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Looking to buy a tuner for a 2009 2.3L with automatic. Figure someone must have one laying around for the early generation that they aren't using anymore. Seems like SCT brand is the only company that supports them. For shipping, I"m located in Charleston, SC . Please PM me.

Hello. I have a 2007 Fusion 2.3L manual 5spd that i have recently replaced the engine. The engine is an "early build(cartridge style oil filter, non-California)". I was told it was out of a 2009 Milan with only approx 105k miles. I have had no issues except for an occasional stall when coming to a stop, but recently discovered it to be an oil burner. It uses about 1qt every couple of days and i only drive about 20mi/day. I did a Compression test that revealed the lowest cylinder to have 157psi of compression. Im considering PCV failure to be the culprit. Has anyone else had a similar experience? 

Hey folks, I have a 2006 Fusion with the 2.3 liter engine. This engine uses the cartridge-style oil filter which, although it may be more environmentally friendly (less materials used), is a real PITA to change--I have experienced multiple issues with the housing/cap (most recently, the drain plug at the bottom of the cap leaking in spite of changing the O-ring), and would like to use a spin-on filter. I heard that there is an adapter that is designed for spin-on filters. There was a posting on this forum, as well as another forum, which included links to the parts, but the links were dead. If anyone can advise me of the proper part numbers for the adapter and gasket for the spin-on filters, it would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys have a 07 fusion 2.3L with a manual transmission at 170k miles. So this started about a week ago, when I push my clutch in to shift it starts to make this squealing sound. When my foot is off the clutch there is no sound. I haven't had any problems shifting since it has happened. I checked my clutch fluid and its full and looks clean. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this or does anyone know what it might be? Tyler

If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. I was driving down the road yesterday and I took my foot off of the gas as I approached a light and it died. It then started right up. Two lights later, it did the same thing. I drove it right to Dobbs and they said that the motor was shot and it has some internal issue. I went to drive it home and it runs and just as it always has. No real loss of power or anything but massive white smoke coming out of the tail pipe and I burned through 5 quarts in the 1 mile home. I put more oil in it. It starts right up, runs smooth, but is burning a ton of oil. Wit it running as smoothly as it is, I have a hard time believing that the motor is bad. Could it possibly be a bad PCV valve and it is sucking oil into the motor? I checked the plugs and the number 1 is dry, the number two has a little oil on it, the number 3 has a ton of oil on it, and the number 4 had a little oil on it. If anyone can help me get to the bottom of this, they will be my hero. PLEASE HELP. By the way, I have changed the oil every 3,000 miles with Mobil One full synthetic motor oil. It has 177,000 miles on it, but with full synthetic oil and regular changes I have gotten 250K+ out of every car I have had, and sold them with no issues. I know some of them went n for years longer.

Good afternoon, I have a 2008 Fusion with 160K miles. It's a 5-speed manual (2.3L). I've put all but the 1st 100 miles on it. When I shift from 1st to 2nd gear I'm only getting about 50% of the power I used to off the line as the tach hits about 3000-3200 RPMs. The same thing happens when shifting other gears although I don't seem to notice it as much from 4th to 5th. At first I thought it was the clutch, but the shifting itself feels fine - there is just a lack of power. I took it to Autozone (I know, I know) to see if it would register any codes even though my CEL hasn't come on. The transmission code = "no response", all other codes were ok. Any ideas before I take it to my dealer to get it checked out? I'm due for a dealer oil change at 161K+ but would like any information the forum experts can extoll before then. Thanks, Ari

Hello, I'm just now joining the Ford/Fusion community for the first time, and have a question regarding my purchase of my first Blue Oval. I really like the car, was pleasantly surprised after the test drive - which lead me to take the plunge - and I hope to keep it for years. My question is in 2 parts: 1) I bought a used 2007 recently (120k mi, manual, 2.3L) with no warrantee, from a large Ford dealer, and 2 days after getting it home, the CEL came on, and now I need a $1,400 cat + downstream o2 sensor (code 0420; CEL came back after being wiped by AdvanceAuto and was verified by my own scan tool). I did not do a PPI with a separate mechanic (I know, I know, caveat emptor, but I thought Ford parts are cheap, if there is something I can't spot myself I'll take the $200 from the PPI and put it towards the repair), However, the stealership in question did check the car out for me before buying it, and gave me paperwork documenting a multi-point inspection, saying that everything was ok. In this paperwork there is a line that says "inspect catalytic converter" with a green check-mark next to it. Do you guys think I have any legal recourse here? Obviously I can't prove they knew about the problem, and it technically could have happened within the 20-50mi of me owning it (although this is a tiny chance). 2) Assuming I'm going to bite the bullet with the dealer fix, they said I could source my own parts to try and keep costs down. Are there any reliable places to get OEM-quality (with a CAT I would only want OEM-quality parts, so I don't go through this again in a couple years) Ford parts? Also, the dealer rep said there are actually 3 cats on the car, wtf? Should I assume they will all be going bad at some point soon, with about $1,000 repair for each one? To their credit, they agreed to "work with me" a bit on the price, however the repair would still run me over $1,000. Thanks, and any advice would be appreciated! P.S. I am using the BAFX ELM 327 OBD2 scan tool, which is AWESOME, and I recommend everyone out there get one. It's $25, syncs wirelessly to any smartphone through a free app, and has access to many CPU functions. I brought up the voltages from the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, and watched them fluctuate while the vehicle was on - which helped me verify that I thought the cat was bad before taking it to the stealership.