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Hi, I have a 2013 Ford Fusion 2.5L 4-cylinder and the gearbox (automatic) has been giving me hard shifting issues. Changing from 1st to 2nd gear causes a loud thud / hard jerk movement and initiates the error codes P0715, P0717, and sometimes P062A. When driving, it will shift from 1st to 4th gear, however, it has failed to shift gears back down to 1st after coming to a complete stop. The only way to get it back to 1st is to clear these error codes while stopped. Thinking that this is an issue with the input speed sensor like the codes suggest, I hijacked part of the existing pigtail and attached a new 3-pin connector (cost $25), but it did not fix the problem like it did for others. Still get the same code and hardshifting. Here's what I'm still thinking could help: clean all ground connectors of corrosion, inspect all wires coming to and from the PCM for damage, and last resort would be to replace the TCM module. I really don't want to have to rebuild the transmission, and I'll just sell it if so, since it would almost cost the value of the vehicle to rebuild it. Please help me if you have any advice or experience, I'm a novice mechanic! Thanks for your time (Picture: chenged pigtail)

Daughter came home said the car was not shifting properly. Found transmission oil low. Topped up same checked Engine oil was over full. Changed oil and filter, drove away fine.2 weeks later checked again found same problem....? No oil on the driveway. red colour of oil on engine oil dipstick.

Hey guys up for sale is a used K&N 69-3514TTK. The filter is dirty but all parts and required come with it. Just like new but cheaper. 150.00/free shipping

okay so I was timing the engine and when I was spinning the crank the timing gear was not spinning with the crank, I bought a new timing gear and washers and the timing gear just slid on and off, arent they supposed to be press fit... any helpful advice to this problem would be much appreciated, I have been told to have the timing gear welded onto the crank just wondering my other options at this point

Hello All, Recently had my thermostat read out shut down on me when driving home from a work trip. Immediately pulled over to ensure I was not overheating and when turning the car back on the read out turns back on. The car is not overheating currently as on occasion the thermostat will turn back on when operating and will be at a normal operating temp. I have also shut down the car at lights and when restarting the temp gauge will turn on and reflect proper operating temps for at least a couple of seconds. Pulled the code and confirmed it was P1289 a head temp circuit. Have not recently done any work on the car so it is unlikely it was unlodged by my maintanance. When the temp readout ceases functioning the AC also stops blowing cold. Any thoughts to addressing this? Their do not appear to be any functional issues with the car (beyond the sensor) at this time. Looks like the temp sensor is pretty cheap. Doing some googling to find the location and replacement process. 2.5L Manual Tranmsission 2010. Thank you for reading.

I have a 2010 fusion with the 6f35 trans. I recently developed an oil leak and quickly diagnosed it as one of the CV shaft seals at the transmission. Looked like it was the drivers side so i ordered all the parts necessary to do the job. There is a terrific youtube video on replacing the driver side bushing/seal/shaft and i know i can do this by myself. The problem is as follows..... i noticed that there was also a couple drops of oil on the trans mount, which seemed odd to me if it was only the drivers side seal leaking. So, i sprayed a bunch of degreaser all around and cleaned the area up real nice, then took it out on a short drive to warm the fluids to accelerate the leak process. I drove it up on ramps and lucky me!!! Not just the drivers side, but also the passenger side seal leaks! It was a short, 20 minute test drive, and there was fluid just starting to develop around where each shaft goes into the transmission; but it hadn't started to drip and cover other areas yet, so i know it is two separate leaks. It is much slower on the passenger side, not that it really matters sense both need to be replaced. But i have been unable to find any how-to videos or write ups on doing the passenger side. Any info i can find seems to be concerning the drivers side axle shaft/seal. But the passenger side simply looks different. Ive attached photos of the driver side(1st) and passenger side (2nd) for those who are unfamiliar with what they look like. (pictures taken before the test drive so that is why it looks like there is no leaking) My question is, does anyone know if the passenger side uses different tools than the drivers side? I already have the special tools for the drivers side (bushing puller, bushing installer to set bushing at correct position, seal installer) but will those work on the passenger side as well? Because just visually looking at it, it appears different. I dont want to get the drivers side done, have the passenger cv shaft pulled out then discover uh-oh, i dont have the correct tools to complete the job. I would really like to do the job myself to save some money. I have contemplated just doing the drivers side, then take it to the dealer to do the passenger side to cut the bill in half, but that is a waste of expensive trans fluid (fill it up simply to drive it to the dealer for it to be drained out again). I would either like the dealer to tackle the whole job, or do it all myself. Preferably the latter. So has anyone done this before, especially the passenger side? Driver side i am comfortable with, but totally foreign to the passenger side. Or better yet, but a long-shot, does anyone know of a write up or a tutorial of someone changing their passenger side cv shaft and seal assembly? Thanks.

Looking to buy a set of lowering springs and have read a lot about the Eibach Pro Kit.. Though it only says its available for the 3.0l. Has anyone tried putting these springs on a 2.5l without any problems? Also, if you have did you put on a larger wheel and tire combo? Thanks, Chance

Hey everyone! I am new to the forum and i going to be buying myself a new 2014 fusion se at the end of feb. I have pretty much everything picked out but the only thing i cant decide on is the engine. I cant decide between the stock 2.5l or the 1.5l ecoboost. They both have about the same hp and torque but my real hang up is, what gets better mpg? I dont expect either of them to get their stated mpg but does anyone have any actual mpg info they can give me on either of them? And is there any reason i should get one instead of the other? i do like that the 1.5 is turbo'd being a car fanatic myself but I also know that turbos can lead to possible problems in the future. Summary: What should I get, 2.5l or 1.5l and why? What gets better ACTUAL mpg. Thanks in advance!

I recently purchased a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with about 70,000 miles on it because I loved the car. My Corolla needed to go with almost 200,000 miles on it and a blown engine--plus the dealership gave me a great trade in value I test drove the car for about a week and noticed it was a bit snippy with the 2 > 3 upshift and did a lot of research and read through many threads on this forum and found a lot of great info. I did take the car to the dealer last night explaining the 2 to 3 snappy shifting and I was told they applied a TSB (not sure which one, possibly 10B15?) after leaving it with them for a day (they also shampooed some of the seats for me) The best way to describe the issue is similar to something like a kickdown cable (which was a problem I encountered while having the Corolla -- not very expensive thank god!) But when the kickdown cable was damaged I remember the car would not shift smoothly, and often hang on to a gear before finally letting go to the next gear--it would just feel like a swift 'clunk' and then you'd be in the next gear. I never experienced flaring on the Corolla or the Fusion (just a slight one shifting from 3 to 4 but its not even 200 rpm and it's butter smooth). In addition, I haven't experienced any slipping while driving the Fusion. But the Fusion shifting from 2 to 3 feels EXACTLY like the kickdown cable issue with the Corolla. It's a real snippy shift, it doesn't jerk you, but you definitely feel it whereas the other gears you can hardly feel them at all. To my knowledge the Fusion does not have a kickdown cable is this correct? Also, the TSB 10B15 or any other TSBs after that should have at least addressed the rough shift, etc. but does it sound like I have something else going on? This problem only presents itself when I am aggressive with the car during acceleration, and then it will happen even if my foot is accelerating, but staying at the same position (not pushing or letting off the pedal, just in a position so the car will accelerate). This only seems to happen after the transmission fluid has warmed up when I get off the highway on my way to work. It never happens when the car is cold and has just been started. Any thoughts on this or any info would be greatly appreciated. I have already contacted Ford and started a service ticket with them in case anything goes awry. The transmission and engine still have 2,000 miles left for the dealer warranty.

2010 Ford Fusion SE in Tuxedo Black Monochrome Package (black grill & special seats). Garage kept and in excellent condition. Excellent fuel economy (I average over 30 mpg). Manual 6 speed transmission (very rare for this car), power locks, windows, with Microsoft Sync. Tinted windows, Weather Tech floor mats (front, rear, and trunk). Only 56,500 miles. Asking $12,495/best. VIN# 3FAHP0HA0AR234528 This is my car. I'm not a dealer. I live in the Detroit metro area, I'd ship the car but would prefer a local sale. email: tzcraigslist@gmail.com Pics are available here: http://detroit.craig...3330092002.html

Hey everybody. I'm new to the forum. Got my fusion in June and have a couple questions. I''ve got the blue metallic paint. Thinking about getting the rims coated black. How much is that? And what if any mods can I do without voiding the manufacturer warranty? Thanks in advance for helping out a n00b.

I have a 2011 fusion SE. the the alignment has been a little off, pulling the car to the right while holding the wheel straight, causing me to have to turn the wheel a little to the left to actually drive straight. The dealer did an alignment and but nothing was corrected. when i asked them about it they told me that fusions are prone to drifting and there was nothing they could do. They also told me that there was no way for them or any other ford dealer to duplicate the exact factory setting for the electronic power steering system that's in the fusion. Has anyone else had this problem or am i just getting the run around from my dealer???