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My 2013 Ford Fusion S with a 6F35 transmission had recently exhibited symptoms of jerky transmission shifts around the 90,000 mile mark. It eventually got to the point that the transmission would not engage in 1st or 2nd gear and instead, after waiting for approximately 7 seconds, would loudly engage into overdrive mode. From my reading of information on AllDataDIY, this is a safety feature that defaults into certain parameters. This of course generates an orange check engine light in the form of a water pump icon. This is the stored DTC of P0751 (and most likely P2700 as well per the service manual). When the transmission tries to engage the first gear governed by shift solenoid A, it essentially revs the engine without effect on the transmission. It will then go back to overdrive. After a few failed attempts, it will illuminate the orange wrench and stay in safety mode from that point forward, until the car restarts. After changing the transmission fluid with Mercon LV directly from the dealership on three (3) separate occasions, the problem persists. The other gear of reverse is fine and it smoothly engages. If anything, I have preserved the functionality of the transmission with the passive drain and fill procedures along with slowly driving in RPM ranges of 1500 to 2000. On a side note, I determined that the fill procedure involving the oil leveling plug on the side of the transmission case is absolutely necessary. When I originally drained the fluid and measured, I filled back the same amount. When the transmission shuddered upon reverse being engaged, I added the extra quarter of a quart of ATF. This fixed the problem but then something strange happened next. As I was driving down the road, I would hear these burping sounds or popping noises that originally sounded like problems with the CV joints. When I added an additional quarter of a quart of Mercon LV ATF to continue to test the amount of fluid needed without opening that oil leveling plug, it got worse. In fact, it started making these bubbling noises while in park so I decided to burp the system with a new drain and fill. When I filled the fluid again with 4.25 quarts and started the car, shifting the gears and staying in park, I opened the oil leveling plug hole with a 5mm hex key. (Of note was the levelness of the car, verified with a simple level purchased at Walmart for a few dollars.) Nothing came out so I closed the port, turned off the car, filled another .25 quarts and repeated the procedure. Again, nothing came out but there was now fluid on the threads. The popping noises went away and the shifting has been fine in the current safety mode. Now that I want to replace the Solenoid A, I am having difficulty removing the 20-pin connector on the main control cover, underneath the air box. Has anyone ever dealt with this connector before?

Hey guys, I'm new here (just joined), and I'm picking up a 2016 fusion titanium for $16k with 27k miles on it on Monday. It was a fleet vehicle (rental) and I'm making the dealer do a trans fluid change and oil change and coolant flush as part of the purchase. I'm already planning to get the car dipped with proline (world rally blue) and picking up CP-E intercooler here (will be tuned by torrie mcphail as he's my go to guy for anything not cobb). I'm probably going to do the gtx2976r (slightly bigger than my focus st's gtx2971r) due to the fact that it gives me more room on pump gas and spool is not a concern since it's auto and will hold boost through the shifts and the gtx2971r spooled very well on my focus st (3500 rpm 20 psi) so 3800 rpm is acceptable for me on an auto car. I'm not new to the 1st gen 2.0 EB motor, but I am new to the 6F35. I've done tons of research and determined it's probably not going to survive past 370 wtq as it has a 37% reduction in tq capacity compared to the 6F55 and the highest taurus sho I've seen is like 600 wtq. Looking in the parts catalog it appears the 2017 fusion both 2.0 and 2.7 v6 tt are using the 6F55. Rebuilding the 6F35 is probably not worth the money when you can have a 6F55 for $2,400. and probably installed for $3,200. So while I don't plan on doing trans anytime soon and will probably rag on it until it dies, when the upgrade time comes will the 2017 fusion 2.0 6F55 bolt right in? Does anyone know this? My other builds: Fiesta ST: Focus ST: 2016 Mustang GT: ================================================================ 2017 Fusion 2.0T/2.7 TT Trans Assembly and discounted parts link G3GZ-7000-B 6F55 http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=afGuDVF3uXy0vCy0IR4QZw%3d%3d&id=423059280&m=44&search=true&year=2017&make=Ford&model=Fusion Discounted link: https://www.fordlincolnpartsdepot.com/oem-parts/ford-automatic-transmission-asy-g3gz7000b

Hey guys. I just bought a 2015 Fusion Titanium w/ 2.0 Ecoboost as a family car. I already know of a couple issues with the 6F35. Did Ford fix/improve anything for 2015? Also, what tuners would you guys recommend?

6F35 – HARSH TRANSMISSION ENGAGEMENT DURING ACTIVE START/STOP EVENT AND DTC P0C27 Publication Date: September 1, 2016 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge ISSUE: Some 2014-2016 Fusion and 2015-2016 Edge vehicles equipped with a 6F35 transmission and active start/stop feature may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with a harsh transmission engagement after an active stop/start event. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0C27 will be stored in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory. This condition may be caused by air entering the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the concern. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Using an Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) or equivalent scan tool retrieve DTCs. Is DTC P0C27 present in the PCM memory? a. Yes – proceed to Step 2. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. 2. Check the transmission build date. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. Was the transmission built on or before 2/26/2016? a. Yes – proceed to Step 3. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 3. Remove the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 4. Remove and discard the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. (Figure 1) Figure 1 5. Install a new transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube which contains a check ball. 6. Reinstall the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 7. Clear DTCs. PART NUMBER PART NAME DG9Z-7A136-B Gasket – Pump W715931-S437 Bolts – Pump (3 Req) DG9Z-7890-G Pick Up Tube XT-10-QLVC Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 160111A 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge 6F35 Transmission: Retrieve DTCs And Replace The Transmission Fluid Auxiliary Pump Supply Tube (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.6 Hrs. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 7890 42

2014-2016 Multiple Vehicles – 6F35 – Harsh Reverse And Harsh/Delayed 3rd And 5th Up/Down Shifts – Without DTCs – Built On 1-Jan-2014 And Through 31-Dec-2015 Multiple 2014-2016 vehicles equipped with 6F35 transmission and built on 1-Jan-2014 and through 31-Dec-2015 may exhibit harsh reverse engagement and harsh/delayed 3rd and 5th gear up/down shifts with no DTCs present. This may be due to a mechanically binding shift solenoid B (SSB). Verify harsh reverse and 3rd and 5th gear shift events are present. Using IDS, identify the band number of SSB for use when ordering parts. Remove the main control. Disassemble and thoroughly clean the valve body and solenoid body to remove any contaminants. Replace SSB, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM) section 307-01. Using IDS, clear transmission adaptive tables.

I have a 2010 fusion with the 6f35 trans. I recently developed an oil leak and quickly diagnosed it as one of the CV shaft seals at the transmission. Looked like it was the drivers side so i ordered all the parts necessary to do the job. There is a terrific youtube video on replacing the driver side bushing/seal/shaft and i know i can do this by myself. The problem is as follows..... i noticed that there was also a couple drops of oil on the trans mount, which seemed odd to me if it was only the drivers side seal leaking. So, i sprayed a bunch of degreaser all around and cleaned the area up real nice, then took it out on a short drive to warm the fluids to accelerate the leak process. I drove it up on ramps and lucky me!!! Not just the drivers side, but also the passenger side seal leaks! It was a short, 20 minute test drive, and there was fluid just starting to develop around where each shaft goes into the transmission; but it hadn't started to drip and cover other areas yet, so i know it is two separate leaks. It is much slower on the passenger side, not that it really matters sense both need to be replaced. But i have been unable to find any how-to videos or write ups on doing the passenger side. Any info i can find seems to be concerning the drivers side axle shaft/seal. But the passenger side simply looks different. Ive attached photos of the driver side(1st) and passenger side (2nd) for those who are unfamiliar with what they look like. (pictures taken before the test drive so that is why it looks like there is no leaking) My question is, does anyone know if the passenger side uses different tools than the drivers side? I already have the special tools for the drivers side (bushing puller, bushing installer to set bushing at correct position, seal installer) but will those work on the passenger side as well? Because just visually looking at it, it appears different. I dont want to get the drivers side done, have the passenger cv shaft pulled out then discover uh-oh, i dont have the correct tools to complete the job. I would really like to do the job myself to save some money. I have contemplated just doing the drivers side, then take it to the dealer to do the passenger side to cut the bill in half, but that is a waste of expensive trans fluid (fill it up simply to drive it to the dealer for it to be drained out again). I would either like the dealer to tackle the whole job, or do it all myself. Preferably the latter. So has anyone done this before, especially the passenger side? Driver side i am comfortable with, but totally foreign to the passenger side. Or better yet, but a long-shot, does anyone know of a write up or a tutorial of someone changing their passenger side cv shaft and seal assembly? Thanks.

Hello, I mentioned this topic earlier in different contexts. But it is driving me nuts. The car emits a high pitched "jingling" sound. At first you may think it is similar to jingle bells rattling very rapidly. But then the SM at the dealer accompanied me for a test drive and he concluded it is the sound of hydraulic fluid in the transmission going through the pipes. And i now do see the resemblance of this sound to water going through plumbing in an basement, just stronger and higher in pitch. His conclusion is that this is normal. Every time a Fusion passes by I pay closer attention but I do not seem to hear it. Am i the only one to notice/suffer this sound? Is it really normal as the SM claims?

I am going to ask my Ford dealer to capture a sample of transmission fluid from my defective 6F35 transmission so I can have an analysis performed on it by Blackstone labs. I wanted to see if there were any other defective 6F35 owners who would be willing to do the same so we can compare results. Their analysis will pick up wear metals in the transmission fluid, and the one we're most interested in here is aluminum. Since the regulator valve and bore are bare naked aluminum, as they wear the ppm concentration of Aluminum in the fluid will go way above normal/expected. Blackstone keeps results from every test they run in their database, so they will be able to compare wear metal levels in our transmissions against what they normally see. Anyway, here's a link to their page about transmission fluid testing. It costs about $25 to get it done, or more if you add other testing. I may add the $24 particle count test if my oil looks discolored at all, like it also contains clutch material. Anyway, here's a link: http://www.blackston...ransmission.php UPDATE: I would like drive an effort to collect as many samples of 6F35 transmission fluid as possible. If you would like to participate, please follow these instructions: 1) Order a free sample kit from Blackstone Labs here: http://www.blackston...e-test-kits.php 2) Collect a sample, or if you do not have the equipment, ask your Ford dealer or mechanic to collect a sample the next time you have your vehicle in for routine service. 3) Replace the amount you removed for your sample with new ATF oil per Ford spec for your vehicle 4) Fill out the sample slip in the test kit, and be sure to write "ATTN: ANDY M / 6F35 STUDY" on it somewhere in red ink if possible, or highlight it - make it noticeable 5) Mail to Blackstone labs in the container provided in the test kit vis USPS. The cost of the test is $24 plus the cost of mailing the sample. The data will be invaluable in helping to establish a non-invasive way of knowing whether a particular transmission is going bad. For example, a wearing regulator valve/bore might result in higher aluminum detected in the oil. Burning out clutches could be detected in iron and copper. It's pretty amazing what can be learned from this analysis, but we need a decent amount of data to learn anything. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Props to Andy at Blackstone Labs for agreeing to work with us on this!

My 2010 Fusion has been making a 'grinding' noise when turning left or when accelerating from a complete stop. Turning right I never hear the noise. I have had the cv joint changed and there is no play in the wheel bearing. It gets worse in low gear when compared to drive with the same road speed. The noise goes away at high speed. On inspection I found the transmission fluid to be low, so flushed some and replaced but the noise is still there. Suspecting a problem with the differential. Any tips on diagnosis? My local garage have failed to diagnose anything feasible finding other rattles and trying to charge me for fixing.