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Showing results for tags 'Fusion'.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fusion & this is what I'm experiencing. I removed the little trunk rectangular dome light to replace the factory bulb with a spare LED bulb that I had so it would be brighter. The domelight did arc some while removing it from part of the bulb connector touching the metal part of my car. The LED bulb stopped working. I put the factory bulb back in & it didn't light up. The 2 map lights in the front of my car only come on when I open the door or rotate the dimmer up. They wont turn on with the black push button. The rear map lights won't come on at all. I checked the #9 15 amp fuse & it was fine. Did I blow another fuse? Not sure what the issue is or if the LED bulbs aren't compatible with my car. I trie LED bulb in the front map light fixture. No such luck with them. Do I need a load resistor?
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Hello, last November I got into an accident and had to replace my left rear door, I had a shop replace the door with an OEM door I sourced from a wrecked vehicle. After it was fixed he informed me he could not get the window to roll down in the time he had it, I said I would deal with it myself. Please watch the video for more info, any help would be useful thanks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beMaDh_8...e=youtu.be -
Has anyone else experienced an issue with a "transmission not in park" warning being displayed? My wife's 2013 fusion has around 43,000 miles and she said that today while running errands, 4 different times when parking the car and turning it off, an error was displayed I think in the left display stating that her transmission was not in park. She said the car seemed to drive fine and always started back up, but she repeatedly saw that warning. -
I need some help with some issues with the blend door on my mom's 2012 Fusion. She has had it to a couple of mechanics and they have been unable to find the issue as its intermittent. The AC will run ice cold for a spell (1 to 5 minutes) then kick over to full heat. When this happens the blend door actuator is turning the blend door over to full hot (I had my finger on it when it happened). It doesn't appear that the door is slamming closed like the gears are stripped. It slowly moved as if operated by the actuator. Once this happens it will blow full hot until you restart the car. Here is what I have tried so far: Replaced blend door actuator. Calibrate the blend door actuator with a battery disconnect (several minutes). Calibrate the blend door actuator by removing fuse 15 for 30 seconds, turning on the ignition for 30 seconds then replacing the fuse and turning on the ignition for 30 seconds. Disconnecting the blend door actuator and manually turning the blend door to cold. Blew cold for at least 15 minutes. I needed to cool off its about 90 out. At this point I am convinced that its a blend door problem (see 4th bullet above) and the compressor and radiator fan never kick off. It appears that turning off recirculate/max AC, changing the cabin pressure by rolling the windows up/down and changing the temperature setting all trigger this behavior. The blend door is not easy to turn manually when the blower is on full blast, with the blower off its fairly easily turned by hand (no tools). It almost appears the calibration cycle might be causing it to stick in hot. Anyone have any thoughts on next steps?
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Recently bought a 2015 ford fusion. It's a 4 cylinder 2.5L. I'm not a mechanic by any means and not very car savvy. Anyways is it normal to have a slight knocking noise with the Fusion's? My car has low miles and never has been in an accident.
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Recently bought a 2015 ford fusion. It's a 4 cylinder 2.5L. I'm not a mechanic by any means and not very car savvy. Anyways is it normal to have a slight knocking noise with the Fusion's? My car has low miles and never has been in an accident.
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Hey i have a problem with my 2016 ford fusion everytime i start it it gives me the advanced trac system and stability and the hill start lights and warnings. I tried removing the negative battery terminal while the ignition is on and same problem still. please help me thanks -
Okay, I need help once again! I keep putting off fixing my subwoofers because I just give up, they're just sitting there in the car deck doing nothing. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SEL. I've ran all the proper wires from the radio and the power wire from the fuse box (which does have power, we checked) according to the wiring diagram. I did get a Ford navigation head unit last year that supports an amplifier. For my amplifier, I'm using a stock one from a 2009 Fusion (Audiophile). For subwoofers, I'm using Sony ones from a 2011 Fusion. And nothing is working for some reason, no sound at all! Do I need to get a Sony amplifier from a Fusion? I inserted the wiring diagram, if needed. I appreciate any help given!
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2006 Ford Fusion SEL V6 - 128,000 miles I got off work today and when heading home I had to pass someone, so when doing that I noticed when decelerating my RPM's would jump down really fast, IMG_5704.TRIM.MOV . So I pulled over and restarted my engine which I wasn't sure if that would help. And when accelerating I noticed when the vehicle shifted, it would shift fast and I could feel the shifts a little more than usual, IMG_5705.TRIM 2.MOV . I also notice when going around 40 mph the RPM's would be right under 1,000 RPM's so when I'd try to accelerate the vehicle would jump a little. ALSO, when I was stopped at a stoplight, I noticed the RPM's were around 600, which I think is much lower than usual. The car just doesn't feel like its usual self. Should I take it into the Ford dealer to maybe reset the computer for the transmission?
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I have a 2006 Fusion SEL and lately I've been having trouble using the remote start. Usually, when it does work, I hold down the button and the horn chirps twice and then starts right up. Now that it's winter, it just chirps once and doesn't do anything at all. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the car battery because the car battery is 6-7 years old.
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Cylinder 4 has spark and fuel. When I pull the coil pack out of cylinder 4 while running nothing happens but when I pull it out of 5 or 6 it will bog down a little bit. Checked the fuel injectors and they all tested out around 10.9 or 11 ohms.
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Hey everyone, I am new to this forum stuff but I figured I'd message you all and see what you know... My 2013 Ford Fusion 1.6L ecoboost is making a ticking/knocking noise at idle. You can really hear it while at a complete stop and in gear. In park you hear it as well but not as loud.. SAYING THAT, the noise is easily heard more inside of the vehicle than outside. I made a video and posted on YouTube for you all to see... any ideas??? Any help is appreciated. WATCH THE VIDEO!! -
Wanting to upgrade my fusion's power. I'm wondering how much power I can get out of it WITHOUT replacing the turbo. Catback, downpipe, tuner, etc,. What upgrades can/should I make to it and what supporting modifications will I need in order to handle the new power? Without replacing the turbo what kind of HP can I expect? -
I have an '09 3.0L v6 auto trans with 184k miles. I bought it seven years ago, CPO from a Ford dealer at 34K miles and it's the most reliable car I've ever owned. Can runs well, but just developed an acceleration hesitation: If I'm cruising, then step on the throttle, at 1700 to 2000 rpm, the engine hesitates. after that it's fine. It doesn't do it all the time. when I think the issue is gone, it shows up again. then it's hard to replicate the issue. The air filter is fresh and clean, and I recently cleaned the MAF sensor with the correct spray and replaced the PCV. It seemed to help a little the issue is still there. There is no Check Engine Light on and the car is consistently getting great gas mileage and pulls as strong as ever. What is this? My guess is it could this be an O2 sensor issue. Even if it's not, I'd love to change them. Is there a video or photo of the O2 sensors' locations? thanks
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Remote start climate control issues - auto mode
FTLFusionTitanium posted a topic in 2014 Ford Fusion
I have a 2014 Fusion Titanium with a remote start. I have it set to auto - under settings > remote start > Climate Control > Heater-A/C > auto. When I first bought the vehicle , that option was greyed out - after several attempts , the dealer replaced an FCIM and the setting was available. Regardless of the temperature, air conditioning is at a medium lukewarm output until I push the start button on the vehicle. When I took it to the dealer, they told me that I should be using the last settings option and remember to put the AC at 72 before I shut off the car. I escalated to the Service Manager , and even opened a case with Ford , and both indicating that this was how the functionality worked. Then this past weekend , I tried the same steps on a 2015 Escape Titanium , and the air conditioner was blasting after I started the car with the remote and before I pushed the start button. Has anyone else had this problem ? My thought is that it is a minor setting change or something. It is starting to get very warm here in Florida , I rely on this functionality during the daytime. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -
Good day folks! I have a question regarding my brothers Fusion. He just changed his tires and his alignment got refused as his right lower control arm is shot (i assume the inner bushing went to hell). Firstly, does anyone have a write up on how to do it? As I understand the procedure is different in 2013+ Fusions compared to the older platform shared with the Mazda6. Secondly, other than calling a dealer to be certain, there are two part numbers that according to part websites fit: GS7Z-3078-B and GS7Z-3078-A . Any difference between the two? Thank you for your help, Odi
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Hey all, I have a 07 fusion with digital fan speed control that would work when the wires were moved around down there. Shortly after it stopped working all together. I replaced my resistor, pigtail, and blower motor about 6 months ago after the same thing happened. This time around it seems to soon for the same problem. Any ideas on what else could be going wrong? I was reading other posts and thought I could have wired the pigtail in wrong. These pics are what burnt out.
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Hello everyone, new owner of a 2017 Fusion Sport. Looking for a good to community to share and exchange with.
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I have a 08' Ford Fusion and the compass only reads "err" no matter how many times I try to calibrate it. Fell funny driving around in circles. Then twice after starting my car, it calibrated on its own. But once I turn the car off then back on, it states "err" again. I also have an issue with my rear view mirror NOT auto-dimming. I've asked the dealership and they won't look at it without paying a service fee to tell me what is wrong. Has anyone had these issues with the compass and/or rear view mirror? -
My 2008 Fusion's parking break button has popped out. I can, if I play with it, put it back temporarily and make it work. Is there an easy fix? The spring is still intact. Thanks
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Hello, im new to this forum so please excuse my non-complete profile. Anyway, I just bought a used 2015 Ford Fusion SE with 31,000 miles. I have had no issues so far, but just today I put the key in the ignition turned it over and it didn't start right away. I let go for about three seconds and it started up after turning the key. It happened twice in one day, but every time I turn the car off and then start it back up it is fine in succession. I hope it's not the fuel pump or something costly. I just recently got the car on September 7th, at a certified Ford Dealer, and I'm concerned that there is something wrong already. Please someone end my madness!
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Hey everyone, I have a 2013 Ford Fusion SE Ecoboost, 1.6L - I bought the car from CarMax early April with 34,0XX miles on it. I've put on 3,100 miles on it in that time period and I had the wrench + check engine light come on. Here's the story below: So I was driving last night, heading to the gym. I was going about 35-40 MPH and all of a sudden I feel like I driving on a very light bumpy road. I disregarded it and kept driving then a few seconds later, here comes this yellow wrench light and the message "read owners manual". As all that came on I noticed the RPM's staggering between 1000 and 2000 and I could definitely tell it went into limp mode as I drifted into the gym parking lot. I park, turn the car off. Then turn it back on, and weirdly, the icon was gone. After I was done in the gym I started it back up and had no problems. Drove home fine. Fast forward about 23 hours and again, I'm leaving to go to the gym. So I get in my car, turn it on, and there's the wrench icon. I didn't want to risk anything so I slowly backed it out of my driveway so I could get my backup car (PT Cruiser, lol). When I get home to put the Fusion back in the drive way I noticed the Check Engine light pop up. Has anyone gone through this? The manual said it was the powertrain but what could've happened to it? I've only put 3000 miles on it since I got the Fusion in April of 17'! I have an extended warranty so I'm covered either way but I'm confused on why it's acting up! Thanks
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For sale : 500 OBO 2013 - 2016 Ford Fusion retro fit halo mustang style led headlight assembly. Fits all 13-16 fusion models. Left and right set. 2 halos per side and sequential turn signals. Brand new never used and never installed. Completely 100% plug and play install, all parts included... only thing you need is a set of d2s HID bulbs Bought new off eBay for 900+ I'm from Vancouver Canada but I'm willing to ship anywhere. Message me for info or questions or if you would like more pictures You can email me at bkovacs@statusautomation.com or reply here or dm me Thanks for looking!
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Does anyone know what octane of gas I should put into my new 2016 Ford Fusion Hybrid? In the past I have always put 89 into my cars (Honda and Mazda). Not sure if that was ever required but just something I did. Wanted to get feedback from everyone here on what their suggestions might be? Thanks Steve
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Hey guys, I'm new here (just joined), and I'm picking up a 2016 fusion titanium for $16k with 27k miles on it on Monday. It was a fleet vehicle (rental) and I'm making the dealer do a trans fluid change and oil change and coolant flush as part of the purchase. I'm already planning to get the car dipped with proline (world rally blue) and picking up CP-E intercooler here (will be tuned by torrie mcphail as he's my go to guy for anything not cobb). I'm probably going to do the gtx2976r (slightly bigger than my focus st's gtx2971r) due to the fact that it gives me more room on pump gas and spool is not a concern since it's auto and will hold boost through the shifts and the gtx2971r spooled very well on my focus st (3500 rpm 20 psi) so 3800 rpm is acceptable for me on an auto car. I'm not new to the 1st gen 2.0 EB motor, but I am new to the 6F35. I've done tons of research and determined it's probably not going to survive past 370 wtq as it has a 37% reduction in tq capacity compared to the 6F55 and the highest taurus sho I've seen is like 600 wtq. Looking in the parts catalog it appears the 2017 fusion both 2.0 and 2.7 v6 tt are using the 6F55. Rebuilding the 6F35 is probably not worth the money when you can have a 6F55 for $2,400. and probably installed for $3,200. So while I don't plan on doing trans anytime soon and will probably rag on it until it dies, when the upgrade time comes will the 2017 fusion 2.0 6F55 bolt right in? Does anyone know this? My other builds: Fiesta ST: Focus ST: 2016 Mustang GT: ================================================================ 2017 Fusion 2.0T/2.7 TT Trans Assembly and discounted parts link G3GZ-7000-B 6F55 http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=afGuDVF3uXy0vCy0IR4QZw%3d%3d&id=423059280&m=44&search=true&year=2017&make=Ford&model=Fusion Discounted link: https://www.fordlincolnpartsdepot.com/oem-parts/ford-automatic-transmission-asy-g3gz7000b
