whoathere

So the PWM would cause the lights to just not turn on randomly? Where I've tested the voltage on both sides was at the stock H11 (I think?) connector. Im going to test at the sjb now. If I'm good there, are there any connections between the sjb and the h11? I wouldn't think so but just checking.

It's been a while since I did front brakes, but I know for sure the rear calipers have the piston that requires the special tool to rotate the piston back. Does the front not have that?

Yes. I do believe that to be the cause of the problem. But I am looking for where to check next, which sounds like the sjb. As I've said before, the ballast has been replaced. The bulb has been replaced. Both are functional when hooked up on the drivers side. The drivers side ballast is going 7 years old. Never had a problem.

That is a great write up. And I don't understand projectors because I've never heard the word shutter used in relation to projectors before. Since both of my bulbs and ballasts are functional, when you say "sizzle" do you mean the sjb? i guess the reason why I'm a little hesitant to do such a big job is because I've had my fusion since July of 2009 and have HIDs for at least 6 of those 7 years, and this problem originally presented itself when the passenger side ballast was drenched driving in a torrential downpour. The drivers side has been operating since the end of 2010 with the same bulb and ballast without a single issue.

So, thread revival. I did some work on this tonight to narrow down the problem. And I don't know where to look next. On the functional drivers side headlight harness, I get 11.6v on the meter. On the passenger side, which doesn't work, I get 8.7v. Not knowing much about electrical, I decided to test the ground. So I ran my own ground and used the hot from the wiring harness which read 8.7v. When I used the wiring harness ground and ran a hot to the drivers side, I get the 11.6v. So this tells me I'm losing voltage somewhere and that it's not the ground. Is that correct? Does this point to the SJB? I've checked the fuses and they are both fine. I also tried using a fused relay and that didn't work either. My bulbs and ballasts are both fine as well. Do any of you have any suggestions of what to check next?

Not sure what you mean by moisture geting to the lens, but the socket connector at the balast does have the thick wrinkle-like gasket. It seems to connect pretty firmly when I click it into the ballast. I'm going to check tonight to see if it looks like it has melted. So far, I've gone through 3 sockets: 1) Corroded. I believe it got wet in a drive through 2) Melted. 3) Will report back tonight if it looks anything other than new.

I have a 2010 SE, 4cyl automatic. I put in a set of 55w HIDs back when it was brand new. After a minor collision, resulting in some right front damage, the repair shop ended up putting everything back to stock because the HID bulb was broken as a result of the accident. They replaced everything back to OEM, which were just regular bulbs in the projectors. After about 6 months of that, I went back to HIDs. Ordered another 55w kit. Installed and worked fine with no problems. Until one day the right side didn't work anymore. The problem wasn't that the bulb started flickering and eventually went out, it would just turn on about 50% of the time when I turned the switch on. When it would actually turn on, by the time I would go down the road, it would be out again. Eventually, the light would not turn on at all. So, I got under the hood and noticed that the stock connector looked like it had shorted, the female teriminals were quite corroded, so I went and bought a new 9006 socket and spliced it in, and purchased a new ballast to be sure, and that got the light to turn on again. Unfortunately, it still has this finnicky behavior. Last night, I took a look at the connector that I had spliced in, and sure enough, it looks damaged, but this time it looks like it melted. Back to the parts store to buy another one, but this time I soldered the spliced wires, taped, shrink wrapped and taped again. The light works again, but is still very finnicky. I'm almost wondering if the socket that I spliced in is causing a resistance issue at the ballast, which is causing damage to the connector? I really am lost on this one. I've also swapped ballasts and bulbs multiple times, so I know it's neither of those.

My 2010 SE is right at 70k and we've been getting some bone chilling weather the last few days (todays high is 6). Yesterday when leaving the office, it started although it didn't act like it wanted to. Last night I had to park outside due to a project I'm working on and this morning it was dead. Barely even tried and then clicked. So I jumped it and got it running. I'd like to replace it with a long life battery, but it seems like every site I visit only has like $80 replacements. I'd like an AGM and have read about modifying the tray to fit a larger battery. Just curious though, what replacement batteries are you guys going with? Thanks!

This is a very quick PS just to give you an idea... I have a sterling grey which is darker.

Ya. I'm just concerned that the bore on the wheel is 66.1 and if it is, will they just not fit on a 67.1 bore? I'm almost hoping that he has rims with a larger bore and he just didn't care or know to put an adapter on. I definitely would. Also, what would I have to do about the TPMS? Take it to a tire place and have the tire's removed, TPMS installed, and then rebalance the wheels?

I've got a 2010 Fusion SE. It has about 55k on it and is going to need some new tires relitively soon. I've got the 16" steelies and have always kicked around the idea of getting 18" rims. The sport rims were obviously on my list, but I've just never really found a great deal on those. So, I started perusing craigslist and found a guy selling Verde Kaos 18" in the hyper silver with the stainless lip. He's asking $400 and they come with tires that are pretty new, he posts pictures were you can still see the paint in the tread. I like this still of wheel, and I think it would look sharp on my sterling grey fusion. The tire size is 235/40/18 which I know is slightly larger than stock, and they are a +38mm offset, so I'm pretty sure they would fit. Here's the problem, he had them on an Infiniti i30, which has a center bore of 66.1, fusion is 67.1. I'm not sure if those wheels were bought specifically for that car and came with a 66.1 bore, or if they were bought online and he just threw them on and didn't care about the center bore. He said he isn't using a ring adaptor or anything. If they fit on his car, and were 66.1, would they still fit on my fusion? Or do you guys think I should just get new tires on my hideous steelies with chipped and scraped hubcaps? I would still keep the stock wheels for winter use since the tires could handle another winter at least, maybe 2. Thanks in advance.

So if I were to buy one of the keyless entry accessories from Ford, do you think those 5 would be my code? Or maybe I don't even have the sticker because I don't already have the keyless entry pad..

Very nice! Can't wait to see the finished install.

2010 Fusion SE 4 cyl here. I have the same issue. 43k miles. I heard a grinding sound and sure enough my rear pad on the left side is worn completely down and is grinding on the rotor. The right side still has a little amount of pad left. And my front pads? They look brand new. This makes absolutely no sense that the rear brake would be more biased when it's the fronts that have the stopping power. I couldn't believe what my front pads looked like. I'll chime in when I hear from the dealer.

Just had this done to my car last Friday. Parts were back ordered and took about 10 business days to come in. What I noticed is that mine didn't leak if it was sitting flat, it would only leak when parked on an incline.