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Does anyone happen to know if the 2010-2012 Ford Fusion gauge cluster is interchangeable with the 2006-2009 gauge cluster?

Ok, been a while and this needs some background. I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient! This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord). Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car. Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts. Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A) So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power". Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA. With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine. My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display. WHEWWW! Several requests: Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)? Has anyone experienced this themselves? Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it? I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it. Thank you everyone for your patience. Grumps