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I'm planning an install of my 10 inch subwoofer and 1000 watt amp into my 2008 SEL, utilizing a Line Out Converter. I've already purchased an LC2i Line Out Converter, the plan is to splice that into my rear speakers for the signal to the amp. I've not installed a system using a Line Out Converter, but after replacing the head unit in my old Altima, I'd like to avoid doing all of the tedious work of taking apart the dash, and my research seems to indicate that a LOC should do the trick. I'm not very technical and my experience is limited, so any advice to keep me or my car fully functioning would be greatly appreciated My plan goes as follows Run LOC power from the trunk to the fuse box (18 gauge wire with a fuse head?) Does it matter what fuse slot I use? Run Amp Power through firewall directly to battery A few posts here have indicated there is a small white plastic circle where the clutch would be. I'll most likely take the battery out to hopefully see that spot and be able to drill through it or finesse it through Once I have my power I've got to wire the LOC into my rear "subs". The wires are easily accessible in the trunk. I found a wiring diagram online which I'll post below, however now I'm not certain it's accurate because I think my car has more speakers Somebody on another site suggested a "bumper" to determine polarity. If the wires don't exactly match, I suppose I'll try that. Once I determine the right polarity, I'll wire the speakers to the LOC using additional speaker wire Do I have to wire it into each rear speaker? Or do I just tap into one? After that, I'll ground the amp and the LOC to a bolt in the trunk. Connect RCA from LOC to Amp, get everything connected to power, and I should be good to go? My question remains, how does the LOC know to power off? I know this is a cluster, clearly any guidance is appreciated! Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

Good evening all, I am new to the group, so I wanted to test the water and see if anyone has tried or is looking at trying to turbo charge an 07-09 Fusion with a 5 speed manual. I bought this car a year ago because I wanted a manual tranny and this happened to be at a dealer nearby. I assume that a manual transmission is pretty rare (but that is becoming increasingly more common, much to my dismay) so I was wondering if anyone had tried or is in the process of turbo charging their car. Right now I am in limbo on how and when to do it. I know the engines are similar to the Focus RS, so it can't be impossible but could be difficult to upgrade. I know I need to replace one of the head gaskets soon so if head studs are needed, I would do it then. The clutch is in decent shape, it is the original clutch so I know I will need to replace it about time I start throwing power to it. I have some performance upgrade knowledge but it has mostly been diesel performance so I am coming in blind with gasoline engines as far as knowledge. I know I will need turning, and there is a great tuning shop nearby, so I would be using them. I kind of plan on amassing parts and doing the upgrades pretty much at one time. My dream would be having the car turbo'd, inter-cooled, short throw shifter, upgraded clutch, tuning to run on standard gas, and run about 6-7 PSI. Not looking for a barn burner or drag racer but a car that has some torque and gets decent fuel mileage. Any opinions or comments (that are not negative or rude) are appreciated.

Please has anyone had this problem. Display shows Engine Malfunction. Electrics are on and wiring check shows all ok. Ford diagnostics check after 3 hours have yet to find a fault. Engine will turn mechanically so nothing obvious there.

I'm new to this forum, and I'm just wondering what everyones suggestions were on the older models fusions (2006-2009) spoilers. I'm interested into purchasing a new one since when I bought my car, the owner before me added an poor aftermarket version of the stock spoiler. I'm really pushing the opinions onto the lip (duck tail) spoilers.

Hello all, I've got some electrical issues going on (at least I think that's what it is) and I'm hoping someone can help me diagnosis the problem a little more. So my rear right passenger window will sometimes work...most of the time it won't though. Everything sounds fine when it is working and it'll go up/down fine, which leads me to believe that it's not the window motor or regulator. But here's what's throwing me off: I'll use the drivers windows switch to roll down the back window and sometimes it'll work, but then if I wait a little while (anywhere from seconds to several minutes) the window seizes to work. No noises, movement, just nothing. The only way to get it going again is to try the back window switch and hopefully it'll get it moving again. If it doesn't, then I just have to alternate switches until one of them does something... Okay, to sum things up- Is this a problem with the window switch and if it is, which switch would it likely be? OR is it something that sounds like a more involved electrical issue? I really appreciate any feedback/help!!

condensate on inside of windshield when the car is off not running and selector switch left in defrost mode and caught it the other day and i turned off defrost and it cleared up. now its still in defrost position and cars been sitting for 5 hrs off and windows up condensate on inside of my windshield and fan control is on 1

My 2008 Fusion now has 97k miles on it, so tonight I decided to change the spark plugs, air filter, oil, and check some other stuff. Everything is going well until I pull the #2 spark plug (2nd from the passenger side) and it's dripping with oil. At first glance I thought maybe I had spilled a little down into the spark plug area and it ran down in there when I removed the plug. I cleaned it out and replaced the plug. With the job complete, I cranked the car up and let it warm up for a few minutes. Everything runs fine no check engine lights or anything. But then, just to check, I opened the oil filler cap. Air and oil mist are just pumping out of there with the engine running. I'm assuming this means that I have some sort of head or oil ring issue? I have not checked the compression yet, but I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this problem on the 2.3L motor? The weird thing is that everything else seems normal. No check engine lights, engine runs smooth, no noticable oil consumption, ~27-30mpg, no leaks. Any help is appreciated. I'm really hoping that this doesn't require a new engine, but I'm fearing the worst at this point. I thought the Fusion was pretty much bullet proof with regular maintenance... disappointing Ford!

Like an idiot, I backed into my garage tonight while misjudging the distance between the door and my left mirror. Needless to say, the mirror assembly broke off into 3 different pieces. After gathering said pieces, I was able to snap everything back together and re-attach it to my Milan temporarily. It'll have to stay this way until I have the time to pick up a replacement, and install it, as it seems pretty sturdy for now. Somehow the image is distorted now, I didn't know how you could bend glass like that. I'm just worrying that if I go too fast and/or hit a bump, the whole thing will come apart again, and this time, I'll lose all the pieces. Any suggestions for keeping it together until I can properly repair the damage? Anything other than duct tape will be considered. :D

Hi, guys, I'd appreciate some advice here. I am in need of new tires on a 2008 SEL FWD. Now, I received one quote and it's rather expensive, though certainly in line with what I'm seeing as far as tire prices go. They are Pirelli P4 Four Season, price would be $159.83 apiece. Now that's a lot of money for four new tires, but they have 70K mile warranty (which is where I am now). Also was quoted $14.95 per tire for installation. Still, I would think I could go cheaper and have a nice set of tires. So any advice on what type of tires I could look at that would be cheaper, or is this the kind of price I should be expecting to pay? Thanks in advance.