Chevy Guy

Just wanted to share this in case it might help someone. My 2010 SEL started throwing a P0451 code a while back. Resetting would fix things for a couple days but it would always come back, sometimes with a P1450 code. Changed the Canister Vent Valve... nothing. Changed the Purge Solenoid... nothing. Finally gave in and swapped out the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Assembly... bingo! The valve and the solenoid were $60 each from Napa so I had taken the chance before spending $250 at the dealer on a new FTPS. Hey, I had to try, right? Anyway, it's been a month and the car is still working fine (knock on wood) and I have a few spare parts on my garage shelf. All good.

I was surprised to notice what I think was excessive wear on my rear rotors (35K). The fronts are fine, but the backs showed deep grooves like I have been dragging pads. Since the car is due for its first provincial inspection, I decided to change out the rear pads and rotors (refreshingly very simple job on this car, BTW). Because of the condition of the rotors, I was expecting stuck sliders, but there was no problem there. What I did find was that the pads were jammed solid in the carriers - I literally had to tap them free with a hammer to get them out. I cleaned up the carriers and lubed them and the new pads are free to slide now. I wonder if there was any factory lube... Either way, I think I'll be taking the time to check this regularly from now on - I'm sure they should have lasted longer than 35K... certainly they shouldn't have worn out sooner than the front ones.

A mate of mine tangled with a deer - everyone OK (except for the deer).

Is the new spec backwards compatible with the old one? Seems to me that Ford wouldn't be playing fair ball to tie warranty claims to an old spec when the oil manufacturers follow the new one.

At risk of sounding stupid - is there a way to know for sure that the headlights are on when using the "auto" feature? (From inside the car, of course) I notice that the dash lights dim when it starts to get dark, could that be the indicator? I know that the headlights come on any time the wipers are on, but that doesn't change the dash lights. Any help?

Do you know the TSB ref # ? Thanks.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this happen... The piece of rubber trim that fits along the bottom of the rear window has just fallen off my 2010 SEL. It's not a big deal to put right (well, once it warms up a bit) and I'm pretty sure I know how it happened (ice that slipped between the trunk lid and the window when I opened it, then pushed the trim down and off when I closed it), but I was wondering if it was a common thing to happen to these cars.

Can anyone out there (maybe some someone in the "industry") confirm or deny the rumours that Ford will be releasing another PCM update for the 6F35 transmission? I heard maybe by the end of this year.

Just thought I'd share this because it shows that some nagging problems have very simple solutions. Early this week, my windshield washer pump suddenly quit on my 2010 SEL (fluid level was good). I was way to busy at work to deal with it and certainly too busy to spend any time at the dealer messing with warranty claims. Anyway, today (Saturday) I found some time to lift the hood and see what was what. It turns out that the hose connection at the hood had simply popped off the connector. 10 seconds to slip it back on and another minute to secure it with a tie-wrap so it won't happen again. I love a happy ending!

You just vacuum out the filter? It is clearly a disposable filter. If you're just cleaning out the big chunks, your filter is still dirty and air flow is compromised. That "mottled grey texture" is the fine dust and dirt - a new filter is white. I will try your technique to change it without unbolting the damper, though... next time. Thanks.

I can't imagine that my car is any different from yours, but I could not see any way to remove / replace that filter without significantly deforming it to clear the damper. Even with the damper removed, it still got caught up in the bracket (I was able to bend the paper enough clear the bracket). Maybe next time I need to change it (next year?), I'll give it the old college try to get it out and back in without tearing it to pieces. Either way, it's done. Cheers!

I changed the cabin air filter in my 2010 SEL today. Accessing the filter housing wasn't too bad - exactly like the picture a few posts back. The problem started when I tried to get the old filter out with that bleepin' glove box door damper in the way. It certainly looks like it was installed AFTER the filter. I determined that it would be impossible to remove the old filter with tearing it up, not such a big deal but putting the new one would be equally destructive, and that would be counter-productive. I ended up removing the damper - a lesson in patience since it is bolted in from the back side - and then the filter change took 10 seconds. The old filter was pretty dirty (12K km) and needed changing. I would classify it a novice job if it were not for the requirement to remove the damper. Still not a hard job with the damper, but it definitely requires the patience of Job (and a 7mm wrench).

I wasn't really looking for a DVD version of the manual, but this one looks OK and the price seems reasonable. The problem is that this guy will not ship out of the US (I'm in Canada), not sure why. Thanks for your suggestions. W.

I've been trying to find a set of factory workshop manuals for the 2010 Fusion (not hybrid). I've been trolling Ebay for a while now with no luck and I was wondering if anyone here had an idea of where to find them. I was looking for the full set including the wiring diagram book. I lucked into a set for my '06 Ranger soon after I bought it and they've more than paid for themselves. Any help? Thanks, Wes

I took it in and they diagnosed a bad key pad. They ordered the part - 3 days to arrive - and they replaced it today. Only took about 20 minutes and, as expected, 100% covered under the warranty. In case you're interested, the part # is listed as 8H6Z-14A626-AY (under the description, they call it a "ACTUATO Z00"... whatever that might mean). CG

Thanks for the info and the offer - unfortunately, since I live in Nova Scotia, I don't think that I'll be able bring it in. I talked to the service manager at my local dealership and he didn't think it would be too difficult to put right (he also said that it should easily be covered by the warranty). It goes in Monday, I'll let you know how I make out. CG

...and now the 1/2 light is back on (9/0 is still out). I just love those intermittent problems. With the recent snow we've had, I'm thinking moisture inside the door... great! CG

Thanks. I'll be calling the dealer on Monday. Hopefully, it's just an isolated incident - I can't find a service bulletin or anything on it... yet. I suppose I could just go outside and check for myself, but did the light issue on yours affect the functionality of the button, i.e. did the keypad still work with a bad light? CG

I see from a few other threads here (and a bit of on-line investigation) that I'm not alone with this problem, but I was wondering how common it is. A couple days ago I noticed that the outside two buttons on my keyless entry door keypad were not lit up (middle ones were fine). Since the car (2010 SEL) is less than a year old, I assume that will have no issues getting the dealer to put it right at no cost. Any comments? CG

Thanks bbf2530 for clearing that up, I had made the assumption about skipping the 20 second delay (and you know what they say about assumptions...). I tried the key fob lock/arm with a door open and it also acted exactly as you described with using the door lock button - as expected. On a (slightly) related note, with all the experimenting and playing with the keyless entry, I discovered that I had somehow managed to coincidentally hit the right sequence of buttons to disable the "auto lock" feature. The horn chirped when I did it, but I didn't know what had actually changed until I took the car out later - fortunatly I put two and two together and realized what I had done. The procedure to change it back is also laid out in the manual. Cheers.

On my SEL - and I can't see the SE being fundamentally different - a single push of the fob button (no chirp) locks the doors and arms the perimeter alarm after a 20 second delay. A double push does the same thing but skips the 20 second delay. The horn chirp just lets you know that everything is closed and the alarm can be armed (you get a double chirp if you left something open). Presumably this feature was designed for people who desire the instant "set it and forget it" and to avoid the situation where you set the alarm with a window or door open and then walk away, oblivious to the fact that after 20 seconds, your car will not be secure. Not sure what happens after 20 seconds with a door open, I'll have to try it. All that to say that if you don't want to annoy your neighbours, just make sure everything is closed, push the button once and walk away. You can also arm the alarm by simply hitting the lock button on your door before you close it... just don't take longer then 20 seconds to close the door (now I'm really curious - I just have to test it for myself). Either way, I don't know of an owner-accessible way to alter the alarm arming settings. You might have to bite the bullet and pay a visit to the dealer. BTW, most of this was in my manual. Cheers, Chevy Guy 2006 Ranger Sport 2010 Fusion SEL

So I had my tranny "flashed" yesterday. It wasn't exhibiting any of the symptom listed here, but it had the offending transmission type and it's build date was within the targeted period. It didn't take long, judging from when they called me after I dropped it off on the way to work and of course the cost was zero. To be honest, I don't notice any difference... I suppose I should take that as good thing. Although the dealer was great about the whole thing, I was disappointed that I had never received anything from Ford about this situation. All my knowledge about this recall (and yes, my receipt says "recall", not "customer satifaction program") came from this forum. After I read about it here and printed out the notice, I waited for Ford (Canada) to notify me. When I couldn't stand waiting for either the letter or the tranny symptoms to manifest themselves, I broke down and called the dealer myself. They took the car in two days later and (apparently) applied the "fix". The notice said that letters would start going out 30 April and yet by August 3rd, I still hadn't heard a word. I realize that the notice was issued by Ford (US), but presumably Ford (Canada) would be working with similar timelines - after all, the recall number on my dealer receipt (10B15) is exactly the same as the US "customer satisfaction program" number. Just wondering if any other Canuck Fusions have a similar story...? BTW, if anyone is wondering wether or not they have the transmission in question (6F35), check your door sticker. Transmission type "W" is the 6F35. Chevy Guy 2006 Ranger Sport, 5 spd, 3.0 L 2010 Fusion SEL, 3.0L

Traded in my 2000 3.1L Malibu for my new 2010 3.0L Fusion SEL. What I miss about the Malibu? The head room (didn't knock my hat off every time I got in... unlike the Fusion). The ignition switch in the dash. The block heater. What I don't miss? Piston slap every cold start. Weak A/C. Right-rear quarter panel rust spot - repaired twice, came back a third. Water in every light assembly. Oil filter in a user-unfriendly spot. What I can't live without in the Fusion now? Sync... nuff said. Alloy rims. Electric seats. Auto dual climate control. Keyless entry. Traction control. All in all, the Malibu was a great car that served me well and reliably for 10 years. The Fusion is a technological giant step forward and I only hope that it proves to be as great a car as the 'bu in the long run. No regrets.

I'm having trouble finding an after market filter (Quaker State, Fram, Purolator, etc.) for my 2010. None of the shops I've visited seem to list the 2010 3.0 L. Any help?

Yeah, I thought of just unhooking it as well... but then I had to ask myself why did I bother installing it just to leave it unhooked most of the time. My Malibu net provided the same service without getting in the way. I'll keep trying to get used to it.... BTW, I meant to say "tearing this one out...".