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Hi all, This might not be the right spot to post, feel free to point me in the right direction if so. I have a question for you that has been bugging me for years now and I don't know what the issue is. Car is out of warranty so I dare not take it to a dealer at this point to spend hundreds and have them shrug their shoulders. When I park the car the battery can be extremely charged, only to have it completely drained the next time I get in the car. I have caught the car numerous times making this weird sound when I go back out shortly after, but it wasn't doing it when I left. Does anyone have any ideas what this sound is? https://imgur.com/a/xKXGMpD It seems to happen even more frequently lately, and it's starting to drive me nuts. Thanks!

Frustrated 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium...I loved my car for 25,000 miles...THEN...the battery drain issue began. The local Ford dealer has been very nice, loaning me car, etc...however, now on the 3rd trip to the dealer with same issue...they are frustrated as well with the type of help received from the technical support they seek from Ford. They have changed the battery. They have checked the Audio Control Module. They have changed the Gear Shift Module. Battery continues to drain and car is dead at unexpected times. I wanted to have it towed this last time while dead, but didn't know about the manual gear shift override, so we had to jump it to get it in neutral for the tow. NOW, the car is at dealer, and has yet to drain...they are stumped. I have checked with BBB and have a case number with Ford Customer Service. Moving close to the max days in service for a year and number of times without fix for same issue to be able to qualify for buy back program under lemon laws. It would be great if the "experts" the dealer reaches out to had some solutions, and they would call them instead of sending emails which don't allow them to have a one on one conversation while working on car. The blogs from other customers with the same issue have been a bit helpful, but also frustrating the FORD is not finding the main issues with this battery draining many people have...not just on fusion hybrids...for several years. I doubt I will be able to trust using this car again, even if they get it fixed...so frustrating. Is there anything else I can do to solve this issue?

Ok, been a while and this needs some background. I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient! This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord). Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car. Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts. Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A) So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power". Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA. With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine. My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display. WHEWWW! Several requests: Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)? Has anyone experienced this themselves? Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it? I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it. Thank you everyone for your patience. Grumps