from the back side - and then the filter change took 10 seconds. The old filter was pretty dirty (12K km) and needed changing. I would classify it a novice job if it were not for the requirement to remove the damper. Still not a hard job with the damper, but it definitely requires the patience of Job (and a 7mm wrench).

I wasn't really looking for a DVD version of the manual, but this one looks OK and the price seems reasonable. The problem is that this guy will not ship out of the US (I'm in Canada), not sure why. Thanks for your suggestions. W.

I've been trying to find a set of factory workshop manuals for the 2010 Fusion (not hybrid). I've been trolling Ebay for a while now with no luck and I was wondering if anyone here had an idea of where to find them. I was looking for the full set including the wiring diagram book. I lucked into a set for my '06 Ranger soon after I bought it and they've more than paid for themselves. Any help? Thanks, Wes

I took it in and they diagnosed a bad key pad. They ordered the part - 3 days to arrive - and they replaced it today. Only took about 20 minutes and, as expected, 100% covered under the warranty. In case you're interested, the part # is listed as 8H6Z-14A626-AY (under the description, they call it a "ACTUATO Z00"... whatever that might mean). CG