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Hey all, I recently purchased an 07 Mercury Milan Premier AWD (which to my knowledge is identical to the Fusion in terms of the powertrain). The car has about 110,000 miles and runs great bar a vibration that occurs between 25-35 mph. This vibration is generally more present when the car hasn't yet warmed up. After doing some driving, the vibration mostly subsides. It can be felt pretty strongly in the back of the drivers seat. My first thought was that this is the driveshaft. However, word around the street appears to be that when these do go, I should hear some sort of howl noise. My car remains silent though. Any thoughts on what this can be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Daniel P.S: Putting the car in neutral does not change anything. Also, the car recently began developing a bounce kind of sensation in the front right wheel that typically occurs after driving a bit. Its not pleasant at all and it seems to go away after slowing down a bit.

Add the title says I am trying to work out the three radiators at the front. A minor accident left me leaking and trying to find parts. The front most one is the auxiliary yea? And the little one on the driver side is the transmission cooler right?

Hi Fellow Fusion Fans! Feeling bummed as I am in day 4 of a cheap, tiny loaner car in my driveway to which I not-so-lovingly refer to as my Granny car. My beloved 2011 Fusion Sport, automatic, which I leased new and then purchased last year, with only 45,00 miles to it, began having issues about 4 weeks ago. Although I always let it warm up a few minutes in cold weather (a good 10 mins on first morning start), I noticed some slippage in shifting from 1st to 2nd. The engine would rev, but wouldn't shift unless I let way off gas. That made pulling out onto a busy street rather difficult. Around this same time, I began getting a quick double screech (like you would get from a belt) only on the first cold start in the morning. That was soon followed by a tapping noise, seeming to come from near bell housing. (My son is a certified mechanic, that's how I know!) The tapping was a fast 5 taps, drum roll, 5 taps, drum roll....that's the only way I can describe it! All fluids had been checked and were good and no leaks. If you put it in gear, the noise stopped. As it warmed up, the noise got quieter until it could not be heard. Because we have no lift to use and the transmission is still under warranty, my son advised I get it into Ford asap. He wondered if maybe it could be a cracked flexplate but said it's difficult to tell. So I drop it off at night at my local Ford dealership, sharing everything I just shared with you. I repeatedly advised they must listen for noise at first morning start up. Well I felt as if I was being ignored for two days as I had to keep calling them and they were either out to lunch or in a meeting. Sure. Whenever I did get them on the phone, they supposedly have heard no noise. Ok, I'm done. I want my car back to go elsewhere. I arrive a rather unhappy customer to retrieve my car when the service mgr. got involved. We go outside to start it and low & behold! There's the noise! Loud as could be! Hmmmmmm........Didn't hear for 2 days?? They convinced me to let them keep it one more night and put their 'best' tech on it first thing in the morning. I reluctantly left in the crappy loaner as I was concerned about damaging the transmission if I drove mine. The manager called the next morning saying they THINK it's a cracked flexplate and will need to drop the transmission. No worries though. It's all under warranty. No worries?? Really? How does a flexplate just crack?? Do I have company out there somewhere? Has anyone heard of this at 45,000 miles?? I have always taken excellent care of my car. To the point where some might call me obsessed! I now have a fairly large car loan and feel it may never be the same car.

My 2013 Ford Fusion S with a 6F35 transmission had recently exhibited symptoms of jerky transmission shifts around the 90,000 mile mark. It eventually got to the point that the transmission would not engage in 1st or 2nd gear and instead, after waiting for approximately 7 seconds, would loudly engage into overdrive mode. From my reading of information on AllDataDIY, this is a safety feature that defaults into certain parameters. This of course generates an orange check engine light in the form of a water pump icon. This is the stored DTC of P0751 (and most likely P2700 as well per the service manual). When the transmission tries to engage the first gear governed by shift solenoid A, it essentially revs the engine without effect on the transmission. It will then go back to overdrive. After a few failed attempts, it will illuminate the orange wrench and stay in safety mode from that point forward, until the car restarts. After changing the transmission fluid with Mercon LV directly from the dealership on three (3) separate occasions, the problem persists. The other gear of reverse is fine and it smoothly engages. If anything, I have preserved the functionality of the transmission with the passive drain and fill procedures along with slowly driving in RPM ranges of 1500 to 2000. On a side note, I determined that the fill procedure involving the oil leveling plug on the side of the transmission case is absolutely necessary. When I originally drained the fluid and measured, I filled back the same amount. When the transmission shuddered upon reverse being engaged, I added the extra quarter of a quart of ATF. This fixed the problem but then something strange happened next. As I was driving down the road, I would hear these burping sounds or popping noises that originally sounded like problems with the CV joints. When I added an additional quarter of a quart of Mercon LV ATF to continue to test the amount of fluid needed without opening that oil leveling plug, it got worse. In fact, it started making these bubbling noises while in park so I decided to burp the system with a new drain and fill. When I filled the fluid again with 4.25 quarts and started the car, shifting the gears and staying in park, I opened the oil leveling plug hole with a 5mm hex key. (Of note was the levelness of the car, verified with a simple level purchased at Walmart for a few dollars.) Nothing came out so I closed the port, turned off the car, filled another .25 quarts and repeated the procedure. Again, nothing came out but there was now fluid on the threads. The popping noises went away and the shifting has been fine in the current safety mode. Now that I want to replace the Solenoid A, I am having difficulty removing the 20-pin connector on the main control cover, underneath the air box. Has anyone ever dealt with this connector before?

Would you do your first tranny fluid change at 100K? Or is it too far gone? Background, I have a 2009 Fusion 2.3L, 100K miles. Never have transmission fluid changed, because the maintenance schedule says you only need to change it at 150K. The car drives well though, never have shifting issues Lately I discovered Scotty Kilmer on Youtube, and his videos got me nervous. "if you have not changed transmission fluid every 60K, your transmission is on borrowed time". 2009 fusion has transmission fluid dipstick, so it's easy to check fluid color. It's dark and certainly not pink, but no burnt smell. Then all of a sudden I feel the urge to take my car to a transmission shop and have fluid changed, also occasionally my shifter will feel stiff going from "R" to "Park", better to have the shop to take a look at that, too. But the shop said no, they don't change fluid for cars with 100K it's the first time do it. The guy said the same thing as Scotty Kilmer, if I change my fluid now, the transmission will overheat and slip easily and it can do more harm than good. Just drive until it breaks down. A year from now, two years from now, a week from now, who knows. I am confused and anxious. I don't want to give up this car, I want to put another 100K mile to it. But what do I do now? change fluid now? Wait till 150K (if I can reach 150K at all)?

I have a 2007 Fusion, admittedly a 14 year old car. Now ocassionally, when I shift into reverse, it will 'buck' twice, and then it's fine. At other times, it smoothly shifts. What causes the random bucking? Thanks, in advance.

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE FWD with the 2.0L turbocharged ecoboost engine. The transmission seems to stutter in third gear under heavy acceleration, but doesn’t seem to happen with normal acceleration. I have noticed that it only becomes an issue in third gear and has never happened in first or second gear. It usually occurs somewhere around 60 mph or about halfway through third gear, but i think the revs and current gear are more important to the issue than the speed. Yesterday, I tried leaving my foot glued to the floor while the issue occurred because I was curious what would happen since I usually just let off the gas and accelerate calmly and to my surprise, it happened until the engine issue light came on and flashed for about 20 seconds before going away and turning off completely. The light did not return, but the issue has not been resolved and I can only assume it would happen again if I tried, but I don’t want to damage the car. I think I noticed a slight cut in power after the engine light started blinking, but i could be wrong. Though, whatever cut in power I may have felt went away after the light stopped blinking. My car has been doing this for a couple months, but I try to avoid causing the issue to happen as to not damage the car. I must also mention that the car has not always done this in the two years of ownership. This has only been an issue in the past couple months and I change my oil and oil filter regularly as well as having no other issues with the car except for this. If anyone knows what is wrong or has a theory as to why my car is doing this, I would greatly appreciate a reply. Thank you. :) IMG_3809.MP4

Hi all, I checked to see if anyone else has posted about this already but didn't find anything so I apologize of this has already been discussed. My 2019 FFH has 36K miles on it and I wanted to check/change the transmission fluid since it already has so many miles on it in such a short period of time. We bought it used with 34K and I don't know the service history of the vehicle. Has anyone changed the transmission fluid or have a guide on how to do it? The draining is pretty self explanatory and I know what fluid/quantity to use but I'm mostly concerned about finding the fillport. I looked around and couldn't find it. Thanks ahead of time.

I hav.e an 1.5L i4 engine with 6-speed transmission. On a cold start when placing the transmission in to drive, there is a hard "clunk". This doesn't occur again after driving for a while. When the car sits for a few hours or more it re-occurs. I had engine mounts replaced with little improvement. Now I'm suspecting the transmission. I'm told this is a sealed transmission so can't check fluid level. However, someone else suggested there are plugs on the unit for drain, fill, and level check. Does anyone have suggestions on what's causing the symptom? If it is the trans, is there a way to check fluid level or pursue other optionss.

I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SE I4 with 163,000 miles. Two weeks ago I took it to the dealership for some suspension work I knew it needed (new struts and sway bars). Right as I was getting out of the car to drop it off, the wrench/transmission light came on, so I asked the service rep to have that diagnosed first before proceeding with the suspension work. When the dealership called me back, they told me they pulled multiple transmission codes from the car. They were vague regarding the exact problem and told me diagnosis and repair would be a very time-consuming and expensive process and would likely require the rebuilding of my entire transmission. They then told me this process would likely not be worth it given the age and value of my car. When I tried to pin them down on the exact problem, the most they could say was that the car was making odd noises when stopped during their test drive (“odd noises” may not have been their exact terminology, but it amounted to some noise that was subtle enough I hadn’t noticed it myself). When I asked them what the consequences of not repairing the transmission would be, they said the engine might die when the car was stopped. They said this problem may not occur for weeks or even months, but was basically inevitable at this point unless the transmission was rebuilt. I declined all further repairs and took my car home. Not only did the dealership dissuade me from further transmission diagnosis/repair, but they also didn't even attempt to sell me on a new/used car, which seemed odd to me. I've been driving this car daily for the past 2 weeks and haven't noticed anything different. The transmission light hasn't come on again. At this point I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to sink any more money into the Fusion if the transmission is going to give out soon, but if the transmission is not near death then I'd rather not buy a new car right now and would proceed with the repairs to the suspension. I called a local shop and asked about getting a second opinion, but they told me if the transmission light wasn't currently on, there would be no way for them to pull the codes and proceed with diagnostics. Their advice was to just keep driving it and bring it in if the light comes on again. What do you think?

Currently own a 2014 Ford Fusion 2.0L. I have had it into Ford twice for transmission problems, shifting hard going from 1-2 and 2-3. The first time was about a year ago, end result was my transmission being rebuilt. The most resent time I had a new transmission installed all together. The issue has never gone away. Have an appointment for Monday to have it looked at, new tranny came with a warranty. Unsure what else to do, I am so tired of this. Any advice would be appropriated.

Hi everyone I am new to the forum. If this is in the wrong section I apologize I’m not sure how all this works. So so here’s what I’m dealing with. I have a 2011 Ford Fusion sel 4cyl. I just purchased the car at a mechanic special and wondering if anyone has dealt with this issue. The car WONT move AT ALL not even in neutral. So at first I thought maybe the shifter issue and maybe the transmission was in gear but while running if you select neautral you can rev it all the way to redline but if it’s in gear it will only go to about 3k rpm but WONT move .....also no matter what you select even neautral you CANT NOT ever push the car to get it to roll across the driveway. It’s not the brakes or anything with the wheels off the ground they will spin freely. Idk if this makes a difference or not but the battery is completely dead also

A week ago my car started making this strange loud clattering noise (like a fan blade hitting something) under the hood. I had my coworker listen to it and he said it didn't sound like it was the engine but he couldn't pinpoint where it was actually coming from under the hood or from the underside of the vehicle. His last words to me was "hope it's not the transmission." Way back when, the car had 30K miles it shifted hard into reverse from park. It was a transmission solenoid issue and it was fixed under warranty of course. Last February, my car started shifting hard into reverse again just a couple of times. I called my local dealership and they said if it was the same problem it would not be covered under any warranty or grandfathered as an issue that was fixed and would not be covered by the dealer. I immediately thought to myself time its time to buy an extended warranty if I run into another transmission issue. Luckily that problem never came back. Now, it's June and I've got this loud noise as stated before and I took it to my local Ford dealership and they said it's definitely a cracked flexplate. The sound is actually captured on YouTube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3mUQG1oGfo and is exactly the noise my car is making. Both local Ford dealerships that I'm close to in Detroit, Michigan are back logged 2 weeks from even tearing down my transmission and fixing the problem. I'm taking my car from the Ford dealer to a local and reputable transmission place that will work with my extended warranty company to fix my problem. I'll report back AFTER I get my car back to let everyone know how I feel then. Oh, after it's fixed I'm putting it up for sale by owner as I've seen others in this forum say the problem will appear again if the bolts are torqued correctly in less than 10K miles. Some questions I have for the forum? 1) Where can I find other Ford owners having this same issue? 2) Is there a government site (NHTSA) that tracks issues like this, and where is that site? 3) Anyone else have this same issue with 2014 SE's like me?

My 2016 Ford Fusion with 99,900k miles on it currently has a tranny issue. While at a red light (attempting to accelerate when turned green) my car made a clunking noise and would not shift into drive. A yellow wrench symbol showed up and I had to get it towed to the dealership. I figured later that once you turn the car off and back on it will drive - but only for a short while. The dealership advised that Gear 6 is “broken” in simple terms. So when the car automatically shifts to that gear- I can’t move it. I have to get the transmission replaced, but, I’m wondering if I can use the select shift in order to keep the car from automatically shifting into Gear 6 ?? I found this YouTube video and thought I’d might give it a shot. What do you fellow Ford Owners think? I just need to drive it somewhere to park it. I’ve towed it 3 times in two weeks ?. Sidenote: I’m beyond irritated with the Ford Motor Company right now. They refuse to take responsibility for their crappie transmissions.

My 2016 Ford Fusion with 99,900k miles on it currently has a tranny issue. While at a red light(attempting to accelerate when turned green) my car made a clunking noise and would not shiftinto drive. A yellow wrench symbol showed up and I had to get it towed to the dealership. I figured later that once you turn the car off and back on it will drive - but only for a short while. The dealership advised that Gear 6 is “broken” in simple terms. So when the car automatically shiftsto that gear- I can’t move it. I have to get the transmission replaced, but, I’m wondering if I can use the select shift in order to keep the car from automatically shifting into Gear 6 ?? I found this YouTubevideoand thought I’d might give it a shot. What do you fellow Ford Owners think? I just need to drive it somewhere to park it. I’ve towed it 3 times in two weeks ?. Sidenote: I’m beyond irritatedwith the Ford Motor Company right now. They refuse to take responsibility for their crappie transmissions.

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium with 153K miles. I started to hear a clunking noise from the front of the car when applying tension to the drive shaft. I noticed it more while sitting in traffic and driving at slow speeds. When I let off the gas or tap the gas pedal, I hear a clunking noise like metal to metal. I thought it might be loose drive shaft. I took it to the dealership and they told me it was the transmission. To fix it they would have to take the transmission apart and find out exactly what was wrong. They recommended a complete transmission replacement at the cost of $7,500. Needless to say, I am not going to spend that kind of money to fix a car with 153K miles. Anyone else have this issue? Anyone resolve it? I am worried it is going to totally break and leave me stranded but I can't afford $7,500 for a new transmission. Thoughts? Thank you. Kevin

Hey all, I'm looking for some info about how to flush the transmission fluid, and what type of fluid to put in and how much. Car is a 2010 Fusion SE 4 cylinder automatic. As far as methods, Ive heard of people only dropping the transmission pan, or syphoning fluid out of the dipstick and getting about 3 quarts. I'd prefer not to do this method as it seems like its not the best way to change the fluid as you leave a good 3-4 quarts of old fluid in the system. I've done a flush on the old car, a 2001 Mazda 626 v6 auto. I tapped into the transmission fluid line, cut it apart and ran an extended hose into a bucket full of fresh fluid for the intake line, and ran the output line to an empty bucket. Started the car and let it idle till the fluid coming out the output line looked fresh and clean , shut it down and put the lines back together and topped the fluid off through the dipstick. Can anyone tell me if this is a reasonable approach for the fusion? Is there a transmission filter, and if so where is it and where can I find a replacement? How about fluid? What type and how many quarts? I read about 7 quarts but not sure if thats for the 4 or 6 cyl. Thanks for any help in advance!

Hey guys and gals! Need some advice on removing my auto trans cooler lines, purchased the quick disconnect tools from harbor freight, autozone, and rented the kit from autozone. Nothing is fitting and releasing the quick disconnect. Anyone have any idea where to purchase the exact tool or tips on removing them? Please let me know!

I have a 2012 Ford Fusion Sport with FWD. I had 75k and want to change the fluid. How do I know which transmission I have? I believe there are 2 types of trans on the fusion.

Hello All, I have a 2015 ford fusion and got stranded a couple weeks ago. Once I got the car to my mechanic, he pulled a PO-733-00 code which indicated direct clutches burnt up or a piston or drum problem. My car has 188,000 miles on it and blue books for $5,500. My mechanic stated the new trans would cost me $6,200. I opted to not replace the trans and had the car towed back to my home. Yesterday on a lark I went out and started the car and drove it. It drove/shifted fine but there was a loud whining noise coming from the front of the car. I only drove about 1/4 of a mile and went back home. My question is: was the problem/code misdiagnosed? Is there a simple fix other than a $6k trans replacement?

At what point in 2009 did Ford change the transmissions in the Ford Fusion and is there a way for me to find out? Thanks

Has anyone else experienced an issue with a "transmission not in park" warning being displayed? My wife's 2013 fusion has around 43,000 miles and she said that today while running errands, 4 different times when parking the car and turning it off, an error was displayed I think in the left display stating that her transmission was not in park. She said the car seemed to drive fine and always started back up, but she repeatedly saw that warning.

First off, I've tried searching multiple fusion threads but I havn't come across any similar threads with my same specific issues. So i'm hoping i can get some ideas on a diagnosis. I've taken the car into the dealer before on the issue, they blamed the worn out tires and sent me on my way (I've replace those now with zero change on the issue). Here's the quick explanation: The faster I go, the more I hear a hum, vibration, and now more recent a hum/vibration/grinding sound coming from the front engine bay of the car. I've been trying to diagnose it for awhile now (i'm fairly car savy) but this one stumps me. Here are a couple points that might help in diagnosing the issue: The noise is directly related to the speed of the car and the input on the gas peddle. When above 45MPH I start to hear the hum/grind of the noise above the regular road noise and it is progressively more noticeable as the speed increases. Between 80-85 MPH the hum/grind noise hits its peak and sounds like it resonates with the resonating point of the car. Its as bad as a high revving 4 banger with an exaust leak. At all speeds I can press and unpress the gas peddle to momentarily make the hum/grind noise to go away but it will then return after half a seconds time. If I leave the peddle press or unpressed(decelerating in the process) the hum/grind noise is constant. Forcing the car to change gears has no effect on the pitch or sound of the hum/grind noise. "Only the speed and gas peddle inputs change to pitch and momentarily make the hum/grind turn off for a moment" Things I believe I've ruled out: Out of balance tires or rims, breaks or rotors. Driver side front wheel bearing (replaced), I don't think its the passenger front either (No change in noise by harsh steering adjustments) Things I'm worried about: Drive train? Half Axles? Transmission? Engine mounts or linkages? Intake or exhaust issues? Turbo Issue? (I still have great performance tho) Any thoughts? Those are some potentially BIG and EXPENSIVE repairs that would be above my DIY car repair level. So i've been reluctant to bring my car in for diagnosis but its getting worse and now sound more like a vibration/hum with grinding as opposed to more a hum/vibration like it was 5k miles ago. Thanks, Brady Car: 80K miles 2014 Fusion 2.0 EB

2006 Ford Fusion SEL V6 - 128,000 miles I got off work today and when heading home I had to pass someone, so when doing that I noticed when decelerating my RPM's would jump down really fast, IMG_5704.TRIM.MOV . So I pulled over and restarted my engine which I wasn't sure if that would help. And when accelerating I noticed when the vehicle shifted, it would shift fast and I could feel the shifts a little more than usual, IMG_5705.TRIM 2.MOV . I also notice when going around 40 mph the RPM's would be right under 1,000 RPM's so when I'd try to accelerate the vehicle would jump a little. ALSO, when I was stopped at a stoplight, I noticed the RPM's were around 600, which I think is much lower than usual. The car just doesn't feel like its usual self. Should I take it into the Ford dealer to maybe reset the computer for the transmission?

I'll try to be brief as possible: I recently had my clutch replaced. Shortly after replacement, i was shifting to 5th and it felt 'spongy' (for lack of a better word). The feeling came and went, but i never had any issues shifting into gear. Today, i shifted from 4th to 5th and nothing, the car acted like it wasn't in gear and the shifter flopped back to center. It went back into 4th and i was able to continue on (thankfully i was close to home). Now the selector will randomly go into 1st, and 5th or not. I was finally able to identify the cable (linkage?) is bending when its fully extended for 1st/5th gear right where it comes out of the support bracket and the rubber boot starts. I can feel a metal collar or such under the rubber boot sliding back and forth, so when it fully extends for 1st/5th gear, it's far enough away from the support bracket that the cable underneath has no support and flexes, thus not providing enough rigidity to get the transmission into gear. I can manually shift the gears with my hand and i don't feel any binding. Can anybody tell me if something broke and the whole cable needs replaced or can it be adjusted to fix? I've seen mixed comments on cable replacement (take out the whole dash or not). Haynes manual talks about draining A/C and heater coil like the whole dash would need to come out. Is that true for a 2006 or could i do it over the weekend? 2006 Ford Fusion - manual transmission (obviously). PS - the car has 236K miles, so i'm sure the mechanic will say wear/tear, but it sure is coincidental that it happened right after being serviced. If it's broke, could they have bent/damaged it while removing the transmission? Thanks in advance for any advice.