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So I have a 2013 Ford fusion SE Ecoboost 1.6L. it has 45,000 miles on it (so no warranty) and my CEL came on. I had brought it to O'Reillys and I got the P144c code, but I had to bring it to a mechanic anyways to make sure for the diagnostic (i hated to pay $85 just to run a dumb computer). Surely enough, it was the same P144c code that I had read online, being that the EVAP purge valve needed to be changed. They told me that the purgevalve was sticking and I wanted to try to change it myself so that I wouldnt have to pay the $200 in labor. If anyone could help me out/know where this valve is, that would be great. I'm not even sure where this valve is since there isn't much info on the 2013 Fusions, only the older ones. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

I've just noticed that my 2014, 2.5 16v Ford Fusion Check Engine Light starts flashing before the engine has even been turned on. This happens when I don't turn the engine on for more than 10 seconds after turning the key. Once engine is on, the light goes off. Any reason why this could be happening? Any huge concerns about it?

I installed STEEDA CAI and tune on my 2012 Fusion SEL V6 3.0L FWD several months ago. The second time I started the car after loading the tune, the CEL went on. The DTC I got with the SCT X3 3000 tuner is P06B8. I tried returning to stock and reloading the tune, and also contacted SCT to try a recovery file. The code did not go away, and Gus told me that the code other people got after load the tune are different. I used the tuner to clear the code and it did not come back. Gus said it would not hurt the car as long as the code did not come back. I took the car to the dealer for service about a month ago, and the strategy was updated. I waited about 20 days before SCT updated their software to support my car's new strategy. I reinstalled the CAI and 91OCT no insert tune yesterday, and today the CEL went on again. I checked, and the code is the same as before. SCT mentioned that it may be a template problem. My question is whether it hurts the car. I noticed that the shifting was not so smooth.

First time posting on this forum. I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with 50,000 miles. The CEL just came on steady (No check filler cap warning) and I took it to the dealer who has been servicing the car for the last 2 years. They checked and found IDS code P0455. They said I needed 'to replace the 'Fill Pipe' as the fuel fill door was not sealing'. On top of the $133 diagnostic charge (plus $22 in materials) they want another $450 to replace the pipe. My questions are: Does this seem reasonable? How would they know the fill pipe needs replacing? Isn't that covered under the emissions warranty? I tried using the supplied filler nozzle to clear any debris from the filler cap but the CEL light did not go out. I suspect I will need to disconnect the battery to reset this light if in fact the problem is solved. Any downside to disconnecting the battery beside losing the radio presets? Thanks

Here's the deal: Last Friday, I took my '06 Fusion in to the Ford dealership to have spark plugs changed and transmission fluid changed ($500 total) (I'm at 92k miles). I got home after the service, only to check my transmission fluid to find that it was nearly dry. So the next day I took it back and demanded they fix the problem and they did. Yesterday, 5 days after the service, I had to quickly go home from work and get something. I got back in the car to leave the house, started to back out of the driveway and noticed the engine was bogging, RPMs would drop and the engine would be rough. I had no choice but to continue back to work. Today, Thursday, the problem continues, but it's mostly when the engine is strained- accelerating and/or going uphill. Under hard acceleration, power cuts in and out the worst. On my way to dinner tonight, after passing someone, I got the smell of catalytic converter, the CEL started flashing (hadn't been on before that point), and the engine felt very rough. I let off the gas, the light stopped flashing (and completely went off) and the engine felt fine after that. My question: it almost seems like an issue in the fuel system, but could spark plugs also be a possibility? I mean, if the dealership didn't put transmission fluid back in my car, I certainly don't trust the job they did on anything else. The CEL doesn't stay on, but I'm going to go to AutoZone tomorrow and see if they can retrieve a stored code. I'm not made of money (AKA: I'm broke) and bills are due soon, so I hope it isn't something expensive like a fuel pump (yes- that's expensive for me). Any pointers? Thanks in advance.

Hello, I'm just now joining the Ford/Fusion community for the first time, and have a question regarding my purchase of my first Blue Oval. I really like the car, was pleasantly surprised after the test drive - which lead me to take the plunge - and I hope to keep it for years. My question is in 2 parts: 1) I bought a used 2007 recently (120k mi, manual, 2.3L) with no warrantee, from a large Ford dealer, and 2 days after getting it home, the CEL came on, and now I need a $1,400 cat + downstream o2 sensor (code 0420; CEL came back after being wiped by AdvanceAuto and was verified by my own scan tool). I did not do a PPI with a separate mechanic (I know, I know, caveat emptor, but I thought Ford parts are cheap, if there is something I can't spot myself I'll take the $200 from the PPI and put it towards the repair), However, the stealership in question did check the car out for me before buying it, and gave me paperwork documenting a multi-point inspection, saying that everything was ok. In this paperwork there is a line that says "inspect catalytic converter" with a green check-mark next to it. Do you guys think I have any legal recourse here? Obviously I can't prove they knew about the problem, and it technically could have happened within the 20-50mi of me owning it (although this is a tiny chance). 2) Assuming I'm going to bite the bullet with the dealer fix, they said I could source my own parts to try and keep costs down. Are there any reliable places to get OEM-quality (with a CAT I would only want OEM-quality parts, so I don't go through this again in a couple years) Ford parts? Also, the dealer rep said there are actually 3 cats on the car, wtf? Should I assume they will all be going bad at some point soon, with about $1,000 repair for each one? To their credit, they agreed to "work with me" a bit on the price, however the repair would still run me over $1,000. Thanks, and any advice would be appreciated! P.S. I am using the BAFX ELM 327 OBD2 scan tool, which is AWESOME, and I recommend everyone out there get one. It's $25, syncs wirelessly to any smartphone through a free app, and has access to many CPU functions. I brought up the voltages from the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, and watched them fluctuate while the vehicle was on - which helped me verify that I thought the cat was bad before taking it to the stealership.