Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'replace'.
Found 7 results
-
Hey guys, I Have a question about pulling a 3.5L fusion engine out from the top instead of from the bottom. I have seen a few videos on you tube that claim its possible but haven't showed how. does anyone know of a write up someone has done by pulling it from the top? also swapping a fusion engine all together, any tips of hints I should know about? I looked around the forum but really haven't seen anything about engine swaps. Thanks for any help
-
I have a 2014 Titanium and on each door is a small red LED that lights up when I lock the car, and turns off when the car is unlocked. One of these lights are out, and I don't want to go through the hassle of removing the door panel to replace that light if I don't have to. It almost seems as if it can be popped out with a screwdriver but when I tried it did not budge. Does anyone have experience with this? I can't seem to find an answer anywhere! (In this picture its the small circle on the left top of the door)
-
While shifting through gears 1st - 3rd there is no issues. When the vehicle attempts to engage the 4th gear, the engine revs up a bit, but it is not excessive revving, feels like computer rev matching. During this time, there is no slippage, no grinding, no other notable or noticeable problems. The gear simply does not engage. After a few moments (3-5 seconds) it feels as though the computer recognizes a fault, and attempts to engage the last known working gear... Which unfortunately is often 2nd gear as it seems the computer will skip 3rd gear depending on acceleration applied. This causes a jolt, but feels normal for an automatic getting dropped into a lower gear while going a high speed for that gear. After some looking around, I read somewhere that it's possible this was a problem with one of the solenoids. I was curious if anyone else has had this problem, and what they did for a fix. I broke the vehicle down where needed to get into the solenoid valve body area. All I am waiting on is to replace them, but I didn't want to make a purchase if someone else was to say "WAIT, I DID THIS AND IT WORKED". Call me a rookie, I deserve it -- but when I went to drain the transmission fluid It was nasty, and smelled terrible. Could this cause an otherwise operable solenoid to temporarily malfunction? Here is the eBay page showing the solenoids I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/132018268320?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
-
hello guys, I need to replace the pcv valve on my 2008 fusion v6 3.0l so can anybody tell where is it? and how is the procedure for replacing it?
-
well first at all I want to thanks the fast replying on my last topic, thanks really. Now I decided to change the transmission fluid by myself, don't trust either my mechanical and don't have the time for the dealer to do the work (here it takes all day long). I've been doing some research about the 6-speeds f21 transmission and have some doubts but its seem easy and I like this kind of work, the manual book says it take 7.4 quarts. My car is a fusion 2008 sel 3.0 fwd 6-speed, I read that there should be a drain plug, but, it only drains aprox. 3qt... so where's the other 4.2 qt? and how can I drain it? A friend gave me 8qt of Motorcraft Premium Automatic Transmission Fluid.
-
So I noticed an air leak in my tire which is about 10 PSI a week. First visual inspection showed no obvious problems so I refilled the tire back to 38PSI (3 PSI over the recommended pressure). But a week later my dashboard yelled at me again that I have a low pressure. So I took it to the tire shop where they found a screw and that they have to replace the whole tire since it's in the sidewall. It's going to cos me $218 with rotation and ballancing - ouch. The screw is really in the sholder and so I wonder if replacement is really necessary. Please check out the picture and let me know what you guys think as $200 is a lot of money for me, but I also don't want to negotiate my safety. I'm talking about Ford Fusion Sport 2012 with GoodYear Eagle tires.
-
Hi all, So I went about replacing the thermostat on a 2006 Ford Fusion I4. It took me awhile but I was able to get everything back together in one piece. I had the Battery disconnected during the repair. However, when I reconnected the battery and turned the car on the Orange Wrench light came on in the dash and the car would not respond to the throttle at all. I couldn't get the engine to rev past 1000 RPM. I attempted the ECU relearn procedure in the manual, by letting it idle, then putting A/C on and then driving it around the cul-de-sac however still nothing out of the throttle, It won't stall the engine but it won't rev past 1000 RPM. My hope is that some one on the thread could suggest some common things I might have accidently knocked off or disconnected in my attempt at getting the thermostat repaired. I haven't been able to get the new Error Codes via OBD II but if I can't get this figured out I'll be doing that on Tuesday. I would just note I'm assuming that there was either some connector or some process I didn't follow, or some extra secret step I need to do that I'm not aware of after replacing the Thermostat. I only disconnected one electrical cable during the repair, and I did double check that it was properly plugged back in. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, please note the wrench was not on prior to the repair work. Thanks!
