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Showing results for tags 'cold'.
Found 11 results
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So I have a 2011 Ford Fusion SE that has been treating me well (Outside of a coolant system and power steering failure...maybe it hasn't been treating me well after all.) but now is having air conditioning issues. A few months back the air conditioning suddenly started blowing hot air but slowly worked its way back to cold air and worked fine for a few more weeks until it died completely. Interestingly, the air conditioning does work at night and early in the morning when it's not quite blazingly hot outside. I thought about buying an inexpensive can of air conditioning recharge to see if it could alleviate the problem, but even the cheap cans of those can be pricey, so I thought I'd query you guys first. The small amount of research I've done leads me to believe it could be the temperature sensor gone bad - but if that's the case would the system work at all? I assumed the sensor going bad would essentially kill the air conditioning overall. I don't believe it's the compressor since again it does work depending on the outside temperature. Any thoughts on the matter? Anything I should try myself before bringing it in for service and spending a paycheck or two on getting it fixed? Thanks guys/gals. -
I have a 2008 Fusion AWD 3.0L that has an intermittent "whine". Under moderate acceleration I occasionally get a weird humming, whine noise at around 2500-3000 rpm that increases in volume with speed until the car upshifts. It mostly happens when the car is cold and is worse when the weather is cold. I don't feel and vibrations and haven't noticed any physical issues that could account for the noise. I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what it would be, I'd like to find any possible major problems before they become major. http://s289.photobucket.com/user/nasoj007/media/20161210_130049_zpsudc0f5qc.mp4.html Edit: Added link to short video.
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duplicate
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Hey all, I have a 2011 Ford Fusion SEL, 3.0 L. The car was blowing ice-cold air one evening. I parked it, and the following morning it would only blow neutral / hot air. After taking it to 2 shops we've confirmed the AC evaporator discharge temperature sensor went out. The car is a few thousand miles over the 36,000 mile factory train warranty. Has anyone experienced a scenario like this and managed to get it repaired anyways? I'm kind of annoyed that I bought a fairly new car to avoid big hassles like this, and multiple things *transmission too* start going out right after "warranty." From what I've read, it's a 5+ hour project to get this little $20-30 part replaced because it's DEEP in the dashboard. If that's the case I suppose I'll just drive around without AC for awhile and do some research and attempt to fix it myself, though I'm no car person.
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I am spending some time in Eagle, CO (live in Texas) and on a couple of the really cold mornings my car will start but then sputters and coughs and dies. I can start it again immediately but am wondering what is going on. I have 5W oil in it. Should it have 0W in these temperatures ? Thanks for any help!
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Hey all, So last year i had an issue with my ac not working. After some digging around and posts on this forum, i noticed the pins on my resistor had melted and needed to be changed. I changed the resistor (black box with the heatsink) and the blower motor as it had gone as well. It was fine for the summer and didn't really use it for the winter (was working in Canada and did not need the ac) I have since relocated to Texas, and last week the ac would cut off and on. I would remedy this by sticking my hand under there and wiggling the cables. This seemed to do the trick till about a few days ago. My wiggle trick stopped working and so i stuck my head under there to see what has going on. I was shocked to see that the resistor pigtail/connector had totally melted. I then removed the blower motor, the resistor the cut the burned pigtail off. The blower motor seemed fine and had no issues so i reinstalled that. I ordered a new connector cable and spliced it in and then ordered a new resistor and installed that. After about an hour of work in the hot Texas sun, i got it set up and the fan turned on and seemed to be blowing air This is the second day after install and i notice it does not get that cold as it did before. i have not done any inspecting yet but it doesn't get as cold as it used to. I notice it gets colder when you hit the max a/c button, but still not to the desired temperature. When you leave it on a/c with the fan high, it doesn't really get that warm. It blows cool air. I am not sure what could be the issue. My install seems to be holding up without any issue but that is all i have looked at. Any advise is greatly appreciated. If there is any other information needed, let me know and i will provide. Thanks, Raf
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A friend of mine has a 2005 Ford Fusion that is hard starting in cold weather. If it does start, it takes a while to warm up and yesterday, it stalled when they turned the lights on. I scanned for codes today and nothing came up. They recently changed the fuel filter and air filter. It charges well (13.8 plus) and the battery holds a charge. Any ideas?
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion SEL 2.3L I4 with 65,000 miles on it. The engine makes a squeaking/chirping sound when the engine is cold. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature as indicated on the temperature gage, the noise stops. I have kept the oil changed every 5000 miles, had the fuel system serviced, and the transmission serviced. I still get the same noise. I don't see anything abnormal on the belts or pulleys but it almost sounds like a bearing is running dry. Has anybody had a similar problem and if so what fixed it? Thanks!
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From the album: 2010 Fusion Sport
© Eric Wall
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From the album: 2010 Fusion Sport
© Eric Wall
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I am interested in what you guys think on cold air intakes. This is my first car with an air intake resonator so I'm not sure what to do. Everyone knows a cold air intake gives you a few ponies, and makes the engine sound like it has some beef. The issue I'm struggling with is, is it worth removing the resonator and factory intake for a cai? From everything I am reading the resonator provides you with more low end torque, and I can attest to this being true as I removed the resonator briefly to see if there was a change in power. So my question is, is the loss of that worth the few hp you gain from the 240$ spent on a cai, or is it a wash? Am I better off just tossing in a K&N air filter and calling it a day? Any opinions are welcome, I really would like to know what you guys think on this.. even better if you have installed a cai and felt the change.
