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Hello; Thought I'd post up my first modification to my 2018 Energi SE Luxury for those who are interested in knowing how to do this. As in my intro post, I'm a DIYer with about 40 years' auto mechanics experience. I wasn't happy that my car didn't come with fog lights, but I wanted the "OE" type LED style of the '17+ lights as I feel they fit best with the look of the front end. I did some research, looked up some catalogs, and took my best guess. Since my headlamp switch had the grey wire in pin 14 of the headlamp switch according to this post: Given that, I ordering the following: LED Fog Lamp Assembly, LH: HS73-15A255-CD LED Fog Lamp Assembly, RH: HS73-15A254-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, LH: HS7Z-17B814-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, RH: HS7Z-17B814-CA Headlight Switch for Fog Lamps: DG9Z-11654-BA (SW6985) My Fusion does NOT have auto-park / adaptive cruise control sensors in the front bumper, so I ordered the: Fog Lamp Harness: HG9Z-15K867-C The chrome bezels on the front of the 17+ Fusions ARE removable, but be VERY careful when doing so - The tabs are brittle and will break off with very little force. I only lost one tab each, but you may not be so lucky. If you want them on-hand, order: Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, LH: HS7Z-15266-AB Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, RH: HS7Z-15266-AA Note that the fog lamps themselves are LED, and not serviceable. Thus, they're expensive to order new from Ford - About $190 each. I happen to find some 2nd hand ones on Ebay, but make sure you do a thorough check! There are two tabs with bolt holes on each assembly plus a locator "tab" that are broken on most of the Ebay ones - Make sure you get the ones with the tabs in-tact (not repaired). Start by removing the bumper cover. This is accomplished with a screwdriver or plastic trim removal tool, a T25 Torx socket, a 10mm socket, and a 7mm socket. Remove the upper T25 Torx screws from either side of the grille, right by the headlights: Remove the 10mm bolts (3) from the top of the bumper cover: Remove the plastic two-part clips from the radiator cover by first using a flat-head screwdriver to lift up on the inner part of the clip: Then pull the lower part out with the screwdriver or your fingers (it should easily lift out): Turn the car on "Accessory" and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to access the clip and bolts holding the inner fender cover to the bumper cover: Remove the two visible 7mm screws and the plastic clip using the same method as with the radiator cover: Peel back the inner fender cover to reveal two 8mm bolts holding the bumper cover to the fender. Remove those bolts, best accomplished with long extension and universal joint on the ratchet: Turn the wheel to the left to repeat with the passenger's side inner fender cover. Finally, remove the 10-12 7mm screws holding the bumper cover to the underside of the car: With those screws removed, the bumper cover should be loose. Pull the bumper cover away from the fenders using a plastic pry tool as not to scratch the paint. Once the cover is loose, three wire connectors must be detached. A small one on the upper driver's side of the inner cover: The main front bumper cover harness on the driver's side, just forward of the front wheel: And the active shutter harness: Here's where things went sideways. I actually didn't disconnect this harness, as it is connected at the center of the shutters and has several clips that hold it onto the lower radiator support. More on that in a minute. Set the bumper cover on something soft like a moving blanket or similar to avoid scratching it: When I compared the two bumper harnesses, I immediately knew something was wrong. The original harness (HG9Z-15K867-A) had two wires that the replacement harness didn't. The grey and white wires were missing in the new harness. Turns out, those wires are for the active shutters, along with the common ground wire that the harness uses for everything. The 2018s may be different than the 2017s in that the active shutters are perhaps powered by a different harness? Don't know. There's no mention of the active shutters on this harness in any of the Ford parts literature - Only whether or not the car has fog no lights (HG9Z-15K867-A), fog lights but NO park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-C), or both fog lights and park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-H). The -F and -L harnesses are for the Fusion Sport, and not applicable here. Regardless, I knew I was up sh*t's creek without the active shutter wires (check engine lights galore if those don't work). So I just went for it. I knocked out the blocked pinouts (shown by the yellow arrow) in the two pin locations for the active shutter wires (red arrows): I carefully cut the white and grey wire out of the original harness and inserted it into the new harness, wrapping them with friction (NOT ELECTRICAL) tape. There was a lot of carnage of the original harness. I spliced in the ground wire for the active shutters to the common ground line on the harness: And heat shrank the junction: Before re-wrapping the harness: With the wiring sorted, it was on to the fog light grilles. Remove the blank bezels from the bumper cover just by pushing from the inside of the cover outwards: Here is the blank bezel with the correct fog lamp bezel: Remove the chrome bezel from the blank CAREFULLY. I ended up breaking a tab on each, and I was being pretty careful: Place the chrome trim onto the fog lamp bezel: To mount the fog lamps themselves, you must purchase a total of four "speed clips" with bolts, around M8 or M10 size judging by the holes in the fog lamp tabs. I had some SAE clips laying around, but you may want to go "all metric". Mount the speed clips to the fog lamps themselves, and place the fog lights into the bumper cover BEFORE you re-mount the bezels. It works much easier this way. Use the locator tab on each of the assemblies and place the speed clips bolts on from the rear, through the bumper cover, into the speed clips on each side of the fog lamp assembly. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good picture of this process. Place the bezels back into the bumper cover, and the fog lamps will fit through and slightly protrude from the bezels. Remount the bumper cover, starting the three 10mm bolts (but do not tighten!) and T25 Torx bolts to hold the cover. Then, using the locator "christmas tree" style clips to hold the cover to the fenders, start the 8mm bolts on either side of the locator clips. Tighten ONLY after every bolt is started, being sure to line up the fenders and bumper covers properly. Replace the 7mm bolts on the underside of the bumper cover, plastic clips for the radiator cover, and tighten the 10mm / T25 bolts when finished. Use a plastic pry tool to work the headlamp switch out of place in the interior, pulling it out of the dashboard, disconnecting it from the harness. Plug the new switch in, and push into place until all four retaining tabs "click". Hit the ignition, and test them out! Hopefully this is helpful to those who want the OE fog light upgrade to an SE that didn't come with them. Also, if anyone has information on the appropriate harness for the active shutter controls, it would help out those who try this in the future instead of my having to Frankenstein the harness! Dan

So as the title says, my driver's side rear window auto up doesn't always work on my 2017 Fusion Titanium. I can do the relearn and auto up will work until I roll the window down more than halfway to which point I need to do the relearn again. Note that auto down always works. It's quite an odd behavior. I figured it has to be something with a position sensor (or however it knows what spot the window is at). During my research someone had said on another forum to pull power to the window while manually operating it to reset the regulator control module, but that didn't help. It's not triggering any sort of pinch detection so I find it odd that it's just that window and just auto up. I figured I would reach out and see what others think, possibly a bad window regulator assembly?

I have a 2017 ford fusion and I was wondering if anyone has any links to body kits. The only aftermarket things I can find are spoilers.

So I just got this car like a week ago.. I bought it used from a dealership. I was sitting in my car last night and I noticed that it started making this sound and I'm not sure what it is. At first I thought it was the CD player trying to eject my phone mount because it goes into the CD player partially but then even upon removing it, it continued and I also don't think that it would explain the rear speaker making that loud popping noise. The video is only 2 seconds long but it does this repeatedly over and over and over. I was sitting in my car for a good 20 minutes just listening to this sound and then I finally got annoyed and turned my car back on to stop the sounds. Does anyone have any ideas? VID_20200301_002534~4.mp4

Hi All, I may be joining your ranks very soon! I'm extremely interested in purchasing a 2017 Fusion Titanium from a dealer in my area...it has 58,000 miles, and is priced at $14,500. It looks to be in good condition (former rental car, started service in 2016, sold in 2017 to a new owner, now for sale again). It's the "base Titanium", so no sunroof/nav/lane keeping/cooled seats/etc. I'm fine with that. It does have SYNC3, and the LED headlights/foglights/updated body style of course. I wonder if the mileage would give anyone here pause. It seems to be a good car (I plan on getting a pre-purchase inspection performed, of course) and I don't drive more than 7500 miles yearly. What do you Fusion owners say - is the 2017 titanium a good buy, and would you buy yours again?

Hello ford enthusiasts! Wanted advise on an option to buy a Ford Fusion Hybrid SE 2017 as a used vehicle. The odometer is at 3200. The car was used as a courtesy vehicle at the dealership. At $20,000 does it sound like a good deal?

Hi, Is there a way to add puddle lights to a 2017 SE? I have some nice LED "eagle eye" lamps ( I know can be added to the existing mirror housings. What I am not sure is the wiring. Are the wires available on the door wiring harness for the mirror assembly and are the wires active? The alternative is tapping into the overhead lighting but I would need to find a good place to tap that... Any ideas?? THANKS.

Do the 2017 Fusions have LED headlights? Either as an option or standard based on trim level. Is the actual light produced by LEDs or does it just mean halogen lights with LED running lamps?

Had to get the Windshield replaced due to a factory defect in the glass lamination right in drivers view on my 2017 Fusion Platinum... Will follow up with after pictures.

Hello everyone! Just purchased a 2017 Fusion Energi Platinum in Ruby Red Clearcoat. Traded in my 2008 MKZ. I have owned a dozen Fords over the years. My wife has a 2011 MKZ, and my toy is my 2000 Mustang GT Convertible. Looking forward to learning from other Fusion owners.

Just purchased my very first Ford Fusion. It's a 2017 Platinum model. Ordered it over 3 months ago, long wait from the factory but wow... Was it worth the wait. Previously I have a 2015 Ford Focus, traded it in as it was too small.

I'm heading to the show next week. Can't wait see it. http://www.autoblog.com/2016/01/11/2017-ford-fusion-sport-detroit-auto-show/ https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia-mobile/fna/us/en/news/2016/01/11/ford-unveils-new-fusion.html Nice lighting: