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Hey y'all, my name is Mark, I've owned a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL V6 3.0L AWD for a few years now and started working construction last year, love the car and plan on keeping it till it gives out, just bottom out fairly often on the jobsite and want to lift it hopefully 4 inches. Hoping someone knows how to install a lift, what parts you'd suggest for it, any video references, etc. I've only ever done one lift on my cousins 80's Toyota truck and that was 6 years ago. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Hello Everyone, After having my tires rotated, I started to experience my steering pulling to the left intermittently and feeling a bit loose. I took it back in to have an alignment done since I have a lifetime agreement at my local pep boys. It did not resolve the issue. I needed to have the PCM updated to fix the wrench light, so I decided to take it in to get diagnosed by the dealership. They are very adamant that the issue is with the rack and pinion, which they tried to get me to replace before. Long story short, it turned out to be an issue with one of my tires. It's been about 4 years since then and I haven't had a single issue with my rack and pinion. They are now trying to charge me $3000 for the repair, but I declined and just got the update and a coolant flush on my engine/mect. When I picked up the car it is now pulling to both the left and the right intermittently. I looked at the notes and it appears the tech crossed rotated the tires. It doesn't appear that the tech did any other diagnostic work to rule out an issue with the sensor. Before I went into the dealership, I ran the codes and took a screenshot. I reset the codes, so I could get my power steering working again. I did have the typical service power steering light come on along with my abs and traction control lights. I am thinking that the issue is a bad steering angle sensor. I wasn't sure at first, but I saw a few youtube videos of other fords having this issue and it turned out to be a sensor issue. I wanted to check and see if anyone has an opinion or has experienced this issue before. If you have any information on possible diagnostics/calibrations I can do through forscan (I have the full license), that would be helpful as well. here are some of the videos I looked at: (I was having a hard time finding english videos) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWgY7FDNFt0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc59s9JbpDw&t=608s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsjZfI13fLQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed-KsE9m870&t=5s I wanted to thank everyone who helps on this forum. I have been able to get through quite a few issues and I am very appreciative of everyone's efforts.

Hello Everyone, After having my tires rotated, I started to experience my steering pulling to the left intermittently and feeling a bit loose. I took it back in to have an alignment done since I have a lifetime agreement at my local pep boys. It did not resolve the issue. I needed to have the PCM updated to fix the wrench light, so I decided to take it in to get diagnosed by the dealership. They are very adamant that the issue is with the rack and pinion, which they tried to get me to replace before. Long story short, it turned out to be an issue with one of my tires. It's been about 4 years since then and I haven't had a single issue with my rack and pinion. They are now trying to charge me $3000 for the repair, but I declined and just got the update and a coolant flush on my engine/mect. When I picked up the car it is now pulling to both the left and the right intermittently. I looked at the notes and it appears the tech crossed rotated the tires. It doesn't appear that the tech did any other diagnostic work to rule out an issue with the sensor. Before I went into the dealership, I ran the codes and took a screenshot. I reset the codes, so I could get my power steering working again. I did have the typical service power steering light come on along with my abs and traction control lights. I am thinking that the issue is a bad steering angle sensor. I wasn't sure at first, but I saw a few youtube videos of other fords having this issue and it turned out to be a sensor issue. I wanted to check and see if anyone has an opinion or has experienced this issue before. If you have any information on possible diagnostics/calibrations I can do through forscan (I have the full license), that would be helpful as well. here are some of the videos I looked at: (I was having a hard time finding english videos) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWgY7FDNFt0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc59s9JbpDw&t=608s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsjZfI13fLQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed-KsE9m870&t=5s I wanted to thank everyone who helps on this forum. I have been able to get through quite a few issues and I am very appreciative of everyone's efforts.

Just finished my car today, loved the end result (minus license plates that are being replaced for black ones) Things done to it: -OEM Sport sideskirts, spoiler, Wheels -Aftermarket “Sharkfin” antenna -Akkon Headlights, tailights -Steeda lowering kit -Chrome trim/emblems blacked out -Wheels blacked out -Debadged (minus emblems) -Smoked side markers -Smoked 3rd brake light Waiting on custom made seat covers, I’ll post update when they arrive. Should be here Wednesday.

Got an issue and was hoping to get some advice. The front driver's seat has 3 motors. forward/reverse, front up/down and rear up/down. It's the front up/down that just stopped working. When I use the switch I can hear the motor still working but the gear does not move. Is this a stripped motor assembly or do I need a whole new track? Not sure where to go from here. Thanks!

Can anyone assist in possibly diagnosing this problem? I'm thinking the AC compressor is bad. Whenever the AC is on it sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Lifted the hood, and the noise is coming from the compressor area. I made a short video of the noise. I'm still getting semi-cold air. https://imgur.com/a/QghqFuR

Hi All, Wondering if anyone has a forscan spreadsheet for a 2010 fusion sport Thanks

My front end hit a rather large boulder awhile back, since then AC does not work . I added AC treatment with dye, and AC refrigerant ( polymer free of course ) and it still just blows hot air . Compressor does not engage either now. Rad is fine, no coolant leaked , but are there sensors or connectors up front near the rad that would cause this ? Damage is bumper and the passengers side grill and bumper . Any ideas?

I was considering the purchase of a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. Right now the idea of a 2010 over (as an example) a 2014 or 15 is a matter finances. Also I understand the 2010 was a very solid Hybrid car. My Honda Accord is a 1999 but only has 116,000 on it, so I don't absolutely need to buy another car at this time. An Accord Hybrid would of course be considerably more money. I wanted to get some thoughts form people on the 2010 Fusion Hybrid: Reliably and maintenance costs as well as what may be a major expense between 100 - 150,000 miles. Is 100,000 miles on a hybrid car, the same as 100,000 on an dedicated gasoline car as it pertains to reliability etc. Thanks, Clayton

Good morning everyone. As some of you know, I had some work done on my engine back in April, which involved removal of the head and replacement of one of the exhaust valves on cylinder 1. That was approximately 11,000 miles ago, and now, 2 oil changes ago. Many of you also know that I get regular used oil analysis done on the used oil that I've drained, to see how things are wearing inside the engine. Just gives a better idea of whether or not anything is problematic inside the engine. Interestingly enough, the UOA I got done prior to the engine work I had done was one of the reasons I brought it in. Anyways, following the work, I changed out the post-service oil at just under 3,000 miles, to help get some of the early wear metals, particulates, etc.. out, as well as to make sure nothing was wrong after the work.. and aside from some elevated Aluminum, Iron, Copper, and Silicon, things were good.. and these elevated numbers were still pretty low, and to be expected following top-end work. Cut to my most recent change, performed a couple weekends ago @ just under 238,000 miles.. The numbers have gone down even more, so I'm feeling pretty good about things. Thought I'd share them with you guys. Of course, I welcome any comments, etc..

While shifting through gears 1st - 3rd there is no issues. When the vehicle attempts to engage the 4th gear, the engine revs up a bit, but it is not excessive revving, feels like computer rev matching. During this time, there is no slippage, no grinding, no other notable or noticeable problems. The gear simply does not engage. After a few moments (3-5 seconds) it feels as though the computer recognizes a fault, and attempts to engage the last known working gear... Which unfortunately is often 2nd gear as it seems the computer will skip 3rd gear depending on acceleration applied. This causes a jolt, but feels normal for an automatic getting dropped into a lower gear while going a high speed for that gear. After some looking around, I read somewhere that it's possible this was a problem with one of the solenoids. I was curious if anyone else has had this problem, and what they did for a fix. I broke the vehicle down where needed to get into the solenoid valve body area. All I am waiting on is to replace them, but I didn't want to make a purchase if someone else was to say "WAIT, I DID THIS AND IT WORKED". Call me a rookie, I deserve it -- but when I went to drain the transmission fluid It was nasty, and smelled terrible. Could this cause an otherwise operable solenoid to temporarily malfunction? ​Here is the eBay page showing the solenoids I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/132018268320?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Car: 2010 mercury Milan Hybrid 105,000 mi – gas mileage around 32-34 2/2 heavy foot syndrome Problem: Sticking Parking Brake Topics: Test – do coated rotors last any longer than uncoated? Test – Do semi metallic centric pads vs centric ceramic pads? Tips on brake change and caliper reman. Write up on fixing sticky parking brake. A little review on some tools I used to help get the job done! I will make each section clear so that if you want to skip ahead you can. I have a 2010 mercury Milan hybrid – functionally identical to the fusion hybrid from the same year. These vehicles also share many parts between years 2006 and 2011. In my research, I have also found that the same caliper or similar set up used in Honda civics as well as a few VW products. I mention them to help as many people as possible with this problem. This type of caliper is used on many vehicles. Problem Detail: I started this project because my rear brakes were sticking whenever I used my parking brake. They would release however it would take about 45 min or so. The symptom seemed to get worse in the winter time giving the impression that the brakes would “FREEZE” and come off later. This chews up pads premature and can overheat and destroy calipers, rotors, and pads. There seem to be a lot of people complaining of this issue. Now that I understand it I think I have devised a good work around. The brakes on my hybrid were in decent condition with about 30% life left considering 100,000 + MI, I would not have changed them if I had not encountered this problem. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First things first *Always perform any changes to the brake system in axle pairs – DO NOT PUT ALTERNATING PARTS LEFT TO RIGHT YOU WILL GET UNPREDICTABLE RESULTS AND RISK SAFETY OF YOURSELF AND THOSE SHARING THE ROAD WITH YOU. Having said that in all caps I do think it is safe to have different brakes back to front – I did pick choose the semi metallic to be up front to maintain the bias toward the front brakes. Test 1 Do coated rotors last longer without rust than plain? Simple problem – easy solution Purchased two different sets of rotors using tire rack online shipped fantastic and great service. I def recommend – however I have noticed that Rock Auto seems to have great pricing and service as well – you will do well with either. Front Brembo Style: Plain Finish: Plain Manufacturer Part #: 405 32085 253 Rear Style: Plain Centric 120 series with coating/paint – not heat treated Finish: Black Manufacturer Part #: 120.61097 Note: (Rear) Plain solid rotor. for models from 12/09-2011 - different part number for other years. I will watch these over the next few months and upload a follow up when they start to rust. I want to see If I can detect any difference in the two. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Test 2 – pads On tire rack the ratings and reviews are sparse and the pads I chose are rated very similar on tire racks system. I want to mention again that you should ALWAYS KEEP BRAKE CHANGES IN AXLE PAIRS – do the same left to right per axle. That goes to calipers, rotors, pads and service, always in axle pairs. I purchased from Tire Rack and had great service and shipping. Fronts Posi Quiet Semi-Metallic Pads Manufacturer Part #: 104.11640 Note: Front brake pads Rears Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads Material: Ceramic Manufacturer Part #: 105.11640 The plan is to watch these and see if I feel an improvement in braking feel, force and see if they live up to the rating system on tire rack. The semi metallic should dust a bit more and they could be a little louder. I am currently under the impression that most brake noise is from having poorly lubricated or serviced parts or parts that are wearing out. I chose to put the semi metallic up front because I live in north TN and they supposedly have more bite in the cold. I considered some of the EBS Red Stuff pads but came back to my senses, realizing this was not a race car... Still if I were experimenting (and I am) I would put the higher friction pads up front to keep the bias correct for greater braking up front and lesser in rear; just in case a panic stop comes up on you. Both sets of pads came with install hardware of the plane steel type. I read on another site that hardware/clips with a rubberized backing seem to keep quieter. I did install with clips from rock auto, but also applied caliper lube to the backs and pad slide areas to keep them quiet. Remember never put caliper grease, or any other lubricant on the rotor or pad surface unless it is specifically stated for that purpose. Left is plane steel / right is the coated stuff. Not sure what the coating is. It seems to have some fiber and texture that I can only assume is a urethane or hard rubber for vibration and noise reduction. Maybe someone can enlighten me. In any case the objective is to monitor the pads over the next few weeks to months and try to update based on my findings – I will repost based on dust, noise and stopping power. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brake Service Tips I did service or “reman” the calipers – an enlightening process because it’s not as complicated as it seems. It would have been $150+ (minus a core charge) at each wheel to replace them. Instead I spent an hour cleaning everything up and less than $5 per caliper to replace the seals, bleed screws and time to clean them up.... not nearly as scary a process as we would be led to believe. (always service in pairs to ensure they function the same- just as with any other brake changes AXLE PAIR CHANGES ONLY) Caliper Reman Kits. Front - CENTRIC 14391013 Brake Caliper Repair Kit; Services One Caliper Rear - CENTRIC 14342014 Brake Caliper Repair Kit; Services One Caliper Bleeder Screws - CARLSON H9430 – $1.10 per wheel CARLSON H5810Q Disc Hardware Kit - $5.74 for rear axle. CARLSON H5786Q Disc Hardware Kit - $6.66 for front axle. On the Rear (Left) I only used the main seal and the working seal that goes around the piston (the larger seals). I changed the smaller seal on the back under the parking brake cam and that was a bear. Easy to pull out but a Bi*** to get back in. I do not recommend unless yours is damaged. I did not take the ring clips out and change the innards. If your parking brake actuator does not move well ditch a homemade reman and pony up for a factory reman caliper. (seriously that part was hard) For the remainder of the reman job I cleaned everything up with a trusty harbor freight wire wheel, dremel and wire brush. Any friction surface got cleaned down to bare metal and lubricated with caliper grease. DO NOT SPRAY WD40 OR ANY OTHER LUBRICANT NOT INTENDED FOR BRAKE PARTS ON BRAKE PARTS – the rubber seals will swell and crack leading to failure. The caliper piston easily came out on the rears by actuating the parking brake cam. A lot of people recommend getting the funky little tool that helps to turn the rear calipers in and out. I have it pictured below. I would save the 13 bucks and get an extra can of brake cleaner. Cheapest price was home depot. About a dollar cheaper than the boys or the zone…adds up per can. In any case running the piston in and out with a pair of needle nose pliers was simple. The front caliper pistons can be pushed out by pressing on the brake with the brake lines still attached. I cleaned up the pistons with the wire brush and brake clean. Prior to reinstalling the seals I “rinsed” them in brake fluid and lubricated the seals with brake fluid. Please reference the video for tips on getting the seal back on. There are several methods and it is not as hard as it seems. I did not follow his advice to put the brake grease on the parts subjected to brake fluid – the brake fluid was a great lubricator and I wanted to keep the fluid as “sterile” as possible. Figured I’m flushing it why add another chemical to the mix. Brake grease Is for metal on metal friction surfaces. The pictures below show the parts I am talking about. I am sorry I don’t have as many as I wanted to it’s a dirty job and working a camera with brake fluid is not advised…stuff is nasty wear gloves and don’t touch any painted surface. The Kits shown above for caliper hardware include all new rubber for the other parts of the caliper. I did clean up the pins with the wire brush and cleaned out the old grease by jamming a bunch of new grease into the hole and using the pin to extrude the old stuff. When new fresh grease comes out your done. Don’t fill the hole with grease it needs to have full range of motion. Packing them will prevent being able to insert them fully. Also, the boots need to be “burped” after install. They should sit in a neutral position without excessive air or vacuumed within the boot. I would advise you mark the bracket to indicate which side the guide pins go. They have a front and back with one pin having a rubber grommet. I used a zip tie on the side with a grommet to keep track. All things considered this is an easy job, took me a few hours because I hadn’t done brakes in a long time and I was very meticulous. The second side went way faster. I did use a small amount of anti-seize on threads only. One guy on you tube advised to use that everywhere…BAD IDEA will eat up all the rubber. Don’t listen to that advice from the video. When bleeding the brakes - just go buy some 1/4 tubing from home depot and get yourself a jar. place the tube under the surface of brake fluid in the jar. You can bleed by yourself without spending a ton of money. I would recommend bleeding with the ignition off. The car will send all kinds of errors and the master cylinder seemed to suck fluid back in so fast it would trap air. Don't be shy with bleeding - get ALL the air out - go till no bubbles are seen, and then do a few more. I used 1.5 large bottles of brake fluid. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parking brake fix, and probably the reason you’re here. I started by replacing the actual cable. MOTORCRAFT BRCA55 {#AE5Z2A815D} $18.00 Let me preface with “this was a s***** job to do”. Not impossible but tough for a first time and no lift. Would I do it again? Yes because I'm in favor of my vehicles and safety systems working as they should. It involves lifting the center console and working around the heat shield under the car. However, it’s probably a $300 dollar fix from the stealer. I used the help of the Haynes manual for the car to properly remove the center console (not the bad part) without breaking anything. Also after getting the center console free instead of wrestling it out of the car I suspended it out of the way with a bungee cord. The difficult part was getting to the work area. Haynes recommended dropping the exhaust pipe out of the way. If you're able to do that the job would be super easy. I chose to work around that and bent the heat shield out of the way to get to the cable. New washers and bolts are needed to get the exhaust back in place. The shield does bend back easy. I would recommend keeping it because it keeps the heat off the cable you are about to replace… Hard part was getting all the attachment bolts off the heat shield. Two of them were studs held on with clips. I tried to take them off cleanly but ended up just breaking the clips and marring the threads unfortunately. After the heat shield was bent out of the way removing the cable was much easier until it was time to re-insert. Getting the lines through the floor meant working in a small space with the heat shield right where I needed to be. It would go easier if you planned to take the exhaust down and remove the heat shield. I did not remove it because I didn’t have the parts to replace the exhaust after. To get the cable up I “fished” it through the undercarriage using some wire I had laying around. The part rock auto sent was a motorcraft direct replacement. The attachment points on the body were exact, there is little room to do this wrong. It would be impossible to do this backwards. At first it seemed too short but remember it is meant to be the exact length. I needed to take up all slack in the line, sliding the sheaths up through the interior bracket all the way and getting it tight. I got them to move up by yanking on them as hard as I could. After cycling them a few times with the handbrake they fit perfect. When trying to get this part to fit remember (when you’re about to give up) the design needs to be such that it is EXACT; no wiggle room or you won’t be able to transmit the mechanical energy correctly. Taking that into account if they send the correct part # BRCA55, it is only sourced from motorcraft and is identical to the one you just took off. I would advise consulting the Haynes manual for your vehicle and year as well to take things down easily. I’m stealing some info from another forum to help give some other instructions, they are pretty much the same. http://www.mazda3forums.com/110-suspension-brakes-technical-information-faqs-how-tos/393575-how-replace-parking-brake-cable-pic-heavy.html http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/12621-parkingemergency-brake-cable-replacement/ Here's the procedure: Remove the floor console. For additional information, refer to Instrument Panel and Console See: Body and Frame\Interior Molding / Trim\Console\Service and Repair. Loosen the parking brake control adjusting nut. Disconnect the rear parking brake cables from the equalizer. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Jacking and Lifting See: Maintenance\Vehicle Lifting\Service and Repair. Support the muffler and tailpipe with a suitable jack stand. Separate the 2 muffler and tailpipe isolators from the vehicle. Remove and discard the 2 catalytic converter-to-exhaust flexible pipe nuts and separate the exhaust flexible pipe and the catalytic converter. Discard the gasket. To install, position a new gasket and tighten the new nuts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). ** (In my procedure #’s 5, 6, and 7 were omitted and was still able to complete the project) Remove the heat shield.Remove the 6 nuts, the 2 pin-type retainers and the heat shield.Remove the 2 parking brake cable routing bracket nuts.To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).Remove the 6 parking brake cable routing bracket bolts.To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft). Remove the 2 parking brake cable routing clips. Disconnect the rear parking brake cables from the calipers and remove the cables. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Adjust the parking brake cable. For additional information, refer to Parking Brake Cable Adjustment See: Adjustments. Ok so I got everything back together and tested my brake. To my dismay the problem was better, but not solved. Damn… I took a break overnight to think about the issue and read up. There are multiple stories of people changing calipers and cables, also continuing to have the problem. I considered changing the return spring but it would be impossible for me to design a new spring. It seems the replacement springs only come on new or reman calipers. After sleeping on it I took another look at the problem and figured why CHANGE the spring if I could just ADD a spring… the way I saw it there was a direct linear attachment point to the upper control arm perfectly placed across from the parking brake cam. **at this point I invite you to scroll down and look at the pictures below to help you visualize. (left is left and right is right) I ran to HD and Lowes to check out what springs were available. They had a decent selection. I took measurements before heading out and the distance between my proposed attachment point and the cable actuator (let’s call it the cam) was about 4.5 inches. When pulling the handbrake, it only moved apart another ½ to ¾ inch. Spring choice would be important but simple. The spring had to be “working” at the neutral position or else it would not have the power to retract completely. I ended up choosing an expansion spring with a neutral length of 3 inches and a working load of 4.5 lbs. between the home stores you can go from 1 lb to 65 lbs. The best part is that the springs are sold in pairs for $3-$5 bucks!!! Seriously I bet half of you could just do what I did in the end and make out just fine. I drilled a hole for the spring attachment on the upper control arm and hooked the spring to the handbrake cam. BAM, it has since actuated on and off with no issue. I admit when you see the pictures one side is better placed than the other…something about hindsight being 20/20. The lower attachment point offers a better angle of pull and allows the spring to work in its linear orientation. Final thoughts I don’t seem to notice the added spring weight on the handbrake lever inside. I wouldn’t go super strong in this application because we don’t need it to stress those parts, just help them out. I do think 4-10 lbs. has the sweet spot. I am open to thoughts. Please repost and let everyone know how its working out. If I had thought of this first I would have tried this instead of all the hassle I went through. The springs have a good chance of rusting out, but really if my brake works I would change these yearly for $4 bucks a SET. If you don’t make swiss cheese out of your control arm I don’t think we are harming the structural integrity of the arm, choose the smallest hole you need to get the spring through. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools for the Job I had purchased these over time but wanted to give them a shout since they helped so much. Used the following Milwaukee M12 line Just fantastic. The 3/8ths Impact is awesome. Fits great into the cramped space around the wheels and has the perfect power for this type of use. Most of the time I kept it on the low or #1 setting, about 17 ft/lbs torque. The #2 or high setting is rated around 100 ft/lbs, quite perfect for the wheels since that’s what they are torqued to. I did use a torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts. The lights are hands down the best I have used. The square light is the M12 Rover, the longer light the lantern. If you had to choose one for cost I would go for the Rover. Its bright and the angle and ability to hang it is perfect for auto work. Being able to stick it up out of the way is perfect to keep shadows to a minimum and not trip over it. I was having to keep cycling out the batteries because I was taking so long but only once per light. I did have them on start to finish including clean up. 10 hrs.…too long. The dremel tool works like any other dremel but is cordless. I also use it to trim my pup’s nails. Plenty of good reviews on this stuff. I highly recommend the Milwaukee M12 lineup. Harbor freight tools used Jack 3-ton low profile $86 with sale and 20% coupon– did its job with no complaints – I would never trust any jack if you’re under your car. Please always support with quality jack stands. 8-inch Grinder/Buffer – less than $50 with sale and 20% coupon – (never buy anything at HF without the 20% off, your silly if you do) 5/8ths arbor. I changed the grinding wheel for a wire brush from Home Depot. Worked for me. I am not a pro, just Joe DIY; I am actually a physician who likes to tinker. Probably also why I’m so long winded. Hope this helps

Hey all, So, I am having some odd vibration and clicking sounds in my 2010 Fusion and hopefully someone can shed some light. I have a 2010 fusion with about 100,000 miles on it. For about a week or so now, every time i turned left or right (mostly all the way), I would hear an almost clicking like sound coming from the front as i would drive off. Once I straightened out, the sound went away. I do not notice it any time after that. Yesterday though when i was driving down I75, my car would start to like shake or like be bumpy, or like a thumping sound, (not sure how to describe it) if i turned my steering wheel ever so slightly to the right, in one specific spot actually. If I kept it a straight, turned left or moved the wheel left, it would go away. Actually it would go away if i turned or moved the steering wheel even more to the right, there was this spot that if ever just touched my wheel right it would like vibrate and almost feel like a bumpy road. It would be worse at faster speeds. Do not really notice it in city driving. Has anyone experienced this? Are the two matters related? Sorry for the terrible description, but I don't know how to better describe it. Any advice or input it always appreciated.

I am trying to troubleshoot what is happening with my headlight. I recently bought the car, and all the lights worked until a day or so ago. Now the driver side headlight is not working. I changed the bulb, not it. Checked fuses, struggled with this but im almost sure that is not the problem either.

Just purchased a 2010 Fusion SEL 3.0 FWD with only 7100 miles. I won't disclose actual price but it was south of 14k. Leather, sunroof, automatic w select shift, sony audio package with SYNC, all power, dual exhaust, rear spoiler, non navigation stereo. This cat was sold to an 80 year old in 2010 brand new for 28k. She drove it home and parked it in her garage only drive to the hair salon, grocery, and church. She passed away Aug '15, RIP, and her daughter settled the estate. Lucky local ad troling turned up this deal, KBB and NADA value close to 17K. All stock. Looking for ideas and on reliable, smart upgrades. Aesthetically and performance. Starting with window tint, possible plasti dip (black) grill to preserve chrome, and Thule roof rack with cargo basket for travel. Thanks! Glad to be part of the Fusion family.

I'm looking at a loaded 2010 Fusion Sport AWD. ( Would love some opinions about this one. Seems a little over priced, but also in fantastic shap. Thoughts on reliablity, quality, deal, etc?

Hey there, So today there were killer rain and flash floods here in Deep South Texas. I was driving home and was pulling out of a walgreens parking lot and drove into deeper water than i thought there was. I heard a scrape and watched the water splash. I drove a little bit further and all of a sudden i hear a thud and look behind me and see that my driver side wheel well /fender cover is ripped off as well as long skinny guard that is directly connected to the bumper. (I have had some body issues and that little skinny part was already breaking off. ) All of a sudden i got the wrench light and the check engine light. I got home and let the car sit for a bit (10-15 minutes) and then went out there with my little bluetooth OBD2 reader. I read the code and it comes up as P0713 - transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit high input . The check engine light is still on but the wrench light has since gone away. Does anyone what may have cause this? I would like to fix this myself it is simple (praying) or would i be able to drive it to the dealer. I was like a quarter mile from when it happened to my house but that drive back, i did not notice any sort of issues or clunking or anything. I am scouring the internet, but cannot come up with anything. It is now dark so i cannot go check it out further but will be doing that tomorrow if it is dry enough

Hey, I've got a 2012 Fusion that I do so love. The chrome grill on it I have plasti-dipped, however being that it is the grill, the plasti-dip tends to chip a lot since I do a lot of back road driving (I live out in the middle of the country) I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge on where I can find one (reasonably priced of course, I'm ballin on a college student budget here). The only one I have been able to find that is not chrome is quite expensive for each piece. If you don't have ideas on where I could buy one, what about how I could get it permanently blacked out? Maybe professionally painted or some other DIY tips?

As the title says, can Navi(most importantly the screen) actually be installed into a car that didn't come with one previously. I'm asking because I don't have a Fusion yet, however I am in the market of buying one within a few months. I want to know if I can actually install it, along with a backup cam. If no then I know I need to find a car with one already installed. Thank you to anyone whom replies to help me.

I'm hoping this is the right place to be posting this, but I'm wondering if there is a real difference between between the '10-'12 models that would be noticeable. I plan on getting a Ford Fusion within a few months and I'm looking at a nice 2011 Sport version, however it's a 3 hour drive to get it while there's a nice 2010 model pretty much 20 minutes away. I'm trying to figure out if there is a real difference and if I would miss out on any decent updates if I decide to get the 2010 instead of the 2011 version. Thanks for helping in advance.

Hey all, I have a 2010 Fusion SEL that has been having some A/C issues. (fyi its full of freon) A while back my fusion stopped blowing. After posting here and doing some inspecting, i noticed that the blower motor had gone as well as the resistor. I then switched out the blower motor and the resistor and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to about two weeks ago, and my a/c again had cut off and i was upset. After looking at the resistor i noticed that the connector/pigtail had melted. I bought a new resistor and a new pigtail for it and spliced it in. I noticed that it wasnt blowing as cold as it should. It seemed like room temperature air. Sometimes it seems to blow really cold and sometimes not at all. It blows strong, but just not as cold as i want. I dont know why sometimes it works well and sometimes it doesnt. Usually does not though. Anyway, about a day ago I noticed that the passenger side was blowing really hot air. I am not sure why. That is where I am at now. I took a look under the glove box but nothing seems to be bad. I wonder if maybe this has something to do with my splicing job or what. I am going to maybe try to resplice it but its 100 plus here in Texas and i am way too fair skinned to be out there in direct sunlight and this heat. Maybe try in a few hours. Hopefully someone has some insight and advice. Anything is appreciated.

Can someone tell me what services items are required for 100,000 mile service for a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. I've seen all sorts of conflicting information, & want to make sure what items are 'required,' 'recommended,' or otherwise 'optional.' Any help appreciated, & thanks in advance! George.