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  1. 2013 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 FWD My driver rear caliper seized up and I had to replace caliper, pads and rotor as a set. Prior to this issue I had very sensitive and consistent brakes. Upon replacing these items and bleeding the system with a pressure bleeder and using ABS bleed on a scan tool. (Like 8 times now…) The are still spongy and I have only half my brake pedal, unless I quickly double pump at which time I have full braking capacity. No ABS lights or related codes and there is definitely no air in the system. I have ruled out leaks and swollen/damaged brake hoses. All new pads and either replaced or resurfaced rotors as well. Thinking it is either the Master cylinder or the HCU but not sure how to narrow it down form here. Most frustrating, expensive and time consuming issue I’ve ever had on a car. UPDATE Took it for another drive and realizing that I have pedal pulsation at higher speeds with hard than normal braking and a loss of half my pedal. Checked wheel bearings and suspension nothing worn.
  2. I have a 2011 SEL and the front caliper wasn't releasing all the way. I bought a caliper, pad, and drilled n slotted router package thinking that it was a caliper problem. Installed them all and seemed to fix the problem. But they all seem to be slightly sticking. Feeling a little resistance and they are definitely getting hot. What else would be causing this?
  3. Decided to order some wheel skins for my OEM rims. I actually like OEMs but was I mulling getting high end blackout rims however I unsure.. Came across these wheel skins online and decided to give them a try first since its not sinking a ton of money into new rims and rubbers. Fits right over your OEM. Installation was fast and easy. Doesn't leave a lip like some of the others out there. Going to see how long the last and go from there.. Next improvement... I have a wrap guy going to work his magic Friday. 2016 FFH - original owner and still in love with this car...
  4. I'm doing rear pads and rotors. I've put the brakes into maintenance mode per this video, and I'm able to retract the pistons, but not fully enough for the new pads. At first I thought I had a defective caliper, but the same thing happened on the other side. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks!
  5. 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Codes C1014 & C1029 The sound you hear is the electric vacuum pump going on and off. It keeps cycling on and off. At the 10 sec mark, you can hear the click from the abs unit. Do I have a bad pump? Check valve? Vacuum Ieak? Any input appreciated Thanks eaglecleaningservices_video_1584062985550.mp4
  6. I've been having problems with my 2016 Fusion with 108,000 miles. When taking off from stop it has lower power than usual, poor mileage and worst of all when slowing down if I pump brakes 2 or 3 times and pedal feels rock hard but barely any stopping power. Once up to speed, 2500-4000 rpms, it runs great, but as rpms wind down so does the braking power. I've checked for vacuum leaks, nothing found. Brake fluid is full and brake pads are good. Changed plugs and air filter still nothing. No cel's any idea what's going here?
  7. I'm changing my rear brake pads but I didnt know about maintenance mode before taking everything off. I cant get the piston in. Can the car still be put into maintenance mode with the caliper off?? Or how can I fix this??
  8. Hey, all. I'm new to this forum and was hoping to get some help and advise. So, I had my driver side mirror stolen and found out the replacement part itself is extremely expensive. I had a cousin help me find something cheaper on ebay. I was hoping someone can tell me if this is the right part. I'm hoping it is because I just bought it. :P Anywho, it's coming in this weekend and also wanted to know if it's an easy install? Is there anything special? Any suggestions on Youtube videos for installs? Here is the link to the part I purchased: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253269071927 . As for brakes, I found this on ebay and did a search and this came up as a kit that would fit my car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Kit-PowerSport-Cross-Drilled-Brake-Rotors-Disc-and-Ceramic-Pads-Fusion-MKZ/272972176896?hash=item3f8e68de00%3Ag%3AbPMAAOSwLjRa2V4m&fits=Year%3A2017|Make%3AFord|Model%3AFusion|Submodel%3ASE|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.5L|Trim%3ASE+Sedan+4-Door|Engine%3A1.5L+1499CC+91Cu.+In.+l4+GAS+DOHC+Turbocharged . Is this a good price for brakes? Also, are brakes pretty easy to install? Quick note: I am totally green when it comes to fixing cars but can't afford to take it to a mechanic. So I need and want to learn. I have a 2017 Ford Fusion SE with Ecoboost and I believe it is a 1.5 L engine. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you.
  9. I am writing this to confirm if my suspicions are correct. Vehicle: 2007 Ford Fusion SEL I noticed my symptoms Tuesday morning on my commute to work. When driving down the road I could hear an oscillating noise coming from outside the car, I can't tell if it is front or rear. As I picked up speed the oscillating noise would pick up its pace. I did not feel any vibrations with the car, not in the wheel or pedals. Today I parked my car and put it in neutral, then jacked it up, and spun all 4 wheels by hand. I noticed that with my rear wheels I could hear the brake pads sliding across the brake rotor as the wheel spun. I think my calipers are sticking a bit, but am I correct?
  10. Hi All, I have a 2008 Fusion S with 97,380 miles on it and recently my ABS light has been coming in at startup and intermittently when I brake. This morning the brakes felt shaky and grinded a little when I pulled into my work parking lot. Mind you the front calipers were rebuilt in March and all four rotors and pads replaced. Recently my transmission cooler lines were replaced (that was expensive as all get out) and this is a brand new problem. I have an OBDII scanner and looked for codes but there are no codes in the ECU which makes me think this could possibly be mechanical. Anyone else had issues with their ABS that could provide a little insight?
  11. So about 60 days ago, I had to change the rear brakes and the RR rotor. The pads on the RR wore down to the metal without any squealer warning, and by the time I caught it the rotor was beyond turning. So I changed that rotor and all rear brakes. When I did, I noticed the RL pads were still fairly new. I assumed this was due to the Buy Here Pay Here dealership I had purchased my 2008 Fusion SE from had skimped to save money and only replaced the RL pads. I went ahead and replaced the pads on both sides so they would be even. Yesterday, I noticed a grinding similar to before so I checked, and the RR was again down to metal with no squealer warning. I checked the RL and they are practically new, very little wear. FL and FR brakes are also still good, have not had to replace them since purchase. Doing some research, I've seen a number of things it could be, from a stuck caliper to air in the brake lines to a seized parking brake. Anyone got a solid lead as to what would cause this or how to figure it out without replacing one thing at a time until it stops? That could get expensive replacing good parts until i finally get to the bad one.
  12. Ok, so I am new here and figured I would start out with a issue I have run into with my 2011 Ford Fusion SE. So I bought my 2011 about a year and a few months ago and it is by far the best car I have ever owned. it was re-inspected right after buying it and all was good. So other then finding out my back caliper was bad 3 months in no issues and honestly it wants that hard to replace. Fast forward to today ... well a month or so ago. (don't peg me on the time I don't have a lot of cash to spare and I need bill paid first and no I am not driving it atm) So I go get it inspected and everything passes except the front rotors and front brakes! Yay me! I have done front brakes before about 30 times over the years. This is the first time on my fusion so I do a couple youtube video checks and noticed the need for the torque driver so I grabbed one and was good to go. Ok so they say rotors were rusted a bit and brakes needed to be replaced, no biggie. LIARS!! Rotors were rusted solid on to the spindle so 3 hours later and a sore shoulder plus hammer and rust penetrating oil rotor one is off and replaced. Jump to the next day same this for the other side except the torque was screwed up before so add in a power drill and a metal bit later that screw is removed. Add on top 4 hours later and again said sore shoulder and penetrating oil second one is off and rotor is replaced and brakes done. I back out of friends garage a little grinding but that's normal usually disappears in like 3 minutes max. So 2 weeks later and a lot of looking on my part and that grinding is still there and it is eating into the rotor little by little. HELP!! I can only think Calipers but odd and hell that 2 working calipers stopped working. HELP!!
  13. 2010 Ford Fusion Sport 88k Miles about 2 months ago my brake all of a sudden didnt work properly, I had to push it all the way to the ground to make it stop, and it didnt stop very well. Took it to ford, and they said the rear brake caliper needed replacing , and the ABS module was shot , so they replaced with with a used one. about $750 Got the car back, and it wasnt much better , so I took it back. They said the used ABS module was leaking and it needed a replacing, so I got a new one installed. They got the new one, and was ready to give it back, but the new one failed, so they had to replace it again. They tested it and said it still wasnt right, checked the master cylinder and said that was also and issue, and had to replace that and bled it twice. It was at ford for about a week. Just got it back today and it STILL is not better. IM gonna call again in the AM about it. Does anyone know what else could be wrong? should I get a second opinion ? Are they pulling my leg here? any help or advice would be appreciated, thanks!
  14. hi. new to the forum. did a lot of searching but couldn't quite find an exact answer or topic based on my issue. the brake pedal on my 2014 Fusion SE is EXTREMELY soft when the car is cold. I barely tap it for my first stop sign at the end of the block and it brakes very hard. as I continue driving it gets better, but it is still very soft and sensitive compared with other cars I've driven. Oddly, after going through the car wash, the brake pedal feels a lot better and is stiffer, more linear to the effort required. But after a mile or so it goes back to being soft. Any one have any ideas of whats going on? Thanks!
  15. I have a 2013 Fusion Titanium 2.0T AWD. My best friend has a 2012 Fusion top model..... Specs? Another friend has a 2011 Lincoln MKZ. On arrival of my car, I noticed the brakes were weird. I still drove it, and the feeling came and went. I realized it was related to the temperature. Usually, when the brakes feel like that (would practically drop to the floor then finally feel touchy), it would mean air in the lines. I started asking my friends if they had any problems. They claimed the same exact feeling with the brakes, while loving every other aspect of the car. I am leaning more towards a vacuum problem with the car, and started asking them more questions. The pressure would build up while sitting still and pumping the brakes. We all have completely different engines in our vehicles but all experience the same problem. Why does this happen with different engines which would create different vacuums? Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a cure for this? When I let others borrow my car, this problem scares them. I would hate if someone wrecked because of a weird unexpected brake feeling in an otherwise safe car. On some hotrods with high lift cams, people will supplement their engines with a vacuum pump to still have a good brake. Would this even work on this vehicle? Don't newer vehicles' power brakes run off of a hydroboost setup from the power steering pump? What is the cure for this problem?
  16. Hey guys. I just purchased a 2014 Ford Fusion SE from a dealer a month ago with 9700 miles. The dealer put on new pads without machining the rotors and that resulted in some wicked pulsation when braking. I had the dealer cover the repairs two weeks ago. Just a few days ago, I'm starting to get crunching, grinding sounds when braking slowly, like pulling up to a stop sign or into a parking spot. It's coming from the rear tires, not sure which side. The rotors have a sharp edge on the outside smaller rim and the tire hub caps have black dust all over them. I'd like to figure this out once and for all before trying to return it as a lemon. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Stay classy fusion drivers.
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