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Hello; Thought I'd post up my first modification to my 2018 Energi SE Luxury for those who are interested in knowing how to do this. As in my intro post, I'm a DIYer with about 40 years' auto mechanics experience. I wasn't happy that my car didn't come with fog lights, but I wanted the "OE" type LED style of the '17+ lights as I feel they fit best with the look of the front end. I did some research, looked up some catalogs, and took my best guess. Since my headlamp switch had the grey wire in pin 14 of the headlamp switch according to this post: Given that, I ordering the following: LED Fog Lamp Assembly, LH: HS73-15A255-CD LED Fog Lamp Assembly, RH: HS73-15A254-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, LH: HS7Z-17B814-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, RH: HS7Z-17B814-CA Headlight Switch for Fog Lamps: DG9Z-11654-BA (SW6985) My Fusion does NOT have auto-park / adaptive cruise control sensors in the front bumper, so I ordered the: Fog Lamp Harness: HG9Z-15K867-C The chrome bezels on the front of the 17+ Fusions ARE removable, but be VERY careful when doing so - The tabs are brittle and will break off with very little force. I only lost one tab each, but you may not be so lucky. If you want them on-hand, order: Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, LH: HS7Z-15266-AB Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, RH: HS7Z-15266-AA Note that the fog lamps themselves are LED, and not serviceable. Thus, they're expensive to order new from Ford - About $190 each. I happen to find some 2nd hand ones on Ebay, but make sure you do a thorough check! There are two tabs with bolt holes on each assembly plus a locator "tab" that are broken on most of the Ebay ones - Make sure you get the ones with the tabs in-tact (not repaired). Start by removing the bumper cover. This is accomplished with a screwdriver or plastic trim removal tool, a T25 Torx socket, a 10mm socket, and a 7mm socket. Remove the upper T25 Torx screws from either side of the grille, right by the headlights: Remove the 10mm bolts (3) from the top of the bumper cover: Remove the plastic two-part clips from the radiator cover by first using a flat-head screwdriver to lift up on the inner part of the clip: Then pull the lower part out with the screwdriver or your fingers (it should easily lift out): Turn the car on "Accessory" and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to access the clip and bolts holding the inner fender cover to the bumper cover: Remove the two visible 7mm screws and the plastic clip using the same method as with the radiator cover: Peel back the inner fender cover to reveal two 8mm bolts holding the bumper cover to the fender. Remove those bolts, best accomplished with long extension and universal joint on the ratchet: Turn the wheel to the left to repeat with the passenger's side inner fender cover. Finally, remove the 10-12 7mm screws holding the bumper cover to the underside of the car: With those screws removed, the bumper cover should be loose. Pull the bumper cover away from the fenders using a plastic pry tool as not to scratch the paint. Once the cover is loose, three wire connectors must be detached. A small one on the upper driver's side of the inner cover: The main front bumper cover harness on the driver's side, just forward of the front wheel: And the active shutter harness: Here's where things went sideways. I actually didn't disconnect this harness, as it is connected at the center of the shutters and has several clips that hold it onto the lower radiator support. More on that in a minute. Set the bumper cover on something soft like a moving blanket or similar to avoid scratching it: When I compared the two bumper harnesses, I immediately knew something was wrong. The original harness (HG9Z-15K867-A) had two wires that the replacement harness didn't. The grey and white wires were missing in the new harness. Turns out, those wires are for the active shutters, along with the common ground wire that the harness uses for everything. The 2018s may be different than the 2017s in that the active shutters are perhaps powered by a different harness? Don't know. There's no mention of the active shutters on this harness in any of the Ford parts literature - Only whether or not the car has fog no lights (HG9Z-15K867-A), fog lights but NO park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-C), or both fog lights and park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-H). The -F and -L harnesses are for the Fusion Sport, and not applicable here. Regardless, I knew I was up sh*t's creek without the active shutter wires (check engine lights galore if those don't work). So I just went for it. I knocked out the blocked pinouts (shown by the yellow arrow) in the two pin locations for the active shutter wires (red arrows): I carefully cut the white and grey wire out of the original harness and inserted it into the new harness, wrapping them with friction (NOT ELECTRICAL) tape. There was a lot of carnage of the original harness. I spliced in the ground wire for the active shutters to the common ground line on the harness: And heat shrank the junction: Before re-wrapping the harness: With the wiring sorted, it was on to the fog light grilles. Remove the blank bezels from the bumper cover just by pushing from the inside of the cover outwards: Here is the blank bezel with the correct fog lamp bezel: Remove the chrome bezel from the blank CAREFULLY. I ended up breaking a tab on each, and I was being pretty careful: Place the chrome trim onto the fog lamp bezel: To mount the fog lamps themselves, you must purchase a total of four "speed clips" with bolts, around M8 or M10 size judging by the holes in the fog lamp tabs. I had some SAE clips laying around, but you may want to go "all metric". Mount the speed clips to the fog lamps themselves, and place the fog lights into the bumper cover BEFORE you re-mount the bezels. It works much easier this way. Use the locator tab on each of the assemblies and place the speed clips bolts on from the rear, through the bumper cover, into the speed clips on each side of the fog lamp assembly. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good picture of this process. Place the bezels back into the bumper cover, and the fog lamps will fit through and slightly protrude from the bezels. Remount the bumper cover, starting the three 10mm bolts (but do not tighten!) and T25 Torx bolts to hold the cover. Then, using the locator "christmas tree" style clips to hold the cover to the fenders, start the 8mm bolts on either side of the locator clips. Tighten ONLY after every bolt is started, being sure to line up the fenders and bumper covers properly. Replace the 7mm bolts on the underside of the bumper cover, plastic clips for the radiator cover, and tighten the 10mm / T25 bolts when finished. Use a plastic pry tool to work the headlamp switch out of place in the interior, pulling it out of the dashboard, disconnecting it from the harness. Plug the new switch in, and push into place until all four retaining tabs "click". Hit the ignition, and test them out! Hopefully this is helpful to those who want the OE fog light upgrade to an SE that didn't come with them. Also, if anyone has information on the appropriate harness for the active shutter controls, it would help out those who try this in the future instead of my having to Frankenstein the harness! Dan

I replaced my headlights last week with some HID / LED and they absolutely sucked so I wanted to go back to stock. While the HID's were still installed the drivers high beam and drivers fog light went out. I replaced the HID / LED bulbs with the factory ones and they still don't work. I have tried checking some of fuses blind because there isn't a dedicated fuse for them so I have no idea where to start. Things i have done. The bulbs are good (tested on passenger side) Driver headlight housing is good and high beam is working (tested on passenger side plug) Confirmed power is not getting supplied to the high beam at the connection to the housing Confirmed power is not getting supplied to the fog light at the connecting driver wheel well area Please help

So since I've bought this car the interior dome light only comes on if i manually turn it on. I've checked the dome and there is only on and off position..(pretty strange considering I've had older cars with basic trim package that had them). I've tried the interior light dial and it only works to dim the dash lights and when i put it all the way up it doesn't turn the dome on. Am i missing something? Apparently the interwebs in all her vastness doesn't have any info on this and its getting frustrating. My goal is to hard wire leds to the dome but there is no door feature so it would be a waste to have to manually turn them on every time. Any info is greatly appreciated thanks.

I have a 2011 Ford Fusion & this is what I'm experiencing. I removed the little trunk rectangular dome light to replace the factory bulb with a spare LED bulb that I had so it would be brighter. The domelight did arc some while removing it from part of the bulb connector touching the metal part of my car. The LED bulb stopped working. I put the factory bulb back in & it didn't light up. The 2 map lights in the front of my car only come on when I open the door or rotate the dimmer up. They wont turn on with the black push button. The rear map lights won't come on at all. I checked the #9 15 amp fuse & it was fine. Did I blow another fuse? Not sure what the issue is or if the LED bulbs aren't compatible with my car. I trie LED bulb in the front map light fixture. No such luck with them. Do I need a load resistor?

I am installing 5 led single lights, one in each door, one in the front center cubby hole. 2014 fusion eco-boost 2.0L. where do i wire them all to so they only come on with the dash back-lighting as well as be dimmed with the rest of the dash lighting as well. ?

I just recently returned from England where their light setup is different and my car was converted to their standards. I refused to pay £400 to change it back to US spec once I left because that is outrageous. Does anyone know how to change it back or have a link for a YouTube video of how to do it? My car details are: 2010 Ford Fusion Hyrbid Currently my backup lights don't work My left brake light does not show up Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I have a 2014 Titanium and on each door is a small red LED that lights up when I lock the car, and turns off when the car is unlocked. One of these lights are out, and I don't want to go through the hassle of removing the door panel to replace that light if I don't have to. It almost seems as if it can be popped out with a screwdriver but when I tried it did not budge. Does anyone have experience with this? I can't seem to find an answer anywhere! (In this picture its the small circle on the left top of the door)

Hello, I own an automatic 2012 ford fusion base model and just had the check engine light come on at a little over 22k miles. I thumbed through the info display but no messages were present. Just want to know if it's possibly mileage or service related. If not, any word on common issues would be helpful. Thanks in advance! -TheBarnetts

The ABS light on my 2009 Fusion has been coming on intermittently but longer each time. Dealer diagnosed and replaced ABS control module, but light is still on. He now wants to replace whole computer, expensive as heck. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Car only has 44K miles.

Okay so I finally went ahead with my plans to do a dome light override modification. I've always liked getting in a car and not being blinded at night I just find it convenient. The procedure is really simple and if anyone wants to do it, the total cost for me was $6 for a switch and crimp connections and some 18 gauge wire. Pictures are self explanatory but the method is to pull of the A post cover on the passenger side and disconnect the big plug. Snip the grey/purple wire, peeling back enough tape to give you crimping room, and attach a crimp at each open end of the wire. Then you crimp two 5 foot lenghts of your new wire onto each crimp and run them up the A post and across the headliner to the map light/overhead compartment. Once that is done you can take the overhead compartment out and make your hole for your switch. I got mine at radioshack, it used a 3/4 hole and was the flushest I could find. You can install the switch anywhere you want though so don't take wire lenghts literally. I considered somewhere near the dash but didn't find anywhere I liked. Install the switch then solder on the two wire leads and then tuck in the excess before re-installing the whole unit. Then you're good to go. All lights are functional when the switch is off, ie when you turn the light on manually with its corresponding button.