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Hey all, i have a 2008 Fusion SE w/ the 2.3l that I bought used from a private party. The car works well enough and in an effort to baseline all the fluids I had the transmission flushed at the local Ford dealer on 12/20. There were NO issues with the transmission prior to the flush at all. It shifted just fine and never skipped a beat. Prior to the flush we put 4,000 miles on this car w/o issue. The only reasons I had it flushed was the color of the fluid was darker than I'd like and its history is unknown to me, but did NOT smell burnt at all. We have now put 371 miles on this car since the flush and tonight I checked the fluid and it was EMPTY, as in nothing showing up on the dipstick. I drove the car around the neighborhood to get it up to temp prior to checking, ran it through all the gears and then checked it. Nothing. I even got out a paper towel to wipe the dipstick to see if there was even a drop on it. DRY. What would my recourse be with the dealer? I have had nothing but great experiences with this dealer in all my past dealings. I don't want the moon, but I also don't want problems down the road that may have occurred because of this. The last time I drove it there was some snappy-ness to the 1-2 upshift that wasn't there before. The dealer is going to have the service manager call me in the morning. How should I handle this? I park on dirt and have not noticed any stains or smells or smoke. I have not gotten up under it, but I image the whole underside could be coated with trans fluid which would be the least of my concerns. Am I hosed or do I have a reasonable claim? If it gets re-filled do we think it will hold up for years to come?

Hey all, i have a 2008 Fusion SE w/ the 2.3l that I bought used from a private party. The car works well enough and in an effort to baseline all the fluids I had the transmission flushed at the local Ford dealer on 12/20. There were NO issues with the transmission prior to the flush at all. It shifted just fine and never skipped a beat. Prior to the flush we put 4,000 miles on this car w/o issue. The only reasons I had it flushed was the color of the fluid was darker than I'd like and its history is unknown to me, but did NOT smell burnt at all. We have now put 371 miles on this car since the flush and tonight I checked the fluid and it was EMPTY, as in nothing showing up on the dipstick. I drove the car around the neighborhood to get it up to temp prior to checking, ran it through all the gears and then checked it. Nothing. I even got out a paper towel to wipe the dipstick to see if there was even a drop on it. DRY. What would my recourse be with the dealer? I have had nothing but great experiences with this dealer in all my past dealings. I don't want the moon, but I also don't want problems down the road that may have occurred because of this. The last time I drove it there was some snappy-ness to the 1-2 upshift that wasn't there before. The dealer is going to have the service manager call me in the morning. How should I handle this? I park on dirt and have not noticed any stains or smells or smoke. I have not gotten up under it, but I image the whole underside could be coated with trans fluid which would be the least of my concerns. Am I hosed or do I have a reasonable claim? If it gets re-filled do we think it will hold up for years to come?

When making an accelerating right-hand turn from a stop or near stop, there is a repetitive clicking noise that seems to be coming from the front right. The noise will also occur when turning left, but not as prominent as when turning right. The noise is not there when making right turns while maintaining speed or minimal speed variations. The clicking stops when proceeding straight again. Any ideas what part of the suspension would be causing this? I don't believe it to be rack/pinion or transmission related. But on the subject of transmission, in colder weather, the car "clunks" from first to second gear... with 125K, I surely hope the transmission is not going bad. Another mechanic mentioned a transmission solenoid that may be defective. Does this sound accurate?

I have a 2010 ford fusion on 2.5 L with a 6-speed manual transmission. I recently had my clutch changed then when I was driving my transmission mount bracket broke and the stud that bolts it onto the transmission broke off is it possible to fix and if so where can I find the stud.

So I had an odd occurance with my 2013 Fusion Titanium EcoBoost. After getting an oil change, when you park the car and turn it off, a warning on the dash showed "Transmission Not In Park" Also, the indicator "P" did not light up like it should. Every other indicator light did light up ie. R-N-D-S... Additionally, the driver seat did not slide all the way back like it should when the car is turned off. The performance of the car was not affected and the dash warning did turn off after quite a while so your battery wouldn't go dead. The dealer thought there was a bad sensor in the shifter which I am sure would not have been cheap since they recommended changing out the whole shifter module. I decided to keep driving the car before the dealer recommended repair since my time frame did not allow for my car to be in for repair during this time and they were going to have to order the part. I went home and disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes in hopes of resetting the ECM. When I reconnected the battery, the same symptoms occurred. After a few hours of running errands, I parked in my garage, immediately noticing the "P" indicator lit up. I then turned the car off and my seat slid all the way back like it should! Now, obviously, I did not have a mechanical failure. It seems like a software glitch occured. My main question is, does this car have a way of self diagnosis and fixing software issues? Or does the car have a way of communicating with FORD when there is an issue and FORD can download a software fix or reset your system? Or, am I just lucky this issue fixed itself? Any knowledge would be really helpful since I am the type that needs to understand why things happen and know how to fix them. Thanks! Rick

I am still trying to confirm the pattern, but it seems that I get the Powertrain "Wrench" warning after driving on cruise control for a while in my 2012 Fusion. I also have some jerky shifting when I leave the highway and drive on surface streets for a while, but seems fine the next day. I have about 88K miles and I had the Throttle Body replaced per the recall about 3K ago, as I had the same issue with cruise control and the warning light occurring and codes for transmission over temp. Anyone else have this problem?

My car just hit 50k miles so I decided to swap it out this last weekend using the less common cooler line drain method. This is pretty easy to do at least on this specific Fusion, so I figured if anyone else was looking at how to do it, I would post my process. Although a lot of people prefer OEM, for my new fluid, I'm using AMSOil's Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF. I was reading online and the reviews are very good, with most people mentioning that it highly improves their shift smoothness which I was interested in. After the change I can confirm that the transmission does shift a little smoother which is welcome. My car in question has about 50k hard city miles, so following carfax's 'Severe' conditions guide, I decided this would be the interval I'll change it at. Plus, considering that the AWF21 is a 'sealed' designed with no pan and no access to the filter, it sets my mind at ease to do it this soon too. This guide is specifically designated towards Fusion's, or possibly other Ford's, with the Aisin AWF21 transmission which requires fluid that follows the JWS 3309 specification. Just make sure you get the correct fluid if you're doing this on a car with a different transmission. While looking for the cooler lines for the trans, I discovered that my car has a block heater installed, which I could have utilized a couple times this winter. So the more you know. As mentioned, I am going to be using the less common method of letting the trans drain itself via a disconnected cooler line. The line that seems to work best is located directly below the air box on the drivers side of the vehicle. This is the cooler send line and is about the best option for this process. To capture our old fluid, I used a section of 1/2" clear tubing that you can pickup at almost any hardware store. Just make sure that when you're attaching it, you CLAMP IT SECURELY! I originally had a standard band-style hose clamp that was just barely too big. I thought it would work, but it blew the line off after starting the vehicle, and I made a bit of a mess everywhere. After finishing my change, I took it straight to the car wash to spray down the engine bay, since ATF is flammable. I ran the line directly down to the ground and out to a 5-gallon bucket. This method of fluid change means that the transmission will drain itself almost entirely, instead of leaving residual fluids inside of the valve body and torque converter. This allows for a more complete fluid change instead of just draining it. The torque converter itself can hold around a quart of fluid which wouldn't get drained in a simple plug drain and refill. After ensuring the drain line is in place, just start the car and let the transmission pump do the work. Obviously the thought of running it dry sounds bad, but as long as you don't put the vehicle into gear, or run it for too long after empty, there is no risk of damage. Some vehicles don't engage the pump unless the transmission in is gear, but the fusion doesn't require this. If this is the case, typically putting it in neutral will engage the pump. After draining the transmission via the pump, I still opened the drain bolt and got about another half a quart that was sitting below the sump. My transmission was a little low on fluid to begin with, but overall I was able to get about 5 quarts out of it. This isn't the entire 7.4 quarts that the system holds, but it's as much as you'll be able to get without doing a full flush, which manufacturers have expressed can be dangerous. The fluid honestly doesn't look that bad, the camera makes it look darker, but it was still darker than the stock fluid so I still was content changing it. After finishing up, I decided to use the injector-style of hose clamp that I used for my drain hose since it's much easier to work with, and it'll make it easier for the next time that I need to change the fluid. The OEM clamp is the 'elastic' style of clamp of which the teeth were completely downwards and it was a huge pain to get off. I kind of mangled it in the process which is why I wasn't confident on reusing it. I didn't even bother to take it off of the hose, maybe the next time around when I change it, I'll have a little more motivation and yank it off. Refilling is pretty simple, I usually start with the 'replace what you take' method and put in around 5 quarts. That was still a little low so I added about another 1/4 quart, drove around the block a couple times, and checked and added until I got to the 'cool' level since the fluid was cold. Just repeat the process of add, check, add, check, until you get to the proper level. Make sure you're not making the rookie mistake of checking it with the engine off, transmission fluid levels are checked with the engine on, and preferably while warm. Unless you have a fill tube, which most DIY'ers don't, you can just add the fluid with a long funnel via the dipstick tube. It's a little slow, but works just the same. For the next couple days I'll keep checking it and top it off if it needs is, also making sure the line I removed isn't leaking. Thanks for reading!

This past week when pulling into my driveway I shifted my car into park and I could feel something give. I could not shift out of park after so I removed console to do it manually as shift interlock override was not working. I can manually shift but the dash indicator is obviously misaligned and it will never go into park or register on the dash as going into park (Only seems to recognize park when I kill the engine in neutral with handbrake on and then shift to park; thus releasing the key). Other than that I can get it to go into all other gears(R, N, D, M) with some "finagling". I took it into the dealer as this problem is above me and they just looked at it this morning (11/21/16) and they just called with a quote. They said the linkage was broken and I needed a new shifter assembly. At least that's what I think they told me over the phone. They stated they would have to pull the dash to install the new part and the price would be $1663 with labor. I realize labor is expensive but does it really take them that long to pull the dash; is this a reasonable price? I always trusted the dealer I used when I lived in Oklahoma but this now local dealer(Texas) told me in the past my wife's vehicle needed brakes but I took it to an excellent local mechanic(who is a good friend of my dad's) and they told me they were fine. So I don't know whether to trust this quote as it seems a little ridiculous? For now I'm gonna pass on fixing it as it still drives fine, I just have to manually release the lever to shift out of park which isn't a huge deal for know other than not having the console pieces in place Any and all help is appreciated. Info on car: 2011 Fusion SE Purchased Certified Pre-Owned in 2013 Has less than 40,000 miles. Filed complaint with NHTSA

6F35 – HARSH TRANSMISSION ENGAGEMENT DURING ACTIVE START/STOP EVENT AND DTC P0C27 Publication Date: September 1, 2016 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge ISSUE: Some 2014-2016 Fusion and 2015-2016 Edge vehicles equipped with a 6F35 transmission and active start/stop feature may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with a harsh transmission engagement after an active stop/start event. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0C27 will be stored in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory. This condition may be caused by air entering the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the concern. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Using an Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) or equivalent scan tool retrieve DTCs. Is DTC P0C27 present in the PCM memory? a. Yes – proceed to Step 2. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. 2. Check the transmission build date. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. Was the transmission built on or before 2/26/2016? a. Yes – proceed to Step 3. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 3. Remove the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 4. Remove and discard the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. (Figure 1) Figure 1 5. Install a new transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube which contains a check ball. 6. Reinstall the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 7. Clear DTCs. PART NUMBER PART NAME DG9Z-7A136-B Gasket – Pump W715931-S437 Bolts – Pump (3 Req) DG9Z-7890-G Pick Up Tube XT-10-QLVC Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 160111A 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge 6F35 Transmission: Retrieve DTCs And Replace The Transmission Fluid Auxiliary Pump Supply Tube (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.6 Hrs. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 7890 42

2.5L – DRIVE TO REVERSE DELAYED ENGAGEMENT/SHUDDER Publication Date: September 21, 2016 FORD: 2016 Escape, Fusion ISSUE: Some 2016 Fusion and Escape vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine may experience a delayed engagement/shudder during a drive to reverse shift. This condition occurs when the throttle is applied during reverse engagement. ACTION: Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 102.02 or higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to obtain the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. NOTE: ADVISE THE CUSTOMER THAT THIS VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ADAPTIVE TRANSMISSION SHIFT STRATEGY WHICH ALLOWS THE VEHICLE’S COMPUTER TO LEARN THE TRANSMISSION’S UNIQUE PARAMETERS AND IMPROVE SHIFT QUALITY. WHEN THE ADAPTIVE STRATEGY IS RESET, THE COMPUTER WILL BEGIN A RE-LEARNING PROCESS. THIS RE-LEARNING PROCESS MAY RESULT IN FIRMER THAN NORMAL UPSHIFTS AND DOWNSHIFTS FOR SEVERAL DAYS. OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 160125A 2016 Fusion 2.5L: Reprogram The PCM (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.4 Hr. 160125A 2016 Escape 2.5L: Reprogram The PCM (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.4 Hr. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE RECAL 04 ________________________________________ Module Reprogramming & Initialization Software necessary to program electronic modules to the latest calibration level, perform module initialization (PATS), and set Programmable Parameters on Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. Ford Module Programming (FMP) is a software application that allows subscribers to program electronic modules on Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. It can be used for: • Reprogramming emission-related (OBDII) modules on some vehicles manufactured in 1995 and all vehicles manufactured from 1996 to the present • Reprogramming or reconfiguring non-emission-related modules on many vehicles (UBP and MS-CAN not supported) In addition, module initialization (PATS) functions such as Keycode Erase/Reprogram and PCM Parameter Reset can be done using this application. J2534 Device using Ford Module Programming (FMP) can Reprogram and Configure most Modules. Latest Calibration Information Module Build Data (As-Built) Use VIN to obtain As-Built data www.motorcraftservice.com

2014-2016 Multiple Vehicles – 6F35 – Harsh Reverse And Harsh/Delayed 3rd And 5th Up/Down Shifts – Without DTCs – Built On 1-Jan-2014 And Through 31-Dec-2015 Multiple 2014-2016 vehicles equipped with 6F35 transmission and built on 1-Jan-2014 and through 31-Dec-2015 may exhibit harsh reverse engagement and harsh/delayed 3rd and 5th gear up/down shifts with no DTCs present. This may be due to a mechanically binding shift solenoid B (SSB). Verify harsh reverse and 3rd and 5th gear shift events are present. Using IDS, identify the band number of SSB for use when ordering parts. Remove the main control. Disassemble and thoroughly clean the valve body and solenoid body to remove any contaminants. Replace SSB, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM) section 307-01. Using IDS, clear transmission adaptive tables.

While shifting through gears 1st - 3rd there is no issues. When the vehicle attempts to engage the 4th gear, the engine revs up a bit, but it is not excessive revving, feels like computer rev matching. During this time, there is no slippage, no grinding, no other notable or noticeable problems. The gear simply does not engage. After a few moments (3-5 seconds) it feels as though the computer recognizes a fault, and attempts to engage the last known working gear... Which unfortunately is often 2nd gear as it seems the computer will skip 3rd gear depending on acceleration applied. This causes a jolt, but feels normal for an automatic getting dropped into a lower gear while going a high speed for that gear. After some looking around, I read somewhere that it's possible this was a problem with one of the solenoids. I was curious if anyone else has had this problem, and what they did for a fix. I broke the vehicle down where needed to get into the solenoid valve body area. All I am waiting on is to replace them, but I didn't want to make a purchase if someone else was to say "WAIT, I DID THIS AND IT WORKED". Call me a rookie, I deserve it -- but when I went to drain the transmission fluid It was nasty, and smelled terrible. Could this cause an otherwise operable solenoid to temporarily malfunction? ​Here is the eBay page showing the solenoids I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/132018268320?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

2006 Fusion with 110,000 miles and the transmission went out. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Does anyone know the cheapest way to get it replaced? Is there any action i can take for it going out so early? I have heard many others with this problem

Hey guys, so I am a relatively new Fusion owner, I have only had mine for a year, bought used with 55k miles on it. I previously owned a fleet of lincoln towncars, so I am generally familiar with ford vehicles and their nuances. That said, I've never had an issue like what I'm having now, and I am not a mechanic, I simply used to own a towncar business so I've experienced a wide variety of problems, but never this. Pre-cursor: I recently had an oil change, and when done, the mechanic told me that I had a minor leak that appeared to be somewhere near the oilpan. I don't know the first thing about the underside of any vehicle and what seals are which, etc, and the mechanic was very vague but told me it was nothing to seriously worry about. He just said to keep an eye on the oil level, and if there's a serious drop, to have it checked immediately. That said, I've been checking the oil every day, and never had a noticeable change, until today. I drive professionally, and had driven about 300 miles today without issue. I pulled up to a stop light, and when green, began to turn left into a parking lot when the car stalled out. It would not turn over after it stalled out. I was able to push the car into the parking lot, and popped the hood. First, I checked the oil because of the previously stated warning about the leak, and that was my first concern. The oil was drastically low, despite at the beginning of my day having no noticeable change from the day before. So, that's indicative that the oil leak has become dramatically escalated, and that whatever seal (i think) was damaged has now experienced complete failure. So my first course of action was to purchase some oil, and see if that would do the trick to top it off and get the car going again so I could nurse it home. The car is is spec'd to take SAE 5W-20 oil, but it's Sunday at 8pm, all my local auto stores were closed, and all I could get was gas station 5W-30, which I read can invalidate a warranty (doesn't have one) but shouldn't pose any major problems to the engine for limited use. I planned to get an oil change tomorrow if this corrected the issue, but it did not. The engine turned over and started without a hitch, and the car appeared normal, it reversed out of the parking spot normally, but upon being but into Drive, sputtered and died almost immediately. I pushed the car back into the parking spot, placed the car back in park, and started the vehicle again. And again, it was able to shift into R and N with no issue, but even being shifted into D without moving, still caused the car to sputter and die. Each time the car sputters out, all of the electronic systems stay on without issue, no dimming lights, no accessory power loss, etc. When I put oil into the car, I only put 2 quarts in, because there was still a significant portion of oil left on the stick. I'm wondering if more was required, or if 2 quarts should have done the trick, just to get the car going. Also, I have never run into an issue like this before, I've never had a vehicle that had a significant loss of oil like this, so I don't know what to expect. The general consensus on pages that are non-specific to ford vehicles seem to run the gamut of issues that it could be, so I'm hoping that someone on here can help me narrow this down a little, and possibly help me locate a cause to the problem prior to having it serviced. I'm on a limited budget, so any insight is definitely appreciated before turning a mechanic loose on it. Also, if any of you have any information on a reliable mechanic in the Philadelphia or surrounding area, that would help greatly, I'm located in Folcroft and the car is currently parked in Upper Darby. Thanks in advance for any insight you may have. Please let me know if there are any additional details I can provide. Currently, I do not have pictures of the vehicle, and won't be able to provide any until tomorrow. Cheers.

I have a 2006 ford fusion that is leaking from the pedal that is pushed by the slave cylinder. What is the name of the pedal and where can I get a replacement sleeve? My third gear went out a year ago, other than that the car runs fine. I noticed something was wrong when I took a turn and felt the clutch engage at a different height. When I drive it, the RPM's will climb but I won't move that much. If anyone could help then I'd really appreciate it. Thank you very much

Hey guys have a 07 fusion 2.3L with a manual transmission at 170k miles. So this started about a week ago, when I push my clutch in to shift it starts to make this squealing sound. When my foot is off the clutch there is no sound. I haven't had any problems shifting since it has happened. I checked my clutch fluid and its full and looks clean. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this or does anyone know what it might be? Tyler

My 2011 fusion sport has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission is giving me issues. Some days it drives fine but most days it will shift really harsh out of first gear and the check engine light and wrench light will come on and the transmission will be locked in third gear. Sometimes it will shift fine up to sixth gear smooth as ever and then say I go up a hill and the transmission doesn't have to downshift it'll jolt a little and the wrench light will come on. Then when I come to a stop it drops harshly into third gear then it will be stuck in third until the car is turned off. But if you turn it back on it'll shift hard out of first and the light comes on and it goes straight to third. If it sits overnight I can drive it in the morning and it'll shift fine for my 5 miles to work but by lunch time I get a few miles out of town and the light comes back on. I don't know what to do at this point. The fluid has been changed twice and the problem remains. Any help or advice you guys can give me is greatly appreciated.

I'm currently at around 85,000 miles and every once in a while my check engine light and wrench light will come on and it throws the code P0976. I had the code read at O'reillies and I was told it was transmission shift solenoid 2. This has happened once a few months ago and now twice in 2 weeks. It's fine in the morning. The first two times it happened I was going up a slight hill that didn't require a downshift but the lights came on and I felt a little jolt. When I slowed down it would come down to third but wouldn't up or downshift. Select shift mode doesn't do anything when this happens. The fluid has never been changed as far as I know but when I check it it's full. I've had the car since 50,000 miles. I'm probably going to change the fluid and hope that helps. I've recently put a new battery in because the last one was 3 years old and went bad. Other than this I've never had any issues with the car. I've searched everywhere for someone else with this problem but I haven't found anything. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

I got my transmission swapped a few weeks ago after experiencing hard shifts when shifting from park to reverse and also my transmission would not shift past 3rd gear, leaving me only able to go up to 35mph. The to wrench light was on and the mechanic said the shift selenoid was stuck on. After having the transmission swapped out the same codes came back and the car started acting the same way (hard shift into reverse and not shifting past third gear). My mechanic cleared the codes and it ran perfect for about 150 miles, then the same problem came back. We have cleared the codes again since. We are going to try to reflash the pcm to see what happens. I think it is safe to say it is something else than the transmission causing this problem. My question to you all is have you heard of the TCM storing codes and making the car act the same way after a repair? is reflashing the TCM a good route? From what I have read it could be an output speed sensor or may be the alternator interfering with sensor signals. Any help would be much appreciated! I can get the codes if need be.

Just bought a used 2010 Ford Fusion SE with 171k miles. When we test drove it it ran smooth. When I checked the tranny stick it was dry. No leaks though. Dealer added tranny fluid when we purchased it. Since we bought it, we have noticed shifting from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd feels a little hard or kicks...like a manual. Is this normal? I have read a few topics here about it and most say it is normal. I had my mechanic check it our before we bought it and said everything looks good. When I recently checked the tranny stick (after dealer added fluid) I noticed the fluid is dark pink but does not smell burnt. Is that normal too? Thinking on getting a tranny flush and new fluid to see if that helps. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hello everyone, I'm new here and have a question about an engine swap for my 06 fusion and figured this would be the best place to ask! I recently had a catastrophic failure with my 2.3L engine and I'm searching for the best options for replacement. Since I'm already having to replace it I would like to put in an engine that will be more powerful. So my question is, would a 2.0 liter turbo engine from the from the Focus ST be compatible with my current Mazda G5M manual transmission? Or would there be any better options like the 2.3L turbo with a RWD or AWD conversion, or the 3.0L six cylinder? I would really appreciate feedback or ideas anyone has! Thanks, Adam

Let me start by saying this. I've never used a forum. I'm not a mechanic - although I am significantly more mechanically inclined than most people. I drive a 2006 Ford Fusion SE - 2.3L 4cyl - 5 sp manual trans 3 weeks ago i noticed that my car was having difficulty shifting into gears 2 and 5. The next day, I started hemorrhaging gear oil from the starter opening of my bell housing. Because I'm broke I decided that rather than let my car sit in the driveway for a couple months while I scraped up the money to repair the trans, I would try fixing it myself. I got it apart, dropped the trans, and upon taking the trans apart I discovered that a control arm snapped, ricocheted into the aluminum clutch housing and blew a hole clean through (thus allowing gear oil to escape). I welded the hole, ordered the part online, replaced it, and rebuilt the trans to what I thought was correct. Note: I took all the gears off as a unit. They remained on their respective columns at all times. By the time I was done the trans could cleanly, smoothly shift into all five gears and reverse. Because of this I was fairly confident in the repair and I put everything back into the car. NOW! It's all back together, system is properly bled... I start the car and in neutral --- it drives backwards. In reverse it drives backwards. In gears 1-5 it bogs down and kills the car. Please help - what did I do wrong? How would you suggest I fix it? I'm far enough into this project that i'd really like to finish it myself and not take it to a shop... even if that means I have to drop the trans again.

Hi all, Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me out. I have an '07, 2.3, automatic. I just got it back from having a used tranny put in it, and apparently, the adventure isn't over. The main issue is, when driving at a steady 40 MPH on flat terrain, the tranny continually wafts back and forth between 4th and 5th gear. Otherwise shifting appears to be okay. More possibly related new issues: The check engine light intermittently lights up, I haven't pulled a code yet. The idle fluctuates at a stop, and the speedometer bounces all over the place while in motion. Thanks again for your input!

I have a 2007 Fusion and the trans went in it. I am looking to see if I should rebuild the one I have, just get a new one, or if I can actually swap it for the 6 speed. Any ideas, help, or suggestions?

I just purchased a used 2013 Fusion SE 1.6L yesterday. It has 33k miles but was certified pre-owned. This morning, on my first commute into work with it, I tried to shift into Sport mode and then use the button selectors to manually shift the vehicle. To my surprise, the orange indicator didn't move from 'D' to 'S'. It simply went blank. I couldn't notice a perceptible difference in the way the vehicle was shifting so I don't believe Sport mode ever got engaged. More importantly, I was not able to manually change gears with the button selectors. I upgraded my Sync / MyFord Touch system last night so I was hoping it was just some weird side effect of that, but the problem resurfaced once this evening after an errand run. It doesn't seem to be happening with any type of regularity. I was able to use the feature multiple times on my way home and during a few other short jaunts this evening. I've done a lot of searches and read quite a bit about transmission issues with the Fusions. It seems like most were centered on the '10 - '12 model years. I do notice some of the hard-shifts and revving between 2nd and 3rd gear and even in Sport manual mode, the shift from 2 to 3 has a fair delay. I'm planning on calling my dealer tomorrow morning to ask about this issue but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced it before. It sounds like flashing some of the controller software is the most common remedy for these types of issues but that the solution doesn't always last. One day into ownership, I'm just hoping this isn't a sign of trouble to come. Thanks in advance, Jason