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I have tried to look this up on many forums, but my question does not seem to have been answered. Let me lay out the situation: I bought my 2013 Ford Fusion in January with 21k miles on it. Less than a month in to owning it, I started getting a message on my radio screen after shutting the car off stating "Battery Saver. Start Engine or Turn Ignition Off." The radio would not stay on for the usual ~10 min or so after turning the ignition off. I am assuming this is because the car was detecting that the battery voltage was low. Finally, after leaving the car in a garage for 2-3 days, it was completely dead when trying to start it. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the charging system was fine but the battery had a bad cell. The battery was replaced and the problem was fixed, or so I thought. I have not had any issues with this since then, so for about 10 months. However, I left the car in the garage for 2 days this past weekend, and when I went to start it on Sunday it was completely dead. It would not crank at all. I put a charger on the battery, started it up, let it run for about 15 minutes, and put a tester on the battery. It was holding good voltage so I assumed the charging system was working. The car started fine the next morning. I drove 60 miles to work, and when I shut the car off, I got the same "battery saver" message. I have been getting it every time I've shut the car off this week, and I drive 60 miles each way to and from work. Also, I noticed that if you shut the car off, take the key out, put the key back in, two other similar messages show up. One on the dash screen next to the speedometer that reads "Turn power off to save battery" and another on the radio screen that reads "low battery. Audio off." I've seen some people refer to the temperature playing a factor. It is interesting that the first time it happened was in January, and now it is November and it is in the 20's overnight. Also, I have seen some people discussing leaving accessories hooked up. I have been leaving my car phone charger plugged in constantly, but if I am not mistaken the port cuts the power supply after the car has been off for a certain amount of time. I assume this because when I try to plug my phone in prior to starting my car in the morning, it does not start to charge until the car is turned on. I am just very confused to if it is my battery, my alternator, or something else (i.e. sensor, etc.). I can't believe that my battery has gone bad after only 10 months. But it's also hard to believe that it is the alternator because the dealership said it was fine and the only time I seem to ever have issues starting the car is after a couple days of sitting. I am so confused. The biggest difference I am seeing between my issue and everyone else's I read online is that they are only driving short distances. I drive 60 miles twice a day and am still seeing the message immediately after. Please help shed some light on this issue.

I have a Ford Fusion SE, not sure what engine size. I recently had to switch the battery out and i had a VP-26R. I swapped it for a group size 35. I’m worried this battery isn’t meant for this vehicle even though other sites show it as compatible. Last thing i need is for my beautiful ford to incinerate itself or explode around my other beautiful fords. Any help?

Last month I picked up a ‘14 Fusion Energi Titanium with 120k. Really enjoying it so far but I need some insight around fuel economy. I’ve always had trucks so I’m new to the hybrid stuff. With EV mode off, I’m only getting 32-34 avg mpg (combined city & hwy) instead of the 44/41mpg estimates. I understand estimates vary but we’re talking 10 mpg lower. Does this seem low or normal for being a hybrid? It’s 6 years old with 120k so is there any sort of tune-up, maintenance, computer update, etc that I should look into? Secondly, the EV battery seems to be, well, useless. I plugged it in a couple times and the EV mode lasted idk like 6 or 7 miles from a full charge. I see Ford guarantees the battery up to 100k so does that mean my battery is now basically useless since I have 120k on the car? Is there anything I can do besides replacing the battery altogether? Am I getting lower fuel economy in hybrid mode cuz the battery may be toast? Thanks guys.

Hi Forum, Brand new to the forum, from sunny San Diego. I hope someone can reply to this post so I know how prevalent my problem is. I bought a 2015 Fusion Energi late November, 2018. I absolutely love this car. Unfortunately, 11 days ago (after reaching 60K miles and owning for 16 months) the full charge (2.5 hrs @ 240V) suddenly dropped dramatically. Every full charge until 11 days ago resulted in between 21-25 miles. Eleven days ago, a full charge resulted in exactly thirteen miles. Since that day, it has never varied at all. 13 miles. Any ideas? I thank you for feedback or ideas. By the way, today I took it, under warranty to the dealer where i bought it and they TOTALLY punted. Discouraging. The CYA explanation included things like air temperature and tire pressure. Also words to the effect of "these things sometimes can happen". They said the battery system was diagnosed and is perfect. HELP!!!

Hello all! I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL 3.0 AWD and I am just over three months with a slow start issue that is driving me crazy. The car was serviced in June/19 and had all of its fuel injectors replaced. It was experiencing both idle and normal driving ignition failures because one of the injectors was “dripping” fuel. The other injectors were also experiencing a small leak in the middle of the part. The important thing is that all misfires were resolved with this maintenance. However, shortly after that, the slow start issue began. The first start of the day occurs without any problem. Usually the car stays stationary for at least 12 hours overnight: https://youtu.be/FpNBqUAWUNg Let's say the car runs for a few kilometers and engine reaches normal operating temperature: if it is stopped and started immediately afterwards, it also starts without problems. But if it stays stationary for at least 40 minutes, the next start will be a slow one: https://youtu.be/Sa7Vjx0Xkng (<= here the car was driven for four kilometers and then stood stationary for an hour and fifty minutes) This problem can be repeated several times a day, as long as the car remains stationary for at least 40 minutes. Ambient temperature does not influence the result, the problem has already occurred under an ambient temperature range of 15 to 35 ° C (59 to 95 ° F): https://youtu.be/6F05L2Iw_Pc (<= here the car was driven for twenty-two kilometers and then stood stationary for five and a half hours) PCM has only one DTC: P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2). I believe this error could be a consequence and not the cause of the issue… Last month the car battery died, it had less than two years of use. Its brand is a recognizably good quality brand here in Brazil, so I believe it died from excessive wear during the many slow engine starts. So, right now the car is in a second shop because the first one (which replaced the fuel injectors) could not diagnose the problem. The guys of current shop said they measured the pressure of the fuel pump and that it is reaching 4 bar even during the slow start. So we are running out of ideas… I apologize for the Portuguese audio in the videos, the important is how the engine sounds. Any help or tip would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Bought used 2015 Ford Fusion Energi on April 24th, 2018. Drove home then 3 days later overheated. Bought from used car dealer, but they farmed it out to a Ford Dealership for evaluation. Brought it back 3 or 4 times, but overall the Dealership has had the car way more than I have. They cannot find the problem and want to "break down" the engine at my cost. The used car dealer is refusing to pay even though I have a limited 1000 mile warranty from them. Even though I had less than 36000 miles on it, the warranty was over 36 months from date of original purchase, therefore Ford is not willing to do anything. The warning light says " motor coolant over temperature" and the overheating symbol comes on. If you look at the temperature gauge, it reads normal. Anyone else have a similar experience?

Good Afternoon, I have a 2011 Ford Fusion SE with the 2.5L 4 Cylinder engine and it is FWD. I was replacing the battery on this vehicle today, and the postive battery terminal has multiple leads attached to a "block" See attachment... I have called Ford, and in order to replace this one component, I have to purchase a whole harness, which I do not need. Does anybody know if this block is special, meaning it reduces current or voltage to some of the leads that are attached to it, or can I just replace this with a marine battery terminal where all of the leads are connected to the same post? We bought this vehicle new from the dealer so this is an OEM component. Thanks in advance!

After 2+ weeks of no driving my 2017 Fusion Platinum is as dead as a door-nail. This has happened twice. The car is 18 months with 10K miles. Ideas?

My 2015 Fusion Energi Titanium had been sitting unused in our garage for a little over 3 weeks. My son took it out for its first drive in awhile to go see a friend (about 4 miles away). Car starts and drives without issue. A few hours later it starts and displays the following errors (as seen here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFtYPtJRxwC23BHB8? Steering Assist Fault — Service Required Hill Start Assist Not Available Service AdvanceTrac Pre-Collision Assist Not Available I know that methods for clearing codes has been discussed for these errors are easy enough to find online. I successfully disconnected the battery cables which removed the codes and was able to drive the car normally. I took the car to the local Ford dealership this morning and described situation. Since 4 errors appeared, service rep thought first place to start is battery. Test showed that battery was good, but that a recharge was recommended. Perhaps the battery was recharging during the 3 mile drive to the dealership and that is why it showed as "Good". This raises battery questions for me: Since the car had been sitting for 3 weeks, isn’t it more likely that the battery-causing-modules-to-create-errors scenario would have occurred when the car was started the first time (when my son left the house) as opposed to the second time it was started (4 hours later) when he was trying to come home? If the battery is the issue (even though it passed test?), isn’t it more likely that it would fail to start the car altogether? I assume this b/c it seems logical that turning on the engine/hybrid motor takes more power than powering the modules. So, now my question is “What do I do now?” My wife and teenage son frequently drive this car. I don’t want them to be in a scenario where the power steering goes out in traffic. I assume that if there is a power steering issue it will throw the error again. Can a problem with one module cause errors to display on 3 others? Dealer service said that only suggestion at this point is to do an overnight “drain test” to see if battery is losing power. My friend offered to do (what I assume is the same kind of test) a test for parasitic loss this weekend. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The battery on my Ford Fusion Hybrid died... the small one.... and I replaced it. I expected the radio and clock to be gone but now I start it and it runs a bit and dies. A message tells me to stop the car safely now. Has this happened to anyone else?

My 2013 Fusion is having intermittent electrical issues. For no reason it won’t start at times despite no lights left on or doors left open. I’ve had the battery and charging system tested and it is fine. I jump it and then it is good to go with no issues. It happened this morning and then the fuel gauge showed empty. After driving for 5 minutes the gauge went up to 1/4 full and the gas light went off. Recently the wipers have also started “twitching” when driving when the wipers are not even turned on. I seem to have some kind of electrical poltergeist! Anyone else experience this or have any suggestions? Thanks in advanced.

2017 Fusion – Stuck In Park And/or Buzz Noise From Gearshift Module (GSM) – Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0915 – Built On or Before 9-Aug-2016 Some 2017 Fusion vehicles built on or before 9-Aug-2016 may exhibit DTC P0915 with vehicle stuck in park and/or buzz noise from rotary dial Gearshift Module (GSM). Address any additional DTCs first. DTC P0915 sets when battery voltage is low at start up. The root cause of the low battery condition must be identified and corrected. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-01. Reprogram the GSM using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 103.01 or higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet while module programming to obtain the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. Remove and reinstall fuse #13 from Body Control Module (BCM) to reset the GSM after programming. Clear GSM DTC’s. Module Reprogramming & Initialization Software necessary to program electronic modules to the latest calibration level, perform module initialization (PATS), and set Programmable Parameters on Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. Ford Module Programming (FMP) is a software application that allows subscribers to program electronic modules on Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. It can be used for: Reprogramming emission-related (OBDII) modules on some vehicles manufactured in 1995 and all vehicles manufactured from 1996 to the present Reprogramming or reconfiguring non-emission-related modules on many vehicles (UBP and MS-CAN not supported) In addition, module initialization (PATS) functions such as Keycode Erase/Reprogram and PCM Parameter Reset can be done using this application. J2534 Device using Ford Module Programming (FMP) can Reprogram and Configure most Modules. Latest Calibration Information Module Build Data (As-Built) Use VIN to obtain As-Built data www.motorcraftservice.com

On a 2014 Fusion Energi Is it possible to charge the high-voltage Energi (7.6 kWh Lithium-ion) battery from excess electrical energy generated by the gas-powered engine and/or regen braking system when in hybrid power mode? The left-side multi-function display seems to indicate that more power is going into the battery while in hybrid mode, but the EV battery level never seems to increase. Or is there a separate EV mode battery from the hybrid mode battery? Anyone know the details on how the hybrid charging works and whether it is charging the same battery used in EV mode? Thanks.

Hi all, Brand new to this forum so please bare with me. I drive a 2010 Ford Fusion SE 4cyl./2.5L. About two weeks ago now, I was running some errands when suddenly the dash lights, A/C, and RPM's began fluctuating. I was by a Pep Boys so i thought I'd stop by to check my battery and alternator. After about an hour they told me both the alternator and battery had passed the tests. I then went to my mechanic who told me the alternator was showing some signs of needing to be replaced, so I had it replaced. Fast forward to today and I am still having the same issues, limiting myself to only drive during the day as the headlights fluctuate too much to be driving at night. My last option before taking it to Ford would be to replace the alternator connection, but wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas as to what may be the issue. If anyone has replaced the alternator connection, how difficult was it to do yourself/any advice? Frustrated in San Diego, Dave??

I tried to start the car in the garage and the battery was totally dead. I then tried to shift to neutral so I could roll the car back so I could jump it next to my other car. I could not shift it due to the battery being too dead. I connected a battery charger and charged the battery. I managed to get everything working except the car will not turn over. It sounds like it tries for a split second then stops. I left the charger on the car overnight, in the morning the car was making clicking sounds, some lights were part way on, and the battery was only partially charged. (with the charger still connected. I believe it turns off when full charged). There was no indication anything was going wrong ahead of time. Does anyone have any ideas on what the cause might be?? Thanks, DK

Ok, been a while and this needs some background. I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient! This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord). Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car. Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts. Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A) So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power". Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA. With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine. My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display. WHEWWW! Several requests: Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)? Has anyone experienced this themselves? Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it? I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it. Thank you everyone for your patience. Grumps

My 2010 has 66K miles on it. Last night I used the key fob to unlock the door to drive home from work like I always do. It was 47 degrees out with some light rain. I got in the car and closed the door. The instrument panel was still illuminated when I turned the key to start the engine (normal). There was no starter activity as the car immediately had a complete electrical power outage. The instrument panel went dark. Nothing I did had any effect. No interior lights whatsoever came on when I opened the door. I popped the hood and jiggled the battery cable connections since I didn't see any corrosion and I didn't see what else I could do. I opened the driver door and was thrilled to have the interior lighting back. I turned the key and the engine started right up like it always does. There were not any warnings or fault indications on the instrument panel. Loose battery cable perhaps? The problem with that theory is that all of my radio settings remained intact. I later tightened the battery cable on the negative terminal since I needed to know that I did something to prevent a reoccurrence. What could have caused the total electrical outage?

Hi, I'm experienced at installing new car stereo's but I'm a little bit nervous about installing one in my Hybrid because I don't want to mess up the way the high voltage battery system works. In looking at my car there is a low voltage (12v) battery in my trunk and since I don't have a regular battery under the hood, I guessed that this is the regular battery. In looking at the manual on how to replace the battery, sure enough I had it right. Since the battery is in the trunk it seems like it would be very easy to run power off of it to my amp and my sub. I would also use AudioControler LC2i to convert the back speakers out puts into pre-sub outs. I would use that sound to run one set of RCA's to my sub amp and one to an amp that would go to the original speakers. I would also have plans in the near future to replace the back speakers with something that can handle a little more power. Does anyone see a problem with any of this? Am I missing something about it being a hybrid that I should know before I start messing with stuff?

Does anyone know if you can charge the EV battery (not the 12v) with a solar charger so everytime you get in it, it is charged and ready to give you less engine run time? I know that the engine needs to warm up but if I'm in a warm location and the engine is already warm with battery "dead" then I have to drive to charge it. My question then points to same thing as last sentence except then it would be charged and ready to go. Has anyone done this or tried too? And has anyone figured out how to change the charge point o the car? What I mean by this (no idea what to call it) is it always goes to the 50% mark when driving on cruise control (or parked position) and would like to see it go to 75% so you have a tad bit more juice to play with when you come out of it. Last question. Anyone know if you can put the new 2013 battery into the 2010 so you have more drive time in EV mode? If you post, thank you for the time of answering!

I have a 2009 Ford Fusion SEL 4 cylinder and I have a parasitic draw on the battery when the key is removed. Hooking up the multimeter its around 125 - 130 milliamps after 40 minutes of the car sitting. I have removed every fuse and after removing fuse 19 under the hood I found out its on the SJB (Smart Junction Box). I have traced the problem down to the C2280a harness connector on the SJB (Smart Junction Box) under the dash. When I remove the connector for C2280a the milliamps go down to 5 milliamps and when I reconnect it, it jumps back up to 125 - 130 milliamps. Has anyone else seen this problem? Any help woud be appreciated. Chris

Just replaced the OEM battery on my 2010 SE 4 cylinder with a Diehard. It came with a vent plug and elbow connector. However, I don't see a vent tube in the engine compartment. Is it necessary to use the vent connector or can I do without it? Thanks in advance for the advice.

i let my 2010 hybrid sit for about a month without starting it... i open door al lights come on radio plays air blows... but car will not start... i tryed charging battery under hood and even tryed jump starting it...no luck... does the under hood battery start the hybrids.. if not how do i get it started..... oh ya i seen i was suppose to disconect the neg side of the battery but did not.. HELP....