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Showing results for tags 'a/c'.
Found 21 results
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The air conditioning blows hot sometimes, usually accompanied by the outside temperature reading skyrocketing. The actual outside temp at the time of this pic was 68 F. I've already tried changing the outside ambient air temperature sensor and it has not fixed it. I'm at a loss. Any insight will be greatly appreciated!
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My daughter’s 2012 Ford Fusion stopped blowing cold air. We took it to a shop and they said it needs a new compressor to condenser hose and the only available part is from Ford and the cost is $525 for just the hose. The entire repair job is $1056.00 I am new in Atlanta so I don’t know if this is a typical situation or if this is a good price for the repair. I’d appreciate any advice on this. Thanks!
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2008 Ford Fusion my heater and a/c controls are not working right am going to scrap yard to pull one however mine is analog and I like the digital is it at all possible to swap them
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I have a 2012 Fusion SEL 2.5 with dual automatic climate control. I live in Phoenix and it's blazing hot here (115+). The car sits in my garage and is ~95-100 degrees during the day. The AC blows ice cold (40 deg) when first started and stays cold as long as I'm driving, regardless of exterior temperature. When I drive it somewhere and leave it sitting in the parking lot for ~20 minutes in 110+ degree heat, the AC will only blow cool air (~60 deg) after being restarted. It fluctuates a small amount during the drive home, but only slightly (50-60 degrees). I have checked the pressures after 1) sitting overnight (~100 degree garage temp), 2) running just after starting (AC working properly), and 3) when it was not cooling properly when restarting after driving. Here are the reading I see. 1) Cold, engine off - L:110 / H:110 (~100 deg ambient) 2) After idling in my garage for 5 min, AC blowing 40 deg - L:30 / H:240 3) After restarting and driving home, AC blowing 60 deg - L:30 / H:300 I also connected Forscan (I''m a noob with this) and tried to look at some AC parameters that I thought would be of value. The ACP_PRESS (high pressure?) correlates with the High side readings my gauges gave me each time I could check them. While driving and the temp blowing 60 degrees, was reading 300-350. I couldn't find a Low pressure reading. The Evap Temp was consistently 3 degrees cooler than my vent thermometer was reading, so my vent temp tracks the evap temp very well making it easy to monitor while driving. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem, but I found one reference (that I can no longer find) that said the expansion valve is at fault. I've been trying to find a way to conclusively diagnose that, but am coming up empty. Any suggestions for me to try or additional data needed to diagnose? Thanks for any assistance!
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I am having issues with my AC. Went out (blew hot air) intermittently for a while, then started always blowing hot air. I had my mechanic check the compressor (running correctly at about 250/40) and the freon (had a minor leak that was fixed). After searching online and the forum, we decided it was probably the evap temp sensor. My mechanic was unable to change it, so a friend and I changed it. The air blew cold that night after changing it, but then started blowing hot again the next day. I then searched the forum some more and found the issues with the blend door actuator. Somewhere (I was researching for a LONG time) I saw a statement to turn the air knob all the way to hot, and click by click turn it to cold. This works temporarily. I am searching of any advice on if it does sound like it might be the blend door actuator. If so, if anyone possibly knows which actual part I would purchase. The parts on the Ford website are listed as the blend door motor cam, blend door motor level, blend door motor temperature mode actuator and blend door motor air inlet (recirculation). Or, perhaps someone has an idea of something else it could be! Any help would be greatly appreciated as at this time, I simply can't afford to take it to the dealership. Thanks in advance!!!
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I have a 2012 fusion with automatic temp control The a/c will not turn on. All the lights come on the fan works the blend doors work. If you jump across the relay the compressor kicks in and blows cold air. My Ford tech buddy ran some tests for me on his lunch break and said the modules are not talking to each other thus the hvac is not telling the processor to engage the compressor. Has anyone experienced this problem?
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Hi, recently I bought a used 2013 Ford Fusion. And Air conditioner is not working (sometimes it starts freezing, but it not happen very often). The only issue the car has is the front temperature sensor is missing (part number is "AU5Z-12A647-B"). In the screen the temperature is -39C or 10C. So is it can cause the A/C problem? Is there any other sensor I should check? And if the problem is from temperature sensor why sometimes A/C starts work? So can I surely buy the air conditioner sensor? thanks
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I just replaced the Evap temp sensor on my Uncle's Fusion and I'm still getting warm air from the system. After several google and youtube searches everything that came up to correct this issue was to replace the sensor. What a joy it was to pull the center console and dash and replace the sensor to only find out that it didn't work. It shows to have a good charge so I am looking into the blend door actuator and I haven't a clue where to look for it's location or if any of you have any pro tips to enlighten old school shade tree mechanics. Thanks for any help and direction! James Frustrated in Texas
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For some reason whenever I have my windows down the a/c will turn on on it’s own, and will not stay off no matter how many times I try to turn it off. Made a video showcasing this bizarreness below:
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Hey all, I have a 07 fusion with digital fan speed control that would work when the wires were moved around down there. Shortly after it stopped working all together. I replaced my resistor, pigtail, and blower motor about 6 months ago after the same thing happened. This time around it seems to soon for the same problem. Any ideas on what else could be going wrong? I was reading other posts and thought I could have wired the pigtail in wrong. These pics are what burnt out.
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So I have a 2011 Ford Fusion SE that has been treating me well (Outside of a coolant system and power steering failure...maybe it hasn't been treating me well after all.) but now is having air conditioning issues. A few months back the air conditioning suddenly started blowing hot air but slowly worked its way back to cold air and worked fine for a few more weeks until it died completely. Interestingly, the air conditioning does work at night and early in the morning when it's not quite blazingly hot outside. I thought about buying an inexpensive can of air conditioning recharge to see if it could alleviate the problem, but even the cheap cans of those can be pricey, so I thought I'd query you guys first. The small amount of research I've done leads me to believe it could be the temperature sensor gone bad - but if that's the case would the system work at all? I assumed the sensor going bad would essentially kill the air conditioning overall. I don't believe it's the compressor since again it does work depending on the outside temperature. Any thoughts on the matter? Anything I should try myself before bringing it in for service and spending a paycheck or two on getting it fixed? Thanks guys/gals. -
Hey from Texas, this is my first post here. I have searched the forums and found a few topics referencing Evap Temp Sensor, but one of the posts said it would be open or closed, not intermittent as is my case. I apologize ahead of time for the long post! The Problem: 2012 Fusion SE - 4cyl 2.5l Two days ago, the A/C temperature inside the car started cycling from cool/cold to ambient (probably 5-10 seconds / 1-2 minutes respectively). The day before there were zero issues. I figured that perhaps the refrigerant may be low, so i went and bought a can plus a low-side gauge. I looked up the chart and with an ambient temp of 80F, it said I should be within 40 - 50 psi on the low side, compressor on. When I started the car to check the system pressure, it took around 5-8 minutes for the compressor clutch to engage! When it did, it started cycling again, sometimes shorter intervals, sometimes longer, The initial reading when the compressor engaged, would drop to around 29-30psi then kick-out. So at this point I began adding refrigerant. This took some time considering the cycling of the compressor. I got it up to around 33-34 with the compressor engaged, then the compressor kicked out and stayed out for a good 5-8 minutes. I decided to shut off the car and restart this in about an hour (dinner time). After waiting the hour, I turned on the car, A/C off, and connected the gauge. The system pressure read 105-110 with the A/C off on the low side. When turned the controls on to run the A/C, it took another 5-8 minutes for the compressor to engage as before?!? Still cycling, i was able to get some more refrigerant in to where it is now 37-38 psi on the low side. As before, the compressor kicked out and I waited about 5 minutes and gave up for the night. In all, I put around 1lb (15-16oz) of refrigerant/oil in. I am really confused about the length of time the initial engaging of the compressor clutch. as well as it getting to a point where it stays off, happening both times. I apologize again for the long post, but I wanted to include all pertinent information that may strike someones memory! Thank you for any advice you may have.
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Hello everyone, this is my first post on here because I am having an issue diagnosing an ac problem on my girls car. 2011 fusion se 4 cyl manual climate controls. The a/c was intermittent for awhile working only sometimes. Not the only time it will work is if I adjust the temperature knob to hot and then back to cold, It then will only work for about 15 seconds before turning to hot again. I have checked the freon and the system is charged. The compressor clutch is also engaging. I have seen this problem in some topics on here but no one has given an answer as to what the problem was. I am assuming by process of elimination that either the blend door actuator or the control module has gone bad... Any one have any ideas or experience with this
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Hey all, I have a 2010 Fusion SEL that has been having some A/C issues. (fyi its full of freon) A while back my fusion stopped blowing. After posting here and doing some inspecting, i noticed that the blower motor had gone as well as the resistor. I then switched out the blower motor and the resistor and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to about two weeks ago, and my a/c again had cut off and i was upset. After looking at the resistor i noticed that the connector/pigtail had melted. I bought a new resistor and a new pigtail for it and spliced it in. I noticed that it wasnt blowing as cold as it should. It seemed like room temperature air. Sometimes it seems to blow really cold and sometimes not at all. It blows strong, but just not as cold as i want. I dont know why sometimes it works well and sometimes it doesnt. Usually does not though. Anyway, about a day ago I noticed that the passenger side was blowing really hot air. I am not sure why. That is where I am at now. I took a look under the glove box but nothing seems to be bad. I wonder if maybe this has something to do with my splicing job or what. I am going to maybe try to resplice it but its 100 plus here in Texas and i am way too fair skinned to be out there in direct sunlight and this heat. Maybe try in a few hours. Hopefully someone has some insight and advice. Anything is appreciated.
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I'm having an intermittent problem with my A/C in my 2014 Fusion Hybrid. It goes off an on for no reason. Then one day after driving the car for about 45 minutes, then making a one hour stop, the A/C would not work at all, and the front passenger window would also not go down. I drove it for a while, and the A/C would go off and on. I took it to the dealer, but there were no error codes, and they couldn't get the car to repeat the issue. Has anybody else had this problem?
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I have a 2015 with 3200 miles that I leased 3 months ago. Last week, the outside temp read -40 (I'm in Florida. No way.) and the A/C unit was turned off. (I'm in Florida. It's never off.) After playing with the touch screen and manual controls I realized it I turned it to max it would blow cold air. If I adjusted the temp or turned it to auto, it blew hot air. I called the dealership and took it in the next day. Of course by then the problem could not be duplicated and I took my car home the following day. Two days ago the A/C again turned itself off when I started the car. This time it didn't work at all: no air, hot or cold, on any setting or temperature. I drove straight to the dealership where they verified it was in fact not working. By the time they got it back to the tech, it was working again. They kept it overnight, and now, basically, I have been told by the dealership and customer service that there is nothing they can do until they can duplicate the issue. I get that they can't fix it when they don't know what's broken, but what am I supposed to do? Luckily I am a teacher and am on summer break, but my time and mileage is important too. Any suggestions on what I should do next? I already plan on taking it BACK in once it does it again and insisting that they look at it and not turn the car off, but I'm pretty frustrated Thoughts?
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Hey all, So last year i had an issue with my ac not working. After some digging around and posts on this forum, i noticed the pins on my resistor had melted and needed to be changed. I changed the resistor (black box with the heatsink) and the blower motor as it had gone as well. It was fine for the summer and didn't really use it for the winter (was working in Canada and did not need the ac) I have since relocated to Texas, and last week the ac would cut off and on. I would remedy this by sticking my hand under there and wiggling the cables. This seemed to do the trick till about a few days ago. My wiggle trick stopped working and so i stuck my head under there to see what has going on. I was shocked to see that the resistor pigtail/connector had totally melted. I then removed the blower motor, the resistor the cut the burned pigtail off. The blower motor seemed fine and had no issues so i reinstalled that. I ordered a new connector cable and spliced it in and then ordered a new resistor and installed that. After about an hour of work in the hot Texas sun, i got it set up and the fan turned on and seemed to be blowing air This is the second day after install and i notice it does not get that cold as it did before. i have not done any inspecting yet but it doesn't get as cold as it used to. I notice it gets colder when you hit the max a/c button, but still not to the desired temperature. When you leave it on a/c with the fan high, it doesn't really get that warm. It blows cool air. I am not sure what could be the issue. My install seems to be holding up without any issue but that is all i have looked at. Any advise is greatly appreciated. If there is any other information needed, let me know and i will provide. Thanks, Raf
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Hello, My name is mike and I'm kinda new to this site and tbh don't know a whole lot about maintenance on vehicles but today when I started my car I noticed that my a/c was on full blast but yet air was barely trickling out of the vents and then i switched it off of max a/c and it started blowing air out like normal but then i shut it off and got back in it later and had the same issue only when I went to fix it the same way I did it last time it didn't work and ever since then it does the same thing just barely blows air out and solutions or ideas would be greatly appreciated -
My 2012 SE 2.5 at 36k is in the shop now. The blend door will cycle uncommanded to full hot with the temperature set in the full cold position. I am able to get the blend door to cycle back to cold by adjusting the temperature to full hot and then adjusting back to full cold one click at a time. The door will maintain position for about a minute and then cycle uncommanded back to full hot. The problem has been intermittent but seems to occur when the car has been left in the sun and the interior temps are high. Does not matter how the vent output is adjusted or if the A/C is engaged. I would be interested in any insight or thoughts. Has this happened to anyone?
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I was driving home from work today and decided to roll up the windows and turn on the A/C. Upon hitting the A/C button, the engine stopped! While I was driving down the road! I stopped the car, put it in park and restarted the engine and all was fine. I then pulled into a gas station and put it in park. I then pressed the A/C button again and the engine immediately stopped again! Anyone ever hear of such a thing?
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New to this, so I didn't know how to post to diff topics.. I have an 06 SE 4cy. Bought it with 14k miles, now have a little over 145k. I've never had anything "major" happen with the car so I've been very happy with it so far. 1. A/C turns on randomly by itself. It started about 2 yrs ago. Driving down the road, the a/c just starts blowing for a few seconds then cutt off. I've gotten it looked at by 5 different mechanics. They can find nothing wrong (I've already replaced the sensor just incase). 2. 145k miles, motor has always made a ticking noise. But low and behold, can't find anything wrong. 3. My transmission feels like it's "slamming" at times. It doesn't matter if it's going into 2nd or 3rd gear. Does anyone else have these issues? Please help!!!
