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I just installed a 2400 watt amp and a 1200 watt 6 channel amp in my 2011 fusion SE. I read somewhere that some of these newer ford cars have a (smart charging) where the car will sense load and demand more or less from the alternator depending on what it says it needs. And using aftermarket amps connected directly to the battery will adversely affect charging. How do I know if my car has this. I don't see any shunts or anything on my visible power wires to from battery/alternator. I'm worried if I turn my stereo up I might hurt something on this car. Thanks in advance on any input or help any of you throw my way.

After spending a considerable amount of time researching on how I wanted to upgrade my system, I thought to post my results. I first replaced my rear door speakers with Infinity 5x7, and front doors with JBL component speakers. They are 6x8, I should also add both sets are rated at 2 ohm. I will later post some pictures on how the front ones went as far as cross over and tweeters. Replacing subs is a whole different animal. I didn't want to cut the deck and putting a box in the trunk was not an option. I wanted to utilize the trunk space when I travel. I managed to find a post where somebody had taken the leap to use 6x9 subs made by CDT. He had mounted them under the deck, this method works. Matter of fact it's the only way it will work without cutting the deck. I used the factory tabs and screws. The hardest part is mounting. With both back seats down, climb in and lay on your back, get comfortable, you gonna be there for awhile. I did this after I had already mounted the amp which is on the back of the passenger side back seat. Looking back it would have been a little more comfortable to mount speakers first. To get the most out of the amp, I ran the speakers parallel down to a 2 ohm load. The white plug to the left of the brake pedal about 8 inches up works great. I wasn't gonna be able to knock out as others recommended, due to a module behind it in the engine bay. This meant even if i got it out, there was no way I could get it back in because it has to go back in through the engine bay. So I drilled a small hole as a guide (through the white plastic plug), then a larger one for the power wire. I did this using a cordless drill, not hard at all to get too. The door sills are a pain. I used gloves that had gripping and pulled up. The pillar between front and back door stayed in place, and I used a coat hanger to get it through. This same coat hanger was also used to pull up the power wire from behind the module in the engine bay. The amp is a Kicker 250.1 mono, the RCA inputs can be used as HI or LOW input. ( I used the HI using the connectors from Crutchfield to plug in the speaker outs). The gain is turned all the way down and I'm not using bass boost. While the bass is not earth shattering it's a major improvement to the factory system. I listen mostly to heavy metal to classic rock so hard hitting tight bass drums is what I was looking for. If more bass is needed these 6x9 subs will not be the ticket. 6 1/2 subs will not be able to move enough air and if you're gonna go bigger you might as well get atleast a 10 inch and be done with it. Note: with this setup is the first time I ever used the "COMPRESSOR ON". The amp pushes alot of power for these speaker and CD's are burned to produce the loudest volume, so peaks in the bass might make the speakers "pop".