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I'm looking to install an aftermarket head unit in my 2012 SE without navigation. All of the dash kits I've found include the slot for the info screen. My new head unit will already display that information, so it is just a redundancy. Has anyone found a dash kit that abandons the stock info screen? Attached is a photo of what I've found available, as well as a stock bezel for the Navigation option which is what I'm hoping to find except with the regular non-nav control cutouts. I'd also be willing to do a swap for the stock Nav bezel. I know it's pretty involved and is not plug and play, I just haven't found information on everything that would actually need to be swapped. If I could find that info, I do have the skills to complete it.

Hello anyone who can help me..I got a remote start for my 2014 Ford Fusion as a Christmas present because I have no garage and wanted to heat my car up and melt ice and snow without going out in the weather so my wonderful parents bought all of us kids and my son (their grandson) a remote starter and arranged the installations at Best Buy for each of us! Well I just got mine done finally and even my key fob for the door locks works to start my car now if I hit lock and unlock back and forth. Anyway... long story short I start my car from in the house with the heater turned on to defrost the windows... go out 15 minutes later and the heat isn't on, windows are still covered with ice, but when I put the key in the ignition the heat comes on with wonderful heat !! I checked the book and if you HAVE a factory remote start you can go into settings and change this to have the heat come on before the key is inserted I believe but what am I supposed to do if it's an aftermarket remote start and I have no option for that in my settings ?? Computers on cars have ruined even the simplest functions now days. I want the heat on in my car WHEN I START IT !! Not when I get in with the key and I'm supposed to have a defrosted car already and be going !! HELP please guys. There has to be a way you can fix this so my heat comes on when the car starts even without the factory remote start !!!

Hey everyone, So I got some questions about my 2014 Fusion SE. I really want to put in an aftermarket radio in my car but I'm having an extreme amount of trouble actually finding a large touchscreen radio and a faceplate, along with wiring, to fit into my car. I currently have the small non-touch screen (4x2in or something like that) radio with the all the buttons underneath the radio. Is there any aftermarket radios I could fit into my car? I would love some guidance from anyone who knows more than me (currently a 20 year old just trying to customize my car a little). Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. ~ Bryson

Anyone know of any aftermarket Remote Start options for 2017 Ford Fusion? Viper looks like a good choice.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience in installing Oracle Halo's in their factory headlights and/or fog lights. My question is geared towards the wiring aspect. Can anyone walk me through how to wire these into my factory harnesses. I am trying to avoid having to use a secondary switch to operate them. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

So I told myself over and over again I wouldn't like the small dumb screen and to only get the mft. Unfortunately there was an unbeatable deal with the fusion I got and it didn't have the mft. It's driving me crazy. The forums have stuff about this everywhere. Let's make it simple let's post everything we know on this one post. To make it simple for everyone. Someone on this forum has surely put an aftermarket radio in. Let's get some links and some pics! I'm ready to get rid of the ugly stock radio

I was thinking of removing the lower grille and replacing it with more of the newer style fusion grilles. Is there a way to get it off without having to take the whole front bumper off? Also what do you all think of this style on the 2012 model? Oh and my fusion is tuxedo black with the monochrome black upper grille.

Last night I had a set of Focal PS 165 component speakers installed in my front doors, powered by an JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier. The Head Unit is stock as well as the rear doors. Everything sounds great, my only issue is that when I turn off the ignition the amplifier turns off, thus cutting signal to my front speakers, only the rear speakers continue to play until the door is opened. This isn't such a big deal, but I'm wondering if anybody knows a better wire to connect the remote wire to so that the amp doesn't turn off until I open the doors like the head unit does. For reference I have a 2011 Fusion SEL with Sync and 6-speaker audio (not Sony). Thanks in advance!

Hey guys! I just bought a new 2014 Ford Fusion SE. It's an amazing car! I went to the dealer asking about remote start and wanting it on a fusion. He said it was just a $100 add on through one of there suppliers. So I got it and now he said it's going to be $550 with installation. Any way did anyone receive an aftermarket remote start and is it worth it?

Hey guys! I just bought a new 2014 Ford Fusion SE. It's an amazing car! I went to the dealer asking about remote start and wanting it on a fusion. He said it was just a $100 add on through one of there suppliers. So I got it and now he said it's going to be $550 with installation. Any way did anyone receive an aftermarket remote start and is it worth it?

Hi all, first post.. I have just purchased a 2011 Fusion Sport AWD and doing some research on remote starter options. I know i want a Bidirectional remote start and would prefer to stay with an OEM but i'm interested in any feedback on the availability of options out there. I plan to buy and install whatever system i go with.. fwiw, i held an ASE master auto tech cert before i let it expire years ago, so i have no doubt I can do the install, especially with the install thread posted by thefoeyouknow lastly any leads on the start system for a good price are appreciated. Thanks in advance

Just threw some HIDs in, while i was at it i gave my car a little personal touch :P what do you guys think?

Hello everyone, I am needing some help ASAP! I have a 2010 Fusion sport with the manufacturer Sony system. I have a double din deck I am half way through installing and OF COURSE IT DOESN'T WORK! I have purchased: -PAC C2R FRD1 radio interface module We got the deck running but there a no sound. My buddy installs car audio and it even has him stumped. He thinks we might need a relay to supply enough power to the factory amp to make it work. Any one have any input? We noticed that the wiring diagram with the module didn't neasicarly match up perfectly... Somedays I hate owning a ford

Last night I installed a new aftermarket head unit in my 2011 Fusion SEL. I thought I might as well take pictures of the process and post them here. Hopefully it helps somebody else out who needs to do something similar. 1. Open the door to the storage box at the top of the console. Remove the rubber mat that's in there, it's secured to the front of the box opening (nearest you) just mess with it and it will make sense. 2. Remove the two bolts that hold it in place. 3. Then Slide the box towards you, the vents sometimes come with the box and sometimes stack back connected to the venting. If you need to adjust or fix the fins now would be a good time. You can unhook the Hazards button and Passenger airbag light at this time but I chose to just keep it connected as I can access the face panel screws with this piece loose. Not pictured: Many Fusions have a plastic strap connected to the bottom of the box which goes down above the gas pedal and is bolted down. I removed this from the previous time I disassembled the dash. To get to the other end of it you need to remove the panel below the steering wheel to give you some slack to get the box out and be able to access the bolts on the console. 4. Next we need to remove the center console piece with the cup holders and cut out for the shifter. To do this, pull the parking brake and then open the arm rest. Use a flat head screw driver to pry it upwards. I always wrap the tip of the screw driver with a couple pieces of electrical tape to give it some padding and avoid scratches or cracks from sharp edges. Keep carefully pulling up from back to the front and it should also pop the chrome ring from around the shifter out of place. If your car has the lighting kit, disconnect the wiring from underneath the cup holders. At this point I took these pieces in the house and scrubbed them up good in the kitchen sink with a mild detergent. I bought the car pre-owned and there were some smudges I wanted to get off. 5. Once that has been removed and put aside in a safe location it's time to remove the coin tray at the front of the console. Just wiggle it and pull up and towards you and it should come out without much effort as there are no screws holding it into place. Once you have the coin tray loose, disconnect the power cable for the aux power jack and set it aside. (Note this pic is actually from after the install, I didn't take one of this part before but wanted to show what it looks like). 6. This is what it looks like with the coin tray removed. 7. Back up at the top of the console, remove the two bolts that hold the face panel (I don't know a better name to call it) in place. The bolts were hidden behind the lip of the top console storage box. Pull the face panel towards you from the top to bottom. There are 6 clips (3 on each side) that will pop loose. Be careful as the stereo, HVAC and other button controller boxes are actually attached to the back of the face panel and not to the inside of the dash like every other car I've ripped apart a month after buying it. You will need to remove 4 wiring harnesses (maybe more or less if the car has different options) from the back of several control units on the back of the face panel. They're pretty easy, press the tab and pull away, you could mark them if you like but the only two that look the same are color coded so I didn't bother. The CD player unit will remain bolted into the dash. 8. Next remove the 4 bolts that hold the CD player unit in place and remove it by pulling it out towards you. Unhook the wiring harness and remove it from the car. 9. Here's what the open dash cavity looks like with the face panel and CD player removed. Here you'll see multiple wiring harnesses from the vehicle as well as my RCA cables and amplifier remote turn on wire that I ran previously. These can be run down the drivers side of the car underneath the plastic trim panels in the door openings. 10. Remove The HVAC and other control boxes from the stock face panel (left) and re-install them on your aftermarket face panel (right). I left the factory stereo controller box attached for now and will probably just store it until many years from now when I'm ready to sell the car and want to put it back to stock. Anyway, the controller boxes were attached with star-screws, but a small flat head screw driver worked fine for me as I was too lazy to go grab the star drivers. The bottom control box with traction control and lighting buttons just popped out with some tabs and had no screws. To Be Continued...

I was wondering if anyone has seen/purchased an aftermarket induction/intake tube? (I.E. aluminum etc...)