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Hey there, I'm having a couple issues with my car that could all be related, but I'm not sure, so I figured I'd pick the forum's brain to see if anyone else has had similar issues and possibly knows the cause. I have a 2010 Fusion SE, and I drive it maybe one per week, so the car is sitting in the garage quite a bit. The first time I had any issue the car had been sitting for two days. In that time I did access the car with my remote but did not start the engine. When I eventually did go to start my engine, the remote did not work. I used the key to open the door. When I put the key in the ignition and turned, the engine started, however I could not shift out of park. Most electronics didn't work either. The engine combustion seemed off too. The only electronics that seemed to work were the windshield wiper switch and the radio. The solution: I disconnected and then reconnected the battery and then the car worked fine. This situation happened again a couple months later, after the car was sitting for a couple days. This time I didn't even touch the car while it was sitting. Also, this time the engine wouldn't turn. Instead the car just emitted a clicking sound when I turned the ignition key. The solution: disconnect the battery and then jump the car. Since that time my car battery has died two times after sitting for several days. One time I checked the voltage and it read about 3.5V, however after it was fully charged it read 14V, so I don't think there are any bad cells. Either way I am going to get a new battery soon, but I don't believe the battery is necessarily the problem. One night I was outside and I noticed the car headlights and brake lights would briefly flash every few minutes. So I'm starting to think this is a computer problem. Has anyone had similar issues? Like I said, I am going to replace the battery soon. Also, I will probably try to see if the computer is throwing any error codes.

Ok, been a while and this needs some background. I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient! This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord). Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car. Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts. Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A) So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power". Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA. With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine. My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display. WHEWWW! Several requests: Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)? Has anyone experienced this themselves? Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it? I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it. Thank you everyone for your patience. Grumps